Countries, Culture, Deals, Europe

Apocalypse then… Bayeux’s oui cousin

And if you want to get away from the tapestry rabble in London then just slip away to Angers for Apocalypse then… Bayeux’s oui cousin.

The Tapestry of the Apocalypse has less of a cut-through, of course, than Bayeux but it is bigger news.

At 103 metres, the longest in the world and 30 metres further than William of Normandy’s story.

Sew 14th Century

Sword of truth: The Apocalypse Tapestry

So let’s start at the very beginning, it’s a very good place to start… with sew, a needle pulling thread.

And the ambitious Duke of Anjou, brother of the King of France, Charles V, in the 14th century.

With apologists for the duke playing that age-old trick of setting his story in history, that of St John’s last book of the Bible.

To talk about his own political times.

With, naturellement, all those characters that still fascinate us today and make up the tapestry of the lives we amplify.

Dragons, angels, demons, fortified towns, mysterious women and knights.

And, of course, this being Normandy, the English don’t get a pass.

With references to the English enemy, this being the middle of the Hundred Years’ War.

A real curtain-raiser

Doggone it: Strange goings-on

Now Bibliophiles among you and certainly those with the stomach for St John’s Apocalypse will certainly point out.

That the story is incomplete.

But it has had quite the journey, like us.

Bequeathed to Angers Cathedral, it was then transformed into covers.

And it was used to protect orange trees or curtain linings.

Prepping for the Apocalypse

Imposing: The chateau

Now our Angers amis promise us the Apocalypse interpretation route as if you were there.

Or L’Apocalypse comme si vous y étiez, which d’accord we know you know it as.

Through six rooms and seven centuries, meet the creators of the tapestry, consider the secrets of its making and message.

And go back in time to the Middle Ages.

With videos, games, sound and touch devices.

Costumes to try on and even Playmobil diaporamas (no, we’ll have to learn that too).

All the world to us

Bridging the gap: Of history

The tapestry is housed in the 14-tower medieval fortress of Château des Ducs d’Anjou (Castle of the Dukes of Anjou),

All impressive enough but even more as UNESCO has included it among the pantheon of great documents of history.

The Memory of the World Register which boasts.

The Declaration of the Rights of Man and the Citizen, the Appeal of 18 June 1940 of General de Gaulle and films of the Lumière brothers among others.

Now our Medieval forefathers and mothers didn’t have the advantage of high-speed, not their fault.

And we dare say Leonardo Da Vinci was working on it.

But we do and our go-to site Omio flag up £9 tickets from Paris.

 

 

Countries, Europe, Sport

In praise of La Dea and Bergamo’s Atalanta

For the day that’s in it and seeing they’ll be celebrating at home and in Dublin we’re happy to join in… in praise of La Dea and Bergamo’s Atalanta.

La Dea is the nickname of the Lombardian city’s football, or calcio, team.

Named for the Greek goddess of athleticism Atalanta whose face and flowing locks are incorporated on the club’s crest.

Despite their lofty benefactress Atalanta are by no means one of Italy’s powerhouses.

Ripping up the script

Forza Atalanta: In Bergamo

With them cast in the shadow of their bigger neighbour Milano.

And mistaken for giants Internazionale on account of sharing the same colours, black and blue stripes.

And another moniker which they share with Milano, gli Nerazurri (black-blues).

Only Atalanta’s strip is the result of two Bergamo teams, wearing black and white stripes and blue and white stripes, merging.

Hair today: Barber of Bergamo

Atalanta, as all but the Little Englanders who think football only exists in the Premier League recognised, won the Europa League last night in neutral Dublin.

Ripping up the script by beating Germans Bayer Leverkusen… something no team had achieved all season.

Heroes of Covid

That the Bergamaschi were underdogs against the Germans was unsurprising and it is a mantle they are long used to wearing.

But that they prevailed against the odds could well have been predicted by those who know the unsurpassed resilience of the Bergamaschi.

I visited Bergamo in the throes of Covid as a guest of Visit Bergamo, booking platform Omio and Ryanair.

Water from the gods? In Citta Alta

A mere couple of months after the virus had first entered Europe here.

And saw first hand how the citizens’ bond with their football team had kept up spirits during the crisis.

It helps too that Italian football teams, and Europe in general, don’t fleece their fans with a seat on the curve at the Atalanta ground from €13.

The Irish were here: In Citta Alta

The Bergamaschi steeled each other with the heartening slogan Mola Mia (Never Give Up) which they hung from scarves and flags from windows.

In Citta Alta and Citta Bassa, the high and low cities, during lockdown, and all In Atalanta black and blue.’

A thousand hugs

Funicular fun: Up up and away from Citta Bassa

There will then be hugs galore in Bergamo today which will go on and on and on.

Much like it was in 2016 when they set a Guinness World Record around the Venetian walls.

When 1,250 Bergamaschi lined up around the 5km perimeter of the historic monument and hugged each other one at a time.

It is a record of which they are rightly proud and the mayoral team were keen to share with me when I visited.

Although alas because of Covid restrictions I was unable to reciprocate.

While we did promise when next we met we would.

My mate Matteo

Stars in stripes: Atalanta support

I save an extra big hug, of course, for the new amico I met in my days in Bergamo, my Visit Bergamo guide Matteo.

Who took me up and down hill, bringing me to the best trattorias, wine bars, museums and opera houses.

And sharing laughs and stories, many personal and family tales, along the way.

We bumped elbows and exchanged a Ciao in Hotel Excelsior San Marco 

And will get our hug, and maybe make it 1,252, around the old Venetian walls.

When we meet in praise of La Dea and Bergamo’s Atalanya.