Pilgrimage Archives - Jim Murty’s TravelTravelTravel

Waspish Wendy and my final Camino take-aways

8th October 20268th October 2026 funtime65

My wingwoman stayed away but I won’t let her off with it as today it’s all about Waspish Wendy and my final Camino take-aways.

The self-styled ‘Mrs Always Right’ mooted joining up with us, that’s Big Brother Ed and I, on our Camino Portugues.

But in the end she wished us well from a safe distance.

But not before leaving me with a stinger… ‘watch out for the wasps’!

On account of our first stop-off on our Camino Frances in 2015.

And reminded me of it as she followed my Camino Portugues travails this time.

All of which in a kinda wending Way brings me to my takeaways from my two Caminos over 11 years.

Fail to prepare, prepare to fail

Lucky for some: The first 13 — Writing on the wall: My first Camino

Less is more: And even if your provider Camino Ways do most of the heavy lifting for you, taking your luggage from stop to stop.

You will need a rucksack on your walk for waterproofs, and keep them foldaway into pouches to lighten your load.

And a spare pair of socks if yours get damp in the woods.

Water bottles, sweeties, fruit, a map (even in this digital age, and chargers), a wide-rimmed hat and first-aid kit.

And, of course your Camino passport and border document on your person alongside your mobile, wallet… and bandana.

Timing is, erm… everything

Earning my stripes: On the Via Francigena

Connections, connections, connections: And this relates more to the Via Francigena in Italy in my experience.

When I discovered the limitations of my interconnecting train to my starting point in Viterbo, 100km from Rome.

With it stopping halfway and me only finding out from a random English-speaker of a bus that leaves in the early hours.

All of which meant I had a four-hour lay-off in a one-horse town where the horse had left and did not get into Viterbo until 1am.

A Buen Camino goes a long way

Sitting down on the job: On the Camino Portugues

Hola, ola: OK, we might not all be polyglots but there’s little excuse these days not to converse in people’s own language.

If you prefer to keep it real then take your physical translation books.

While, of course, your phone will likely have a translation facility on it.

Now there’s always the capacity to get it wrong as in when The Scary One got her Yamas (cheers) and Hamas mixed up in Rhodes.

But the locals will invariably just be glad that you’ve tried.

And, of course, a Buen Camino is a welcome hug on the road.

Or a polite way of saying you’re coming through.

Tech it in your stride

I’ve grown into the part: A fellow beardie

Screen if you like: But nobody will hear you in the dark.

Only that’s not quite right as I discovered when Big Brother Ed, in the next room, rumbled me.

For effjng and blinding at my blinds that I couldn’t pull down in Padron on our penultimate day.

Eleven years has brought big digital changes.

And while I had sheets of papers with directions in my Camino package back then now it’s all on the portal.

Only you won’t need your Google Maps (famous last words).

As the yellow arrows and scallop shells posts will guide you on your way.

The world has changed too since Covid and you may have to scan menus on your phone now.

While Ryanair requires you check in on their app and use your phone at their machines for tagging your luggage.

All of which means you should leave more time at the airport.

Particularly if you’re one of those pariahs with a British passport.

We all walk the same Way

No man or woman is left behind: Now despite the bright yellow signs I defy you not to take a wrong turn somewhere.

And that’s when those who live and work along the Way come into their own.

Whether that be a driver or a woman hanging her washing out of the window.

While, of course peregrinos, or pilgrims, will always have your back, and backpack when you’re struggling.

Eleven years on and I’m right back where I was on the Camino Frances with Waspish Wendy and Rikke with a simple Buen Camino.

It will be the same now with Aussies Allan and Peter.

Big Brother Ed I have known 60 years.

And judging by what we’ve still got left in our legs a good many years to come and Caminos to walk.

Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

The longest Camino day

4th October 20266th October 2026 funtime65

Day 6 (last day): It’s when you forego the train, leaving outside your hotel window, that you really do trust in Him, on this the longest Camino day.

It is my cross to bear to carry my full backpack the full 25kms (or 6 hours), for the last leg, from Padron to Santiago de Compostella.

On the right track: But we’ll be walking

And be there in time for 4.30pm to catch the only Sunday bus to Porto for my red-eye flight back to Edinburgh the next morning.

American dad and lad Jim and Jamie are ahead of me, as they have been all week, before sunset.

But I am waiting in the Hotel Rosalía lobby on Big Brother Ed… he ain’t heady he’s my brother.

Despite spending last night, leading the belated celebrations for Aussie Allan’s 77th birthday, with his travelling companion Peter.

Pick your dish: Peter picked the Pedron peppers

At Pulperia Rial in the old centre, where I feast on the regional speciality pulpo, on a wooden plate obviously, and Rioja.

I carb up with Irish sisters Nuala and Maura at breakfast but we bemoan the lack of Brennan’s bread.

The bread of life

The cat’s whiskers: Aussie Allan and Funtime Jimmy

We will meet again on the Way and because they’re Irish the talk comes round to food.

And they inform me that to tell the difference between Catholics and Protestants you ask where they keep their toasters.

Catholics leave theirs on the workplace while Protestants put theirs in the cupboard.

Completely random but the kind of invaluable knowledge you take away from walking the Way with the world’s walkers.

All this talk of food has made me hungry.

The ways of the Way

Just a few steps to go: Santiago in the distance

We break bread again, obviously, with Aussies Allan and Peter who will probably end up in our excess luggage.

And learn too the ways of the Way when a local offers to buy half of Peter’s monster cheese and ham baguette for €3.

Or at least we think that is what is happening because at this stage lifting the piano that is my backpack is making me hallucinate.

God though has shone on us and given us a gentle wind to blow us to Santiago de Compostella.

When it’s no racing cert

And most importantly with enough time to pick up our certificate.

For completing a 100km stretch of the Camino with Camino Ways.

Although after filling out a needless form on a computer we are faced with a snaking half a mile queue for our cert.

Instead we accept that if God knows that we walked his Way then that is enough.

The front doors of the cathedral aren’t accessible either and we are told too late that we needed to go through a side entrance.

But having embraced the Pilgrims Mass when I walked the last 100 of the Camino Frances.

And ducked out of the way of the Botafumeiro incense holder which is currently out of action I am not suffering FOMO.

Leaving behind the city of brotherly love

I will, alas, miss out on spending a night in Santiago and then Porto with Big Brother Ed.

As I have a bus to catch back to Porto this afternoon and then a flight the next morning to Edinburgh.

Now being brothers I’d never tell him this so you’re sworn to secrecy.

He has, in truth, set a way, a path, for me to follow from my earliest days, and still does.

Even if sometimes he leaves me behind, he is ultimately always there for me in the end.

MEET YOU ON THE ROAD

Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

Strictly Camino Dancing

3rd October 20263rd October 2026 funtime65

Stage 5: And I’ve got a spring in my step on the penultimate leg of my Camino Portugues… hence the Strictly Camino Dancing.

Martin and Natalia are entreating us like sirens.

On the 18kms trek of our 100+ Camino Ways pilgrimage through the woods between Calais de Reis and Padrón.

En route to Santiago de Compostella.

I have been reminded from home that Britain’s favourite pastime Strictly Come Dancing starts its elimination round tonight.

And in the absence of any competition I insist on our dancing duo to award me a 10 along with my obligatory Camino passport stamp.

Getting the band back together

Anybody there? On the lookout for my billet

The band is back together again, Aussies Allan and Peter and Indiana Julie and Chicago Nancy.

Julie alighting on my Red Rocks t-shirt at our A Casa Do Lantoneiro billet in Calais de Reis.

Apartments up from the Hotel Pousada Real where we had to go to check in before being rerouted to the block up Rua Real.

You got that then… Big Brother Ed has been billeted half a mile up the road where we will wind down around ribs and wings.

Food for the soul: For my penultimate leg

Before heading back out on the Way.

Me reunited with the rucksack I had tried, with Eatrella Galicia on board, to waylay.

The Catino: And the obligatory cat picture

There are new members of our merry band of brothers and sisters today on the Way.

Irish Michelle and Maria, with whom we bla-bla-bla with, and naturally about blaa, the Waterford speciality roll.

Breaking bread at our last supper

Listen up: And I’ve bored this peregrino stiff

And because we are on a spiritual journey I make no apologies at torturing a biblical metaphor.

And we will return to our Aussie pals Allan and Peter for breaking bread at our last supper.

At our digs for the night, Hotel Rosalía in Padron.

Tomorrow, God willing, we will reach our destination Santiago de Compostella and pick up my companion Camino certificate.

The flower off Scotland: And a coffee break

To bookend my 2016 keepsake.

On track: Padron station outside my hotel room

It promises to be the longest day, 25kms and then on to Porto for a red-eye back to Edinburgh.

Now if only there was a train station near the Hotel Rosalía to save me the legwork.

MEET YOU ON THE ROAD

Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

Get outta town on the Camino… Adios Pontevedra

2nd October 20262nd October 2026 funtime65

Stage 4: And we get outta town on the Camino … Adios Pontevedra and we’re back in the country.

In truth, we’ve never really stopped walking, that’s Big Brother and me, as Pontevedra is known as the Pedestrian City.

Now because of my notorious sense of misdirection I double back on myself.

Around the big tree roundabout near our billet, the Galicia Palace, until I get on the main drag.

Shelling out

I am headed for the noted Church of the Pilgrim Virgin and its floor plan in the shape of a scallop shell in honour of the symbol of the Camino.

I bless myself with the holy water from the mollusc shaped fount.

And beseech Him for guidance for the last 60kms of our Camino Portugues from the Portuguese/Spanish border.

And I throw some on the floor for those on fire below.

They’re playing our tune: The Literary Circle in Modern Coffee outside Cafe Moderno

We break bread off the Praza da Peregrina and wrestle with barcodes to get our menu.

Before pointing out impatiently that the next table has a paper one, only to be told they are children and it’s colouring-in paper.

The only Way

Have boots, will travel: And I’m still holding up

I am now reunited with brother Ed after he had gone walkabout on our route in from O Porriño.

But I will not lose sight of him again, particularly as today’s leg is a 22km trek into Caldas de Reis.

And nor will I stop meeting new peregrinos pals and pussies, and greeting old ones.

Like American dad and lad Jim and Jamie and Aussies Alan and Peter.

It is the Camino and it is the only Way.

At a crossroads

The Way, the Truth and the Life: Of a pilgrim

Dutch Ria does her best to separate us when she flags up the beauty of the left fork in the road which some are taking.

Until an experienced peregrino asks how long extra that might take and smilingly she tells us three days.

Which would double our journey.

Who knows what the next, our last three days before we reach Santiago de Compostella.

But as the sign says God loves you.

MEET YOU ON THE ROAD

Countries, Pilgrimage

As Chivas regal and we’re drinking in the Camino

1st October 20266th October 2026 funtime65

Day 3: And the bottle tops are mounting up on Alan & Peter’s table… As Chivas regal and we’re drinking in the Camino.

As Chivas being our rural idyll billet for the night, just up the hill and off the Way.

And the Spanish name for the farmhouse’s permanent residents, the guests.

That Alan and Peter are Australian is unsurprising.

Aussie, Aussie, Aussie: The Aussies, me and Big Brother

And takes me back to Top Deck days on a repurposed double decker bus to the Oktoberfest in Munich.

When Rambo would bite the tops off the bottles when we lost the bottle opener.

We pass the late afternoon in the sun sharing war stories of this trek and others.

Hakes and hikes

Julio and Davide run an easy, informal tab, where you mount up bottle caps into a mountain and pay on departure.

I feast in the evening on two hakes, patates (chips) and green veg with Brusssel sprouts.

And the next day roll back down the hill to rejoin the Camino Portugues.

A couple of kilometres down into the village of Arcade and then back into the woods en route to Pontevedra.

Big Brother is watching

There will be more Aussies, Americans, South Americans and ten likely lassies from my hometown of Glasgow.

With whom I spend far too much time for Big Brother’s liking and he marches ahead.

Each time their own and every Camino is your own.

I form more attachments along the Way including a lucky black cat.

Out of puff: The ascent takes it out of you

And fill a second page on my Camino passport and splash on the holy water in a Wayside chapel dating back to the 1690s.

We will meet up again at the Galicia Palace in Pontevedra at the end of our 16kms stretch.

Only 70kms to go to Santiago de Compostella and, yes, we’ll…

MEET YOU ON THE ROAD

Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

Goaaaaaal… our Camino Portugues Arcade Game

30th September 20266th October 2026 funtime65

Day 2: And we’ll get there, it’s the day after the Spain game and this is our goaaaaal… our Camino Portugues Arcade Game.

The biblical deluge did arrive last night and gracias Dios it was when we were safely off the Way.

And in our billet at Hotel Azul in O Porriño in Spanish Galicia.

But anxious about our next leg, the 23km undulating and longest stretch yet, to hilltop Arcade.

A sports hack half my career and a football fan all my life I didn’t expect.

To be trudging through the puddles to find a bar for the game.

Or giving up on the mission to watch Lamine Yamal and the world champs beat Croatia 4-1.

Only there may have been an insight on how the locals view the national team in this graffito on the wall.

Now our own wee team Scotland, the last to beat Spain a whole two years ago, have found it uphill ever since.

Like today’s 12km climb on my Camino Ways odyssey.

Thankfully Hotel Azul have served us, that’s me and Big Brother Ed, the breakfast of champions.

The first supper: To set me up for the day

You see, the beauty, of course, in a longer leg on the Camino is more time to take in the beauty.

Although I could certainly do with longer legs for those steep inclines.

And the bigger distance affords more chance to spend time with fellow peregrinos.

Where’s the little donkey? At the bottom of As Chivas

Like American brother and sister Mark and Mary who bookend this stretch down from our farmhouse billet As Chivas

With Mark offering to adopt the name Joseph temporarily for this money shot coastal picture over the valley.

Mark billing me as Jesus on account of my ‘Jesus is my Home Boy’ T-shirt.

The thing is though as a James Joseph I offer to double job.

It’s a family affair

I am walking 11 years after my first Camino.

This time with my big brother, the third of the Three Wise Men, the other brother is back in England.

Caminos have always been familial affairs and Ed and I break bread with American dad and lad Jim and Jamie… well, it is St James’s Way.

Sheltering from the morning’s delayed showers in a path side cafe.

Where naturally we get another stamp for our Camino passports which will qualify us for a certificate.

When we get to the end of our 100-mile trek to Santiago di Compostella.

Peregrinos, or pilgrims, will be lucky if their walk is in gentle breeze as opposed to blistering sun or pelting rain.

Carmen and the Hunchback of Rotterdam

God is watering his garden today but we are prepared with foldaway waterproofs.

While Dutch Nonda is covered too with a poncho covering both her and her rucksack.

The Hunchback of Rotterdam Filipino Carmen calls her… she’ll cut herself one of these days, she’s so sharp.

And despite rolling her ankle on an early leg Carmen is off now at a fair lick.

We’ll see her again, God willing, like we have Mark and Mary.

That’s the Camino for you.

MEET YOU ON THE ROAD

Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

El Niño Camino the rain in Spain… but I won’t complain

29th September 20266th October 2026 funtime65

Day 1: Starts with a splash. El Niño Camino the rain in Spain… but I won’t complain.

Because I’ve said my decade of the rosary, just as Mum would do in the driveway at the start of our annual pilgrimage to Ireland.

And the predicted storms have stayed away which is just as well as we trek through the woods.

Jimmy the conkerer

The only threat from the skies is from the conkers and acorns being blown off the trees and round my head.

Our walk to the woods from Tui has been, in truth, seamless bar for a left turn (isn’t there always?).

Where a kind driver interrupts his journey.

To point us back in the right direction.

We could, of course, have trusted in our other senses.

With the skirl of the pipes a familiar sound to Scottish type people like us.

Galicians being, of course, fellow Gaels, and fond of a rendition of Amazing Grace.

For a token of appreciation for which you’ll also get a stamp for your Camino passport.

Food for thought

We picked up another earlier on, and randomly a banana.

And by now, and still early on, I have a front page filled.

From our first night billet, the local pharmacy, and the second stop, 18kms that way, in O Porriño.

We take shelter from the first droplets of rain in Tapas y Vinos to refuel.

The Way, The Truth and the Life: The Big Je has your back

And for my walking companion, Big Brother Ed, to shake his head in appreciation.

At two doorsteps of a beefy ham sandwich and two Americanos for under €12.

We are, unexpectedly, further along the way than we’d imagined… on the apron off Azur Hotel in O Porriño.

Candles in the wind and rain

I feel compelled to thank Him for keeping us dry and safe.

And say a prayer at the first church in town, it looks like there’s one on every corner.

And light a candle and pray for all the requests I’ve been given ahead of my 100 mile Camino Portugues to Santiago with CaminoWays.

The candle stand is clearly well thumbed and suggests a 20c donation.

I fluff my pockets and find a 10c but there’s no cutting corners in the House of God.

And the candle only comes on when I put in a 20c which puts the Church in profit.

And me with another sin to walk off en route to Santiago.

Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

Old the border for 720 years

28th September 2026 funtime65

And while the rest of the world has been trying to keep each other out here’s where they decided to old the border for 720 years.

We have, of course, the 1297 Treaty of Alcañicas to thank for the Portuguese-Spanish border, weas if we need to tell you that.

But we reckoned that milestone needed marking.

Which is why you see me stood here on the Valença International Bridge or Friendship Bridge.

Taking my first steps from Portuguese Valença over to Spanish Tui on my Portugués Camino.

Which conveniently for us, that’ll be me and Big Brother Ed, is 116kms to Santiago de Compostella.

Long enough to qualify for another Camino passport to go with my Frances Way one from 11 years ago.

A day in Portugal’s fortress town

Now, seeing we’ll only be in Portugal overnight we’d best have a look around.

Where we find a horde of Spaniards from just over the Minho trawling along Rua de Mousinho de Albuquerque for cheaper linen.

For all that the two countries have been at peace for 620 years.

There is a visible reminder that the Portuguese protect themselves ably.

And visitors will want to scale the Valença Fortress for the best views to Galicia.

While we’re advised that O Faz Figuras is best for traditional Minho dishes like bacalhau cod.

CaminoWays do the heavy lifting

We’re staying at the A Torre Do Xudes hotel in Tui.

Our first billet on our CaminoWays odyssey to Santiago de Compostella.

Where the bones of St James the Greater are venerated in the Cathedral.

Which is why pilgrims, or peregrinos, have been walking there for hundreds of years from all over Europe.

To earn grace and penitence and get time off Purgatory, the holding bay for Heaven.

Now back then in the Middle Ages, Michael O’Leary was just a twinkle in a great-great-great-great-great-great grandfather’s eye.

So you would have to leave from your own doorstep and walk across land and sea to get here.

While I saved myself the guts of a few weeks extra walking by taking a two-hour 50 minutes Ryanair flight from Edinburgh to Porto.

And while many peregrinos still carry their full backpacks and stay in hostels, or albergued, along the way.

CaminoWays do the heavy lifting for you, taxiing you to your first stop in TUI from Porto or Santiago.

Putting you up in your hotel and transporting your luggage to your next stay, all in your package.

The Way of James

Now the Way of St James will always mean something unique to everyone who travels it.

And for this James it is following in the footsteps of James the Elder.

James Gerard Murty, who would have been 100 but is gone 18 years now.

And although he will have found his way to Heaven, with only limited time in the Purgatory holding bay.

He continues to guide my path, and no doubt will lead me back on track when I undoubtedly go off course this week.

So come this Way with us and…

MEET YOU ON THE ROAD

America, Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

Passport for Pocohontas on the John Smith Trail

21st September 202621st September 2026 funtime65

And as I train on for the Camino next week I’m leaving stamps on my passport for Pocohontas on the John Smith Trail for a next trek.

Pocohontas, as we don’t have to tell you, is twice blessed in the sacred Rotunda in the US Capitol in Washington DC.

We’re concentrating here on the stone relief sculpture above the doorway.

Titled The Preservation of Captain Smith by Pocahontas by Antonio Capellano.

Captain Smith and Pocohontas which you’ll know from your Disney are inextricably linked.

At home with Pocahontas

As they are on the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail.

The 3,000-mile trek through five states and the District of Colombia.

For Pocohontas fans Machicomoco State Park along the York river and Gloucester County Visitor Center are your touch points.

With Werowocomoco, where Pocohontas grew up, alas closed off for just now from us.

While the The National Park Service works through with Virginia’s First Nations how to shape the site.

With Werowocomoco holding truths about Native American societies in the Chesapeake stretching back thousands of years.

A tale of two Johns

The John Smith Trail is the authentic way through pre-American history.

In much the same way as the 216-mile John Muir Trail is in California.

You may be more familiar with the Father of the National Parks’ 134-mile coast to coast trek in his native Scotland.

Big hand: For John Muir in his native Dunbar

Now whichever trek you set out on remember to take your passport with you.

Yes, of course, that document that will let you through the security gate but also trail passports.

Where you collect stamps as a memento of your odyssey.

Stamp your authority

I’ll be on my second Camino passport but a Portuguese Way one to go with my Camino Frances.

While I also have a Via Francigena from my journeys in Italy.

All of which reminds me that I have to update my Big passport for next year and get my Irish one too, like the Daughterie.

The Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail has 43 unique stamps,

And like all trails the first journey always has a first step.

Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

Portustroll in shoulder-season

19th August 2026 funtime65

It’s a step change all right putting off a summer getaway for a Portustroll in shoulder-season.

But shoulder season, or autumn travel away from the burning summer heat, is this year’s travel trend.

And because we’re always ahead of the curve we’re lacing up our walking boots next month on the Portuguese Way for our Camino.

But more of that later we’ve got to get a shift on here to tell you of the walks you can enjoy this shoulder season.

The shoulder season in Portugal, the geographical shoulder of Europe.

Shoulder to shoulder with its Iberian neighbour Spain.

Bordering on the meticulous

Water way to go: Take in the surroundings

The charms of Alcoutim: The longest continuous border in Europe, dating back to 1297, gives the gentle stroller the chance to straddle two ancient nations.

You’ll start and finish your 4.6km walk in the Praça da República (Square of Republic).

The trail takes walkers through the border city of Alcoutim.

And reveals iconic landmarks, the Castle of Alcoutim, the ruins of the Old Castle, the Praia Fluvial, and the River Guadiana landscapes.

There is also the chance to cross over to the other side of the river and visit the Spanish town of Sanlúcar del Guadiana.

Stroll to the beach

Rota Vicentina Circular routes Amado (Rated: Moderate): OK, you start and finish at the Amado beach on this moderate 7.75km walk but you get the picture.

And you get to wash your feet in the Atlantic swell at the end on the beach which incidentally is Portuguese for beloved.

This coastal trail offers a blend of wildlife, rare flora and fascinating geology.

Hikers can spot native birds and wildlife, admire globally rare cliff-top plants, and explore landscapes shaped over 300 million years ago.

Hot foot in the Algarve

Rota Vicentina Historical Way Carrapateira – Vila do Bispo: And one for those British sitcom friends and you might not BELIEVE it.

But our Portuguese pals call this route 21.4km moderate.

You’ll start your journey at Largo do Comércio, Carrapateira and end, and say a prayer, next to the main church in Vila do Bispo

And, of course, the Algarve will show many of its dramatic landscapes, where rugged mountains meet the coast.

Along the way, hikers can spot native flora, protected temporary ponds.

And a variety of wildlife, including rare birdlife and the endemic Triops vicentinus, an indigenous prehistoric tadpole shrimp.

All of which conjures up all that lovely seafood to keep you going on your travels.

Walk this way

Section 7 of the Via Algarviana Salir–Alte: And because we like a challenge, this, the seventh section of the Via Algarviana, is calling us.

You’ll start your 16.4km odyssey in the square next to the Mother Church of Salir.

And finish in the Fontes de Alte Natural Springs.

Now the terrain is rural paths, traditional villages, and farmland that reflect the region’s agricultural heritage.

Along the way, walkers can admire old stone walls, water wheels.

And the impressive Rocha da Pena Protected Landscape, renowned for its rich biodiversity and local legends.

The route continues through the picturesque village of Benafim.

Before following the peaceful Ribeira de Alte to the scenic Fontes Grande and Pequena, ending in the charming village of Alte.

Walking season

On the road again: With your fellow walkers

Alternatively, visitors can visit the Algarve Walking Season website to find out about upcoming walking events.

And for a comprehensive guide to walking opportunities throughout the year in the Algarve.

Visitors can easily view the calendar of all walking festivals in the region, including their locations and key features.

It also provides regular updates on these festivals and walking-related news in the area.