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Countries, Europe, Music

Party island Croatia has 1244

23rd June 202523rd June 2025 funtime65

Each has their claim to be the summer rave destination but party island Croatia has 1244.

Which, full disclosure here, we’ve just just four ticked off.

Velvet touch

So which to choose next… well, if you want to add Krk to your list you better be quick.

Not because the actual island is going anywhere.

But because the Velvet Festival on Medane Beach in Punat from June 25-29 is wrapping up.

A daily boat party, it boasts four stages and 50+ acts.

Hop to it

And what says rave more than secret parties and the Adriatic notches it up a level with island getaways.

The Garden Resort welcomes back over 170 acts for the 10th anniversary of Love International from Tisno from July 9-15.

From boat parties to secret island sets and sunrise dance floors, Love International raises the bar.

Split for the islands

While ULTRA Europe’s 11th edition bounces from stadiums to sea caves.

The party starts in Split and hops across Croatia’s glitziest islands making it into Adriatic-fuelled odyssey.

Maybe you prefer a more laid-back trippy feel featuring say beach yoga.

It’s all about Ní

So if you prefer your summers slow and your sunsets uninterrupted then the TǑC Festival from July 18-19 then it’s all about Ní.

They promised an olive groves setting and workshops.

But also tradition, sustainability and blissful idleness is to the fore.

Of course, Croatia melds its mainland and islands and Croatians are born hopping.

Dubrovnik meets Love Island

Dubrovnik is the Pearl of the Adriatic.

And the 11th-century time capsule fortress and Game of Thrones location turns into a dazzling open-air theatre for the Midsummer Scene Festival.

For English-language productions on Fort Lovrjenac until July 6.

This year, Richard Sheridan’s biting comedy The School for Scandal echoes a Love Island plot.

But with powdered wigs, vouching that scandalous summer begins here.

So even on the mainland the sea is never far away.

So if you’re looking for a party island Croatia has 1244.

Africa, Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

To be a pilgrim on World Mission Sunday

20th October 202420th October 2024 funtime65

Thoughts turn back today to five years ago, and last week, in the Balkans, on what it is to be a pilgrim on World Mission Sunday.

I bookended Croatian Marian enclave Medjugorge in Bosnia & Herzegovina with Dubrovnik in Hrvatska (Croatia).

And I was reminded of the delicate balance that comes with the movement of peoples and their perspectives and accommodating each others’ differences.

And improving the lot of people who live here, often from the rubble of war and the accompanying poverty.

The real Meals

Scottish brothers Magnus and Fergus MacFarlane-Barrow effected the change that was needed in Medjugorje after family visits.

With their Mary’s Meals initiative which ensured that every child got a square meal to sharpen their minds for school.

Which they then extended around the world to the international project we see today.

Mission from God

Of course, the need never goes away and we are constantly learning of war-torn corners of the world that have been overlooked.

Such as the civil war raging in north-west Cameroon which was highlighted at my own place of worship on today’s Sabbath.

Today’s Missions face an increasingly greater challenge in a competitive charity landscape for our attentions.

Than in our forebears’ time when among the more traditional theologic countries such as Ireland missionaries were drawn widely from their number.

With one particular family, my mum’s uncle and aunt giving all six of their children to the Missions.

Oh Brother

With one Nigerian community repaying their faith by crowning our Father Donald a chief.

The Fransiscans, Father Donald’s order, persist valiantly in providing the tools, support and know-how to help the impoverished help themselves.

I hear first-hand of the four octogenarian Brothers living, working and praying in the Fransiscan monastery in Dubrovnik.

And administering medicines for the body as well as the soul with its apothecary, dating back to 1317, the third oldest in the world.

Voluntourism

It is this commitment of time that separates mission work from the growing trend for voluntourism.

All of which instant gratification charidee assuages Western World consciousness.

But which can come at a cost to local employment when Westerners can be exploited to work for free.

G force

Site of Jesus’s baptism: On the River Jordan

There is another way still, sustainable tourism where ethical travel providers bring visitors to local tradespeople.

And put profits into their industries as I saw with G Adventures out in Jordan.

Our own family line to the Fransiscans may have been paused since we lost our Father Donald.

Although there may still be hope for me with my ever-growing beard, a Franciscan monk’s trademark.

That though is the easy bit, there is much more involved to be a pilgrim on World Mission Sunday.

Countries, Cruising, Deals, Europe, Ships

Wave goodbye and thanks Croatia and isle be back

19th October 202419th October 2024 funtime65

Mahmuti zbogom i Hvala Croatia i isle be back.

Or for those who aren’t fluent by now in Hravatska wave goodbye and thanks Croatia and isle be back.

Which, of course, in this idiosyncratic strip of a country of 1,423 islands means waving goodbye to a pancake machine.

Which is how we kickstart the contraption in the buffet at the Grand Park Hotel.

Playing to the balcony: The Grand Park Hotel, Dubrovnik

On our loveholidays and EasyJet odyssey in Dubrovnik.

It would, of course, be back on our kitchen worktop by now.

Had the Mother of all Dragons not packed the suitcase to the brim with olive oil from the islands.

A scoot around the Elaphiti Islands

We have, in truth, barely made an indentation on those 1,423 isles in our seven days here.

But we did bag three more, the Elaphiti Islands with Get Your Guide (from €60pp) on our last day.

And now with luscious Lokrum, just 700m from Old Town Dubrovnik already explored that makes four.

In all honesty, the Elaphiti Islands lacked the charm, or peacocks, of Lokrum.

And contrary to Pliny the Elder’s claims despite the origins of their name there are no deer on these Elaphiti Islands.

Although plenty of wee Croatian Old Dears, one of whom in Sipan fluttered her eyelids.

To draw Herself into buying her olive oil.

The cutting crew

We have come here on Triton which we pick up from the marina having been driven to the shore from our hotel.

Lorenzo, our dreadlocked polyglot Italian guide and Jakob, his barefooted Polish pal deckhand, get the party going.

We start with Abba and I am reminded of my starring part in Jimmy, Jimmy (A man after midnight) on the Bosphorus.

But word must have reached them and I am not asked to reprise it.

Jakob gives us a pep with plum Rakija chasers and Lorenzo tops us up with Dalmatian wine.

Choose your church

Now if you love yourself an oul’ church then the Elaphiti Islands, and Dubrovnik in general, will be right up your ulica.

With one church for every one in the audience.

Although you imagine St Jerome the Hermit wouldn’t have shared his.

And his doors on Lopud are shut when we visit.

My little flower: Herself on the islands

Our time on the islands is alas too brief, 45 minutes each, although we do get to leaf through the botanic gardens.

But hardly enough to get lost on the steep rocky steps in Sipan which houses a positively throbbing 419 residents.

To get to yet another monastery ruins and meet another moggie.

Bare truth about departure time

Now you’d think 45 minutes would be long enough for a nudist beach.

On Kolocep which boasts just 163 inhabitants and just as many cats.

But alas it is too far out to get there and back in time for departure.

With Jakob saying Triton leaves bang on time, kit or sans kit.

In search of a dense hot chocolate

Now despite everyone on the isles seemingly working in the hospitality sector not one serves la ciocolatta di calda densa.

The thick hot chocolate, sometimes found in Dubrovnik, and always in Italia.

There is enough time on our eight-hour boat trip though for Lorenzo and Jakob to wine and dine us some more.

With no shortage of fresh fish, chicken and vegetarian fare all part of the package.

While spirits and coffee are budget prices.

Negotiating the waves

Lorenzo and I parliamo Italiano as we rise to the rhythm of the waves and the Cuban dance music.

And I feel I have made a connection when I share that I loved visiting his hometown Bergamo.

That is until I over-reach and mangle my Italian greeting.

And when I shortchange him at the end when he gets the tip bucket out our prospects of being amichi fade.

And my parting ciao falls on deaf ears without even a buona notte e sogni d’oro in return.

Still, my pancake machine the next morning at breakfast loves and understands me.

So I head for home with a wave goodbye and thanks Croatia and isle be back.

And my wee pancake machine waves back.

Countries, Deals, Europe

The Mother of Dragons’ shame in Dubrovnik

18th October 202418th October 2024 funtime65

I can’t take her anywhere, or how our Game of Thrones tour (£42) turned into the Mother of Dragons’ shame in Dubrovnik.

King’s Landing as all Thronies know is where Cersei walked naked through the streets as the people shouted ‘Shame’ at her.

For sleeping with Jamie her brother.

I have introduced my own Mother of Dragons thus to our guide Edi, a thirty-something Croatian guide.

Guide to GoT

The GetYourGuide Game of Thrones tour (€40) boasts some 14 locations and Edi takes us around them all.

From the moment you enter through the Pile Gate which Edi helpfully translates as Gate Gate…

You are transported through time and CGI to Martin’s world.

Ready, Edi, Go

Edi helpfully reveals that the-then Dubrovnik mayor granted HBO free rites to his city.

And that the locals initially thought him mad to give it away.

Only it has paid back in spades through tourism.

The townspeople cashed in then too when the producers offered them €100 each to remove their boats from the harbour while they shot scenes.

The Lovrijenac Fort (€15) itself is steeped in history before you even get to GoT once boasting Europe’s largest cannon.

It was here too that Cersei and Littlefinger fell out.

Stairway to Hell

The Spanish, or Jesuit Stairs, are the best-known locale, even recognised by those who have never seen the show.

Edi tells us that, yes, it is based on Rome’s Spanish Steps.

So they set a fine of €150 for those who took off their top or bras.

And so as Edi took the stragglers off to a makeshift Iron Throne.

The authentic ones are in the North of Ireland and Lokrum, in eye’s view of Dubrovnik.

And it is to Lokrum that we head next on our pearl anniversary odyssey of Croatia and Montenegro.

With loveholidays and EasyJet, staying at the Grand Park Hotel in the peninsula.

Countries, Deals, Europe

Croatia, one island down, 1,243 to go

18th October 202418th October 2024 funtime65

Croatia, one island down, 1243 to go. And I’m feeling like the peacock of the walk.

We have come the 600m from the harbour of the Old Town of Dubrovnik to Lokrum, 30% off with our Dubrovnik Pass (€30).

And the contrast is stark… and Targaryen, Lannister, Baratheon, Greyjoy, Tully, Arryn, Martell, and Tyrell.

The Queen of all she surveys

Visitors today come to luscious Lokrum to continue their Game of Thrones odyssey.

To sit on the Iron Throne which, of course, is where you will find my Mother of all Dragons.

While I stride the uneven stones up the Path of Paradise.

To the Fort Royal (French)/Fort Maximillian (Austrian) for her, after she has given me the slip.

When I should have known ‘to find her in her father’s temple’.

Floating on water

Her orders decreed from her throne she goes out to survey her domain.

The botanical gardens and the batcave… no, actual bats, not another fantasy franchise.

And the Dead Sea, no, not the actual Dead Sea but a saltwater cave and lake all the same.

I’ve the answer: Every day is a schoolday

Where again we have to step gingerly on the jaggedy stones to climb into the fresh reviving water.

We have come without towels, again she has one job to do!

But we soon dry off in the early 20s temperatures.

The Emerald Isle

Lokrum, the Emerald Isle, is uninhabited and it is liberating to be free of the crowds who throng the Old Town.

The only residents of the half a mile island are those bats, who only come out at night.

And the peacocks who strut their stuff which is why my own bird of paradise feels so at home here.

But we must take flight… we are intent to make our last day on our loveholidays and EasyJet holiday, staying in the Grand Park Hotel, in Croatia, special.

Croatia, one island down, 1243 to go. And we have our sights set on three more, the Eliphet Islands which we will share here with you.

MEET YOU ON THE WATER

Countries, Deals, Europe

Another Dubrovnik where war is real

16th October 202417th October 2024 funtime65

They come today to tred the Walk of Shame, but look around you and you will catch another Dubrovnik where war is real.

That the world pronounces that they will try and protect such jewels is admirable.

Although philistines and warmongers pay little heed.

Cities of culture

As anyone knows who followed the Dresden story and witnessed how they rebuilt that Renaissance city, the Florence of the Elbe.

History moves on and for Dresden 1945 read Dubrovnik 1991.

When the expansionist Serbs laid siege to the Pearl of the Adriatic over the autumn and winter of that year of change.

The tragedy of the Siege of Dubrovnik is that it had become a refuge for Croatians from neighbouring towns and villages.

Those who believed its cultural heritage would prick the Serbs’ conscience.

Defenders of Dubrovnik

The full story of the Fight for the Homeland is detailed at the War Museum above the Old Town.

Which today’s visitors can reach by cable car (€32 for two) which do give stunning vistas.

Although if you’re feeling fit you can walk up the winding 2km path.

It was after all how the defenders of Dubrovnik scaled the heights.

With their donkeys and their artillery and provisions.

The War Museum is a testament to the courage of the Defenders of Dubrovnik.

Road to freedom

Military aficionados will focus on the cache of weapons and uniforms and insignia on display.

While for this journalist and his photojournalist wife the audio film and pictorial and editorial displays of the Siege capture our attention.

We spend a couple of hours learning and assimilating the Siege of Dubrovnik before walking down the slopes to the Old Town.

We place stones by the crosses that mark the winding path and say a prayer at the Stations of the Cross.

It is a leisurely stroll and one not afforded those who fought and died here in 1991.

Let the Games begin

A Game of Thrones tour awaits us down by the fountain at the front gates of the Old Town.

It is, of course, all fantasy which we will share with you as we continue our loveholidays and EasyJet holiday.

And for that we are all thankful.

Countries, Deals, Europe

Dipping your toe in the Adriatic

15th October 202415th October 2024 funtime65

Nico waxes lyrical about growing up as a child in Dubrovnik on the Adriatic, en route to Montenegro.

Where the young are water babes, spending every available minute in the sea.

I am blessed to share my life with a little mermaid myself.

And she has it in her mind to swim out to the boat anchored in the harbour of the Lapad peninsula.

A 20-minute bus ride into the Old Town.

Step on it

We have been up and down the pristine cliffside path from the promenade looking for the ideal alcove for our swim.

We are spoiled for choice and eventually settle on what we’ve decided will be ours for our seven-day duration.

On our loveholidays and EasyJet holiday, staying at the Grand Park Hotel.

Just below the Restaurant More with its tables set for breakfast and morning espressos.

A couple of likely lads jump in ahead of us and snorkel away as we brace ourselves for the cooling waters.

Before we take the plunge.

The new wave

And soon we work off the cooked breakfast from the all-you-can eat buffet.

And a special mention on that and the Hotel Park’s funky pancake maker.

Which will put our expert at home out of a job.

All that’s needed is a press of a button and a wave to the elves inside and out pops the globule which forms into your treat.

Refreshed from our morning swim we plan our day.

How to train your Dragon

The Mother of All Dragons has it in her mind to circle the Old Town walls… but on foot.

We have a seven-day Dubrovnik Pass which allows us one-time entry into most of the attractions for £95.

The curative effects of the salty Adriatic have soothed her ardour and the ankles that have become a feeding ground for insects.

That’s the benefits of dipping your toe in the Adriatic.

Countries, Culture, Europe

With the Croatians in the Belfast Celtic bar

13th October 202413th October 2024 funtime65

Enough about the score already I reverted to type and spent post-match Dubrovnik with the Croatians in the Belfast Celtic bar.

The good people of Hrvatska have quickly moved on too from their favourites beating Scotland 2-1 in the European Nations Cup.

As Josko, with whom I share a sauna back in my billet at the Grand Hotel Park, reminds me, it’s only a friendly.

The Dubrovcanins are too, curious and direct.

By the time we part and I revive myself with my cold overhead shower I feel we have more of an insight of each other.

Although, gratefully for you dear reader, no unsavoury mental images here, Croatians wear towels to protect their modesty.

Green party

Whether the locals indeed know the Celtic history which is enough to make your hearts go whoah, whoah, whoa is moot.

They may just like the green, white and gold colour scheme on the walls and the craic.

The locals were out in numbers, drinking the Ozujksko local brew although naturally there is Guinness on tap.

The Celtic Bar Belfast Dubrovnik is obviously a treasure trove.

For those who follow the Bhoys with pictures of heroes, past and present.

And Irish reference and political points such as a You Are Welcoming Free Derry model.

Feeling flush

In the interests of fairness and reaching across the Glasgow Religious Divide the Belfast Bar is inclusive to their Rangers rivals.

In the urinal and the loo where the Gers’ crest is prominent.

Now for those who like their subject matter puerile and guttural then we will be delving into Game of Thrones Old Town Dubrovnik.

And share that with you and much else.

As we continue our loveholidays and easyJet holiday to Dubrovnik for our pearl anniversary.

But for now we’re checking out what else is on the prom and diddly om pom pom and that’s worth a piece in itself.

Underscoring this week though we’ve got us our sports bar so that’s our nights sorted.

With the Croatians in the Belfast Celtic bar.

Countries, Culture, Europe

Back on the road to Dubrovnik

12th October 202412th October 2024 funtime65

I’ve the right passport this time so won’t have to turn around… we’re back on the road to Dubrovnik.

We’ve been over this ground before here and how I took myself off the coach from Medjugorje at the first stop.

Because I had my old passport on me with my American visa stamped on it.

With my current one back in the safe in the hostel.

And going through non-EU Bosnia & Herzegovina into EU Croatia requires a passport.

My Queen of Dragons

All of which comes into sharp focus as I take my Queen of Dragons to Dubrovnik today.

On her 30th anniversary trip courtesy of loveholidays.

The boards at Edinburgh Airport remind us to check our passports.

And make sure that if we have new UK passports that they are signed.

To avoid delays at custom checks on the other side.

Much has changed since I last visited the Balkans.

But thankfully not in that fractious but fabulous strip of south-eastern Europe.

Rather back in Britain where since our own return from 13 years in Ireland Boris got Brexit done.

Boris’s Brexit balls-up

And don’t you know Johnson has a book out, Unleashed, brazenly boasting about that.

It’s on sale at WH Smith’s and The Bookshop at Edinburgh Airport and all good stores at 18.99… he needs the money, of course.

So what of this new UK passport they are harking on about here?

Well, it will ensure you longer waits to get through customs.

As you’re filed into the non-integrationist line of European airports.

Just back from Berlin earlier this year I witnessed signs advising to leave an hour to get through customs.

Of course, for those of us who left the club.

Sure, we’re all Irish

I’m not planning, though, on going through the rigmarole of renewing my British passport in three years’ time.

With an unusual source for pushing me to set in motion something I should have done years ago…

Get an Irish passport.

Because I owe my much-storied neighbour Royalist Roy for giving me the shove.

When trying to get me around to his house to pledge a troth (no, me neither) to the newly-anointed King Charles.

To make his point, he smilingly asked me how I was described on my passport.

World of Game of Thrones

To be fair he is tending to our front lawn while we’re away.

Royalist Roy that is, not his hero.

While I’m back on the road to Dubrovnik with a passport that will get me through customs.

And where we will explore the world of the Game of Thrones.

And put aside the world of the Shame of Thrones for a week until we return.

Jim and Sarah are staying at the 4* Grand Park Hotel, Dubrovnik for seven nights, H/B with balcony view for £1,121.

With return flights from Edinburgh with EasyJet from under three hours.

Countries, Europe, Ireland, Sport, UK

We’ll always stay friends Croatia

22nd June 202122nd June 2021 funtime65

And while all those of a Scottish variety will be hoping we beat them today we’ll always stay friends Croatia.

Scotland’s Euro 2020 hopes hang on them winning against the Balkan belters.

In 2018 Croatia’s international dreams were far higher.

As they prepared for the World Cup Final against France.

One Dalmatian

The Croatians who I’d got to know and love while living in Ireland.

As a guest of their embassy and Croatia Tours were filled with excitement.

And good Dalmatian wine.

All of which I helped them imbibe on the morning of the World Cup Final.

Before, and this is to my eternal shame, I switched camps and saw the game and celebrated with the French at their embassy.

The World Cup Final

And this allows me to say that I watched France win the World Cup Final in France.

The embassy land always belonging to that country.

And the Croatians being the good eggs that they are they didn’t hold any of that against me.

And put out the red and white checked carpet for me when I went on another different type of pilgrimage, to Medjugorje.

Now geographic pedants will point out that Medge, as it’s known to devotees to the Marian site, is in Bosnia & Herzegovina.

And yes it is, but try telling that to the Croat-daft residents of that village for whom the only religion to rival Catholicism is football.

The Gods of Medge

Captain Luka Modric is something of a God in Medge with tops with his name emblazoned on them hanging from every shop.

And it is a familiar aspect of other countries I have visited for religion and football to coexist in such harmony.

I saw it first hand in Rome where Francisco Totti is as omnipresent as the Pope.

And again in Fatima in Portugal where Cristiano Ronaldo is a deity.

I witnessed just how passionate the Croatians are about their football when we were taking downtime from church in Medge.

And we were watching the Champions League in the Irish Centre.

Dynamic Croatians

If onlys: Beaten World Cup finalists Croatia

Which for ‘Elvis’ the name our group had given the owner meant his beloved Dynamo Zagreb.

Apologies again for not memorising the club song he blasted out on the speakers before the game.

So that’s twice I haven’t taken up the Croatians’ clarion call.

And national identity and an accident of birth means I again will have to make my apologies when Scotland eliminate Croatia.

I hope though we’ll always stay friends Croatia.