Countries, Europe, Sport

Herr for der beer in Gelsenkirchen

And for the day that’s in it we’re only herr for der beer in Gelsenkirchen.

Gelsenkirchen has been transformed into Little England or Little Serbia, if you will, as their supporters take over the Ruhrland for today’s Euros clash.

Now if the organisers had picked a venue especially for lager-loving England fans then it would be the VELTINS Arena.

Because they literally pipe in the beer to the stadium.

All 52,000 litres of the amber nectar along a 5km super beer highway from Schalke 04’s own brewery.

Flowing in the Frothierland

Ground hero: At the VELTINS

It all dates back to an open day at the ground when the beer ran out for the thirsty fans.

And the club took the pioneering decision to never again leave it to chance and keep the beer flowing in the Frothierland.

All of which we saw for ourselves in the aftermath of a Schalke game on a football tour of Ruhrland.

When we walked through the sticky concourse and into the main arena.

Where you’d be forgiven for thinking you were still in a tipsy haze because the pitch has gone.

Grounds for optimism

Tunnel vision: And Schalke legends

The efficient Germans have only put it out with the empties, it would seem.

But, nein, this is another ingenious feature of the VELTINS arena, the moveable pitch.

Schalke, you see keep their pitch outside and slide it in for match days.

So that they can use the arena for other attractions.

And what’s more important than any mere kickball match is that it will make more room for the Swifties.

When Tay-Tay sweeps into Gelsenkirchen next month.

For three days of partying for 180,000 good-natured music festivalgoers.

The lowdown

Scarf time: The Schalke tour

Alas though, and here is der kicker, different rules will apply today for the football fans of England and Serbia.

With the match deemed high risk and only allowed low alcohol beer at the ground.

While a special free UEFA Euro fan park had been erected on the Trabrenbahn racecourse in the centre of Gelsenkirchen for England fans.

‘Er outdoors: The pitch outside

Where there’s music, games and food and drinks stalls.

Now, if your tastebuds have been tickled by the thought of full-strength Ruhr lager.

And you are out in these parts, then lucky you.

Toast to the others

On the boardwalk: The versatile interior

And know this, there are three other matches to be played between countries who aren’t on probation.

So that’s Italy v Spain on Thursday, June 20 and Georgia v Portugal on Wednesday, June 26.

And then a round of 16 game between the first in Group C and the third in D/E/F (no, us neither).

Schalke fans, of course, get to imbibe every week of their season.

Tay to go: The OG Swiftie

And on all the other occasions such as when the Swifties are in town.

Or when party-loving, football fanatical good-hearted Scots are herr for der beer in Gelsenkirchen.

So if you’re in Gelsenkirchen this week, in the coming weeks or any time then wish the locals Gluck Auf.

It means luck up which is kinda similar to something that would come out of a English football hooligan’s mouth.

 

 

 

 

Countries, Europe, Sustainable Tourism

What Germans mean by Gluck Auf

Now you may be startled the first time a German tells you to Gluck Auf but don’t fret they’re really just wishing you good luck.

Gluck Auf is the everyday greeting of Esseners who hail from the mitten in Europa (the middle of Europe).

Hardy folk the Esseners, mining as they did its land for 150 years.

And versatile too as they have transformed themselves from the coal centre of Europe to its green champion.

While preserving the hardy and resilient character which is, for want of a better word, their essence.

And which they reference in that exhortation which translates as Luck Up.

The everyday exchange between miners before they descended in the bowels of the earth.

Wishing that they would see each other again safe and well above ground.

Ruhr odyssey

Kaiser so say: Kaiser Wilhelm in Essen

We are continuing our odyssey in the Ruhr region.

And hearing of the greening of the Ruhr, Germany’s industrial heartland which is now leading the way in sustainability.

To such an extent that global warming has turned the Ruhr into Reisling Country.

Not that you need to worry though that they might have dropped the Beer part of the Coal, Steel and Beer appellation.

World class: German football

We had learnt on our Football Cult(ure) leg of our German Travel Mart experiences the lengths clubs will go to to keep their supporters libated.

When Schalke 04 ran out of beer on their centenary party at their stadium and had to serve non-alcoholic beer it was a red flag.

And so they built pipes into the ground to ensure that never happened again.

Bear in mind too that Schalke serve up 45,000 litres of beer at their Veltins Arena every match.

Not to mention enough curryvurst sausages to put a fresh hole in the ozone layer.

Sustainable future

Billet: The Atlantic Congress Hotel

That though is tempered by the sustainable flora and fauna forward planning.

And blue-sky thinking that has seen former Chancellor Willy Brandt’s prophecy from the Fifties come true.

That one day clean air would return to the grey Ruhr region.

And it has, with blue water too which has made it a hub for canoeists and water sport aficionados.

While hikers and cyclists too have been drawn to the countryside trails.

Old King Coal

Coal: Always remember your soul

Those very same bikers have found in the post-industrial landscape a playground for their passion.

Which they demonstrated, as did the street and breakdancers, on our opening night.

In the impressive UNESCO Zollverein Coal Mine Complex.

No such exertions for our party, just sit back, drink our Ruhr Reisling, eat our curryvurst sausages.

Clink glasses, exhort Prost, look each other in the eye and add Gluck Auf.

 

 

 

 

Countries, Europe

The Ruhr Roar

We pride ourselves in Scotland on the sound our football fans make but truly it can surely never match The Ruhr Roar.

I am standing in the Yellow Wall of Borussia Dortmund’s Westfalenstadion and a little kid 100 rows is screaming.

We’re told her screech would be amplified 20,000 times when the supporters are yelling on their beloved Borussia.

Borussia beer: At BVB’s ground

You imagine it would be difficult pitchside for a coach, say ex-Borussia boss Jurgen Klopp, to get his messages to his players or his staff.

But today on our stadium tour it is not a problem, we only need to get the attention of the barman serving us beer in the technical area.

Another brand might say if they did football tours these would be the best football tours in the world.

Deutschland uber alles

Scotland rule the world: German Football Museum

Certainly for German fans as we visit too the National Football Museum.

Though not the Hungarian in our group who left with the cheers for the German team who beat his side to the World Cup in 1954 ringing in his ears.

The Miracle of Bern, the first of four World Cups Germany have won is referenced relentlessly throughout the one-hour tour.

And to think my own native Scotland have only won four finals matches in their entire history.

All of which means that the closest you’ll ever get to see a Scot next to the World Cup is in a museum like this.

World champ: With the WC

Now football museums may seem a niche interest but they are a cultural guide into a people at play.

Gelsekirchen’s kickin’

And you know what I say about seeking out the quarters where the locals play and pray when you travel.

Schalke to the four: With Celin

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