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Der train to take der strain

6th December 20256th December 2025 funtime65

That’s typical Teutonic efficiency for you, linking up our connections to expand our options to see our Freunds now and now letting der train to take der strain.

We’re veteran travellers on the autobahns from our days on Aussie/Kiwi Top Deck buses to Oktoberfest in Munich.

Although to be fair ‘Wombat’ our bus driver was doing all the heavy lifting.

While don’t tell the Germans but we were doing the heavy tipping.

The bucket of pee from our tinnies out the top window because we couldn’t wait for the women on board to vacate the one loo.

The autobahns famously are a driver’s dream with some stretches without any speed restrictions, which is probably what Wombat was relying on.

Travel weary

Of course there’s lots of fun and opportunity to get to know each other on a booze bus but sometimes you just want to get there quicker.

And avoid the ferries.

By jetting it which should take the stress out of your journey but only if you can negotiate the snaking hubs that are a Frankfurt or Munich airport.

In their favour though once you do get through and negotiate the long queues that come with the special treatment you get from being British then Deutsche Bahn is waiting for you.

To take you around Deutschland for the type of economic prices that would make anybody who has used Britain’s trains weep.

Starmer trouper

Answer to our prayers: Cologne Cathedral

With all that in mind we have high hopes for the new direct rail links which our Prime Minister Keir Starmer has been seeing through with our German counterparts.

Deutsche Bahn and Eurostar have set the foundation in a Memorandum of Understanding for first high-speed connection.

New routes between London, Cologne and the aforementioned Frankfurt planned for early 2030s are set to boost tourism, create jobs and help stimulate economic growth

Millions of passengers could benefit from quicker and more convenient travel across Europe.

All aboard the double-decker

The only way to travel: The double-deckers

The announcement follows the very first meeting of a joint UK-Germany taskforce on in Berlin last week.

All of which brought transport experts from both governments and industries together.

To pave the way for direct international rail and examine how to address the barriers to services.

The routes would use Eurostar’s new double-decker Celestia fleet, which offers 20 per cent more capacity.

And make up to 50 per cent in energy savings compared with its existing fleet.

Der rail quickfire journey

One we prepared earlier: The Outlaw, the mother-in-law

Offering direct city centre to city centre connection, passengers could soon travel between London and Cologne in around four hours.

And Frankfurt in just over five hours, providing more choice, more comfort and a sustainable alternative to flying.

This comes as the German President Frank-Walter Steinmeier flew in for a three-day State Visit to the UK, where he was wined, dined and Prosted by our Germanic Royals.

Of course, it’ll be only a matter of time before he can get dere train to take der strain.

Countries, Europe

Happy in Snow White Village

26th May 202526th May 2025 funtime65

And because Germany really is a fairytale land here’s where to go to be truly Happy in Snow White Village.

Because whisper it, no in fact shout it, Snow White does exist.

And not just on the big screen you’ve been dazzled by this summer’s Disney hit.

But in Bad Wildungen in Hesse, 70 miles from Frankfurt.

The original fairytale hero

Where the legend of Margaretha Von Waldeck originates.

Marge, which she was never called, heaven forfend, was a kindly and beautiful young noblewoman.

Who it is said was poisoned and died in what is modern-day Brussels.

And yes, there was an inspiration for The Seven Dwarves too.

In the many children who worked in the copper mines run by Marge’s dad.

Hi-hi, hi-ho in Bergfreiheit

All of which you can enjoy at the Schneewittchenhaus Bergfreiheit.

Where mine host will take you into the life of the dwarfs in the small, typical one-room houses.

In the larger of the two living spaces visitors can see where the seven dwarfs slept in just one room.

After a long day ho-ho-hoeing, and off to the work they went to the mine.

The dwarfs’ table is all there already set, obvs by the little birdies.

Dwarf prices

While there are seven cute little beds, three of which are loft beds, against the wall.

In the other living space you can see how the dwarfs and Snow White prepared food.

There is a kitchen with an old stove and a table as well as all kinds of accessories and utensils.

And it is all pitched at dwarfish prices. Adults: €3, children up to 13 €1.50.

And groups of ten people or more €2.50 per person.

Suiting all kinds whether you’re Happy in Snow White Village or Bashful and they’ll cheer up any Grumpy kid.

Grimm up north

The Snow White Village, is, of course, on movie buffs’ map just now.

Just as Germany was from the start for Walt Disney from when he first saw Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria.

But she is just one of the many storied German characters curated by the Brothers Grimm.

And commemorated these past 50 years on the German Fairytale Route which we’ve flagged up here already.

And runs 370 miles from the brothers’ birthplace Hanau in central Germany to Bremen in the north.

Through their childhood town of Steinau an der Strasse with The Brothers Grimm House, now a museum.

As is GRIMM WORLD in Kassel where the bros wrote their tales and a which celebrates its 10th anniversary this year.

All our heroes and heroines

You’ll pass some familiar heroes and locations along the way.

Including Rapunzel’s tower, the castle where Sleeping Beauty lay for 100 years and Hamelin and its Pied Piper.

En route to Bremen with its showpiece Town Musicians.

And the free weekly reenactment and humanising of the Bremen statue animals.

Countries, Deals, Europe

Dresden’s phoenix from the flames 80 years on

13th February 202513th February 2025 funtime65

It is unrecognisable from the embers of February 13, 1945 when Allied bombers set the jewel of Saxony on fire but look at it now… Dresden’s phoenix from the flames 80 years on.

As talk turns to reconstruction in Ukraine, and also Gaza, Dresden stands as an object lesson.

to the world of a people’s resilience and ambition to restore itself to its former glories.

Dignitaries gathered in the city’s most sacred spot, its Holy of Holies, the Frauenkirche to mark the date.

Including the British royal family’s Duke of York, who would have been nine when the bombs dropped and likely little aware even of where Dresden was.

Although we’re told that he has spent the last 30 years fostering links between the one-time enemies.

Building bridges

Perhaps the most symbolic example of building bridges (and yes, the Elbe crossings had to be reconstructed too) involved silversmith Alan Smith.

The son of one of the bomber pilots who had taken part on the raid over Dresden on the night of the 14th of February 1945.

Who we were told when we met too in the reconstructed Frauenkirche over a German travel fair.

To hear of how the orb on the top of the building was his tribute to the Dresdeners of 1945.

At Great Uncle Willie’s grave: In Flanders, Belgium

We’ve seen first hand how the fiercest foes have stretched out a hand to end enmity.

As British soldier Harry Patch did past his 100th birthday in Ieper, Flanders.

And we as nations have in a NATO which is showing signs of stress.

But which it must be remembered has ensured peace in Western Europe for 80 years.

Hand in hand

Giving praise for our peace and security that day back eight years now.

While listening to the pastor in the Frauenkirche we had no foresight of what was to come in Ukraine.

The Chookie Kent will do the Ich Bin Ein Dresdener and link arms with the human chain in Germany.

Just as hundreds do annually, standing hand in hand to form a protective ring in remembrance of those who died.

Back then on my visit to Dresden we celebrated the living.

Me and Ingrid, our tour guide whose mum had been woken that ill-fated evening when the Red Storm befell Dresden.

And we, a Brit and German embraced 72 years later, a testimony that not all enmities are everlasting.

Travel facts

Dome from home: In front of the Frauenkirche

How to get there: KLM Dublin to Dresden via Amsterdam €167 Return €157.

Where to stay: The Amedia Plaza hotel in the old city: B&B three nights €243-315 for business single in July.

Countries, Europe

The Grimms’ German Fairy Tale Route at 50… oh yes it is

17th December 202417th December 2024 funtime65

And because we’re in panto season let’s celebrate the half-century of the trail marking its origins, the Grimms’ German Fairy Tale route at 50… oh yes it is.

Now panto might be one of those traditions as British as, em, poinsettia (Mexico), the nativity scene (Italy), Christmas Trees and Advent calendars (German).

But they are of course largely cribbed from Teuton tales.

Fairytale Germany

You don’t believe us (well, do) but for those naysayers the German Fairy Tale Route will put you right.

The German Fairy Tale Route is rightfully one of the country’s most famous holiday routes.

Stretching 600kms from southern Germany to Bremen, with a final detour to Buxtehude, near Hamburg.

Your journey will begin in the city of Hanau near Frankfurt, the birthplace of the brothers Grimm and you will travel through 50 towns.

Immerse yourself in the world of among others Little Red Riding Hood in Alsfeld, The Pied Piper of Hamelin.

And the Snow White museum in the spa town of Bad Wildungen.

And, get this, Cinderella’s home in Polle, the Snow White town of Bergfreiheit.

Or take a guided tour like those children of Hamelin with the Pied Piper himself.

Fifty years of fun

The 50-year fun will run from next April with a variety of events across the towns.

Now as well as our favourites you can discover some German goodies you might never have heard of.

Such as Doctor Ironbeard in Hann town hall (you’ve won us over already), the travelling Baroque doctor.

He’ll show you his skills and relieve you of minor ailments whether toothache or kidney stones.

With an anaesthetic hammer and a shooting iron, he puts an end to suffering.

The central birthday celebration across August 16-17 at Sababurg Zoo, close to the castle said to be the inspiration for Sleeping Beauty.

Brilliant Bremen

Now you’ll want to learn more about the Town Musicians of Bremen.

And one of the best statues you’ll find anywhere the stacked animals podium in the town centre.

Now quirky fairytales, fun and frothy and fatty food is the essence of what makes for a good German party.

And every town boasts its own legend with Hamburg which you can attach on to your trail boasting its own Hummel water-carrier figure, identifiable to any Hamburger anywhere in the world.

So whether you take in a panto this season or not turn your mind to the fun you can have next year in Germany.

With the Grimms’ German Fairy Tale Route at 50… oh yes it is.

Countries, Europe

The advent of calendars in Germany

2nd December 20242nd December 2024 funtime65

And as our Freunde in Deutschland launch their Christmas prize giveaway around the advent of calendars in Germany we celebrate its history.

Where else because as we all know modern-day Christmas was invented in Germany…

Christmas trees, markets, tinsel, nutcrackers, and yes, advent calendars.

Advent calendar fans everywhere owe the Lutherans who started the tradition back in the 19th century.

For their favourite Crimbo accessory.

And Christians in the occupied territories of post-War Germany trying to bring a little bit of festive cheer back in their lives.

The art of Stuttgart

Starting off in super Stuttgart where they gained permission to print 50,000 paper calendars in the French occupation zone.

Appropriate then that it should be the pride of the Baden-Württemberg state which should be chosen to kick off the digital Advent calendar on Secret Escapes from today.

Each day, the calendar reveals the range of German cities or regions, providing inspiration for winter getaways.

Each day is a new chance to win a stay in Germany.

Participants are invited to sign up for each day to enter the prize draw.

Der great escape

Secret Escape’s website offers a range of additional attractive travel deals, inspiring travellers to book their own break.

Reaching over 10 million UK members, it is the ideal platform to inspire travellers to plan their winter holiday.

So whether you’re planning to take in a Christmas market where they all began.

Or the Advent calendar just gives you a list of must-do German cities and regions.

Then join us walking in a Winter Wunderbar.

And open one of those doors and win a prize and mark the advent of calendars in Germany.

Countries, Europe

Falling for Berlin over 35 years

2nd October 20242nd October 2024 funtime65

It’s liberating to be able to walk aimlessly from West to East, and we can, and have been falling for Berlin over 35 years.

Today’s Berlin is a very different city to the one that had the attention of the world in 1989.

When a cack-handed apparatchik’s mis-step was taken as an invitation to East Germans to cross the Wall.

First, of course, they had to get over it which psychologically was towering.

And terrifying with 140 citizens from the DDR dying trying to flee to the West, either over it, through it, or under it.

Building walls

Today my German freunde will gather in London to reflect on the momentous events of November 9 and Berlin’s future.

The most visible sign of a new Berlin to the one anyone over the age if 40 grew up witnessing is the lack of that wall.i

In truth, a visitor to Berlin will have to go searching for that wall.

Something Berliners did not have the luxury of enjoying, being divided by the wall for 28 years.

This visitor, with a day to explore didn’t find it although, in truth, I haven’t the best record in that department.

Having gone round in circles trying to get to Little Havana in Miami and going off piste on the small roads to Rome.

The Berliners’ guide

Best I hadn’t let my enthusiasm get the better of me and tried finding the Wall myself, and followed the Berliners’ guides.

To Checkpoint Charlie or the East Side Gallery, the latter at 1.3kms the longest remaining section of the Wall on the Spree.

The eastern side of the wall, painted by 118 artists from 21 countries.

And the longest open-air gallery in the world.

And it is here that you will see the meme of former DDR President Erich Honecker and Leonid Brezhnev.

Rockin’ it: The Berlin Wall ‘piece’ on my fridge

At the Socialist Brotherly Kiss, a mural by Dimitrji Vrubel.

Which you will see in every souvenir shop and on rows of key rings.

Along with chunks of what are claimed to be the one true wall.

In much the same way as fragments of the one true cross were pedalled on that Road to Rome.

Potsdamer Platz to be

Kissing cousins: Brezhnev and Honicker mural

This DIY explorer did find his Wall outside the Potsdamer Platz on his way to Albrecht-Achilles-Strasse.

The last original Wall segments at Potsdamer Platz (Stresemannstraße) were demolished 15 years ago.

Six sections have since been erected in front of the entrance area of the station Potsdamer Platz.

While just around the corner in Erna-Berger-Straße is one of Berlin’s last watchtowers.

But now covered up due to renovation work.

There will be talk and laughing and clinking of steins by my German freunde tonight in London.

Ich bin ein Berliner

Much as there was back in 1989 when Germans East and West reunited across the divide of the Wall.

And the world watched and smiled and leant support.

And we’ve been falling for Berlin over 35 years since and will for the next 35 years and beyond.

Countries, Europe

Ampel time for East German signs

27th April 202427th April 2024 funtime65

Ja, they literally stop traffic and as we reflect on 35 years since the Fall of the Wall we do still have Ampel time for East German signs.

And other quirky stop-go ways of keeping motorists and pedestrians in sync around the world.

Berlin, East German and all Deutschland life today moves to the beat of the spritely little figure in the straw hat.

Which is for all its austerity the most resounding legacy of the GDR.

Along with the statues and wall reliefs of Communist icons in the German capital, Dresden, Leipzig and Chemnitz (Karl Marx Stadt) to remind the citizens of their history.

Put a straw hat on it

The Ampelmannchen, like much despite the interference of politicians, survived because of its popularity with the public.

He had been astride the East since traffic psychologist Karl Peglau came up with the idea in 1961.

With Ampelmannchen’s distinctive straw hat a nod to a summer photo leader Erich Honecker.

A small victory one would think for the oppressed East Germans to immortalise their Communist leader in bourgeoisie couture.

Capitalising on GDR icons

Come reunification there was clearly much to organise.

And despite the famous Teuton efficiency it was overlooked that there was a difficulty with differing signs and fonts between the two Germanys.

With the Western figure oddly more pencil-straight, regimental than the quirkier East German fave.

So while Westernisation swept over the East, the East hung on to their traffic signs and the West absorbed them.

The Ampelmannchen clearly would not be moved.

And as the ultimate signal of capital’s hold the Ampelmannchen has become synonymous with modern German life.

With shops proliferating around Berlin and around Germany, selling the little man with the straw hat.

Anything from ironically stationery to stickers to mugs to fridge magnets to mouse mats.

With mine taking pride of place at home now.

Signs of the times

Now I’ll clearly always have Ampel time for East German signs.. and their people.

And make instant judgements on a people by which quirky signs they choose to guide us on our way around their towns and villages.

Now it’s green lights to Berlin with EasyJet with a sample return ticket for £82.99.

Countries, Culture, Europe

With ein little help from der Freunde

24th April 202424th April 2024 funtime65

So how do I feel by the end of the day? Well, I get by with ein little help from der Freunde in Berlin.

I am on the last leg (and my last legs) of my whistlestop tour of Deutschland for the annual travel convention, the German Travel Mart.

And as is my wont when left on my own I have gone off piste.

Despite the best efforts and planning of Nicole, my planner extraordinaire and Deutsche Mark as I’ll now know him.

My globetrotting English buddy and human sat-nav who I rely on every year at this convention.

Which last year took us to Essen in the Ruhrland and this year Chemnitz (or Karl Marx Stadt) in Saxony.

Strassed out

And so, pulled along by the German history in front of me and my wheelie rucksack, I over-reach when I see the sign for Charlottenburg.

And rather than double-back to go to the central station, the Haubtbanhof on Europaplatz.

For my simple eight-minute ride to Charlottenburg, my billet for the night I decide to march in.

I have done the de rigueur Brandenburg Gate, the Reichstag and Potsdam and got my picture in front of a block of the Berlin Wall.

Which this year has been down 35 years, longer than it was up, but worthy of commemorating and celebrating.

Which I have also done in Leipzig outside the church where the protests which triggered the revolution began.

A day in the strife

Emboldened by that spirit of freedom blowing through an icy April eve in the German capital I feel like taking on the world.

Literally… springing past the embassies of the world and always keeping the signs for Charlottenburg in my sights.

No going back now even when the guard at the booth at the Japan embassy alerts me to the fact that I am 5 miles from my destination.

Having my now trudged that distance in my excitement.

Ich bus ein Berliner

I am though blessed to see a part of Berlin few do.

And with a little help from der Freunde at a hotel and a bus stop I am pointed towards a stop where I can take another bus.

To Adenhauerstrasse where hopefully I will be able to find my hotel, the Yggotel Ravn, on Albrecht-Achilles Strasse.

Of course with low battery on my phone and no internet I cannot turn to Google Maps so I go old-fashioned.

And ask at the Apothekary where a helpful assistant (the first couldn’t speak English never mind Glaswegian) got me on track.

Berlin haul

Weary of bone I slumped on the desk of my hotel half an hour later.

And after booking in asked how best to get to the airport in the morning.

Only to be told it would be €70 by taxi.

Now working on the proposition that four heads are better than one I asked her colleague for help.

And the two travellers who had just arrived through the swing doors and I recognised from our Chemnitz party.

All of which would save me €65 and take just a 15-minute walk to the Charlottenburg S, or train station.

Of course I did a recce that night which took me around an hour and introduced me to the backstreets of the district and a Russian supermarket.

One way or another I did get my train to the airport the next day with ein little help from der Freunde.

Countries, Culture, Europe

Rock me Amadeus in Dresden

12th December 202312th December 2023 funtime65

The great composer would find a lot the same in the Florence of the Elbe today which is the beauty of the Saxon gem… so, rock me Amadeus in Dresden.

Dresden, as we have come to know despite a British school system that tried to airbrush the WWII firebomb, rebuilt its grandeur.

With its palaces, kirches, friezes and Semperoper retouched in every finest Renaissance detail from 1789 when Mozart visited.

Such was Mozart’s renown that culture and opera lovers of the day would travel far and wide from his Austrian home

To Germany and across the continent to listen to the superstar.

Culture vultures

Much as they do today but whereas opera buffs then would rely on rickety stagecoaches.

Today’s culture vultures can just leave it all to the go-to people in opera holidays to the great music cities of Europe, The Institute for Culture Travel.

IFC is floating a four-night tour to buy for Christmas, in Hof & Dresden from Friday, June 14 to Tuesday, June 18.

Hof and running

Let me entertain you: With a Cassidy score

15^th June: Opera in Hof – Patrick Cassidy’s ‘Dante – From Inferno to Paradise’

You’ll start in Hof in this picturesque Bavarian town where you’ll spend two nights.

The highlight will be the world premiere of Patrick Cassidy‘s opera, ‘Dante – From Inferno to Paradise’ and a meet and greet.

Patrick, Ireland’s most renowned living classical composer, is known for his film scores.

And the aria ‘Vide Cor Meum’ from the film Hannibal.

Pure magic

Before you hit the road for Dresden and the master himself and that Magic Flute ‘Die Zauberflöte’ at the repurposed Semper.

Your price will include:

Return flight Dublin-Berlin
Coach transfers as follows:

14 June: Berlin airport – Central Hotel in Hof with lunch stop
16 June: Central Hotel in Hof to Steigenberger Hotel de Saxe in Dresden
18 June: Steigenberger Hotel de Saxe in Dresden To Berlin Airport

Two-nights in the Central Hotel in Hof with breakfast
Two-nights in the Steigenberger Hotel in Dresden with breakfast.
Meals as follows:
14 June: Lunch in Leipzig on route to Hof

14 June: Drinks reception and welcome dinner in the Central Hotel in Dresden with Patrick Cassidy in attendance
15 June: Pre-opera dinner
16 June: pre-opera dinner

Category 1 ticket to Dante – From Inferno to Paradise by Patrick Cassidy in Theatre Hof
Category 1 ticket to Mozart’s enchanting opera Die Zauberflöte at the world-famous Semper Opera House.
Walking tour in Leipzig (duration approx. 1-hour)
Walking tour in Dresden (duration approx. 2-hours)

Price: €1,493pps, Single Supplement: €249

Countries, Europe

The advent of the Advent calendar

1st December 20231st December 2023 funtime65

It makes sense that the biggest one is in a Black Forest town in Germany where the world witnessed the advent of the Advent calendar.

Gengenbach in Baden-Württemberg boasts the world’s largest Advent Calendar House or Das weltgrößte Adventskalenderhaus.

And has done for 20 years, commissioning its rathaus, or town hall, into service.

With the 24 windows which face the town square turned into advent squares.

With all the pomp and ceremony that involves.

Open the doors

So that if you’re in Gengenbach this month at 6pm you’ll be witness to a ceremony where the next day’s window is unveiled and illuminated.

The ceremony is led by a herald who tells a short story in verses while children sing and dance.

And maybe look out for anyone looking like Augustus Gloop… there is a Charlie and the Chocolate Factory link

The windows are decorated with a festive Christmas scene.

And we have it on good authority too that there have been Andy Warhol works.

And scenes from the Gruffalo, Harry Potter, and Scandinavian favorite Pippi Longstocking .

Nor is the Advent Calendar the end of the showmanship in Gengenbach.

Fool’s Museum gold

With the Narrenmuseum im Niggelturm, or Fools Museum, a must visit for those who have made a life out of playing the fool.

Although you’ll have to wait until April, peak time for jesters, it would seem.

Every year, on the Saturday three and a half weeks before Ash Wednesday the town is awakened by the Hemdeglunker.

He’s the “Rogue”, the main character of Gengenbach Fasend, don’t you know, and he lives in the 118ft tower.

And on this day they go through a reenactment of a peasants uprising with the Rogue taking centre stage.

Climbing the 132 steps of the tower and taking plaudits from the mob below.

There are fireworks and poetry and masks and three weeks of carnival.

Harlequin exhibition

You having a laugh: Jesters and harlequins

The museum is open April through October, Wednesday and Saturday, 2pm to 5pm and Sunday 11am to 5pm. Admission is €2.50 for adults and 1€ for children.

Mind you, the good news is that there is a Harlequin festival until December 23.

With an exhibition by renowned town artist Walter Eberhard.

Strasbourg in France is the nearest airport and is a 45-minute drive.

So you have another couple of weeks to get out to Gengenbach to see the advent of the Advent calendar.

And as confirmed Germanophiles and looking to build on our trip earlier this year further north in Ruhrland our interest is piqued.

It will put your own chocolate-fest into sharp contrast.