Countries, Deals, Europe

On the Romantic Road through Bavaria

Once upon a time we rattled our way to Oktoberfest on a clanky Top Deck Aussie/Kiwi booze bus… age means these days it would be the Romantic Road through Bavaria.

No more cramping into a bunk on the reconstituted double decker and cooking cheek by jowl on the tiny stove downstairs.

Not to mention tipping the contents of our bladders into the booze bucket and on to the Autobahn below.

Now we can’t guarantee that there will be no Twentysomething Aussies and Kiwis and one misplaced Scot on board with Travalue.ie.

But they will guarantee you a luxury coach and river cruise seven-nighter from €3,049 pps from September 29-October 6.

Palace on the water

Here for the beer: In Munich

You’ll get flown into Germany and taken by coach to Mainz to embark on your cruise ship.

But first, of course, you’ll need to visit the Gutenberg Museum, to pay tribute to Oul Johannes, the Father of the Printing Press.

Without which your favourite travel blogger would have no scribbling career.

Mainz boasts the Gutenberg Museum, which possesses two 1455 Gutenberg Bibles, among the first books ever printed.

Now there’s nothing in there as far as we can remember from Bible class.

And plenty in favour, of wine and maybe beer with both flowing (some things never change).

While you’ll get a lesson in the German resepticles, no not the Steins although there are no shortage, but in glassblowing.

As you cruise towards Miltenberg and continue to quaint Wertheim.

Baroque and roll

Hall right now: Residenz

All a world away from our booze bus, of course.

But one we got a glimpse into as we made our way, budget style, to our beerhalls.

And glimpse these river palaces through Bavaria.

For a real bricks on the ground palace the jewel in Wurzburg’s is the Baroque Residenz.

It was originally conceived to rival the Palace of Versailles in scale.

Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it features one of Germany’s most spectacularly ornate staircases .

And dozens of interconnecting rooms adorned with gorgeous frescoes, priceless tapestries, sculptures and paintings.

Hills and thrills

Blow your own: Bavarian music

    As for the Romantic Road for which the Travalue package is billed.

    It’s a route “made up of a spellbinding procession of folkloric scenery, medieval towns, lofty castles and grand palaces, so picture-perfect they could all serve as film sets.”

    Your carriage, OK, your boat will arrive at gorgeous Rothenburg ob der Tauber.

    Crowning a hill with glorious views over the meandering river Tauber below.

    And the old town is cradled within immaculately preserved walls.

    And there’s time to explore its narrow, cobbled streets lined with tall gabled half-timbered houses.

    Mini-Rome in Germany

    Aspiring: Bamberg

    If it’s UNESCO sites you’re after then 11th-century Bamberg, billed as a mini-Rome as it sits on seven lush green hills, will be on your list.

    While Bamberg also boasts a ‘Little Venice’ – a delightful cluster of former fishermen’s houses built along the waterfront, mostly dating from the Middle Ages.

    On board we’re promised the best hospitality, a ‘Chef’s Dinner’.

    And Bavarian dance and songs performed on traditional instruments by a skilled trio.

    Nuremberg trail

    House about that: Gingerbread is a staple

    Your last stop will be Nuremberg which, yes is known for that.

    But also for its football team whose supporters I met in taking in a Bayern Munich back then on that Oktoberfest trip.

    But also for its rebuilt castle (the Germans are good at this sort of thing) and famous gingerbread,.

    And they can turn out a mean gingerbread house too.

    All of which is better taken in on the Romantic Road through Bavaria.

    Rather than on a rickety booze bus with thirsty and rowdy Aussies, Kiwis and a single lost Scot.

     

    Countries, Europe, Sport

    Danke for der German football memories

    And as Inter Milan and PSG meet tonight in Munich in the Champions League final here’s a Danke for der German football memories.

    Not that I’d wish my early experiences on supporters or neutrals converging on the pride of Bavaria.

    Get Inter ‘em: Inter Milan

    A fresh-faced pilgrim to the Oktoberfest I resolved to visit the cathedral of football that was the Olympiastadion.

    To see the mighty Bayern Munich face Nuremberg in a fiercely-fought Bavarian derby.

    Ooh La La: PSG

    Inside the ground I, of course, used what little German I had, Muller, Beckenbauer, Hoeness and they their Scottish knowledge, Stein.

    Only here for der blows

    Der boys: At the Oktoberfest

    Only the duelling didn’t stop there.

    As I found out when I got back to the Hofbrau House where I encountered two footballing frauleins fighting.

    And proceeded in true noble spirit to split them apart.

    Only to get punched in the nose for my troubles.

    And, to this day, I insist that it was their boyfriends, who had entered the row, who delivered the bloody blow.

    Mr Stein: At Munich airport

    With ambulances on hand, well this is Oktoberfest, the hospital patched me up and sent me on my way.

    Only I couldn’t remember the name of the campsite and was grateful for the taxi driver’s local knowledge.

    And for taking me to the biggest site in the city.

    Where the Aussies and Kiwis, my Top Deck companions for the week, took up annual residence.

    German lessons

    Ruhr ‘em to victory: In Dortmund

    The story, of course, ought to have ended there.

    Only a hospital envelope arrived at my family home a month later addressed to James J Murty.

    And, of course, my dad sharing my name but for the G initial would see it as his right to open my mail.

    And he gave me a lecture about high jinx and reminded me that the bill was on me.

    G’day my Beerfest buddies

    Scarf time: In Gelsenkirchen

    As a thrill-seeking teen I, of course, ignored Pater’s advice.

    And the high jinx continued up at Aberdeen particularly when the Aussies turned up unexpectedly one night and stayed a year.

    But that and the next year’s Oktoberfest and singing on the bandstand are another story.

    Fans for the memories

    And a World Cup: At the Football Museum

    That brush with the Bavarians, of course, wasn’t about to put me off Germany.

    And I have been fortunate enough to return regularly over the years.

    And even tour the heartland of German football, the Ruhr

    As well as Dortmund and the German Football Museum where I got pictured with the European Cup.

    Alas, those Bayern Munich fans, wherever they are, will not get the pleasure this year.

    Of seeing their favourites lift ‘Old Big Ears’.

    But they can console themselves with their rich history to call on.

    Of which I am part… Danke for der German football memories.

     

     

    Countries, Europe

    Oberndorf peace where the nacht is silentest

    And we could all do with that right now, that Oberndorf heavenly peace where the nacht is silentest.

    Because although Father Joseph Mohr and Franz Xaver Gruber’s classic carol looks to Bethlehem there is precious little quiet there this December.

    Stille Nacht’s origins may be little known to the millions who sing its English translation but it started out life in Austria.

    In the border town of Oberndorf bei Salzburg which had been carved out of the peace terms of the Napoleonic Wars.

    With the Austro-Hungarian Empire getting Oberndorf and Bavaria being left with separated twin Laufen.

    Guitar man

    The little town: Bethlehem

    Father Mohr and organist and teacher Franz had other challenges though on their mind in the Christmas of 1818.

    With the flooded Salzach valley damaging Franz’s organ at the worst possible time.

    Escape Claus: And Santa’s not in it

    Which is why the most authentic renditions of our favourite hymn sees a guitarist accompany the singing.

    Now Oberndorf’s place in the modern Christmas story has gone somewhat under the radar.

    And in musical terms it must be hard to get heard when you’re just 12kms along the road from Mozart and the Von Trapps’ Salzburg.

    Stille the best

    In the pink: Silent Night Museum

    Of course, Oberndorf has its day at 5pm every December 24 when they recreate that Stille Nacht in front of the Gruber-Mohr monument.

    Since 1937 the good people of the border town have been marking it at the Silent Night Chapel.

    On the site of the former St. Nicholas’ Church, a casualty of the Salzach river.

    We can attribute Stille Nacht’s universal appeal to a family of travelling folk singers, the Rainers who took the carol with them to New York.

    Ja carol

    Singalong: Your Silent Night

    Now Stille Nacht, or Silent Night will be belted out across the world as it has been for 200 years, again this month.

    Oberndorf though is the best place to hear the carol.

    And what’s better than that… well, only getting other people to hear your version.

    In the Silent Night Museum (€4.50 admission) which is next to the chapel.

    Karaoke dokey

    Voice of an angel: All is gentle

    The old parsonage where Joseph Mohr lived.

    And where visitors can enjoy the karaoke station.

    Where you can experiment with various musical and linguistic versions of the song.

    And put your own mark on the classic as happened when Father Mohr’s ‘Holy infant with curly hair’ (Holder Knab’ im lockigten Haar) was anglicised.

    Into the more prosaic ‘so gentle and mild.

    Ja, Oberndorf peace where the nacht is silentest

     

     

    Countries, Europe, Skiing, Sport

    Garmisch and G7 garnish

    As Messers Biden, Johnson, Trudeau, Macron, Scholz, Dragi and Kishida gather in Bavaria, let’s look at Garmisch and G7 garnish.

    Schloss Elmau is the fancy (of course it is) five-star pad where our leaders are staying while we struggle to pay our bills.

    And you can check it out for yourself on their site.

    Fancy specs

    Schloss boss: The G7 leaders’ hangout

    The specs have Schloss Elmau as boasting rushing streams in Elmau Valley, an Alpine nature reserve, 100 km south of Munich.

    They flag up a casual Luxury Resort, Spa Retreat & Cultural Hideaway.

    And recommend their yoga, tajiquan (no, me neither) and sports.

    Writing’s on the wall: In Garmisch

    While foodies are naturally more than catered for, readers with a phenomenal bookstores and classicos with the best concerts.

    We checked out Schloss Elmau.

    And whether because of our reputation or high heid-yins are staying there, it was booked out long-term.

    Olympic champions

    Skate away: Garmisch champions

    And so we looked at the charming village of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, 15km west, instead.

    Garmisch you probably identify with skiing and you would be right.

    And it was Garmisch where the Germans went in 1936 to hold the Winter Olympics.

    Ski royalty: The 1936 Games

    You’ll see too the winners from those Games adorning walls in bar/restaurants.

    And wonder too about whether you could leap off ski jumps as you pass by the village jump.

    Gorge on the Gorge

    Watch your step: The Gorge

    For those who like the depths as well as the heights then Garmisch-Partenchirken has the Garganta de Partnach.

    A natural monument for 110 years, the gorge i2,303 ft long and, in places, over 260 ft deep and there is constant running water.

    So go before you enter… and I’m talking to you President Biden.

    Better than the bike: Joe Biden

    Partnach Gorge advise though not to visit until after Tuesday because of the G7.

    While the G7 leaders live it up in Schloss Elmau you can economise.

    By staying in a small double room at the Olympiahaus for £84, say overnight on October 3.