Holy smoke all eyes are on a Roman chimney this week for the announcement of a new Pope and it is a spectacle like no other.
Easter pilgrims to La Citta Eterna are now at the heart of an old a sacred mystery which transfixes us even in our consumerist world.
And thanks to the Hollywood blockbuster Conclave more of us have a handle on what might happen.
Behind the closed doors of the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican.
That 120 cardinals have the chapel themselves is how it should be allowing the grand old room to breathe.
Free from the jostling of Instaholics ambivalent to the signs telling visitors not to take photographs of Michelangelo’s ceiling.
And blasé about God Almighty himself pointing down at all who come before him.
Lovely Jubilee
Pilgrims come in all shapes and sizes from the four corners of the world as they have done for 2,000 years.
And the draw of being a part of history will bring thousands more to St Peter’s Square.
Clogging the airports and alas bringing the unholy spectacle of hotels hiking their prices.
For holy tourists, and 2025 being a Jubilee Year has only heightened the demand, having your billet booked is a blessed relief.
All roads lead to Rome
But for those rushing to travel agents and their sites perhaps it is worth heading for other Italian destinations.
And driving, letting the train take the strain or even walking into Rome on the Via Francigena.
From Assisi, particularly poignant as it is named for St Francis himself.
Of course, you can join the Way at any point and this pilgrim began his journey 100kms north of Rome in Viterbo in Lazio.
The closest you can start your pilgrimage to earn a certificate in St Peter’s Square as a pilgrim.
To go alongside your Camino from north-west Spain.
Travestere travel
Of course, any pilgrim starting out now will feel like they’re in a race against time before the white smoke appears.
Although the election of a new pope can take months even if recent pontiffs have been named within days or a week.
When in Rome, of course, we’d do what Roman regular visitors do and head for the budget Travestere neighbourhood.
Within walking distance of the Vatican State and with its own more reasonable trattorias.
Should you be on your way to Rome Godspeed.
And know too that you will be walking in the shoes of the fisherman.
And be able to share the awe of it all and to exhale to your fellow pilgrims at the decisive moment or aa you wait.
Holy smoke all eyes are on a Roman chimney.