Countries, Flying, UK

The Loch Ness MonstAer

And to mark the Irish national airline carrier’s opening of a new route to the capital of the Scottish Highlands we trust some will claim that they have seen the Loch Ness MonstAer.

Only there is no such creature, and there I’ve said it, although there are no shortage of fluffy merch toys.

As we found out on a visit to the Loch Ness Centre where the Son and Heir left the glove puppet soothing toy he carried everywhere.

Among all the other Nessies.

Of course, you’d be forgiven for thinking that it was the fabled Loch Ness Monster which put Inverness and its environs on the tourist map.

When, in fact, word of the beauty of the Scottish Highlands had long been known.

From forays from friend and foe alike over the century.

With no less a chronicler than Samuel Johnson waxing lyrical about its beauties on his 1775 A Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland.

Walking in Boswell and Johnson’s footsteps

Witchcraft: Macbeth country

Johnson commented on the diction of the Invernessians, to this day praised as close to ‘Queen’s English.’

Saying ‘The soldiers seem to have incorporated afterwards with the inhabitants.

‘And to have peopled the place with an English race.

‘For the language of this town has been long considered as peculiarly elegant.’

Johnson and Boswell were much taken by Inverness Castle, reputed home of Macbeth, and a particular fort nearby.

‘It was no very capacious edifice, but stands upon a rock so high and steep, that I think it was once not accessible.

‘But by the help of ladders, or a bridge.

‘Over against it, on another hill, was a fort built by Cromwell, now totally demolished.

‘For no faction of Scotland loved the name of Cromwell, or had any desire to continue his memory.’

All of which will be music to newbie Irish visitors to Inverness.

With the famously warty religious zealot no friend of our Celtic cousins either.

When we got our Erse kicked

Castle in the Aer: Inverness Castle down below

Today’s Inverness Castle may be different than the one B&J visited but you’ll still be able to take in the atmosphere on your visit.

Johnson goes somewhat off track though here.

With the kind of demeaning and belittling descriptions of the Invernessians which would have him cancelled today.

Although he helpfully reminds us that the Highlands and Islands is the home of the Gaelic or Erse language.

And stop giggling there at the back.

‘There is I think a kirk, in which only the Erse language is used, he notes.

‘There is likewise an English chapel, but meanly built, where on Sunday we saw a very decent congregation.’

Go West

Spooky: Traitors Castle

B&J seemingly don’t linger in Inverness, preferring to get on their journey to the remote Hebrides.

Saying: ‘At Inverness we procured three horses for ourselves and a servant, and one more for our baggage, which was no very heavy load.

‘We found in the course of our journey the convenience of having disencumbered ourselves, by laying aside whatever we could spare.

‘For it is not to be imagined without experience, how in climbing crags, and treading bogs.

‘And winding through narrow and obstructed passages, a little bulk will hinder, and a little weight will burthen.’

Bonnie Prince Charlie’s last stand

Battle weary: Charlie at Culloden

Why B&J chose not to visit the site of the last battle on British soil, at nearby Culloden in 1746, we never learn.

Although it might still have been too raw.

But you can, and learn about the fate of Bonnie Prince Charlie, and how he too fled to the Western Isles.

Or the Jacobite Train, or Hogwarts Express over Glenfinnan Viaduct.

Full steam ahead: Hogwarts Express

Or why they missed too the Clava Cairns,  prehistoric burial site.

And the site of The Traitors UK castle at Ardross.

We’ll give them a pass on not knowing about the Victorian Market.

Or Scotland’s second-oldest bookshop and old church, Leakey’s.

Or not heading out to Chanonry Point on the Black Isle for dolphin watching.

And they actually do exist.

Take the Aer

Follow the shamrock; Aer Lingus

Aer Lingus’s Inverness route will commence from 21 May.

With the new service operating twice weekly on Thursdays and Sundays.

We found a sample return fare in May from €22.62. 

Countries, UK

Inverness, the UK’s happiest city

Well, our most famous prehistoric mammal has never seen the need to move from Inverness, the UK’s happiest city, nor why should she.

The capital of the Highlands has long enchanted visitors from across the island and the north-eastern tip of Ireland.

Lighting up: Inverness

Since the days James Boswell was bagman for writer Samuel Johnson on their trip around Scotland in the late 18th century up to the current day.

Not that the peripatetic pair ever witnessed The Loch Ness Monster.

And Bozzy would certainly have chronicled coming across Nessie as he did everything else.

Glove is all around

Loch who’s hiding? Nessie is out there

Were the Loch Ness Centre there when they came a-visiting they wouldn’t have been able to move for Nessies.

As we found when we visited with our own wee monster clinging for life to his glove puppet Nessie.

Which, of course, he put down on the table where they were selling… Nessie puppets.

So what is it about Inverness that put it top of the hospitality agency Accor as the UK’s leading location for happiness following the rise of the “soft living” trend?

And beating the likes of Oxford, Cambridge and Carlisle into the bargain.

Going on Office the National Statistics’ (ONS) personal well-being survey data from the last five years Inverness came out on top with a score of 7.83 out of 10.

Culloden and all that

A right Charlie: At Culloden

Our guides flag up Inverness Castle, dating back to 1057 and Inverness Cathedral, the most northerly Anglican Cathedral in the UK.

While there’s a vibrant foodie scenes at Michelin-recognised Rocpool and The Mustard Seed Restaurant and River House.

And as Bozzie and Johners found out on their travels the Highlanders have forgiven the outsiders who quelled their attempt at taking over Britain under Bonnie Prince Charlie.

And who were put to the sword at the Battle of Culloden, the last pitched battle on the island, back in 1746.

All that welcoming, forgiving spirit must be something in the air around those parts making Inverness, the UK’s happiest city.

 

 

 

Countries, UK

Looking for Nessie

It was needle in the haystack time with all those glove toys on the one table… we were looking for Nessie.

Or more specifically the Son and Heir’s personal Nessie.

He had brought it in with him and helpfully put down on the table!

With all the other Nessies.

Of course those who question the existence of Nessie obviously have never been to Scotland.

And certainly not his home in Loch Ness, near Inverness in the Highlands.

Where the sea monster is in every shop window.

Loch at us now

The Loch Ness Centre will have gone through many a refurb since we visited the Highlands way back then.

Yes, even after our repatriation to Scotland a couple of years ago.

The latest iteration of the base has been at a £1.5m cost and comes with a brand new tour.

Columba’s cross

The Loch Ness Centre tracks Nessie’s 1,500-year history which we can trace back to Saint Columba of Iona, no less.

Or more accurately Irish author’s Adomnán’s Life of St Columba who regales us with how St Columba combatted the monster.

And told Nessie to leave his follower Luigne moccu Min who was swimming in the River Ness alone.

‘Go no further. Do not touch the man. Go back at once,” Col exhorted, with his sign of the cross doing the trick.

The saint had clearly scared the bejaysus out of Nessie because there were no further sightings of Nessie until the 1870s.

Nessiemania

Scooby doobie do: How are you?

While there was a spate of finds in the Thirties with Hugh Gray’s 1933 photo credited with the start of Nessiemania.

Which has seen 11 films either about Nessie or with references to her or with her as the central character.

With Scooby-Doo even getting in on the act.

And even that confounded the Mystery Machine Mob with Velma accepting that ‘maybe some mysteries are best left unsolved.’

Today’s Loch Ness Centre is in the location of the the old Drumnadrochit Hotel where Mrs Aldie MacKay reported seeing a ‘whale-like fish’ or ‘water beast’ in the waters of Loch Ness.

Plain cruising

In the deep: Loch Ness Centre, Drumnadrochit

Of course what we all want to do is get out on the water and the Loch Ness Centre have a man who knows it like the back of his hand.

Captain Alistair Matheson will take you out on his vessel, Deepscan, named after the 1987 Operation Deepscan expedition of the loch.

You and your other 11 guests will take a journey through the past 40 years of scientific research.

And while you’re scanning the waters for Nessie, you’ll always have the breathtaking beauty of Urquhart Castle in your sights.

Standard tickets for the one-hour immersive tour at Loch Ness Centre is £13.95 for adults and £10.95 for children.

For the one-hour cruise it is £216 for the dozen of you, £19 per adult and £16.95 for children.

And seeing you’re asking, no I’ve got no more a Scooby than Velma, but we’ll be back, looking for Nessie.

One hump or two? The Loch Ness Lodge Hotel

Loch Ness is a half-hour’s drive from Inverness which can be reached by air from major airports.

Stay at the Loch Ness Lodge Hotel for £127.30 for a standard twin for two for the night.