Caribbean, Countries

Haiti and Scotland a game of two halfs

And it is the luck of the World Cup draw which has brought us together but on one level Haiti and Scotland are a game of two halfs.

On account of the two nations being among the very few nations that are halves of an island.

In Scotland’s case it has been our fate to share our rock with England and Wales and Haiti’s to be locked on Hispaniola with the Dominican Republic.

With both Scotland and Haiti each the poorer relation.

Not though that either of us should hide our lights under a bushel.

And for readers of this here Bandanaman will be well familiar with the charms of this jutty bit of Britain through my scribblings.

But perhaps less so of Haiti.

Well. let us put that right and our perception of it as crime-ridden and destitute.

When it is a beacon for the freedoms of small nations as the first country formed from a slaves revolt ion 1804.

Haitians lead the way

Grab a chair: Women at a Vodou ceremony. Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

The Haitians and the Dominicans had a couple of gos at ruling together but have been going it alone since 1859.

Now, worryingly for Scotland who face the Haitians in Boston next Sunday at 2am, they are something of good form.

Having beaten New Zealand 4-0 in a friendly.

While they may just have a trick up their sleeve which would make football’s most recent Spygate look more like a vicar’s tea party.

Vodou child

Take it as red: Vodou Ceremony elder. Photo: Pierre Michel Jean

We refer, of course, to Vodou, a Haitian religion, which is voodoo to you and me.

And if that conjures up images of dolls of Scotland’s star footie players Shankland, McTominay, McGinn and Robertson being stabbed with pins.

Then you’ve probably been watching too many horror, or old James Bond, films.

Our friends in Haiti have helfpully given us the lowdown on how to fit in at a Vodou festival.

And recommend to attend a Rada dance (or dans).

Not least because you’re less likely to see animal sacrifice.

We fancy a springtime dans, as something unthreatening.

Held to usher in a season of abundant harvest, good luck and good health.

And the Rada dance for Erzulie Freda, the goddess of love and sensuality looks up our rue.

Or La Sirène, the mermaid goddess of good luck, fertility and material abundance.

And, of course, there’s rum

A rum do: Keep the drummers sated. PhotoL Franck Fontan

We’re advised too to bring an offering, preferably a litre, or half gallon of unrefined rum, called kleren for the drummers.

And don’t be put off if some in the congregation go into a trance.

Now if all this has piqued your interest.

Or you just want to show off when the match is on, then here’s where you can find out more about Haiti.

Haiti’s National Museum in Port-au-Prince where you’ll find the oldest, most historic Vodou drums – some dating back to the 1500s.

The Musée du Panthéon National Haïtien is on the Champs de Mars Boulevard .

And features artefacts from  the revolution, and the tools they used to found modern Haitian culture.

While the Bureau of Ethnology is a museum dedicated entirely to Haitian Vodou.

How to get there

Vodou spirit: Ren Kongo. Photo: Verdy Verna

The good news is that Haiti and the Haitians are welcoming and there are lots of ways to get there.

Air France will fly you from Europe, while there are direct flights from the US.

A return flight from Florida starts at about $250m a roundtrip from New York will set you back about $400.

While a round trip from London is about $850.

Or you can to take a short flight from the Dom Rep.

Or to hop on to one of the many tourist bus companies such as Terra Bus.

 

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