Countries, Culture, Deals, Europe

Apocalypse then… Bayeux’s oui cousin

And if you want to get away from the tapestry rabble in London then just slip away to Angers for Apocalypse then… Bayeux’s oui cousin.

The Tapestry of the Apocalypse has less of a cut-through, of course, than Bayeux but it is bigger news.

At 103 metres, the longest in the world and 30 metres further than William of Normandy’s story.

Sew 14th Century

Sword of truth: The Apocalypse Tapestry

So let’s start at the very beginning, it’s a very good place to start… with sew, a needle pulling thread.

And the ambitious Duke of Anjou, brother of the King of France, Charles V, in the 14th century.

With apologists for the duke playing that age-old trick of setting his story in history, that of St John’s last book of the Bible.

To talk about his own political times.

With, naturellement, all those characters that still fascinate us today and make up the tapestry of the lives we amplify.

Dragons, angels, demons, fortified towns, mysterious women and knights.

And, of course, this being Normandy, the English don’t get a pass.

With references to the English enemy, this being the middle of the Hundred Years’ War.

A real curtain-raiser

Doggone it: Strange goings-on

Now Bibliophiles among you and certainly those with the stomach for St John’s Apocalypse will certainly point out.

That the story is incomplete.

But it has had quite the journey, like us.

Bequeathed to Angers Cathedral, it was then transformed into covers.

And it was used to protect orange trees or curtain linings.

Prepping for the Apocalypse

Imposing: The chateau

Now our Angers amis promise us the Apocalypse interpretation route as if you were there.

Or L’Apocalypse comme si vous y étiez, which d’accord we know you know it as.

Through six rooms and seven centuries, meet the creators of the tapestry, consider the secrets of its making and message.

And go back in time to the Middle Ages.

With videos, games, sound and touch devices.

Costumes to try on and even Playmobil diaporamas (no, we’ll have to learn that too).

All the world to us

Bridging the gap: Of history

The tapestry is housed in the 14-tower medieval fortress of Château des Ducs d’Anjou (Castle of the Dukes of Anjou),

All impressive enough but even more as UNESCO has included it among the pantheon of great documents of history.

The Memory of the World Register which boasts.

The Declaration of the Rights of Man and the Citizen, the Appeal of 18 June 1940 of General de Gaulle and films of the Lumière brothers among others.

Now our Medieval forefathers and mothers didn’t have the advantage of high-speed, not their fault.

And we dare say Leonardo Da Vinci was working on it.

But we do and our go-to site Omio flag up £9 tickets from Paris.

 

 

America, Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

Passport for Pocohontas on the John Smith Trail

And as I train on for the Camino next week I’m leaving stamps on my passport for Pocohontas on the John Smith Trail for a next trek.

Pocohontas, as we don’t have to tell you, is twice blessed in the sacred Rotunda in the US Capitol in Washington DC.

We’re concentrating here on the stone relief sculpture above the doorway.

Titled The Preservation of Captain Smith by Pocahontas by Antonio Capellano.

Captain Smith and Pocohontas which you’ll know from your Disney are inextricably linked.

At home with Pocahontas

On set: The John Smith Trail

As they are on the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail.

The 3,000-mile trek through five states and the District of Colombia.

For Pocohontas fans Machicomoco State Park along the York river and Gloucester County Visitor Center are your touch points.

Face of the tribes: Pocohontas

With Werowocomoco, where Pocohontas grew up, alas closed off for just now from us.

While the The National Park Service works through with Virginia’s First Nations how to shape the site.

With Werowocomoco holding truths about Native American societies in the Chesapeake stretching back thousands of years.

A tale of two Johns

A page out of history: Werowocomoco

The John Smith Trail is the authentic way through pre-American history.

In much the same way as the 216-mile John Muir Trail is in California.

You may be more familiar with the Father of the National Parks’ 134-mile coast to coast trek in his native Scotland.

Big hand: For John Muir in his native Dunbar

Now whichever trek you set out on remember to take your passport with you.

Yes, of course, that document that will let you through the security gate but also trail passports.

Where you collect stamps as a memento of your odyssey.

Stamp your authority

Jimmy: On the Camino in Galicia

I’ll be on my second Camino passport but a Portuguese Way one to go with my Camino Frances.

While I also have a Via Francigena from my journeys in Italy.

All of which reminds me that I have to update my Big passport for next year and get my Irish one too, like the Daughterie.

The Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail has 43 unique stamps,

And like all trails the first journey always has a first step.

 

Countries, Deals, Europe

Ten years of the real House of Dragons

Consigned as I am to live in ‘Winterfell’, and as a dracophile, I clearly want to mark ten years of the real House of Dragons.

No, not Daenerys Targaryen, who as my own Queen of Dragons reliably informs me is also to be feared.

But the real House of Dragons as those keen-eyed among you will have noted is Postojna Cave in Slovenia.

Which is, of course, one of the world’s best-known karst caves.

Where we only got to watch the development of the olm in real time.

From the first eggs, embryos and larvae hatching to their transformation into playful little baby olms.

Aw, they do grow up so fast

Queen of the Dragons: And her liege

This year, ‘the baby dragons’ from the 2016 olm brood are turning ten.

And our Postojna pals are giving us an insight into how they live today and the interesting developmental stage
they are about to enter…

And whether dragon adolescence is anything like ours.

The very first olm was discovered right enough, in Postojna, in 1797.

The shy olms had, in truth, probably been around for 14 million years ago moving from the surface into the permanent darkness of subterranean waters.

Now instead of vision, which is unnecessary in darkness, the olm has developed a range of highly specialised senses.

Food for thought

Something is down there: Our olms

It has an excellent sense of smell, taste and hearing, and can detect vibrations in the water.

And sense weak electric fields produced by other animals and orient itself using the Earth’s magnetic field.

And therefore locate its prey, such as small crustaceans, snails, worms and insects.

Its survival strategy in an environment where food is very scarce includes an extremely slow
metabolism, a low heart rate, and minimal movement.

And doesn’t that sound the life?

This one’s got legs

Slithering about: The olms are on the move

And there’s more…

The olm can live for more than 100 years and can reproduce even at an advanced age.

And because of its slow metabolism it can survive for several years without food, maybe not like a human adolescent then.

While here’s where it gets even more interesting.

They can regenerate damaged limbs and organs, blood vessels, the heart and even parts of
the brain.

And how do we know? Well, here’s where little Viktor comes in, handy,

Still of the night: And we’re in their world

Viktor like most kids likes a scrap and hurt and lost part of his leg in a fight with two other olms. 

But like the Monty Python knight, he shook it off as a flesh wound.

Because he knew that within just a year he would have grown back a fully functional limb.

Now if you think all of this is dragon on a bit and you want to see Viktor for yourself. 

We found round-trip flights for random dates in October to Ljubljna from under £200 with EasyJet because unlike dragons, we can’t fly for ourselves. 

Countries, Deals, Europe, Skiing

Ski TV… and La Plagne’s plans

And we just had to mark Ski TV… and La Plagne’s plans.

The winding up of the iconic BBC Ski Sunday show resonates particularly with Gen X.

Those like us, born in the Sixties and who were first drawn.

To those Incredible Snowmen Franz Klammer and Ingemar Stenmark, as they flew down the Alps in the Olympics.

And who we got to see every Sabbath for ourselves when David Vine brought it to our screens in 1978.

Now the British state broadcaster, in their own wisdom, have decided to pull our weekly diet of snow sports.

Leaving us to wait for the Winter Olympics in 2030 for our fix. 

Looking up

Walk this way: La Plagne pastimes

And it’s our good fortune that we’re in safe hands skiing in La Plagne.

Now, of course, we’ll be blessed with getting to see the world’s best practitioners of the slopes.

In the blue-ribband events at the Olympics.

But in a throwback to our younger days the French Alpine resort is also bringing back a favorite of TV viewers on the continent.

And one which we regret that we didn’t see over on this island.

Where the only snow on our peaks is the northern forgotten bit of this island.

Probably just as well judging by Britain’s record in its companion show Jeux sans frontières .

Or in time-honored British tradition, translated into English, as It’s A Knockout.

Let these Games begin

Tow the line: Interneige in full swing

 

Well, we will be treated to a new iteration of Interneige, born in 1965, a great year, and held in 1966 in La Plagne.

And but yes, we’ll want you to watch this space to see what they’ve got in store.

And if we’ll see a revival of events such as…

The Hare and the Tortoise, or the Hare and the Tortoise, The Grasshopper and the Ant.

And then there’s The Frog Who Wanted to Be as Big as the Ox.

Which we don’t have to tell you is The Frog that wishes to be as big as The Ox.

Throughout the seasons, there were numerous events, all culminating in Les slaloms parallèles pour le Fil rouge.

Hats off to La Plagne

High hats: Interneige fun

And interspersing it all is that ubiquitous Plagne red bobble-hat which celebrates its 60th birthday this winter.

Born in a black and white TV age In 1966, La Plagne needed a simple logo that viewers could instantly recognise.

The Red Hat is getting a makeover for 2026.

It will change hats, acquire different expressions and become animated as part of La Plagne’s new visual identity.

Make a plan for La Plagne

Snow people: Life in La Plagne

La Plagne is a 150-minute drive from three main airports, Geneva, Grenoble, and Lyon.

Either hire a car from the airport, book one of the transfer companies or take the bus.

Alternatively let the train take the strain.

Eurostar Snow train offers rail service from London St Pancras International to the Aime-la-Plagne (with a change at Lille).

Trains depart London St Pancras International on Saturdays and return to London on Sundays.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Countries, Culture, Europe

Make a tourism killing from the Fjords to Guadeloupe

And as next big Nordic noir thing Randi Fuglehaug popularises Norway we explore where they make a tourism killing from the Fjords to Guadeloupe.

Now you probably know Randi from her young adult Netflix series Royalteen.

But you’ll soon be acquainted with her and her and her detective Agnes Tveit’s stomping ground of Voss in west Norway.

Normally a sleepy mountain town close to Norway’s Hardanger region Randi ramps it up.

With murders around an extreme-sports week and a sheep’s-head feast Ekstremsportveko, jazz festival Vossa Jazz and food fest Smalahovesleppet.

All standard settings for crime writers and a tourist board’s dream for promoting their region.

Elementary detective setting

Fact or fiction: 221b Baker Street

We have, of course, seen Guadeloupe given the tourism treatment as the site of many a murder in Death in Paradise.

While here on this island and the rocks off it there is no shortage of murder capitals.

The actual English and British one where Sherlock Holmes’ fictional abode 221b Baker Street is a popular tourist spot.

While as far north as you can be in the Shetland Islands you can walk in Jimmy Perez and Ruth Calder’s footsteps.

C’est murder

A new Jersey: Modern Bergerac

While way south, almost France really you can soak up Bergerac’s Jersey.

Why not walk the rues of Paris and the Quai des Orfèvres, the historic police headquarters of Inspector Maigret?

Back on Holmes, you can pay homage to the Scots author in his hometown of Edinburgh.

And at the Conan Doyle boozer in the New Town.

And the scene of Holmes and Moriarty’s set-to at the Reichenbach Falls in Switzerland.

Wallander to Marlowe

Bright lights: Wallander in Sweden

Back in the frozen north you can visit Wallander’s favorite haunt, Fridolfs Konditori in Sweden and order a Wallander pastry.

While Istanbul, the crossroads of Europe and Asia is an obvious setting for detectives.

From Hercule Poirot on the Orient Express to today’s Turkish Detective.

And in America my uncle would dine out on when Kojak was shot in his Pirate’s Cove pub in Manhattan.

While if it’s old Californian tec vibes you want.

Then San Francisco is an enduring character for Sam Spade and Los Angeles for Philip Marlowe.

The fourth book in the Agnes Tveit set will be out early next year.

And it is set during a local football tournament.

Countries, Deals, Europe

Cani-hiking in Avoriaz

Munro bagger supreme Jimmy thinks nothing of climbing hills with his dog so cani-hiking in Avoriaz will be right up son mont.

Now granted the Pentland Hills which frame Edinburgh aren’t, or would ever claim to be, the French Alps.

See you Jimmy: With Jimmy, far left at Dunbar’s finest 

But fear not you won’t have to haul, or be dragged by, Fido up the slope.

You’ll be equipped instead with a waist belt and elastic lead.

And Fido will gently pull you along and set the pace so you can enjoy the scenery.

Dog days

Bark to nature: With your Northern dogs

The experience lasts around an hour and a half and includes a break for refreshments for you and your dog.

And the chance to take photos with them.

Suitable for adults and children aged 10 and over, cani-hiking takes place in the late afternoon or evening.

To keep the dogs comfortable during the warmer months.

Available daily from June 25 to 29 August, so it’ll be a case of pencilling it in for next year.

The experience will cost you €30/£26pp.

Taking the lead

Get out for a stretch: No shortage of routes

Plenty of time then for you to get into training.

Although heads and paws up here, you will be provided with a dog, a northern dog… think huskies.

Now you’ll want to know where is best to stay around Avoriaz.

Your residence awaits

Room with a view: Your Avoriaz vista

And we’ve been pointed to Résidence Pierre & Vacances Saskia Falaise for a seven-night stay.

Arriving 28 August and priced from £312 for a self-catered stay in an apartment sleeping up to four people.

Brighten up your day: Snazzy interior

With flights and transfers extra. 

All of which we imagine are similar for next year.

 

 

Countries, Cruising, Deals, Europe, Ships

Taking the dragon on a cruise

Yes, our friends at MSC have opened themselves up to hackneyed gags about taking the dragon on a cruise.

Only this is Asia where the dragon is venerated.

And MSC passengers should be fired up by the unveiling of a spectacular 12-metre sculpture.

Aboard its newest flagship, MSC World Asia, ahead of its launch in December.

Suspended 10 metres above the outdoor promenade, Dragon features nearly 700 mirrors and more than 3,000 LED lights.

Bright lights

Spell it out: And dragon on board

Now MSC are known for being the bright lights of cruising.

With their iconic sparkling staircases and tens of thousands of genuine Swarovski crystals.

Now we don’t have to wait long to see the new feature for ourselves.

Dip in: And water everywhere on a ship

With MSC World Asia beginning its seven-night Mediterranean sailings from December 4.

A sample seven-nightMediterranean sailing from Genoa aboard MSC World Asia is available from €769pp.

Columbus crew

Now you’ll leave from Christopher Columbus‘s homestead for Civitavecchia, the port of Rome.

Messina (Taormina) is your next stop for all things Sicilian.

Before you take in the harbour of delights that is Valletta in Malta.

And then a day at sea with on board activities.

Before you disembark in Barcelona and if you think that Columbus has been following you.

Well, there he is in Las Ramblas pointing you to the New Word… and your next trip?

Before cornering for Marseille and back to Columbustown in Genova and home.

 

 
 
 
 
Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

Portustroll in shoulder-season

It’s a step change all right putting off a summer getaway for a Portustroll in shoulder-season.

But shoulder season, or autumn travel away from the burning summer heat, is this year’s travel trend.

And because we’re always ahead of the curve we’re lacing up our walking boots next month on the Portuguese Way for our Camino.

But more of that later we’ve got to get a shift on here to tell you of the walks you can enjoy this shoulder season.

The shoulder season in Portugal, the geographical shoulder of Europe.

Shoulder to shoulder with its Iberian neighbour Spain.

Bordering on the meticulous

Water way to go: Take in the surroundings

The charms of Alcoutim: The longest continuous border in Europe, dating back to 1297, gives the gentle stroller the chance to straddle two ancient nations.

You’ll start and finish your 4.6km walk in the Praça da República (Square of Republic).

The trail takes walkers through the border city of Alcoutim.

And reveals iconic landmarks, the Castle of Alcoutim, the ruins of the Old Castle, the Praia Fluvial, and the River Guadiana landscapes.

There is also the chance to cross over to the other side of the river and visit the Spanish town of Sanlúcar del Guadiana.

Stroll to the beach

Beloved: Amado Beach

Rota Vicentina Circular routes Amado (Rated: Moderate): OK, you start and finish at the Amado beach on this moderate 7.75km walk but you get the picture.

And you get to wash your feet in the Atlantic swell at the end on the beach which incidentally is Portuguese for beloved.

This coastal trail offers a blend of wildlife, rare flora and fascinating geology.

Hikers can spot native birds and wildlife, admire globally rare cliff-top plants, and explore landscapes shaped over 300 million years ago.

Hot foot in the Algarve

Coast with the most: Vila do Bispo

Rota Vicentina Historical Way Carrapateira – Vila do Bispo: And one for those British sitcom friends and you might not BELIEVE it.

But our Portuguese pals call this route 21.4km moderate. 

You’ll start your journey at Largo do Comércio, Carrapateira and end, and say a prayer, next to the main church in Vila do Bispo

And, of course, the Algarve will show many of its dramatic landscapes, where rugged mountains meet the coast.

Along the way, hikers can spot native flora, protected temporary ponds.

And a variety of wildlife, including rare birdlife and the endemic Triops vicentinus, an indigenous prehistoric tadpole shrimp.

All of which conjures up all that lovely seafood to keep you going on your travels.

Walk this way

Bridge the gap: Peaceful Alte

Section 7 of the Via Algarviana Salir–Alte: And because we like a challenge, this, the seventh section of the Via Algarviana, is calling us.

You’ll start your 16.4km odyssey in the square next to the Mother Church of Salir.

And finish in the Fontes de Alte Natural Springs.

Now the terrain is rural paths, traditional villages, and farmland that reflect the region’s agricultural heritage.

Along the way, walkers can admire old stone walls, water wheels.

And the impressive Rocha da Pena Protected Landscape, renowned for its rich biodiversity and local legends.

The route continues through the picturesque village of Benafim.

Before following the peaceful Ribeira de Alte to the scenic Fontes Grande and Pequena, ending in the charming village of Alte.

Walking season

On the road again: With your fellow walkers

Alternatively, visitors can visit the Algarve Walking Season website to find out about upcoming walking events.

And for a comprehensive guide to walking opportunities throughout the year in the Algarve.

Visitors can easily view the calendar of all walking festivals in the region, including their locations and key features.

It also provides regular updates on these festivals and walking-related news in the area.

 

Countries, Culture, Europe, Food & Wine

Taking that Van der Valk in Old Amsterdam

If you’re like us, and we know you are, you’ll be looking for clues when you’re taking that Van der Valk in Old Amsterdam.

Now one of Amsterdam’s 165 canals looks like any other to this old clogger.

But we are determined to spot ours and George and Amal’s favourite hotel, the Dylan Amsterdam.

Before this run of the detective series ends.

The best place to start is Piet and his pals’ watering hole.

Hamburger Amsterdam Angus

Take a seat: Piet’s place

The Café-Restaurant Scheltema near the Royal Palace in Dam Square.

Now far from it for us to tell the Dutch detective how to do his job or live his life.

But we reckon the rake-thin tec would be a little less surly with a good square meal.

And wonder why he and his pals are only ever seen drinking and never eating the de Langes’ sumptuous fare.

Of course, as Scots carnivores our eyes fixed on the Hamburger Black Angus at €17.75 and Steak Black Angus at €22.75.

Met spek, champignons & uien

For Piet’s sake: The two Piets

While one of our defaults is to plump for the restaurant-brand.

And Steak Scheltema at €25.75 comes met spek, champignons & uien.

Now for thrillseekers who like to go blind on a foreign menu then there’s always the Kapucijners at €18.75.

Or Kalfslever at €20.50. Both met spek en uien.

Now fat as a laughing Frans Hal cavalier and lubricated by Piet’s favourite Amstel lager.

Watch an Old Master

For art’s sake: The Night Watch in the square

You can check out, as Piet does in his investigations, the Rijksmuseum.

And check out how Rembrandt’s famous The Night Watch is a work in progress centuries after the Old Master put down his pen.

Following five years of research that began in 2019, the Rijksmuseum has launched a major restoration.

And they have carried out the work in full view of museum visitors. 

In among the canals

Modern art: The de Langes

Carrying on walking in Van der Valk’s footsteps you can’t, nor ever would want to avoid the Canal Belts.

A historic 14km network of waterways, known as the Grachtengordel.

Additional filming spots have included the Baruch Spinoza statue, the NDSM wharf and the Muziekgebouw concert hall.

Now back to scanning the scenes and trying to guess the killers as we vicariously enjoy awesome Amsterdam watching Van Der Valk.

 

Africa, Countries, Deals, Europe

Why everyone really wants to go to Ceuta

It’s this year’s must-visit destination with 60,000 clambering across the border… but here’s the real reason why everyone wants to go to Ceuta.

If you hadn’t heard of Ceuta before don’t worry, none of us had.

But truth is the Spanish enclave in Morocco has long been a day out for visitors to Fezland.

With a cursory glance at Get Your Guide opening up a host of attractions and activities for the city across the Gibraltar Strait.

Which despite being encircled by Morocco has been under Spanish rule since 1580.

Now you can reach Ceuta by land, by sea, by air and from either neighbouring Morocco or mainland Spain.

Boats and moats

With a paddle: The moat

Get Your Guide offers a new full-day Excursion to Cueta from Algeciras from £135pp.

You’ll ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar in the company of a licensed tour guide.

And lunch at a local restaurant, and a cruise tour on Europe’s only navigable moat.

And that will allow you to see the Royal Walls from a privileged perspective.

Visit the Casa de los Dragones which will doubtless appeal to Game of Thrones fans.

Breathtaking: Ceuta’s House of Dragons

Walk through the historic centre, get an selfie with Hercules, and discover the mix of Spanish and Moorish cultures.

Afterwards, you’ll enjoy lunch at a local restaurant where you can sample Ceuta’s cuisine.

Before free time to stroll through the city center, relax by the sea, or have a drink at the marina.

A Spanish stroll

At peace: Ceuta

Now the bonus of being an enclave is the accessibility to Morocco.

And your friendly excursion specialists offers a two-continent African trip with a dip into Morocco. And all for £154pp.

There are pickups available from Malaga and other cities along the Costa del Sol.

You and your guide will travel to Algeciras for the 45-minute ferry ride across the strait of Gibraltar.

You’ll arrive in Ceuta before passing through border control into Tetouan.

Moroccan roll: Tetouan

You’ll spend five hours in Tetouan with a guide and take in the old Jewish quarter of Mellah and Hassan II Square.

You will also visit the souk of Tetouan and the Medina of Tetouan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site… and shop til you drop.

Before you visit a Moroccan Berber farmhouse.

So, there you have it and now we get it, why everyone really wants to go to Ceuta.