Most of us still place it as Milan-Bergamo after its airport (actually it’s Il Caravaggio Orio al Serio International Airport), and this year we saw it as the Covid-19 gateway to Europe.
The pandemic hit Lombardy hard and early; the world watching in horror as its grip fastened last February and March – a preview of things to come.
Stay strong
It was a surreal light to shine on Bergamo, a medieval city in the Alpine foothills.
Suddenly portrayed not as a bustling cultural and historical hub, but through rolling television coverage.
Of empty cobbled streets, eerie churches and boarded shutters.
Medieval Bergamo
A sweeping landscape
Bergamo boasts rich galleries with works by Titian, Botticelli and Canaletto.
We know its Champions League football team, Atalanta.
It celebrates composer Gaetano Donizetti in its annual international opera festival.
And it has architectural dedications to revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi.
The cobbled stones of the old city
Bergamo is known as the Citta dei Mille after 1,000 of its citizens marched on Rome and helped unify Italy in the 19th century.
This year, tourists vanished and a different type of visitor descended.
International news teams flocking to the Papa Giovanni XXIII Hospital, named for another famous son.
Snapshot of Bergamo in the pandemic
But there is light at the end of the tunnel, as many of those who travelled to report on distress, only to find success, have discovered.
As Christophe Sanchez, CEO of Visit Bergamo, said: “Because of the situation we have been through, Bergamo is now the safest town in Europe.”
Visitors it is true, have not always been kind to Bergamo.
But Bergamo is kind to its visitors, particularly those who stay a while.
Owed to Autumn
The Autumn poplar trees
Visiting this autumn, I found the streets, which were desolate in March when everyone was locked away behind their shutters, alive again six months later.
Citizens mingled, talking at breakneck speed behind their masks and, of course, con le mani (with their hands).
Ice cream heaven
They spoke, of course, of the second wave that has now come to pass, and the closure of restaurants, cafes, shops and museums. But also calcio e cibo… football and food.
And whatever it is that a gathering of young Bergamaschi always chat about in loud decibels outside your hotel bedroom window at midnight.
My visit gave me a glimpse into the everyday life of the Bergamaschi – not as victims, although there have been far too many of them, but survivors.
A picture of our times
The testing centre
An exhibition of photographs in the piazza captured the past year.
A masked priest administered Mass; doctors and nurses cared for the sick and dying, and a father cradled his new-born son.
But the Bergamaschi, queuing at the open-air testing centre, knew that the worst had passed and what they were now having to endure is temporary.
They had been here before and prevailed – with a little help from God.
Bergamo is split into old and new towns, Citta Alta (high town) and Citta Bassa (low town).
The best way to reach the walled and cobbled Citta Alta is by funicular.
It takes you into the centre of things, Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe (market of the shoes), and to that staple of any old Italian town, an Irish pub, Tucans.
Take me to Church
Stories for the Masses
For the real beating heart of Bergamo, though, I went to Piazza del Duomo – which houses Bergamo Cathedral and the Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore.
Here, the Bergamaschi congregation of old could follow redemptive tales of the parting of the Red Sea, David and Goliath and Noah and the Deluge on wooden engravings.
Forza Atalanta
Deliverance was as much a part of Medieval life as it had been in Biblical times.
And when Our Lady finally spared the Bergamaschi any more suffering from the Plague in the 12th century they built this basilica to her.
Of course, all of this speaks to us in 2020 louder than ever.
Good neighbours
They’ll make a statue of me
Matteo, my Visit Bergamo guide, recalled the only sounds back in March when the city was in quarantine – the sirens of ambulances and the whirring of helicopters.
He told me of a citizen stuck in his house with his Covid-hit ageing father, unable to get help.
When he saw a report of a man who had died in the nearby town of Brescia, leaving behind a half-tank of unused oxygen.
He made his way to Brescia, found the house, asked and was given the tank, although, alas, he could not save his father.
Everything in the garden is getting rosier again
Every Bergamasque has a story of loss and suffering but for Matteo, the best response is a return to the life they know and love.
For Italians that means their famous five-course meals.
Food for thought
And there are lots more courses to come
The centrepiece of which at the Trattoria Sant’Ambroeus in Citta Alta is their special ravioli, casoncelli dei sant ambroeus.
Stuffed pasta with sausage, breadcrumbs, parsley, eggs and garlic and cheese…
All washed down with the best Valcalepio rosso Riserva doc Tenuta Castello di Grumello del Monte.
I sauntered to the city walls and La Marianna for their signature milky scoop of ice cream heaven, stracciatella.
Plenty polenta
And, of course, for Lombardy that was only lunch. Dinner in the roof garden of the plush Excelsior San Marco Hotel in Citta Bassa brought five more courses.
In future, those bustling crowds will return.
But that night, the restaurant was an encouraging two-thirds occupancy with social distancing in place.
And even a puppy at the next table enjoyed himself and heeded the rules.
Bergamo currently sits in the yellow zone, the lowest of the three tiers Italy has been applying since early November.
This means restaurants and bars open till 6pm, shops are open, ski resorts / pools / gym / museums closed, people can move freely. The other zones are red (strictest) and orange (medium).
Travel into Bergamo
involves providing the results of a negative Covid test taken within 72 hours of arrival.
Or you can get an airport test on arrival and quarantine for 48 hours while waiting for the results.
Any travellers will currently need to self-isolate on return..
And the first Black Friday had nothing to do with shopping and everything to do with sheeping.
The Scottish Highlanders were only 128 miles from London on Friday, December 6, 1745, when they decided to turn their army around and head back to their sheep.
It was an ill-fated retreat and their English pursuers caught up with them at Culloden, near Inverness, on April 16, and smote them, a thing they did then and very sore.
These days the only injuries you’ll pick up are sore shins in the shopping rush, although this year it’ll be ‘digital finger’.
Your favourite Travel blogger is always happy to take one for the team so here’s my round-up.
Flyday Friday
And it’s not just off-the-rail fashion or white goods that are Black Friday regulars… we all love our airline giveaways too.
Ireland’s national airline Aer Lingus carrier have a headline offer of €100 off for a family of four bringing two checked bags to Gran Canaria in May.
While also flagging up plenty of other sun spots from which to choose.
Ryanair pride themselves on giving more away more often and are championing ‘Every Friday is Black Friday.’
Friday cruiseday
And our floating hotel firms are all about the sails.
Princess Cruises are offering deals with peak season sailings from €769pp through November 30.
They have 14 UK-based voyages from seven to 14 nights, departing between May and October.
Eleven of those voyages will travel round-trip from Southampton to destinations across northern Europe (maybe taking in here), the Med (and this) and the Canary Islands (us too).
The 3,560 guest Regal Princess will be based in the UK from April to October 30.
Fares start at €769pp for a seven-night cruise during peak season and €1209pp for a 14-night cruise.
And they are recommending booking a cruise this weekend and get up to $400 onboard credit and save up to $150 instantly.
And why wait? Because this is what you get and here too.
Friday skiday
Slope off to the mountains, where there’s plenty of social distancing, with Crystal Ski and get €150 off any booking up to April 2022.
All 2020/2021 holidays come with Covid Cover and free amends up to 28 days before departure.
And because Andorra is a favourite of Irish skiers. Depart January 10, stay self-catering in 3* Sant Roma Apartments, Arinsal from €292pps (four people sharing).
While Italy is mine. And why not spend yours in Sainte D’ouix, at the 3* Hotel Martin, half-board, from €544pps.
Offer runs through to Monday. Includes flights from Dublin.
And I’m not stopping there… more Black Friday deals coming up.
What’s Italian for phew’ I’ve been walked off my piedi today in Bergamo Citt’alta e Citta Bassa (City High and City Low).
And phew too… Johnson, Schnapps and Co. are too late to quarantine me on my return. I was always flying back tomorrow evening anyway, so Sunday is troppo tardi, idioti!
David and Goliath: The Basilica
That’s if I don’t decide to quarantine myself anyway with the Bergamoschi (the people that is, not the local sheepdogs who share their name. Although…!)
La Prima Citta
Bergamo, as we all know by now, is where Covid-19 entered Europe.
To the greater glory of God
But they have taken the worst it can offer and are coming out the other side, and will prevail.
Or as they say here ‘Molamia’ (stay strong).
Chin-Chin
The Bergamoschi have done just that since Covid visited in March and shut the town off from the rest of Lombardy, Italy, and the world for four months.
To the greater glory of beer: With Matteo
But not from each other… or not in the ways that matter.
Matteo, my tour guide volunteered to help out the old and infirm.
Restaurateur Niccolo the same with his original ice cream and food.
Stay strong: The Bergamo credo
And model citizen Emmanuele, who lives in a palazzo on the hill too, as a volunteer.
All are heroes… and all Bergamoschi are an example to us all
La Storia
Perhaps it is in the blood. It is certainly in their history.
I am standing in the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore in Ciitt’alta.
The Bergamo bear: With Matteo and Atalanta Bear
Where the Bergamoschi built a new church after they were delivered from the plague in the 12th century.
And filled it with frescoes, magnificent paintings and special picture boards of other scenes where humanity prevailed over adversity.
Noah anyone?
Pasta Basta
Ma mi scusi. I have just eaten my own weight in food and drunk today, a small lago di vino and must now repair to my bed in the Hotel Excelsior San Marco.
I scream for ice cream: With Niccolo
A Domani.
And if you want to slip on the Italian Boot to follow in my footsteps, here’s my Via Francigena, into Rome
While as the Veneto region is just over the horizon to the east, here’s the City of Frescoes Padova.
Ryanair has always retained its Irish quirkinesses on its way to conquering the world as the major low-fares airline.
Its harp, its name after founder Tony Ryan and its home passengers saying rosaries. playing the lottery and clapping on arrival.
Some unpronounceable name below
And they never forget where they came from and want us to visit, offering seven days in Cork, £17.23pp return, Monday, September 28-Monday, October 5.
Five days to Shannon, Sunday, October 11-Friday, October 16. down from £24.23 and five days in Dublin, Sunday, October 11-Friday, October 16. See terms, conditions.
Another great aspect of Ryanlife is introducing you to places you’d never heard of to keep the costs down.
Ergo the sale which offered among others, Lublin 106 miles south-east of Warsaw then I’ll let you know of the next i e.
They were offering €9.99 one-way in your Ryanair September sale. It ended midnight last night, Tuesday, September 15.
More Aer time
This is your captain speaking
And Ireland’s national airline carrier Aer Lingus want to fly us away too… for the price of a night out.
With prices from €29.99 they’ll whisk you away to Athens, Alghero and Alicante.
Now that’s the As I’ll give you a ‘V’ as in Verona and let you run through the other letters.
The offers end variously between September 29 and 30.
Lost in France
Everything you need
I may paint a picture of a Dickensian upbringing but, in truth, my Dear Old Mum did spoil me as the baby of the family.
And I’ll forever be grateful for everything she, and my Dad, did for me, including giving me my wings.
And allowing me to go off on a post-school camping trip to France, at the sane time my aunt stopped my cousin going.
Chic: On the French Riviera
All of which pricked a lifelong interest for Cannes and the French Riviera.
It all feels just now like being a schoolboy all over again as we wait for permission to travel abroad.
I’m still smarting that my Normandy and Monet trip has been deferred but it has merely whetted my appetite for France.
And here’s one resort too look forward to that is pure heaven.
My room (or floor)
Evian Resort in Evian-les-Bains, has the mineral H2O, of course, and the wellness centre with all those lovely spells.
But it also has family fun, sporting activities and camps, and even opera.
Families booking into the 5* Evian Resort (with free stay for under-13s) can also avail of their Le Fabuleux Jardin rooms.
And there is also a flexible 24-hour cancellation policy.
And the view is all mine too
Evian also have a Freedom offer, promising 20% discounts on accommodation from €264 per night to £238 per night for Hotel Royal.
And from €152|£141 at Hotel Ermitage.
And here’s an Ibiza beezer
It’s always sunny
My Dear Old Mum has always been a sun worshiper which is why one year she left my Dad and brothers at home while we went off to Ibiza.
7 Pines Kempinski has new 2021 early booking offers, a new Villa experience and a Pershing Yacht Experience package.
The table is set
There is 20% off their 2021 daily rate (starting from €300 per night) as well as a Long Stay Offer with 25% off for stays of eight nights or more.
Oh Mexico
As James Taylor sang to us in the RDS in Dublin ‘it sounds so simple I just got to go, the sun’s so hot I forgot to go home, I guess I’ll have to go now.’
Any Port in a storm… and the UK’s newscasters are all aflutter now Portugal has earned a place on the exempt list.
Although my old pals in Tobago are now off limits as are the Croatians (flagged here) while the Greeks thankfully have had a stay of execution.
Quite what the Swiss have done to annoy the Scots who have unilaterally shut the country down is anybody’s guess…
As welcome as getting Portugal back (and not a moment too soon) it begs the question why not the others too?
Testing times
The answer is here
And this is where airport testing would open up our borders again.
Our Travel Agents association here in Scotland, the SPAA (Scottish Passenger Agents Association) which is the oldest in the world, are pushing for its introduction.
But they, and airports, seem to be pushing against a closed door
Our airlines thankfully are continuing to keep routes open and are leaving the decision up to us adults.
Not so splendid isolation
And you’ll have a whole coastline to yourself
Whether we want to self-isolate when we get back.
Although for many who can’t remote work then that will mean a loss of earnings.
Spare a thought too for holidaymakers stuck out in one of the newly banned countries.
Who are having to pay inflated air prices to get home in time before the quarantine kicks in.
One traveller told of his experience in trying to get back to the UK from Croatia.
They won’t be stopped
Ryanair cut to the chase
Which would have involved him making his way across to Italy first and shelling out £450.
In the middle of all this madness Ryanair are still offering cut-price single deals.
Including Pula in Croatia and at a bunch of destinations across Spain from €9.99.
Aer Lingus go green (naturally)
And my friends, the Aer Lingus crew
Ireland’s national airline Aer Lingus carrier knows what sacrifices the public are making.
Which is why they’re making green list countries Greece and Italy even more attractive… if that’s possible.
And so they offer Athens, Rome, Venice and a host of other Italian delights and Greek gifts from €39.99 from Dublin.
Quarantine used to be something reserved for pets…
And don’t you just feel like you’re being treated like a dog by our UK Government?
So it’s good to see Ryanair, British Airways www.britishairways.com and EasyJet https://www.easyjet.com/en taking it to bungling Boris Johnson and the preposterous Priti Patel and threatening legal action.
Change is good at Ryanair
We’ve all been there when life gets in the way.
Or you just muck up your booking by not reading the times properly. OK, that’s just me.
And yes I’ve heard the horror stories of how you can never get through to a real person in customer support.
And when you do you’re more likely to get blood out of a stone.
Just the ticket
But when it came to it and I needed to transfer my booking to Tenerife, and it was entirely my fault, Ryanair www.ryanair.com came good.
The low-fare airline has a summer sale on with 100,000 seats from €19.99.
But it does have a deadline of tonight, June 19.
And there are no flight change fees for July and August.
Our friends at the national airline carrier www.aerlingus.com have even thrown in some free recipe ideas.
To get us in the mood, from French ratatouille to Italian pizza to Spanish tray-bake.
Bonjour, s’il vous plais attendez
Brevement, if you’re a true European, or live in one of those idiosyncratic countries like the Vatican State, Liechtenstein, Andorra and San Marino among others, you’re welcome in France.
If you’re say Spanish then you’ll have to wait until Sunday.
Then you’ll get back over the border without being put into a 14-day quarantine.
Bordering on excellence
The French-Spanish border is one of Europe’s oldest continuous dividers.
Although not as old as the Andorra frontier with France and Spain which dates from 1278.
Of course there being Basques on both sides of the north-west corner of Spain and south-west of France there’s only one thing for it.
It was a baking hot day and we’d have loved to have cooled down in the cove only the waves were misbehaving.
A couple of the more determined members of our CanariaWays https://canariaways.com party braved it in an eddying pool.
And they got their second wind for the rocky, body-sapping climb up to Afur amd a Franco-based pub… but that’s another story.
By hook or by crook
This story is about the reviving qualities of water and specifically ready-made water slides which you can find too in Tenerife.
And which big, and small, kids love.
Tenerife has one of the best, Siam Park has a rubber boat water slide, Mekong Rapids, or try the Dragon, a vertical zero gravity funnel for up to four.
One-day tickets begin at €25 for a child and from €37 for adults. See www.siamparks.net.
Sunny all year round
And, of course, the answer to a sizzling day in Tenerife is a November day, and here is one Canaria Ways prepared earlier.
Bergamo Molamia: Stay strong
Una ciocolatta di calda densa: In Bergamo
This is your captain speaking
Chic: On the French Riviera
Reflections on Madrid