Countries, UK

North Berwick the best of British

Now it would be remiss not to credit the wee toon I now inhabit and the award bestowed, North Berwick the best of British.

Or the woman who brought me here to live among the outlaws and told me I would die here.

The Sunday Times, no less, has put NB top of their list of 72 destinations of best places to live.

The newspaper flags up the way life revolves around the town’s beaches.

Ratty Ruth: Picking on Nic

As well as the wealth of activities, whatever someone’s age.

You might have heard, of course, NB blow-in Ruth Davidson, the former Scottish Tory leader, extolling its virtues on Times Radio.

From the overpriced Herringbone Restaurant where Baroness Davidson of Lundin Links, to give her high-falutin title, held court.

Talking about her town from a private room, well away from the Great Unwashed.

NB till I die: And she’s prepping my plot

It should be said here that NB has always been popular with retirees.

And it’s not for nothing that the main street is nicknamed ‘The Olden Mile’.

The plot thickens: Helping in the garden

The newspaper also highlighted the thriving independent shops.

As a sign of the positive effect small businesses have on a community.

Train sights on NB

In bloom: NB railway station

All of which may prick your curiosity to jump on the train from Edinburgh Waverley for the half an hour trip out west.

So what will you find when you get out here?

Well, said beaches and three links golf courses.

North Berwick GC, parallel to The Olden Mile and the West Beach, the Glen and Tantallon.

Jolly old Britain: Monarchism in NB

And the grand Marine Hotel where you can avail of its R&R, G&T (other cocktails are available).

And putt yourself on their front lawn.

While for a more bijou accommodation then No 12 on the aptly-named Quality Street is a buzz of activity.

Around Signals Bistro on account of its rail track and carriages on its skirting board.

Sport your local town

Cocktail hour: At the Fly Half

Our nearest watering hole, the Fly Half at the Nether Bay Hotel on the arterial Dirleton Road, is busiest around sports days.

And rugby days when the hosts will serve up warming Scotch pies at half time.

To soak up the ales, and do sample the Augustus Caesar.

A Royal Burgh since 1373 when Robert II granted it the right to levy the king’s customs duties.

With a ‘tron’ for weighing wool and a ‘tronar’ operator.

And it still retains those underlying monarchist affections.

With older residents happy to put out the Union flag bunting (that’s you Royalist Roy) at the drop of a hat.

Muir the merrier

Golf coast: NB golf course

NB is a trekker’s go-to with the John Muir Way running through it.

Up to the relics of Tantallon Castle and down to Dirleton.

Admiring as you go the verdant town centre, dressed for you by our Green-Fingered One and her Britain in Bloom winners.

NB too is a twitchers’ headquarters with the Seabird Centre offering unrivalled views of the Bass Rock.

Which you can go out and visit on boat tour parties.

To see the biggest collection of gannets around on the rock.

Gone fishing

Catch of the Day: On the Olden Mile

For the gannet in you NB is well-served for restaurants.

And if you like your meal straight out of the sea we would recommend the Rocketeer in front of the Seabird Centre.

While there is also an inviting hut and eating area, the Lobster Shack, down by the old fishermen holds.

Where local artisans set up stall and sell their wares.

Fringe benefits

Step on it: NB coastal living

NB has a timeless quality to it but despite its reputation as a retirement home there is life Jim.

Particularly around Edinburgh Festival time when it puts on Fringe By The Sea.

Where Texas and Sister Sledge have performed in the past.

And this year The Jacksons will rock up.

So don’t blame it on the sunshine, not guaranteed as this is the East of Scotland.

Home from home: Chez NB

North Berwick the best of British makes up for that in so many other ways.

The annual Sunday Times guide, sponsored by mortgage lender Halifax, also named 10 regional winners.

Including Clerkenwell in London, Abergavenny in Wales and Portstewart in Northern Ireland.

 

America, Countries, Europe, Oceania, UK

North South Seas and Treasure Island

So what do the North Sea South Seas and Treasure Island share in common?

The author Robert Louis Stevenson who I’ve got to know these last 18 months.

Since moving to North Berwick, south of Edinburgh.

Where his grandfather, the eminent Scottish engineer of his time (also Robert) made his mark.

Robert’s piece de resistance was the Bell Rock, the world’s oldest surviving sea-washed lighthouse, built on an outcrop of the Inchcape reef and accessible at low tide. 

Young Robert might have expected to follow in the family lighthouse design business.

The real Treasure Island

Treasure Island: Long John Silver

Robert Louis (originally Lewis) though did base his Treasure Island on the Fidra Island in the Firth of Forth.

Where David and Thomas Stevenson built theirs which has been automated since 1970.

And which the Scottish Seabird Centre has its cameras set on to keep an eye on its seabird population.

Travel bug

Wall art: In a North Berwick alley

It was here then that Robert got his Travel bug which would see him circumnavigate the globe.

Stevenson’s love of Travel was both lyrical and practical as he sought warmer climes more conducive to his bronchial problems.

And he would say: ‘We are all travellers in the wilderness of this world.’

That and. his marriage to American Fanny Van De Grift led to him seeking out many of the familiar, but also the wildernesses of this world.

Travel books

Samoa the merrier: A recreation of RLS’s rooms in Western Samoa

 

And so he gave us a rich legacy of Travel books as well as his bumper fiction books. 

With his entry into this world showing what a master he was with his 200km hike in south-central France, Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes.

A passion we both share for Southern France and hiking. And Robert was to return to France and Belgium for another venture, canoeing this time, in An Inland Voyage. 

The Amateur Emigrant, Across the Plains and the Silverado Squatters covers RLS’s American peregrinations and there is a museum there too in the Napa Valley in California

And then we get In the South Seas, a celebration of Samoa where he set down roots and lived out his days.

RLS truly loved the South Seas island of Samoa and championed their rights in the face of exploitation from the super powers in letters to The Times.

In RLS’s footsteps

From the author’s mouth

And the West Samoans loved him back erecting a museum to the man they called Tusitala ‘Tale Teller’ on the 100th anniversary of his death in 1994.

Check out their excellent site with its Following in the Footsteps of RLS.

Western Samoa is a three and a half hours flight from Auckland, New Zealand

So let’s hear if for North South Seas and Treasure Island.