Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

The longest Camino day

It’s when you forego the train, leaving outside your hotel window, that you really do trust in Him, on this the longest Camino day.

It is my cross to bear to carry my full backpack the full 25kms (or 6 hours), for the last leg, from Padron to Santiago de Compostella.

On the right track: But we’ll be walking

And be there in time for 4.30pm to catch the only Sunday bus to Porto for my red-eye flight back to Edinburgh the next morning.

American dad and lad Jim and Jamie are ahead of me, as they have been all week, before sunset.

This has arms and legs: My pulpo

But I am waiting in the Hotel Rosalía lobby on Big Brother Ed… he ain’t heady he’s my brother.

Despite spending last night, leading the belated celebrations for Aussie Allan’s 77th birthday, with his travelling companion Peter.

Pick your dish: Peter picked the Pedron peppers

At Pulperia Rial in the old centre, where I feast on the regional speciality pulpo, on a wooden plate obviously, and Rioja.

I carb up with Irish sisters Nuala and Maura but we bemoan the lack of Brennan’s bread.

The bread of life

The cat’s whiskers: Aussie Allan and Funtime Jimmy

We will meet again on the Way and because they’re Irish the talk comes round to food.

And they inform me that to tell the difference between Catholics and Protestants you ask where they keep their toasters.

Catholics leave theirs on the workplace while Protestants put theirs in the wardrobe.

Completely random but the kind of invaluable knowledge you take away from walking the Way with the world’s walkers.

All this talk of food has made me hungry.

The ways of the Way

Just a few steps to go: Santiago in the distance

We break bread again, obviously, with Aussies Allan and Peter who will probably end up in our excess luggage.

And learn too the ways of the Way when a local offers to buy half of Peter’s monster cheese and half baguette for €3.

Or at least we think that is what is happening because at this stage lifting the piano that is my backpack is making me hallucinate.

God though has shone on us and given us a gentle wind to blow us to Santiago de Compostella.

When it’s no racing cert

Leading the Way: And Ed is off again

And most importantly with enough time to pick up our certificate.

For completing a 100km stretch of the Camino with Camino Ways.

Although after filling out a needless form on a computer we are faced with a snaking half a mile queue for our cert.

Instead we accept that if God knows that we walked his Way then that is enough.

The front doors of the cathedral aren’t accessible either and we are told too late that we needed to go through a side entrance.

But having embraced the Pilgrims Mass when I walked the last 100 of the Camino Frances.

And ducked out of the way of the Botafumeiro incense holder which is currently out of action I am not suffering FOMO.

Leaving behind the city of brotherly love

I will, alas, miss out on spending a night in Santiago and then Porto with Big Brother Ed.

As I have a bus to catch back to Porto this afternoon and then a flight the next morning to Edinburgh.

Now being brothers I’d never tell him this so you’re sworn to secrecy.

He has, in truth, set a way, a path, for me to follow from my earliest days, and still does.

Even if sometimes he leaves me behind, he is ultimately always there for me in the end.

MEET YOU ON THE ROAD

 

Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

Strictly Camino Dancing

Stage 5: And I’ve got a spring in my step on the penultimate leg of my Camino Portugues… hence the Strictly Camino Dancing.

Martin and Natalia are entreating us like sirens.

Setting out: Back on the Way

On the 18kms trek of our 100+ Camino Ways pilgrimage through the woods between Calais de Reis and Padrón.

En route to Santiago de Compostella.

I have been reminded from home that Britain’s favourite pastime Strictly Come Dancing starts its elimination round tonight.

And in the absence of any competition I insist on our dancing duo to award me a 10 along with my obligatory Camino passport stamp.

Getting the band back together

Anybody there? On the lookout for my billet

The band is back together again, Aussies Allan and Peter and Indiana Julie and Chicago Nancy.

Julie alighting on my Red Rocks t-shirt at our A Casa Do Lantoneiro billet in Calais de Reis.

Phew: Found my apartment

Apartments up from the Hotel Pousada Real where we had to go to check in before being rerouted to the block up Rua Real.

You got that then… Big Brother Ed has been billeted half a mile up the road where we will wind down around ribs and wings.

Food for the soul: For my penultimate leg

Before heading back out on the Way.

Me reunited with the rucksack I had tried, with Eatrella Galicia on board, to waylay.

The Catino: And the obligatory cat picture

There are new members of our merry band of brothers and sisters today on the Way.

Irish Michelle and Maria, with whom we bla-bla-bla with, and naturally about blaa, the Waterford speciality roll.

Breaking bread at our last supper

Listen up: And I’ve bored this peregrino stiff

And because we are on a spiritual journey I make no apologies at torturing a biblical metaphor.

And we will return to our Aussie pals Allan and Peter for breaking bread at our last supper.

At our digs for the night, Hotel Rosalía in Padron.

Tomorrow, God willing, we will reach our destination Santiago de Compostella and pick up my companion Camino certificate.

The flower off Scotland: And a coffee break

To bookend my 2016 keepsake.

On track: Padron station outside my hotel room

It promises to be the longest day, 25kms and then on to Porto for a red-eye back to Edinburgh.

Now if only there was a train station near the Hotel Rosalía to save me the legwork.

MEET YOU ON THE ROAD