Countries, Culture, Europe, UK

Hello Good Bayeux

Hello Good Bayeux I don’t know why you say Hello I say Good Bayeux.

And apologies to The Beatles who really have nothing to do with this yarn other than this being a magical mystery tour.

Of course, Keir Starmer is claiming the loan of the William the Conqueror Battle of Hastings drape as a victory.

But the reasons are rather more prosaic and more to do with filthy lucre.

As the Bayeux Museum is undertaking a two-year €35m refurb back in Normandy.

Which obviously means the French need somewhere to store the cloth.

Merci bien

Check mate: The Lewis chessmen

Cynics will say that Emmanuel Macron will have extracted a price from Britain in the swap.

And while we’re not sure if the Sutton Hoo ship burial, the Lewis chessmen and other artefacts have the same pull as the tapestry.

It will bring coins into the coffers.

Of course, Britain won’t be giving away a look at the tapestry.

And although entry to the British Museum in London is gratis special exhibitions come at a cost.

The price of cloth

Eye, eye: What would Harold have said?

And judging by the £18 admission price for current display Hiroshige: artist of the open road we can expect Bayeux to be pitched considerably higher.

Particularly as the 230ft long and 50cm high tapestry features 58 scenes.

In four stitches and thread in 10 natural dye colours.

Including 623 humans, more than 700 animals, 37 buildings and 41 ships and other vessels plus 94 penises, or they could be swords.

We’ll leave you then to do the math with Bayeux reporting they see 400,000 visitors a year, charging €12.

And, no we don’t know the ancient Norman or English for Kerching.

Scotland’s story

Scots cloth: In Galashiels

Of course, while Bayeux may be the world’s most famous drape we in our northern outpost of Scotland boast our own cloth.

Now the tapestry may be rather newer at 12 years old than Bayeux.

Which dates back to 1070 but Scottish history is just as old and illustrious as its neighbour.

The Great Tapestry of Scotland is housed appropriately in the weaving town of Galashiels in the Scottish Borders.

With tickets priced at £12.50.

Game of Thrones in Belfast

Sew naughty: The Game of Thrones Tapestry

The power of the tapestry is clearly still as absorbing to modern advanced sensibilities as it was to illiterate Medieval peasants.

And, of course, it is always a blank canvas to weave whatever story you wish to tell.

With inevitably Game of Thrones getting in on the action in its spiritual home of the North of Ireland.

At the excellent Ulster Museum in Belfast where those who like their tapestries guttural can see a murder on the privy.

And all free but we’d recommend you make a donation.

So Hello Good Bayeux to the latest tapestry addition to these islands, albeit temporary with the exhibition slated for September 2026.

And just think even if you do have to shell out £18 that’s probably 20p each Willie.

 

Countries, Ireland, UK

Ship-shape but how to prolong your Belfast stay?

And they’ve left, the 125 cruise passengers on an extended 40-day stay in Northern Ireland… ship-shape but how to prolong your Belfast stay?

The windows of the world have been on the passengers on the Villa Vie Odyssey these past two months

As they enjoyed an unscheduled stay on the Foyle.

Or a marketing tool for our friends at Visit Belfast as the perfect PR gift.

Room with a view: The Villa Vie bedrooms

To show the rest of us (and Belfastophiles like ourselves are already converts) how to spend 40 days here.

There was more than enough in our hosts’ presentation on their visit to the sumptuous The Dome in George Street, Edinburgh.

To keep us entertained for a couple of months.

Clear blue waters: The big ship

As it goes I’m just back from Belfast where I’d made my way to the docks.

Where a ship even more renowned than the Villa Vie Odyssey is celebrated.

You know the cruise ship which sails around the world over 1301 days and 425 destinations. 

Quarter Masters

Shimmering: The Titanic Quarter

The Titanic Quarter has transformed the Belfast tourist landscape.

With 3.6 million taking it in annually and 20,000 living, working, visiting and staying daily.

Standing at the boards on the slipway where Titanic was built it is truly an assault on the senses.

For all its scale we are reminded that the Villa Vie Odyssey and today’s cruise ships would dwarf the Titanic.

But in its appeal none will ever match the Titanic.

Which is why, of course, Belfast’s house guests became familiar visitors with the Titanic Quarter over their 40 days in town.

Now, while the Quarter is on the Villa Vie shipmates’ doorstep the rest of us access it along the Maritime Mile from the city.

Follow the Seahorse

Shipmaster: In the Titanic Hotel

The first thing that strikes visitors to Belfast city is its intimacy and that you double back on yourself.

We remember inside knowledge from past visits to use the Grand Central Hotel’s Seahorse on the side of the building as our compass.

It keeps even this accidental tourist straight and confident to explore further.

To the Cathedral Quarter, the Ulster Museum  with its Game of Thrones tapestry when we visited.

The weavers at the Ulster Folk Museum and the Sandy Row we associate with Van Morrison.

For those who want to delve further into the city’s history and more recent the Glider bus is an easy way of getting around the city.

Black Taxi tips

Taxi for Billy? The Black Taxi Tour

The Belfast black taxis, of course, differ from those that proliferate in London.

The native and knowledgeable Belfastian drivers with their famous gallows wit take tourists around both sides of the divide.

From the 28 years of The Troubles.

And visit the imposing statue of Edward Carson, the defender of Ulster, at the expansive seat of government at Stormont.

A day in the life of a Belfastian

Put your hat on it: Van Morrison at the Europa

Today, Belfastians go about their lives unhurried and untroubled.

Starting their day with a ‘wee’ (huge) Ulster Fry breakfast.

And while it’s not obligatory to stop for lunch at the Italianate architecture Crown Liquor Saloon with the best Guinness in Belfast.

It is recommended to tarry a while in one of its booth snugs and get late back from lunch.

And maybe grab a cocktail at the Europa Hotel opposite on your way home from work and if you’re lucky enough and Van is doing one of his jazz cabaret acts then take that in.

Belfast, in truth, throbs to the sounds of traditional music, it is slated to hold the Fleadh next year.

Samhain folk

Crowning glory: Game of Thrones and Belfast

It was, of course, at the vanguard of many other genres over the years from its punk days to today’s multi-cultural sounds.

The city is readying itself now for the Irish festival Samhain, which the rest of the world sabotaged and calls Halloween.

It is safe to say that should you be lucky enough to be delayed for 40 days in Belfast then you will never run out of things to do.

And the locals will make you more than welcome.

So there will be no need to ask: Ship-shape but how to prolong your Belfast stay?