Countries, Food & Wine, Ireland, UK

Simple Irish message from festive Fermanagh

Do we really need another Dawn French saccharine M&S Christmas advert… no, give us a simple Irish message from festive Fermanagh.

Enniskillen, in the north of Ireland, is seared into the international consciousness for an atrocity which befell the town.

On Remembrance Day 36 years go.

Which is marked now with a lasting memorial.

So it is reviving to see the market town now celebrated for its message of peace and brotherhood rather than decried for its darkest hour.

The unlikely heroes of this story are an old man who seeks companionship and shelter from the cold.

Charlie Bravo

Solemn: At the graveyard

Having placed flowers on a grave and having been ignored on the street he pops into Charlie’s Bar.

Where a dog sits himself opposite the old man and a couple at the bar follow their mutt to sit and sup with him.

And not a mince pie, turkey, stuffing, cracker or anything else that M&S are selling this Christmas, in sight.

Of course, the message that manageress Una Burns is sharing in the £700 video.

Which has garnered millions of views on X and 60,000 likes on TikTok is hospitality and companionship.

Which is, of course, the essence of Irishness.

Shove up: The old man and the dog

Now, being a son of Irish hotel and bar people, with a sprinkling of weaver and shop people from this part of the world, I can vouch for that.

The bar is the ideal starting and finishing point on your tour of the Fermanagh Lakelands.

Where you can explore the waterways, caves and historic sites and go walking, kayaking and hydrobiking.

Of course, all of that will put a thirst on you and that is best slaked with a pint of plain as they say in these parts… the magical Guinness.

But Fermanagh also boasts a thriving gin industry too in a setting unmatched anywhere we’d wager.

These castle walls: Fermanagh

Joe McGirr’s pride and joy Boatyard Distillery is on the banks of Lough Erne in Northern Ireland and can accessed by both boat and road.

And we know which one would be more fun.

Enniskillen native Joe learned his trade well in Edinburgh and in ten years at the Glenmorangie distillery in Tain in the Highlands.

Before adapting his new-found knowledge back home in Ireland.

Gin’s the tonic: Boatyard

Which we, of course, road tested instead pf working one autumn day in Dublin’s Temple Bar.

Of course our Christmas old man and his pals prefer a Guinness around the table.

And the doggie a bowl of water at Charlie’s.

But whatever your tipple the simple Irish message from festive Fermanagh is the Gaelic watchword Fáilte.

 

 

 

Countries, Ireland

Winter in Dublin

Cult Irish band Bagatelle famously ‘remembered that summer in Dublin’, more recently Fáilte Ireland have been promoting Winter in Dublin.

For me in my 13 years an Irishman there were a couple of white Christmases.

And I remember one Snowmageddon and a slippy Leeson Street when I slipped and fell.

Dublin, and Ireland, in truth has never been as prepared as Northern countries for icy grips.

And the sight of Beamers (BMW( abandoned on the dualler (dual carriageway).

En route from plush rugby central Ballsbridge through to Chez Murty in Greystones, Co. Wicklow, was commonplace.

Ariel House of Fun

Wilde stuff: Oscar Wilde in Merrion Square


Of course, winter lockdowns were fortunately rare.

Welcome when it means you get put up in the work’s local hotel, the award-winning Ariel House, for the night.

Light frosting on Herbert Park, Stephen’s Green, Merrion Square and Phoenix Park make Dublin a picturesque winter city.

And I will be wallowing in The Fair City’s winter welcome on a whistlestop trip to my old stomping ground this week.

Night fever

Pat’s the way: At St Patrick’s Cathedral


Kicking off this month and new this year, Dublin by Night Fest is a two-day festival from November 2.

Celebrating the magic of music, arts and culture in Dublin with brass bands, buskers and circus performers to a live outdoor movie screening.

For lit lovers (guilty) The Dublin Book Festival runs from November 8-12.

While later next month The Jonathan Swift Festival will be held in the ornate St Patrick’s Cathedral.

With debates, performances and immersive tours.

Here indoors

Little belter: The Little Museum of Ireland

And because it can get chilly in the winter…

You’ll no doubt visit the must-sees, The Book of Kells, Dublin Castle, the Hugh Lane Gallery, Kilmainham Gaol and ‘the Dead Zoo’ (The National Museum of Ireland’.

But a fave with locals is The Little Museum of Ireland.

This winter it is offering late night tours with a festive tipple on Thursdays, Friday’s and Saturdays through November.

While the National Gallery of Ireland, our go-to when waiting for the Scary One doing her shopping in Grafron Street is warming up for winter.

The National Gallery has after dark events including ‘Meet the Maker’, evening concerts and Spanish themed experiences.

Light up, light up

Monkeying around: Dublin Zoo


The city and many venues around it will host light events including Wonder Lights at Malahide Castle from November 10.

Wild Lights” will also return to Dublin Zoo from November 16.

And many of the events, activities and markets take place from November.

And carry all the way through December into January.

Ice, ice maybe

Rail thing: Ice skating in Dublin

Which all budding ice skaters (fave family memories) in Dun Laoghaire and Blanchardstown will run well into the New Year.

So I’ll be packing my scarf in my hand luggage and taking a deep breath to inhale again the Irish air and my winter in Dublin.