Countries, Culture, Deals, Food & Wine, Ireland

If Ireland did boozy St Patrick’s Day breakfasts

If Ireland did boozy St Paddy’s Day breakfasts… well, they do, and the Ruby Molly has promised to get the party started early.

So early, in fact, that they’re starting the night before on March 16, with what they’re billing a Pre-Parade celebration.

The action gets going with an hour of free welcome drinks between 4pm and 5pm and a Dublin feast of food.

Featuring those Irish classics Guinness, Jameson whiskey and, er William Grant.

Back in black: Guinnesses with the gang

See they do cater for their diaspora from Scotland.

While it wouldn’t be Dublin if there wasn’t a singalong.

And the Ruby Molly has Jerry Miles to entertain you while you scoff your specially curated menu inspired by Irish classics.

Tour de force

Bar one: The Ruby Molly

You’ll be perfectly situated for the Dublin Grand Parade, just ten minutes from the hub that is Temple Bar.

And the Guinness Storehouse within strolling distance for the best panoramic views of the city from the Gravity Bar, and best pint of plain.

Although family loyalties will always mean we point in the direction of the Liffeyside institution that is the Workshop bistro bar, next to the Tara Street Dart (or train) station.

Fill up your cart: Strawberry theme

While if you’re wanting some culture, or just get away from the crowds for a breather.

Then Trinity College and its Book of Kells and the National Gallery are havens of peace.

Of course, it’s no coincidence that the Ruby group dedicated their hotel to arguably Dublin’s most famous citizen, one Molly Malone.

Molly’s Dublin

Green for go: Cocktail hour

As its location in Oxmanstown on the north of the river is solid market trading land.

Where you’d not be surprised to find Mrs Brown or her boys.

Once the site of an abbey, the rediscovery of parts of its vault in the 1880s, 7 feet under the street, adds to the mystical allure surrounding the hotel.

Drawing inspiration from the vibrant covered market of 1892, Ruby Molly channels  former market trader Anna Lawlor’s story.

Balcony seat: And view of Dublin

A place where farmers sold their fresh produce.

Including the much-coveted strawberries that adorned the tables of Dublin’s finest hotels.

And well-endowed Dublin lasses sold their cockles and mussels, alive-oh.

Rates from €345 (16–18 March). Images and further details available on request.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ireland

A Wild Rover for many the year

I’ve been a Wild Rover for many the year but have yet to take the lead of an award-winning coach company which knows Ireland like, well the back of their paw.

Now Wild Rover Tours provide day tours from Dublin to all the favourites.

So that’ll be the Cliffs of Moher & Galway and their award-winning Northern Ireland Highlights tours.

Including Belfast, Titanic Quarter and the Giant’s Causeways.

All of which should be on every Hibernophile’s list.

The Garden of Ireland is rosy

Killing it: Kilkenny

But you’ll not be surprised to see that we’ve alighted on our old stomping ground of Wicklow, the Garden of Ireland.

Wild Rover has packaged in Glendalough, Wicklow & Kilkenny and even sheep farm and dog trials.

The 6th-century Kilkenny City is known for its 6th century monastery built in honour of St Canice and was once capital of Confederate Ireland.

These days it’s the capital of hurling.

Wild Rover will offer you a 45-minute guided walking tour of the narrow streets and the grounds of the Norman castle which dates from 1172.

And learn its storied history, the site of the earliest recorded witch trial, the battles with Oliver Cromwell’s Roundheads, the Vikings presence and its boast today of being the Cultural Capital of Ireland.

Braveheart territory

Shining bright: Glendalough
No Irish coach tour would be complete with a trip through mountains and glens.
And if you can almost feel like you’re stomping through history then it is because you are.
With Wicklow Gap and Wicklow Mountains film location of movies such as Braveheart, Excalibur, PS, I Love you and the TV series Vikings

The Glendalough valley is of course a much-trodden path for anyone who has had the fortune to live in these parts.

And you’ll enjoy a 30-minute guided walking tour in the ruins of St Kevin’s Monastery.

And see the 30m 1th-century granite round tower standing over 30 metres, built by monks to protect themselves from those marauding Vikings.

Dog days

Take me to church: Ancient Ireland

Now where Wild Rover scores above the other tours for us is that you can truly go native with. say the sheep dog trial.

A favourite of my Dear Old Dad’s when he was a-courting my Donegal mum back in the day… us Glaswegians know how to woo a woman.

And WR afford the visitor the opportunity to join a real Irish shepherd at work together with his best friend the Border Collie sheepdog.

Rover’s return: Sheepdog trials

The dog, listening to the whistling sounds from the shepherd, will herd the sheep across fields.

Through gates and fencing into corrals, out again over ditches around trees and right to your feet.

And depending on the time of the year you will also have the opportunity to hold and feed a baby lamb.

And all for just €40 from Dublin’s Fair City.

 

America, Countries, Food & Wine, Ireland

How to pour the perfect pint of Guinness

And you’d expect the owner of the company at least to know how to pour the perfect pint of Guinness, but alas not.

Edward Guinness’s cack-handed tilt is, of course, not the only inaccuracy in The House of Guinness, but it is the most serious.

Eddie makes a set piece of showing Fenian firebrand Ellen how to pour the stout out of a bottle in the Stephen Knight Netflix series.

Using the whole theatre of the moment in a posh Dublin hotel.

Tilting in wrong direction

Every cloud: She’s gone early

To point out that patience is essential for the perfect Guinness.

And that the same ought to be applied to the fight for an Irish republic.

Only that he has the tilt all wrong and that the head is too thin.

Now, as with all matters, we always go the experts.

And in the absence of my Donegal hotelier grandpa or my four Irish publican uncles. I’ll settle on the next big thing.

The Guinness Storehouse at St James’s Gate in The Liberties, Dublin who advise.

The initial pour

Settling down: Just how it should be

Hold your glass at a 45-degree angle and aim the tap nozzle for the gold harp logo.

Pour until you reach the top of the harp, then stop.

Let it settle

Accessorise: With your own image

Set the Guinness down and let it rest, which is called the ‘surge and settle’ phase.

The darker stout slowly sinks under the creamy, white foam.

Top off the pint

What goes up: Gravity Bar

Settle your drink for about a minute beforeyou fill up the rest of the glass.

With the glass straight, fill until the foam forms a dome for the perfect Guinness head.

And all of which I learned first hand for myself in a little corner of Ireland.

They call Las Vegas and Rí Rá Irish Pub at The Shoppes at Mandalay Place.

Countries, Cruising, Ireland, Ships, UK

Stena’s Holyhead family hub is a racing cert

It wasn’t always like this, for Fiftysomethings it was toy cars on the deck, but for today’s kids Stena’s Holyhead family hub is a racing cert.

It is safe to say that Seventies chidren, or maybe just this lad, got to know the deck of the ferry pretty well.

On those schoolday Easter trips from Stranraer to Larne with my Dear Old Mum, on our way to her Co. Donegal homestead.

And always on my eyes ducking passengers’ feet.

The Irish Sea diaspora

The right buttons to press: A road test

For those of the Irish Sea diaspora, and with air prices sky high, the car ferry was always the vessel of choice.

With the good people of Donegal and the north of Ireland always decamping to Scotland on account of its proximity.

And those from Dublin and the south relocating to England through the port of Holyhead on Anglesey.

Sail on: With Stena

The ferries became a window into the world of the Irish Diaspora on the move.

Men exchanging the craic in a swirl of smoke and booze in the bar.

And the women trying to keep their kids under control as their kids whizzed their newly procured toy cars through’ folks’ legs.

Bells and whistles

A world of possibilities: The hub

Times have, of course, changed.

And no tech-savvy kid would put up with a toy car for entertainment on a ferry.

And Stena has too with its bells and whistles family hub to keep Mum, Dad and Junior happy… and outta the way.

With an interactive wall, digital floor projections and a cutting-edge gaming corner, Stena Line.

And there’s space too on the top-of-the-range Estrid which I’ve road tested and so has their team of kid testers.

Estrid’s family hub boast a seating capacity for 115.

And Stena offers a 2.2 family and car return from Dublin to Holyhead on board the top-of-the-range Estrid from £353

America, Countries, Europe, Ireland, UK

A wee daughter of Donegal picking up the birthday bill

There’s a banquet today at the Lord’s table with a wee daughter of Donegal picking up the birthday bill.

And woe betide anyone, God included, who gets in her way.

Of course, for Donegal, read Dublin, Glasgow or Galway, Newtowmountkennedy or New York.

Or anywhere my Dear Old Mum, who will be surely celebrating her 96th birthday today in heaven, wined and dined us.

Handbags at Dawn

In any language: Over who pays

Anyone who has spent any time with the Irish of that golden generation will recognise the women who pay the bill.

Or seen the advert on Irish television where two women discuss who will fork up for the fare.

Ending, of course, in them battering each other over the head with handbags.

It has been my great fortune to have been able to break bread with the force of nature that was Teasy for nearly six decades.

And never once did she let me, or anyone else, pay.

Teasy’s table

Prize gal: At the National Piping Centre in Glasgow

Not on any of the big occasions, my 50th birthday, at the Hydro in Peebles in the Scottish Borders.

Nor any of the times when we were living in Co. Wicklow and would meet relatives in the Grand Hotel, Malahide, north of Dublin… 

Nor in her homestead of Donegal in the north-west of Ireland.

Cocktail hour: With Mum in Co. Wicklow

And we had one of our many mini-fall-outs when we attended my NYFD cousin’s wedding in New York.

And she forced money into my hand to pay for everyone and then apologised to said cousin when they paid our way.

Our shout

On a pedestal: Me and Mum at the Chooky Welly statue

While on the one occasion I was able to treat her, in her adopted city of Glasgow, she couldn’t help herself either.

And when the good people of the Glasgow Tourist board asked for the bill at the end of our meals, her purse would come out.

A lot of head scratching followed before the next lunch or meal and the same scenario played out again… and as for the cost of the hotel.

Teasy’s wide-eyed appetite for life could only be seen to be believed and she wondered in awe that anybody would pay my way to write about their wares.

Of course, Teasy, had the final word at our last supper before we returned her to the Donegal sod  last week.

A wee daughter of Donegal picking up the birthday bill still.

 

 

 

America, Countries, Ireland, UK

John Bull’s Other Island and the Irish Teasock

They’re just not playing ball… John Bull’s Other Island and the Irish Teasock.

How else to explain Irish ‘prime minister’ Simon Harris not being swept up in England’s march to Euro soccer glory?

Eminent Sky TV political interviewer Trevor Phillips dropped the ball (yes, it’s all footballspeak at the moment).

When he tried to chivy Ireland’s leader along in his discussion about the new British government.

By asking him what he thought of England’s progress in the Euros.

Taoiseach’s low block

Poll position: Taoiseach Simon Harris

Of course my old neighbour from my time in Greystones, Co. Wicklow, let Trev’s volley bounce back at him off his wall.

Now politicians and politicos trying to ingratiate themselves with sporting fans rarely works well,

Who can forget Rishi Sunak asking the Welsh public if they were excited about the Euros?

A Euros where Wales would not be playing but fierce rivals England were.

Political football own goals

Telling porkies: Liz Truss

God love them, they try.

But unfortunately our politicians still don’t see that the world no longer wants the sun never to set on their empire.

Or that they ever did.

To be fair, some Brits do take a stab at learning the lingo.

To try to blag that they know, and care, about what Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw called John Bull’s Other Island.

Like former British prime minister Liz Truss’s mangled attempt at pronouncing Taoiseach, the Irish name for their leader?

To be fair, it’s not Lettuce Liz’s fault that she’s not of the diaspora.

A Brit of Oirish

Our bodies are a temple: Temple Bar

You can, of course, tell the true Brits in any airport heading to Ireland by their stag and hen Oirish merch.

And thankfully avoid them too by steering clear of their meeting place, the overpriced Temple Bar on the banks of the River Liffey.

Which, of course, I’m doing as I board my Ryanair red eye and head over for a catch-up with travel friends at the Shelbourne Hotel on Stephen’s Green.

It’s certainly one way to block out the hysteria greeting England’s arrival in the Euros final by our neighbours.

Biden his time in Ireland

Say it ain’t so Joe: Biden and Trump

Our talk with our American guests in the Shelbourne at the annual US Soiree in Dublin will doubtless be about their elections.

And being the wide-eyed liberals we will. Of course, be wildly sympathetic to Joe Biden’s travails.

And not mention his loose pass when he visited his ancestral home a couple of years ago.

Some like it Scot: With Marilyn in LA

And mistook the New Zealand All Blacks for the hated British regiment from the Irish War of Independence, the Black and Tans.

Of course, the Irish have such a love-in with America that they instantly forgave him.

Particularly as he was playing hard ball with Britain over a trade deal at the time.

And knowing that whatever his frailties he would always know about John Bull’s Other Island and the Irish Teasock.

 

 

Countries, Ireland

Free Dads Day at Dublin Zoo

There was a time when my Champ aped my every move, which is Nature’s Way which you’ll see for yourself if Junior treats you to Free Dads Day at Dublin Zoo.

Fathers of the world get their moment in the sun on Sunday.

And you can celebrate the hunter/gatherer in your life.

With visitors able to avail of a comp adult ticket when a full paying adult or child ticket is purchased online.

Simples: And they are cute

Simples! As is the offer of a sweet treat and coffee for €6 at the Meerkat Restaurant, Picnic Bench or Starbucks.

The Dad theme continues with keeper talks where you can learn about the fathers of the Dublin animal house and meet their families.

So you need to book online and enter the promo code ‘DadsGoFree’. 

The old animal house

Dad time: We’re all animals at the end of the day

So we’re all going to the zoo, zoo, zoo and you can come too.

Dublin Zoo is open seven days a week from 9.30am to 6pm. 

And for those who rightly scrutinise zoos Dublin is one of the most enduring in the world.

Grumpy old dad: But you forgive him

The fourth oldest in the world, it opened in 1831 and cost just a shilling and a penny on Sundays.

And Dads, you won’t even have to pay that.

Of course, the Irish capital’s animal house in Phoenix Park has changed somewhat since then.

Animals first

Lion in wait: At Dublin Zoo

And always with the animals’ welfare and our education at its forefront.

Dublin had participated in 30 international conservation and breeding programmes for endangered species.

And educates visitors on the importance of the natural world. 

Learning the ropes: Junior

And for those lucky enough to live in Ireland they will have seen the heartwarming stories from the RTÉ series The Zoo.

So while it’s been the longest time since The Champ said: ‘Dad, I want to be like you-oo-oo.

So cherish those moments on Sunday and maybe start with Free Dads Day at Dublin Zoo.

 

Countries, Europe, Ireland, Music, UK

Our deal of two Irish music cities and beyond

In best gigging tradition today we’re greeting you with Hello, Belfast, Hello Dublin… with our deal of two Irish music cities and beyond.

Now the northern and southern powerhouses of Ireland have given us some of the most enduring acts of our lives.

Stiff Little Fingers, Rudy, Christy Moore, Gary Moore, and, of course, Van ‘The Man’ Morrison.

Dublin’s Fare City

Phil volume: With pal Marc in Dublin

While Dublin has boasted The Dubliners, Phil Lynott, U2, the Boomtown Rats, Aslan, Kodaline, The Script, Imelda May and Sinead O’Connor.

All of which have been a joy to see live and even better if they’re on your doorstep.

The same of which can be said for artists beyond Ireland who rave about playing for an Irish audience.

And I swear fellow Scots The Proclaimers were speaking right to me at Dublin’s best music venue Vicar Street.

But what of the musicgoers who part with their hard-earned to see their favourite stars?

Well, whisper it down in the Fair City but going to see your favourite musicians in Dublin is a considerably dearer night out than if you head north.

Even taking into account the cost of travel.

And even more galling for the Irish music fan, or those of a different blood, who live there but Britain is cheaper still.

If you stay out of London which we all know is its own country.

Our friends at luggage company Radical Storage, who regularly provide us with relevant travel insights, have compiled this information for you giggers out there.

The bill of Belfast City

Say it with Flowers: The Killers’ Brandon Flowers

And they have discovered that Britain’s regional towns and Belfast, the pride of the north of Ireland, are a giggers’ go-to.

With Nottingham (£58) in the English Midlands topping the list for concertgoers with Birmingham (£78) third.

And Antwerp (£76) sandwiched in between in second and Belfast (£81) fourth.

We had hoped that Continental concerts would be akin to European football prices but alas not.

With only Assago (£81) in Italy and Madrid (£81) featuring.

Milan is the most expensive city in Europe with (£322), ouch, Dublin (£143) in fifth.

All of which you’d think would mean that you would squeeze as much music out of your concert as you can.

And not as is the way of the concertgoers I literally bumped into at anyone from The Killers in Marlay Park to Paul Simon at the RDS turn your back on the artist.

And push past you with rounds of drinks while shouting at each other through the lyrics.

Cashing in: Taylor Swift

Now, granted, we can’t all get hospitality at the Europa Hotel in Belfast for a jazz cabaret night and dinner to see Van Morrison (guilty!)

But there is value and craic out there.

Perhaps not if you’re a Swiftie (average £375) or a Coldplay (£229) or Stevie Nicks fan (£185).

But Take Me to Hozier (£48) proud Bray native and one-time neighbour of ours when we lived for 13 years in Greystones, Co. Wicklow.

So our advice, and that of Radical Storage, is to do your homework on your favourite acts, and destinations.

And it all starts here with our deal of two music cities and beyond.

America, Countries, Deals, Flying

Denver, the Aer Mile High City

It’s America’s ear-poppin’, beer-hoppin’ out west playground and now it’s accessible through Europe’s pre-clearance capital, Dublin… it’s Denver, the Aer Mile High City.

Denver, you see, has just become the 14th direct Aer Lingus route out of Dublin.

And they celebrated it in style this week, bringing some real high-fliers over to Ireland to launch it.

With the Mayor himself, Mike Johnston, heading the delegation.

For an evening of Irish-American craic at the Banqueting Hall in College Green.

Bandanaman: And the Bandanettes In Denver

Now, the party-loving Denverites will gladly tell you.

That because it’s a mile high you only need half as much drink to get you twice as pie-eyed.

And because Denver styles itself as the Craft Beer hub of America then it helps to be prepared for the change of atmosphere.

And if that means avoiding a stop-off in London, and nothing has changed now I’ve relocated to Scotland, then all the better.

A hit of Denver

Pioneers: James Cahill, Krisha Shah and Scott Gault en route to Denver. Photograph: Leon Farrell/Photocall Ireland

Now, when you do get out to Denver and Colorado, and you will, it’ll hit you, yes, the altitude.

But also the feeling of those who have passed through here before.

The pioneers came out West to start a new life.

And to practise their religion their way, and those chasing the Gold Rush.

Fare play: Old-style Colorado train

All before mechanical birds, slugging it out instead by stagecoach and by rail.

And how Americans have always glorified their stations with Denver Union Station a living breathing, transporting museum.

And, of course, those who were here first, the Native Americans.

It fits the Bill

Buffalo stance: Buffalo Bill’s grave

With the best example of how the incomers and the indigenous population did get on visit the Buffalo Bill Museum and Grave.

Above Lookout Mountain, near Denver.

Where you can see examples on the boards of how Bill and his Wild West and Congress of Rough Riders of the World took the trip in the other direction.

To entertain the smallest Scottish and English towns.

It’s a deal

Flying the flag: For Colorado

So, the pathways between ourselves, and I count myself as an Irish-Scot who always goes through Dublin to the States, have always existed.

And have now been enhanced from Dublin to Denver, the Aer Mile High City. 

Now your  Dublin-Denver route will operate four times weekly and is served by an Airbus A330.

Those looking to explore the ‘Mile High City’ and beyond can enjoy €100 off Economy and €200 off Business fares to the US.

In an offer that lassts until midnight 19th May. 

And is valid for travel from 1st August through 30th November.

 

Countries, Culture

Play nice on the Dublin-NY portal

They’re brothers by a different mother, sisters by a different mister, so come on just play nice on the Dublin-NY portal.

Because, guess what, you’ve only just gone and got this interactive twinning of two of the world’s great cities suspended.

By flashing body parts and images of the Twin Towers on it.

Now we all know the bonds and family links that tie the Fair City and the City that Never Sleeps.

Including our own, with all four of my Irish mum’s brothers making their way to America and swelling its population.

And that Dubliners and New Yorkers share the same edgy, anti-establishment view of their world.

Sign of the times

Window to the world: The portal

But there is a line that’s been crossed and spoiled the fun for all those stepping into each other’s worlds.

Whether looking out of O’Connell Street into Broadway or back the other way.

All of which brings up again the Holidos and Don’ts of proper responses at tourist sites and historic attractions.

Particularly following a trip last week to the Hollywood sign.

Or at least as close as you can get which is about 800m.

Getting a jump on it: Hollywood sign

Now it’s only 50 years since we could all, if we were fit enough, clamber up to the sign.

Before antisocial types forced the authorities’ hand through graffiti and desecration of the site.

Now if you try to get near the sign the LAPD will warn you off by loudspeaker that you will be fined $3,000 for your troubles.

Not that that seems to deter folk as we witnessed on our trek in the Hollywood Hills.

Please do not touch

Rock of ages: Uluru

The same has become true of Uluru, Ayer’s Rock to the old father-in-law when he lived out there and went walkabout.

Sometimes, of course, it’s mere overexcitement that causes people to go too far.

And mean that the guardians of the Pere Lachaise Cemetery have now had to put a glass screen over Oscar Wilde’s grave in Paris.

Or entitlement as pushy photographers try to capture a corner of a cherub on the Sistine Chapel.

Of course, alas, tourist desecration is nothing new with the original Vandals, a tribe from the East, sacking Rome.

And generations helping themselves to Classical infrastructure lying around for their own home.

We should be grateful then for what is left and how complete the centrepiece of that other Classical powerhouse, Athens’ Acropolis is.

No thanks, of course, to Britain, who hold on graspingly to the Elgin Marbles.

Reach out across the oceans

A little corner of NY: In Dublin

Now, coming back to the question of today and our cri de coeur…

Modern technology allows us to reach out across oceans to the descendants of those who left generations ago and could not come back.

So play nice on the Dublin-NY portal because remember they’re brothers by a different mother, sisters by a different mister.