Countries, Culture, Ireland

The story of Ireland

It’s the story of Ireland, their story, written by those who were there and left it here for us in books, plays, films and the land.

With Paul Lynch and Paul Murray upholding the tradition of Irish storytelling with Booker prize nods, Fáilte Ireland have mapped out the nation’s literary landmarks.

And it is by visiting those places beloved and referenced in the literary giants’ works that we get inside their minds and see their souls.

Some that no matter how much inspection still take some untangling, but it’s still fun to try.

The Joyce of Dublin

Home James: The James Joyce Centre

James Joyce remains the most universally-acclaimed Irish writer and proudest promoter of Dublin of any of them.

Joyce sets the first chapter of Ulysses around the old Martello tower of Sandycove, half an hour from the city, where Joyce once lived.

Joyceans can climb the winding stairs of the James Joyce Tower and Museum and read letters, photographs, rare editions and personal possessions.

Before, of course, you head into Dublin and relive Leopold Bloom’s day.

And then check out the original manuscript of Ulysses and much more such as Samuel Beckett artefacts at the Museum of Literature Ireland.

Super Yeats

Poet WB Yeats, shares with Joyce and Beckett the accolade of a Nobel Prize for Literature and he has left his mark.

From Sandymount in leafy South Dublin to his beloved west coast.

The building named for him in Sligo where you can take in a permanent gallery.’

And the ‘Stand where he stood’ tours which combine poetry, drama, history and the landscape of Sligo.

The Tree of Life

Now our antecedent authors were so aware of their own genius that they literally carved their names into the country’s furniture.

At the Autograph Tree and Coole Park Visitor Centre & Gardens, Gort Co. Galway.

And so the greats of the Irish Literary Revival at the start of the last century, Shaw, Synge, John, Hyde, Russell, Yeats, O’Casey and Lady Gregory.

Ulster says yes

Seamus Heaney too reached the pinnacle of the literary world as a Nobel Prize winner and the best place to feel his spirit is in his beloved Ulster.

Donegal is the same landscape that inspired Seamus Heaney.

And a stay in The Song House, previously The Poet’s House Teach na nAmhrán, will likely release the poetry in you.

Heaney’s fellow Ulsterman Patrick Kavanagh is hailed the island over and his statue on a bench by the Grand Canal in Dublin is a personal favourite spot.

But for Kavanagh fans there is more, much more than Raglan Road which you can discover.

Up those country roads at the Patrick Kavanagh Centre, Co. Monaghan.

The Kavanagh Trail follows Paddy’s footsteps down winding lanes and through his beloved back fields.

While a guided tour is available, booked in advance.

Peig it

Of course, for all the charms of Nobel Prize winners and the masters of the Irish Revival the one author every Irish schoolboy and schoolgirl knows is Peig Sayers.

Peig’s story of her life is a staple of the Irish school curricular and shorthand for everyone who has been through the system (take a bow my two) when they meet anywhere in the world.

Writers Wall in Dingle Town, Co. Kerry, pays tribute to authors from the Chorcha Dhuibhne Gaeltacht and Blasket Islands.

It features quotes from the famous Irish language writers of that region

While you can also take a detour to Listowel, ‘the Literary Capital of Ireland’ to visit Kerry Writers’ Museum

So wherever you go in the island you can see the story of Ireland in its landmarks… and that’s what they wanted.

 

 

Countries, Ireland

Dún Laoghaire Harbour Trailblazing

It’s Dublin’s seaside resort which has spent a lifetime reinventing itself and here again we see Dún Laoghaire Harbour Trailblazing.

Dún Laoghaire has seen a lot of changes in its 350 years from a clan fort to the gentrified coastal suburb it is today.

Not least in its name from Dun Lerroy to Dunlary to Dunleary to Kingstown to today’s nomenclature Dún Laoghaire.

Pronounced the same but ‘as Gaeilge’, or in Irish, since 1921 the early days of the embryonic Irish Free State.

Cannonball run: The DL pioneers

Which we all know has evolved into the Republic of Ireland.

The new interactive Dún Laoghaire Harbour Trail with Failte Ireland helps you to explore the changing history of the town and nation

A town very close to my heart from my 13 years in Ireland.

And celebrated even longer back in our family for hosting my Dear Old Parents’ wedding back in 1956.

Follow the trail

Mais oui Dún Laoghaire: Napoleon

The trail consists of ten key points of interest along the coast and down the east pier.

It also captures some of the best views of Dublin Bay and complements the newly launched Dublin Coastal Trail, more of which later.

The DL trail is of course more, much more, than ten touch-points, it will be 350 years of history.

So if you want to situate Ireland in the Napoleonic, Crimean wars and British royal history then this is your route.

Grandstand it: At the Bandstand

Start your journey at the entry point to Victorian Dún Laoghaire, the Pavilion… and no, not the mall it gives its name to.

Visitors have been stepping off the train to enjoy the sea air here since 1837, its then-terminus.

Before it later moved out to my old stomping ground of Greystones in Co. Wicklow.

Walk this way

On a pedestal? Old royalty

You a fan of Victoriana then the second stop-off on your trail takes you to a cool fountain.

And its owls, cranes, griffins, shields, lions, and crowns, all topped by the winged horse, Pegasus!

Right we always encourage you to share some of the load so won’t be going through all ten stops… so check out the DL site.

But as keen historians naturally pause awhile at the King George IV Monument.

And a royal visit to the town in 1821 which resulted in the changing of the name, for a time, to Kingstown.

DL (sorry, we’re being lazy here) clearly played its part in British muscular foreign policy much like today.

The route: Footsteps of history

And you can see a Russian cannon in DL which saw action in the Crimean War of the 1850s.

Look out too for the Romanov family crest of a double eagle and crown.

We naturally want to celebrate DL people more so and you can at Pioneer Point with nods to its innovators, trailblazers and rebels.

Take Rat: Bob and the Boomtown boys

And Bob Geldof and his Boomtown Rats and Ronnie Drew of The Dubliners are leading such figures.

The piers naturally stand out from the town.

And it is 2,600m to the end of the East Pier and back.

And don’t forget to tip the Battery wall at the end of the pier with your foot – a local tradition.

Dublin on the horizon

Ship comes in: In Dún Laoghaire

Of course as much as we will be looking back into DL we will obviously want to gaze around the coast.

And that is where the1960s bronze and mosaic Dublin Bay View Finder will help you.

Historic: Dún Laoghaire

As it points out landmarks all around Dublin Bay from Howth to Dalkey.

All of which will whet your appetite to explore the whole coastline as I did when I first lived there.

Stopping off at train (DART) stations to check out each individual locales and locals.

All of which has been neatly tied up through the Dublin Coastal Trail.

Our friends in DL though are obviously possessive of their own historical jewel.

And want you to embrace their Dún Laoghaire Harbour Trailblazing.

 

 

Countries, Ireland, Music

Harry FreeStyles in Dublin

I’ve forgiven him for holding up my last leg back from San Antonio as it comes to my attention that Harry FreeStyles in Dublin.

Hip he may be but Harry Styles, these days as big a singing superstars as there is, doesn’t mind getting in with the Great Unwashed.

Harry, you see, did that most South Dublin of things on his travels, the last time he was in the Irish capital.

He jumped into the Forty Foot at Sandycove with the masses.

Bloomin’ cold

Brrrave: The Forty Foot

And in so doing joined such luminaries as James Joyce, his great creation, Leopold Bloom and the landlubber that is your Bandanaman.

In my case I was out as quickly as I got in, Dublin Bay being bracing despite it being the sunniest day of the year on shore.

I had resisted the temptation to join my new compatriots for a few years in my 13 years an Irishman.

Memories of swimming off Spital in Co. Galway as a kid acting as a warning.

Trunk call

In the pink: Harry’s trunks

Well, Harry’s back in Ireland after the UK leg of his world tour.

And his old friends, and ours, at Fáilte Ireland, the National Tourism Development Authority, has marked the moment.

Bunch of Fyffes: The backside

They have only commissioned a bespoke pair of swimming shorts for Harry.

So he is primed and ready to take the plunge in style.

And they have even suggested some prime swimming spots for him to have a dip.

Ooh Bettystown

Just swimmingly: Trunks for Harry

Bettystown Beach, Co. Meath: Now a favourite of my Dear Old Dad who loved a sea swim on holuday

The water here gradually gets deeper, and swimmers can wade in until they find the depth that suits them.

Take a peaceful stroll to the River Boyne at Mornington Beach and watch as ships sail into Drogheda Port.

Best of Brittas

Happy as a sandboy: Brittas

Brittas Bay South Beach, Co. Wicklow: And if Harry likes Sandymount he’ll love Co. Wicklow, maybe as much as we do.

With 5km of powdery white sand dunes, the beach has won and maintained its Blue Flag status for many years.

Carling larger

Harbour light: Carlingford

Carlingford Lough, Louth: Billed as the adventure capital of Louth up the coast from Dublin and Wicklow.

Carlingford is known for its outdoor pursuits and locals love swimming in Carlingford Lough.

At the lake, visitors can take in epic views of Carlingford Castle and Slieve Foye before heading to Sweet Sundaes for their crepes.

Fáilte have flagged up helpful tips to follow before, during and after your swim at www.watersafety.ie which we’re sure Harry will check out.

Greening up: Irish Harry

While for more information, please visit www.discoverireland.ie.

And so keep your eyes peeled.

We know Harry FreeStyles in Dublin and now we could see him in Wicklow and Louth too.

 

Countries, Ireland

Adrian Dunbar in Greystones

Jesus, Mary and Joseph and his little donkey… is that Adrian Dunbar in Greystones, my old stomping ground?

Adrian has long been a national treasure in Ireland, and much loved too now in the UK on the back of his award-winning performance as Hastings in cop series Line of Duty.

All of which Tourism Ireland, Fáilte Ireland and Tourism Northern Ireland naturally know and have got behind him as he promotes the island in his latest venture.

Harbour delights: Greystones and Da Boss

Adrian Dunbar: My Ireland is the Fermanagh actor’s new series which goes to air on Channel 5 this evening, 23 November (8pm).

The two-part series will follow Adrian, who introduced the wider world to some choice Irish phrases such as the above, as he returns to his hometown of Enniskillen.

We’ll join the ever-likeable Adrian as he visits places that hold fond memories for him.

And he will also check out some places he has always wanted to visit but has never before found the time.

Garden of Ireland

Power of Ireland: Powerscourt

And I guess that is where the word went up of Adrian Dunbar in Greystones, Co. Wicklow, the Garden of Ireland.

Mind you there have been one or two celebs there over the years, Ronnie Drew out of the Dubliners, Damian Rice and ahem, yours truly.

Of course, we didn’t need any steer that Adrian was visiting the jewel of Wicklow.

As we recognised straight away the train, its destination and the platform.

From almost 14 years of standing on it… and that’s not far off as the DART (the Dublin Rapid Transport) is notorious for its poor efficiency.

But friendly staff, and I got to know the guards there well.

Dart and craft

On our way to the train: Greystones

So much so that they shared their idiosyncratic Irish wisdom with me on my first Christmas works do.

When I turned up at the DART station at 6pm one evening and booked a return ticket to Dublin, 15kms away.

The guard was insistent that I should get a taxi home or stay the night in Dublin as the last train back was 11.30pm.

Back to Adrian and he will kick off by visiting the towering cliffs of Slieve League, Glenveagh National Park in my mum’s own Donegal and Devenish Island in Lough Earne.

While the world will be his, well… he’s off to the Carlingford Oyster Company in County Louth and visit MacNean House & Restaurant in Co. Cavan in the midlands.

And meet celebrity chef Neven Maguire.

Train of thought

The world’s our… Carlingford

In episode two, which will air on 30 November, he will meet artist Jim FitzPatrick in Howth and another well-known chef, Richard Corrigan – who will give Adrian a tour of his Virginia Park Lodge.

Viewers will see Adrian visit prehistoric Newgrange, verdant Powerscourt Estate and the remote Hook Lighthouse.

They’ll also see him taking that trip on the DART in Wicklow… and remember Isambard Kingdom Brunel (and Michael Portillo) were all over the Bray-Greystones tunnel along the Irish Sea.

And he will cycle across the Kilmacthomas Viaduct on the Waterford Greenway.

 

 

Countries, Ireland

Higgins atop the world in Wicklow

They say the best things come in small packages and piccolo President Michael D Higgins is atop the world in Wicklow.

President Higgins may be only 5ft 4ins but he is astride his country in a way other major heads of state can only dream.

And he stood on the mountaintop today, or as close as you get to a mountain, in my own stomping ground of Co. Wicklow.

Beyond the Trees

A round of applause: For Michael D Higgins

He was there to open ‘Beyond the Trees Avondale’, combining a 2,300ft Treetop Walk with a 12 storey-high Viewing Tower.

Michael D is hugely popular in Ireland and is already into his second term of elected office which will take him to 2025.

The octogenarian academic and patron of the arts and Irish culture would have been in his element in Avondale, home of the King of Ireland.

And you thought Ireland fully broke ties with the monarchy back in 1948 by pulling out of the Commonwealth.

While they had in reality left Britain 100 years ago this December when they became a republic.

The King of Ireland

The King and I:  Parnell back in day

Well, Avondale and Wicklow’s finest, the 19th-century titan, Charles Stewart Parnell, will forever be the King of Ireland.

I’ll be heading ‘home’ for a whistle-stop tour of Dublin and Wicklow next week and hopefully return to Rathdrum and Avondale.

As well as being the birthplace of Parnell, a word too on Samuel Hayes who inherited the estate in 1770 and how he saved Ireland’s forests.

And a historic footnote here that they were once destroyed to build ships for Nelson’s war with Napoleon.

Treeman Hayes

Garden of Ireland: Avondale

Back to Hayes and he is the author of Ireland’s first book about trees.

And he set about creating a forest park at Avondale, which is often thought of as the birthplace of Irish forestry.

Coming full circle, following his death, Avondale was inherited by Parnell’s cousin, Sir John, great grandfather of Charles Stewart Parnell.

At Beyond the Trees you will enter through the new Seed Café into the Walled Garden.

It also houses a Coillte Pavilion, an immersive exhibition.

Walk this way

Architectural delight: The tower

At the end of the Walled Garden, visitors enter the Treetop Walk.

And they’ll begin the journey on the elevated boardwalk, which is up to 75ft above the forest floor at its highest point.

Some numbers too on Avondale’s Forest Arboretum, it features 300-year-old trees planted by Hayes.

The Treetop Walk culminates in the journey to the top of the Viewing Tower, reaching 124ft into the sky.

Slide rule

Child’s play: Watch your step

Did we say too that there was a slide down?

And you can whoosh your way quickly back down via a 295ft slide, providing an exhilarating end to your experience.

Beyond the Trees Avondale is a Coillte, Fáilte Ireland and EAK Ireland production.

And Wicklow, the Garden of Ireland, is a divine production.

So I’d urge you to join President Michael D Higgins atop the world in Avondale, Wicklow, only an hour 20 minutes south.

And the experience will be further enhanced in the Autumn with restoration work and the reopening of Avondale House