Countries

Patrick, the forgotten Kennedy, at 60

It is the denial of potential which knaws, and in this landmark year for JFK a thought for Patrick, the forgotten Kennedy, at 60.

Patrick Bouvier Kennedy is for the most part a footnote in the Kennedy family history presented to the world.

But for Caroline, the last remaining child of President John F Kennedy and First Lady Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy, he was her kid brother.

View of Washington: From Arlington

Who, alas, survived but two days in the August of 1963.

But has rested in peace for 60 more alongside his father, mother and uncles in the family plot in Arlington Cemetery.

And it is Patrick’s little headstone where my eye is averted and the dates August 7, 1963 – August 9, 1963.

On my visit to the Kennedy graveside in Virginia.

Because of the proximity of his gravestone to his parents and that of his passing and his father.

A double grief

The Eternal Flame: JFK and the flame

For me, and maybe others who care to absorb that JFK’s passing was a whole family’s loss, Patrick’s little headstone is also instructive.

As it reminds us that Jackie Kennedy was at the time of John’s death still in grief for the loss of her son barely three and a half months prior.

We can only speculate that it played a part in the decision for her to accompany JFK on his November visit to Dallas.

A day in Dallas: The ill-fated journey

To garner support for the 1964 Presidential race.

We can say too that privately JFK might have persuaded his wife that the trip, with its attendant fanfare and social networking, might help her grief process.

In truth, it proved to be so, judging by the outpouring of love for the First Lady from the public and from the luminaries.

The First Couple

Jackie and Jack: The Kennedys

With this being a First Couple visit to Texas we are told that it had a sense of Hollywood about it.

And that this informed the decision for JFK and Jackie to make themselves so accessible to their fellow Americans and employ an open-roof car.

Without his wife, we can imagine the visit would have been more businesslike and he’d have had the hood down on Dealey Plaza.

Because in the President’s own words at the business brunch that day, November 22, on waiting for his wife he opined:

‘Nobody wants to see what myself or Lyndon (VP Johnson) is wearing.’

Of course, the rest as they say is history.

And so when we reflect and mark six decades since JFK’s assassination later this month.

The family plot

Speaking out: Kennedy

We might also ponder on Patrick, the forgotten Kennedy, at 60.

And who he might have been today.

And that those thoughts might not just be for now.

But when you stand at the Kennedy family plot in Arlington Cemetery.

 

 

 

America, Countries

175 years in Smithsonian

It just felt like 175 years in Smithsonian in the labyrinthian Museum of African American History but I wasn’t complaining.

The 19 museums, 21 libraries, nine research centers, and zoo make up what is affectionately known as ‘America’s Attic.’

Put on a pedestal: James Smithson

James Smithson was a strange cove, a confirmed British bachelor scientist, but it was America’s fortune that he amounted his.

And bequeathed it to the amassment of a collection of museums in America.

A country he had never visited but clearly held in awe.

Washington fixture

Flying high: The Air and Flight Museum

Smithson is a fixture now mostly in Washington DC where they’re on every block.

And Maryland, New York and Virginia.

In fact for someone who never actually set foot in the US capital his name is up there in mentions with The Great Man.

I am, of course, looking forward to hearing which of the Smithsonians The Son and Heir takes in this week on his first visit there.

I’ve pointed him in the direction of the Air and Space Museum on the National Mall which was reserved for our American Travel Fair (IPW).

Alas the Newseum, a testimony to the Third Amendment, was a casualty of Donald Trump,

A strong Constitution

First Nation: The American Indian Museum

There are some holy scrolls that are untouchable, the Declaration of Independence, the US Constitution and the Bill of Rights.

And you’ll know the Constitution’s authenticity with the misspelling of Pennsylvania.

One of the great Smithlothian gems is near the Capitol, the American-Indian Museum.

Where Robert Redford, no less, will narrate you through the history of the First Nation.

And you can browse through indigenous crafts and clothes.

And so with these treasures and much more you could easily spend 175 years in Smithsonians.

Aerican dream

The 47th President of America: In Washington DC

With The Son and Heir and me before him flying out of Dublin with Aer Lingus there’s never been a better time to visit DC.

We can only think the absence of Aer Lingus and pre-clearance back in Smithson’s day is the main reason he didn’t visit.

 

 

Countries, Culture

Vive La Republic of Barbados

I must have been one of the very few kids in Glasgow to be lullabied to sleep with old Republican songs… and because of that and my own journey I’m an avowed internationalist republican which is why today I say Vive La Republic of Barbados.

Now you’ve heard me wax lyrical already many times about the magical island of Barbados and my Kiss With Rihanna  and Rumba  there.

And Bim, as it is affectionately known (hence me being known on the island as Bim Jim) is the talk of the Scottish and British Travel scene with the Bridgetown route rolling out from Edinburgh next month.

Now to celebrate Barbados becoming the latest country to throw off the shackles of monarchy and go out on their own, here’s to all those nations who have taken their destiny in their own hands.

And decided to be governed by one of their own.

Now a true republic, just like a true democracy or a true anything these days in double speak, is a moveable object.

But you’ve got to start somewhere which is why we’re going with 160 (now Barbados have signed up).

All republics lead from Rome

And if you know you’re Classic History, and my Latin is better than my Ancient Greek then you’ll know that republic derives from the two Latin words res and publica (public thing).

So that’s one of the famous things that ‘the Romans did for us’ although, of course, if you’re British then it’s an experiment from which we’ve run far away.

Apart, of course, from a brief period from 1649-1660 when these islands of Britain and Ireland entered into a Commonwealth which was really a theocracy.

But while Westminster claims to be the mother of all parliaments (doubtful, and Europe’s oldest in Iceland might have something to say about that).

It’s Rome which is the mothership of all republics, and we have the good fortune that the Forum, the hub of Roman public life is still there.

No fools those Ancient Romans though with their togas as I found out when I almost fainted in the Eternal City heat in my modern clothes.

An Italian fixture

Venice: And let’s catch a gondola back to Padova

Now where Rome led the rest of Italy followed.

And chief among them was the 1100-year Venetian Republic which still styles itself thus and is hewn into every gondola and the very bricks of the Campanile.

Florence, Siena, Amalfi, Pisa and Genoa all saw what the Doges were doing and how fetching their hats were and followed suit.

But the republicaniest of all the republics and the longest-standing is San Marino.

And so what they lack in football skills (0-10 v England) they more than make up for in their political skills.

La Republique, mais oui

Je suis L’Empereur: Napoleon

Ah, yes, the French. like so much, would have us believe that they are the shining light of Republics.

So much so that they have had five of them ever since Corsican Napoleon got le ball rolling.

Notre ami soon decided though that L’empereur sounded so much better…

And he did that with one arm behind his back (or affectedly tucked in his jacket then).

It must be a poncey royal thing because the UK’s Prince Charles who very graciously decided to attend the signing-over papers to the Bajans (and bag himself some sun at the time) does pretty much the same thing.

And on a tangent we’ll not say anything about the carbon footprint, Prince Save The World.

None of us are perfect, of course, it’s just the rest of us don’t bleat on about it and preach to the rest of us who do hop on planes.

Middle Ages and Middle Europe

žCan I be trusted on a bike? In Amsterdam

The breeding ground for republics in the Middle Ages was what we now know as Germany.

And a quick count chronicles 62 in the northern European powerhouse.

All of which would be a good exercise and excuse to traverse modern-day Germany with a Michael Portillo type notebook.

I’d have to start in my favourite German city Hamburg first of course.

There are some who have gone the opposite way to the Bajans and jumped from republic to monarchy like the Dutch.

Others who have had a brief dalliance with republicanism, Catalonia, and still have hopes of a return to those halcyon days.

Battle hymn of the Republic

Southern men: At the statue of Stonewall Jackson at Manassas

Yes, their eyes have seen the glory of the coming of the Lord.

And while the North eulogised its Republic, the South too held its close to its bosom, albeit for just five years.

That said the Confederate States of America still exist in the hearts and minds of many in the Deep South.

As I found at the Manassas memorial to Stonewall Jackson in Virginia.

And you don’t need me to tell you that that was the first battle of the US Civil War.

Post-colonial

Cool for cats… in the Eastern Cape, South Africa

There were, of course, a rash of republics in the post-colonial world which is where Barbados join us now.

While in Africa and Asia the cry went up for the ‘public thing’ which alas all too quickly became the ‘dictator thing.’

And because of these precedents it ratchets up our hope that the South African Rainbow Nation experiment proves successful despite its challenges.

And the USSR and its satellites

The voice of Dresden: With Ingrid in Dresden

Dogmatic ideologists, of course, think nothing of hijacking the word republic for something that looks nothing like it.

And hovering up previously self-governing nations, which is where Russia came in and formed the bloated Union of the Soviet Socialist Republic.

Unless I find me a time machine a trip back to those days will inevitably elude me, although that’s where museums and heritage come in.

And you can still immerse yourself into the spirit of those days on any trip out there.

Which is exactly what you get when you visit the old DDR.

Now we all know of the Berlin Wall and Checkpoint Charlie but more of us should visit the mural to communism which stands as a reminder of Russian misrule and occupation in Dresden.

Irie, Barbados

It’s a republic, now: With Ruby in Barbados

And so good luck to the incumbent President of Barbados. Sandra Mason, incidentally also the last governor-general.

Vive La Republic of Barbados.

I’ll raise a glass of rum punch to you on the official date of handover tomorrow.

Which is a shared holiday, Barbados’s National Day, and Scotland’s too.

In Scotland, Barbados: Honest

And until my own native land becomes a republic (I’m not holding my breath) I’ll. mark yours, and America’s and France’s.

And the whole lot of you, 160 or so, who have taken the revolutionary step of deciding that you wanted to be ruled by someone of the people.

 

 

Countries, Culture, Europe, Pilgrimage

Holocaust Memorial Day

It was a moral dilemma to test the wisdom of Solomon himself, if bombing Auschwitz would justify the loss of life.

A major consideration was that Hitler’s Third Reich would paint the Allies as anti-Semitic.

History tells us that bombs did rain down on Auschwitz but the damage and deaths to inmates and guards were collateral damage.

Behind the wire: Auschwitz

From a raid on a nearby industrial installation.

It was the Soviets who eventually liberated Auschwitz. 76 years ago today, January 27.

And in the the aftermath of the War the Poles decided to preserve Auschwitz.

Dramatic Dachau

Lest We Forget Auschwitz, Bergen-Belsen and Dachau and the 20+ other Third concentration camps in tbs Third Reich.

Dachau may seem a strange inclusion in a Topdeck Oktoberfest bus booze tour.

But the first German concentration camp left a lasting mark on the Aussie and Kiwi (and one Scot) hard-drinkers.

Manassas battlefield in Virginia

War tourism is not for everyone and its critics decry it as mawkish, but it is for me.

And I would much rather visit the Flanders Fields and the Somme, the American Civil War Manassas battefield, Anne Frank’s House and Dresden than sit on a beach.

Although thankfully they’re not mutually exclusive for the curious visitor.

Old Town Krakow

My passion for history has thankfully been taken up by my family (they had little choice).

And the Son and Heir sought out Auschwitz on his trip to Krakow for World Youth Day.

Of course, you can only truly appreciate the gravitas of these concentration camps by visiting them.

But since we all can’t go we must rely on the witness testimonies of those who survived its horrors.

And those of us who pay our respects.