Countries, UK

The Jack the Ripper story

Mary Ann Nichols would certainly have been forgotten for what she did in life but has been immortalised for her place in the Jack the Ripper story.

Today marks 136 years since Mary Ann, a 43-year-old sex worker, known as Polly, became the first victim of Jack the Ripper in Whitechapel, London.

Before the shadowy figure stopped his murderous spree in November, four other women would die, horribly mutilated.

And, of course, the serial killer, would never be caught, at least not officially.

A memorial to the victims

Hue and cry: Poster of the times

No murderer in human history has elicited such grisly fascination.

With a whole industry Ripperology growing up around the killings.

With reached its apotheosis with the opening of the Jack the Ripper Museum in Cable Street, London.

Which next year will mark ten years since it welcomed its first visitors and first started telling the story.

Of Mary Ann, Annie Chapman, Elizabeth Stride, Catherine Eddowes and Mary Jane Kelly.

An East End institution

The victims: And always remembered

It would, of course, be wrong to say that the museum is in any way altruistic but visitors do get a window into these women’s lives.

Through a recreation of the rooms they lived in and audios and displays of the police station and a newspaper office of the time.

And, of course, a roll of shame of the usual suspects.

Some might say too the Ripper Museum gives a social commentary on overcrowded London in the late Victorian age.

And hear how 80,000 of the poorest members of society, many of them were Irish, fleeing Famine and discrimination.

While the influx of Jews fleeing pogrons in Russia led to a surge in anti-semitism leading many to identify Jack as Jewish.

Cleaning up London

Whodunit? The candidates

The Met estimated in October that there were 62 brothels and 1,200 prostitutes in Whitechapel

Although the families and loved-ones of our five victims never found justice.

The Ripper’s crimes did improve the life of the citizens of Whitechapel.

In the 20 years that followed, the worst of the slums were cleared and demolished.

Although the challenges of Whitechapel continued reaching an apex with the infamous Battle of Capel Street.

Between Oswald Mosley’s Blackshirts and anti-fascist groups with the police stuck in the middle.

Capel Street remembered

Writ it large: Battle of Capel Street mural

Which my own socially-conscious Sadie flagged up and sent me to take pictures of at the mural commemorating the incident.

When Covid robbed her of the chance to join me in visiting the Son and Heir in London and attend World Travel Market.

And I took a day away to sample life in the East End today and enjoy authentic Turkish food.

Thou shalt not pass: International message to racists

And pay respects to Mary Ann Nichols, Annie Chapman, Elizabeth Stride, Catherine Eddowes and Mary Jane Kelly.

And their unwitting part as victims in The Jack the Ripper story. 

Tickets £10 from site for 90-minute tour. 

Or take the Jack the Ripper tour and walk in the footsteps of these historic figures for £15.

 

 

Countries, UK

Downing Street ‘the most famous street’ in the world

All round to Downing Street ‘the most famous street in the world’ for new British PM Sir Keir Starmer’s election party.

Lots of smiles, hugs and glad-handing with Labour helpers to be continued, no doubt, inside.

Now elections everywhere give themselves over to hyperbole.

But the British do self-congratulation better than almost anywhere in the world.

There’s probably a clue in the name ‘Great’ Britain.

Top of every tourist’s list

Flying high: The new PM and the Houses of Parliament

Now those of us who have lived a lifetime (and that’s nearly three score years in my case) are well used to this.

The ‘seat of modern democracy’, the ‘mother of all parliaments’, we’re all familiar with the boasts.

And there’s no doubt that the rest of the world has bought the English in-built ability for self-promotion.

With Downing Street, the Houses of Parliament and Buckingham Palace at the top of every tourist to London’s list.

Drink it in

Streets ahead: Chasing the story

Now while only those, those such as those, and those who look after those get into the PM’s workplace, or that of his neighbours.

Although it was not always so.

As Downing Street housed The Rose and Crown pub back in the 19th century.

Something that was repeated in kind during Covid under Boris Johnson.

Although then it was more of an open house and BYOB with, of course, those who clean up after those putting out the recycling.

You can, of course, look down Downing Street through the gates aspiringly for Sir Keir and Larry the Cat and get your selfie.

By George, Downing’s St

Party time: If the walls could talk

All of which would, no doubt, have pleased Sir George Downing, who served as a soldier under Oliver Cromwell and King Charles II.

And who purchased the land ‘within walking distance of parliament’ to build townhouses for ‘persons of good quality to inhabit’.

Now while you and I clearly aren’t to be considered ‘persons of good quality to inhabit’ or even visit London’s most famous street.

House about that?

Larry for PM: The Downing Street cat

We are allowed to pop into the Houses of Parliament and take a tour.

The standing joke is that they allow anybody in there.

But, of course, that does a disservice to the best of our politicians and statesmen and women.

And to that number can be added my old newspaper boss, John Cooper, new MP for Dumfries and Galloway.

Who I’ll just need to put pressure on to use his new influence.

To get me inside Downing Street ‘the most famous street’ in the world.

Asia, Countries, Deals, Food & Wine, UK

A new Westminster haunt for Sushi Sunak

So where will Britain’s Prime Minister go to relax away from the election hustings… may we suggest a new Westminster haunt for Sushi Sunak?

We’ve all got to know a lot more about the Tory leader these past months and among the titbits is he’s a lover of Japanese food.

And coke, or cola, as he quickly corrected himself in front of a room of kids.

Sushi Rishi may be of Indian heritage but his culinary tastes stretch further east.

Big in Japan

Pinny your hopes on me: Sunak time in Japan

As we discovered when he attended the G7 summit last year in Hiroshima with his wife Akshata Murty (and we’re still trying to find a family link here).

And good sport that Rishi is he signed up for a cooking class to make okonomiyaki.

For those of us who are yet to savour its delights it’s said to be a Japanese pancake.

And so you get a heaped mound of batter, cabbage, noodles and often meat before frying on a hot plate and smother with savoury sauce.

Meaning ‘cooked as you like’ it is widely considered ‘soul food’ in the Land of the Rising Sun.

Now the Japanese restaurants like to fry it in front of the customers.

While it is also common for others to let the customers fry it themselves.

Sushi and sunshine

R&R: After a good meal

Whether Rishi has persuaded the House of Commons or his favourite private clubs to put okonomiyaki on the menu we couldn’t possibly say.

Official Secrets Act and all that.

But we dare say that he would be particularly taken by the new summer season Sushi and Sunshine menu at the Westminster institution that is St Ermin’s Hotel.

With guests and visitors dining alfresco on the revamped terrace, which overlooks the hotel’s lush courtyard.

Where you can graze on freshly rolled sushi designed by Executive Chef John Kouphou.

The exquisite menu offers a selection of Uramaki, sushi rolls with filling and nori seaweed.,

Wrapped in sushi sauce, served with wasabi, pickled gingers and soy sauce.

Tea’s out: Or Afternoon Tea

Each portion contains eight beautifully prepared rolls which include Spicy Tuna (£12), Prawn Dynamite Roll (£12), Classic California Roll (£14), Crab Uramaki (£14), St Ermin’s Vegan Class (£10), and the Executive Chef’s special Beef Uramaki (£12).

Salmon and vegetarian poke bowls are also available on the menu alongside carefully curated Asian-influenced cocktails.

And while Rishi will sipping on his coke through a straw, other guests can choose from… a selection of chosen wines, beers, and spirits, including St Ermin’s London Dry Gin. 

The gin is made from hand-picked botanicals from the hotel’s rooftop garden and honey.

All direct from the beehives and is a refreshing and uplifting alfresco drink.

Rishi’s Bee & Bee hotel

Plush: St Ermin’s

St Ermin’s Hotel is renowned too for its afternoon tea, served in the first floor mezzanine Tea Lounge, which has just completed an extensive redecoration.

Afternoon Tea is served daily in The Tea Lounge and library, 12pm-5pm.

Cost is from £43 per person or £48 per person with a glass of champagne. 

St Ermin’s rightly plays up its history, eclectic styling, rooms and suites.

As well as its enigmatic Caxton Bar and Terrace plus award winning signature restaurant, The Caxton.

The four-star deluxe St. Ermin’s Hotel which is a member of Marriott International’s Autograph Collection.

London life: With everything on your doorstep

And caters for all, with dogs welcome and even bees with resident Buckfast bee hives on the third-floor wildflower terrace.

Which gives rise to calling itself London’s only ‘Bee & Bee’ hotel.

So for the election times that we’re in, it sure sounds like a new Westminster haunt for Sushi Sunak.

St Ermin’s has kindly given us their lead in prices which are: 

So a standard double superior room from £329, family room from £459, suites from £599 and family suites from £599.

And we figure then that a stay at St Ermin’s would be nothing for the generously-off Rishi and his minted Murty wife.

 

 

 

 

Countries, Europe

Meghan an Insta impact on Buck House

And as if we could ever get away from her… a poll to remind us of how a young American back in the day was already Meghan an Insta impact on Buck House.

With the revelation (small beer in today’s world of big royal reveals) that London is the most Instagrammable city in the world.

Because there was a world BC (Before Catherine) in which Meghan was queen which she know doubt would want to be.

Towering: At the drawbridge

And any hagiography about her had to include a picture of her as a young tourist outside Buckingham Palace dreaming and plotting of nabbing a royal.

All of which peregrinations is my way in today to celebrating London as the Insta destination of kings, queens, Z-list American actresses and us little people.

London calling

Beefin’ up: With a Beefeater

Experts at NZCasinoClub analysed numerous city break-related hashtags for European capitals, including #[city], #[city]travel, and #[city]tourism.

With the number combined to create an overall total per city to discover the most Instagrammable European destinations.

London scores 163,530,000 Instagram hashtags with over 2,000 years of history and famous landmarks like Buckingham Palace and Big Ben to get your selfie in front of, although we prefer the Tower.

Paris lights

Ooh, la, la: Les enfants dans Paris

Of course the NZCasinoClub survey is something of a tale of two cities with Paris coming in just behind.

The City of Lights has 141,283,300 Instagram hashtags.

Et naturellement the Eiffel Tower is a must-have selfie while if you want to dodge the traffic you can try for a piccie round L’Arc de Triomphe.

Now, we’ll let the researchers do the heavy lifting here with their table underneath.

Others in the frame

In the picture: Amsterdam

Only to flag up that our favourites Amsterdam, Rome and Prague all figure.

And, of course, we’ve jumped up at the opportunity to be photographed in the Rembrandt Night Watch, on the Spanish Steps and on the King Charles V Bridge. 

But we must of course mention that Ankara features in third, Berlin in fourth and Madrid in 5th.

A victory here for the capital of Turkey over Istanbul and that in itself marks it out as somewhere special.

Ankara, we are told boasts a vast selection of parks, mosques, museums, and performing arts venues dotted around the city and the annual International Ankara Music Festival.

Ja dancer: Berlin

While of all its charms, the researchers flag up Berlin’s visual masterpieces that are a beautiful background for a photo opportunity.

With Kripo’s Yellow Fist outside Friedrichshain station high on that list.

While in Madrid we’re encouraged to get our photies taken outside the Royal Palace and Almudena Cathedral.

All of which our favourite ‘non-working royal’ (most of us who are non-working, are er, unemployed) would have on her list of self-promotion.

Which all started out when she was Meghan an Insta impact on Buck House.

City sights

Bridge of highs: On the King Charles Bridge in Prague

And that list for you…

Rank

City

Number of Instagram Hashtags

1

London

163,530,000

2

Paris

141,283,300

3

Ankara

56,000,600

4

Berlin

53,776,700

5

Madrid

49,639,000

6

Amsterdam

36,359,100

7

Baku

34,930,200

8

Rome

30,237,600

9

Prague

18,871,400

10

Vienna

16,456,700

 

 

 

 

 

 

Countries, Music, UK

Mammy Mia’s final curtain

It’ll be a poignant Mother’s Day this year as I remember Mammy Mia’s final curtain and reflect on the best leading lady.

It’s been six months since Teasy shuffled off the stage for the last time.

And I’ve been replaying her life story in my mind ever since.

Wicked! Laurie, Jimmy and Mammy

Of course, I’ll be forever grateful to have had her in my life.

And I say ‘thank you for your musings for giving them to me.’

Abba days

Blonde ambition: Agnetha

If she was still here with us (physically, that is) we may well have taken her out to a show.

And with The Son and Heir now living in London and being our eyes and ears there that show could well be Abba Voyage.

Teasy would certainly be dazzled by the AI recreations of the super Swedes.

That wonderment never left her throughout her own 94-year voyage.

Just Wicked

Witch way to go: Wicked

Her twinkle at the end would be as bright as the day she watched The Wizard of Oz on the big screen in Derry as a ten-year-old.

In scarcely-believable wonder when Oz suddenly burst into colour.

It was a story she would oft tell us, and many, many more.

What she would make of the prequel Wicked we can only imagine.

I watched it in the Bord Gais Energy Theatre, Dublin and reckon she’d have loved the theatricality of it.

Now the Oz prequel is playing in London’s West End and would make a perfect Mother’s Day gift.

In praise of Prowse

Particularly as Keith Prowse Attractions are handling all of the heavy lifting for you.

With overnight hotel accommodation with breakfast in one of London’s central hotels, for €129pp.

For those looking to extend the celebration, Keith Prowse also offers a two-night package.

Magic for every Mammy and particularly if yours is Wicked!

Countries, Europe, Food

A tale of deux sittings London and Paris

It’s the best of times… well, you know the rest, it’s a tale of deux sittings London and Paris.

But what Le Dickens, the French will be choking on their consomme as les rosbifs have only pipped them in a poll of top European foodie cities.

Dutch lifestyle magazine Dailybase analysed Tripadvisor data to uncover the number of 5-star reviews for eateries in 193 European cities.

And the Big Smoke came out on top with 2,906 5-star reviews for restaurants, cafes, bars and pubs.

Paris has 2,898, ahead of Barcelona 1,475, Rome 1,407 and Athens 1,403.

London calling

Towering: London landmark

Dailybase flags up London’s traditional pub culture where you’ll find homemade pies and roast dinners.

As well as a host of Michelin Star restaurants to tantalise your tastebuds, making it the perfect destination for your next city break.

And I still get drawn back to Punch and Judy in Covent Garden where we got my post-university American odyssey underway with a long-gone pal.

Seine choice

Ooh, la, la: Paris memories

Foodies are obviously drawn to French pavement cafes and to their specialities in Paris.

Such as escargot and entrecôte, a premium cut of steak to relish with chips in top-rated French bistros.

Although maybe stay away from the expensive Left Bank.

Ramblas rambler

Told you: Barcelona institution

Barcelona boasts terrific tapas, and those moreish patatas bravas, cubes of potato in a spicy tomato sauce.

And as well as the classic rice dish, paella. 

And a shout-out here to My Fucking Restaurant, an Aussie high-end eaterie on Las Ramblas. 

Eternal sitting

Drink with the gods: In Rome

Rome ranks fourth, with 1,407 reviews awarding the Italian capital city 5-stars for its food and drink joints.

Dailybase recommends traditional pasta carbonara and cacio e pepe, two simple yet flavourful spaghetti dishes.

While we’ve got our own fave trattoria by the Pantheon.

Greece is the word

Tree-mendous: Greece

Just behind in fifth is Athens where you have to dig into the savoury souvlaki.

Which are skewers of flavourful meat grilled over an open fire, alongside the minced lamb dish moussaka.

We’ll pass over the Athens bistro where we got stuck in a lift for half an hour and had to get hoiked out by firemen.

And instead point you in the direction of the Athens Riviera for the last word in veggie and salad.

So, really it’s more than a tale of deux sittings London and Paris.

Because central to a city’s delights is its food.

 

 

 

 

Countries, Cruising, UK

On the banks of the Thames

A lot of water has passed under the bridge since I first washed up on the banks of the Thames.

With liquid lunches and post-work drinks taken in Reading’s leafy neighbourhood of Caversham.

The flow of time has seen us move on since I first took up a pencil in anger.

And she snapped the great and the good and was deservedly garlanded.

Taking the wheel: On the Thames

But still Old Father Thames rolls on and sometimes I roll on a cruise on the river.

Now you wouldn’t expect me to have to get the tube through London.

Le Boat comes in

Leafy: The Thames

And boats of all shades and sizes drift down the river.

With our old friends at Le Boat more than holding their own with those around them.

Meandering down from royal Hampton Court.

Down through our old Reading and Windsor stomping grounds to Oxford’s dreaming spires.

Drive it yourself

Let it flow: And a gentle cruise


And why? Because they are offering savings of 15% off all boating holidays for next year.

When choosing budget and comfort boats for short breaks of three to six nights.

And boating holidays of seven nights or more, when booked before Christmas Day.

A self-drive Le Boat cruise allows holidaymakers to explore the western section of the river.

Here, moorings are easy to find and the distance between locks is greater than at the river’s eastern end, which means more cruising.

A royal cruise

Water sight: Scenic backdrop

Stop at King Henry VIII’s home at Hampton Court, head to his successor Charles’s Windsor for a tour of the Castle.

Or visit Eton College, where 20 prime ministers were schooled.

A seven-night self-catered cruise on the River Thames, departing on 25 March, starts and finished at Le Boat’s base at Benson.

On board a Caprice sleeping up to six, is priced from £1,539/£256.50pp (£1,819/£303pp,saving 15%).

Transport to and from the base is not included.   

So whether you’re taking a trip down Memory Lane (and a memorable Christmas party cruise) off the Piper’s Island pier.

Or you’re a first-timer get away from it all on the banks of the Thames.

 

Countries, Pilgrimage, UK

London’s shelter from the storm

You’d be forgiven for missing it, drawn by Nelson’s monument and Trafalgar Square, but for the down and out St Martin in the Fields is London’s shelter from the storm.

For all the rich history of Westminster Abbey and St Paul’s Cathedral it is St Martin that is opening its doors, not to the tourist but the needy.

My needs on a rainy afternoon in the capital, a bowl of soup and a coffee. are nothing compared to those who live on London’s streets.

But I am tempted by the sign London’s cafe in the crypt.

And lose myself for the afternoon in the St Martin’s story of befriending the most helpless Londoners, those who live on the streets.

Tales from the crypt

All that jazz: Music in the Crypt

The cafe crypt is no ordinary coffee shop.

For one it has multiple food stations for ordinary Londoners and visitors to stack their trays for lunch.

While the arches, alcoves and the names of those once buried here beneath your feet give an unmatched atmosphere.

But this is a cafe with a mission and you get a sense seeing the unkempt vagrants mingling with the old ladies who dine.

Solemn: The Dick Sheppard Chapel

And again when you visit the Dick Sheppard Chapel and see a shoeless homeless man stretched out sleeping in the front row.

I leave him in peace while for the rest I read about Rev. Dick, former esteemed vicar of this parish.

Tour de fields

Golden delight: The church

And fortuitously arrive at the church doors just in time for guide Steve to fill in the gaps.

The first record of St Martin in the Fields Steve tells us is in the 13th century.

When monks were granted permission by the high heid yins of Westminster to set up a hut in the fields.

Generations have stayed true to the example of the saint who gave his name to the church.

Martin was as so many of the church’s early pioneers were a convert.

A Roman cavalryman his Damascene moment was when he encountered an emaciated beggar.

Sing it loud: Hymns sang beautifully

Martin instinctively ripped his fancy cloak in half and gave one half to the down and out.

Of course that wasn’t the end of the story and Martin had a vision in the night when an apparition of a begging man approached him.

And thanked him for saving his life.

On closer inspection Martin noticed the image of the man was that of Jesus.

Heart of gold

Steve regales us of the history and architecture of the church.

How it inspired Queen Anne and Victoria and points out a rare plaque she had dedicated to the nanny of her children.

Anglican St Martin departed from the Catholic tradition of ornate iconography, imagery and stain-glass windows.

Its only nod to finery the rolled gold theme to symbolise Martin’s act of charity.

And the crucifix in the shape of the torn robes is a simple but strong message.

Quite what you’ll make of the South Window and its tilting oval at the centre of a number of lines is anybody’s guess.

Mine was that it was an Easter Egg while Steve suggested a common response was a pebble with ripples.

But much like the Iranian architect who came up with the idea after the windows were damaged in the Second World War the point is to stir our interest.

There is definitely a sense of possibilities in St Martin.

A mission from God

Pie and Mass: The Crypt fare

And Peter Benenson felt it when he was sat here wondering how to use his legal acumen and was inspired to found Amnesty International.

While the homeless charity Shelter started here too.

St Martin offers an outreach service to the homeless on its complex.

And will on November 9 hold a service to mark the 1,000 homeless people who have died on the streets this year.

So if you’re visiting London as a tourist then why not forego the branded cafes for the St Martin’s crypt.

The food and company are warming and like me you might learn a thing or two (and £1 of your bill will go to help the homeless).

And how it is for so many London’s shelter from the storm.

 

Countries, UK

For Fawkes sake Bonfire Night as a holiday?

And because I like a Catherine Wheel as much as the next guy I ask here for Fawkes sake Bonfire Night as a holiday?

Well, they’ve remembered, remembered, remembered the Fifth of November every year since 1605.

When Guy Fawkes and his fellow conspirators tried to blow up the British king and his parliament and spark a catholic revolt.

That failed plot was mandated as a public holiday right up until 1859 and willingly since, in Britain and most of the Commonwealth.

Of course those once part of a British Empire, Ireland and the American Colonies, have shaken off the jingoistic British tradition.

And those considering splitting from the monarchy, Australia, have long since stopped burning effigies of Fawkes too.

Very modern plotters

Light up: The Houses of Parliament

But if the burning of Guys is your thing and who doesn’t like a fireworks display?

And it has been for millions since they switched from burning effigies of the Pope and priests in the 18th century to Guy Fawkes.

Then enjoy your fireside marshmallows, fireworks, funfairs and mulled wine.

Because it’s better burning effigies rather than real priests as they did back in the day.

Say it ain’t so: The Speak of the House

Of course 400 odd years has done little to assuage the public’s distaste for their parliamentarians.

Although thankfully we can bomb them out now at the ballot box.

And safely (we hope) protest outside the Houses of Commons and Lords as we will do on Tuesday at the royal state opening of parliament.

A plague on all your houses

Clowning moment: Charles and Camilla

And mai oui, plus ca change as Fawkes et son amis (hoity toity Englishmen parler francais then).

Because it was precisely because the king and his parliament were all in the one place at the time that the plotters acted then.

Now those who are joining the Republic protest against the royals on Tuesday, as the king gives his speech, want fervently to bring down the House of Windsor.

Through the force of argument and the people’s will.

It’s a hot subject, much like those bonfires.

London calling

To the Tower: A prisoner of fortune

But one thing is for sure, the focus will be on London, as it so often is, so take it all in.

And if you’re visiting the Big Smoke you can even book a tour of the Houses and take in a sitting.

Even if this republican and my peaceful plotters say For Fawkes sake Bonfire Night as a holiday?

 

Countries, Culture, Deals, Europe, Music, UK

Rumble again in London’s Jungle

It was an occasion when I was just 8, and was allowed to stay up and watch, and now they’re ready to rumble again in London’s jungle.

Muhammad Ali’s world heavyweight championship fight with George Foreman in Kinshasa, Zaire, on October 30, 1974 was a one-off global event.

Only it wasn’t a one-off… here we are reliving it through the Rumble in the Jungle Rematch.

In the Dock X warehouse in Canada Quay.

It’s billed as an immersive theatrical retelling of an event that transcended sport.

And became a cultural, political and musical focus in which we can now participate in 2023.

Get on, get on up

Fun and James: James Brown


The music fan will love getting their groove on and tap their feet.

To a soul-stirring blend of African, North American, and Latin melodies.

From the likes of James Brown, Sister Sledge, Celia Cruz, and Miriam Makeba live!

The theatre troupe will whip up the hype ahead of the fight.

Listen to Ali’s legendary press conferences and gruelling training.

And meet the locals who chanted Ali Bomaye (Ali, kill him).

As he went on his training runs in the Zaire countryside.

Best seats on the house

The Louisville Lip: Ali

Before you take ringside seats.

And experience the big fight and Ali’s rope-a-dope tricks.

Through precision performance and breath-taking physical theatre.

And just like back in 1974 when an Ali fight brought in everybody.

From grannies to kids the Rumble in the Jungle rematch is a real family affair.

Now with tickets costing £29.50 and the show running until December 9 Rumble in the Jungle rematch is one to add to your London diary.

A thesps’ playground

King for the day: Don King

Of course, the Big Smoke boasts all human life and a troupe of thesps out there to put on a show about it.

Whether it’s the West End and say, Beautiful, the Carole King Story.

Or another guilty pleasure the Son and Heir has lined up for us.

Because he knows that what use is sitting all alone in your room, come hear the music play.

Life is a Cabaret old chum… and I love a Cabaret.