Countries, Culture, Europe, Ireland, Music, UK

Rainy Days and Songdays – Roll Over Beethoven

And because this week I’ll be hooking up with my German pals for a virtual celebration of Beethoven, this being the 250th anniversary of his birth, I give you the classics.

Ear, ear Beethoven

This one’s for Elise

Beethoven, Teplice, Czech Republic: And you’d expect to see Ludwig in this wellness town back in the 18th Century.

Because Bohemia was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and Vienna and Prague were musical centres where Germans flocked to.

I paid my tribute to The Great Man this year at the Beethoven Spa Hotel in Teplice where he stayed, and his room is still there for him.

And he got treatment for his ears, tried out some funky horns and left his death mask.

We also tried out the titular cafe, and the hot chocolate and chocolate cake for research purposes. An empty piano awaited the maestro.

If Beethoven had written a Fur Katarina I’d point you to that in celebration of our host and my pal, but we have the equally enchanting Elise, so here’s Fur Elise.

Rock me Amadeus

Eine Kleine Sadie Music

Mozart, Salzburg, Austria: And, yes, the Austrian singer Falco toasted Mozart with this hit.

A Wiener, he was what Mozart wanted to be, though almost certainly not in musical terms, but certainly in his origins.

Wolfgang was no fan of his home place, Salzburg, which he thought had a small-town attitude.

High standards. We loved it on out ski trip to Soll (it is a Sound if Music Mecca too).

Although the museums are too spread out, you do get right under Wolfie’s skin ;and hair). Here’s Eine Kleine Nachtmusik, pretty much the only German I know.

Vivaldi’s Veneto

The Dragon, Constsnce and Bandanaman in Venice

Vivaldi, Padova/Veneto: And for many, particularly the Eighties generation, punk violinist Nigel Kennedy, and his rendition of Four Seasons, was it for classical music.

I don’t know if Kieran ‘The Dragon’ who was in our party in Padova was an aficionado but he took casual chic to a new level.

I take some responsibility as I’d wheeled him and fellow Venice newbie Constance out to Lagoon City.

We were back late but had each taken a change of clothes while Dragon was still in his boardies.

While the orchestra were kitted out and the waiters and waitresses too in the sumptuous Padova Botanical Gardens.

Anyhoo, here’s an excerpt of L’Autunno from Il Quattro Stagione.

Boheme Rhapsody

Raising the roof: Prague

Puccini, Prague: And long before rockers namechecked cities, the Classical composers were doing it.

Whisper it, the opera is set in Paris, the Bohemian bit is the fun label attached to what are modern-day Czechs.

And so, for me, the ideal place to watch Giacomo Puccini’s Classic is the State Opera in Prague.

Everybody loves to party in Prague, monks in the Strahov Monastery Brewery and priests swigging Champagne during the intermission at the State Opera.

Handel with care

No cats or mice allowed

Handel Dublin: And George Handel chose Dublin, the second city of the Empire, because he felt the London audiences had started to take him for granted.

No shrinking violet George, there was a statue to him erected in Dublin while he was still alive.

The premiere was packed and ladies were asked not to wear hooped dresses so as to allow more in.

That show was performed at the Musick Hall in Fishamble Street. Now you’ll want to go to Christchurch Cathedral for your opera fix.

But not the place for a cat or a mouse whose mummified remains are on display in the cathedral’s crypt…. they’d got stuck in the organ.

It’s immortalised in James Joyce’s Finnegans Wake.

Anyhoos Christ Church Cathedral puts on recitals and thanks to my friends at Travel Department we channeled old Handel one balmy evening.

Countries, Culture, Deals, Europe

Venice – the City of Masks

They know all about plague in Venice and what happens when you don’t heed social distancing.

But the City of Masks survived it before and they’re not about to have it curtail their lives any more than they have to.

Hence them coming out in full regalia for their famous regatta.

Here’s a choppy history of Venice but be buoyed by their recovery.

Stick your oar in

Quarantino in Dubrovnik

The Italian word for 40 days (but you knew that already, si?) it was first implemented on the Adriatic port city of Ragusa which is modern-day Dubrovnik.

And sailors and traders in 1377 were told ‘they should not enter [Ragusa].

Or its district unless they spend a month on the islet of Mrkan or in the town of Cavtat, for the purpose of disinfection.’

It was actually started as a trentino (30 days) but got extended, partially because of science but also because of religion.

Survivor: Dubrovnik

Because 40 days was always the Biblical go-to number and it was thought that locals would get on board with that better.

The Plague Doctor

Now you’ll have seen these in the shops in Venice.

But luckily for you nobody in person wearing them, or in full cloak, hat and mask (unless you’re at Carnivale).

The bad news for you back in the Middle Ages was that the menacing Black Doctor wouldn’t cure you.

The general practitioner might but the Plague Doctor would be an enumerator, counting the casualties.

Oh, no, he’s come for me

He looked after himself, of course, filling his mask with aromatic herbs in the hope that it would keep him safe.

Thought for the day: it didn’t.

The Plague island

While you relax with your Cappuccino or Aperol Spritz by the Rialto Bridge you’ll be oblivious to those poor souls.

Those who would have given their lives for the soothing balm of a glass of water.

Those who were plague-ridden and were sent to the island of Poveglia.

The Island of Ghosts

The Island of Ghosts where they sent their virulent, 160,000 of them over the centuries.

Classic Boats Venice will take you there and show you around, and it is only ten minutes from St Mark’s Square.

Who was that masked man?

Yes, who was that masked man, you say?

The big one, of course, is the Carnevale which you can look forward to, from Saturday, January 30- Tuesday, February 16.

Venice may have its grisly past but it makes mask-wearing fan.

And maybe come back with a Plague Doctor’s Mask.

If nothing else it could keep the In-Laws at bay. Maybe!

Fresh Aer

And who to go to Venice with?

Well, Ireland’s national airline carrier, Aer Lingus has Venice, down from €45.99 to €29.99 for September. See terms and conditions.

And if you like The City of Masks then why not check out The City of Frescoes, Padova, up the water.

MEET YOU IN THE ALLEYS

 

 

 

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Holidos and don’ts – sat-nav and maps

My father-in-law is a topographer, he loves maps so much he takes them to the bathroom… even though he knows the way.

It was his great misfortune then to be dumped with the most directionless son-in-law on God’s Green Earth.

I blame me, my compass of a wife, me, other people, and, er, me.

And sat-nav.

Watch those corners. Photo by Анна Галашева on Pexels.com

My Scary One also takes after her father and one family holiday saw her arguing with Siri as we navigated ourselves around Bristol.

And, of course, Sarah won over Siri.

I thought was a Godsend at first when I first discovered it but it has turned out to be a temptress.

And like all sirens it stops you thinking for yourself and leads you into the rocks.

Now which side is the dark one? Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

Whatever did the ancients do without sat-nav, what with that outdated path they call the stars and the sky?

Despite living in Ireland for 13 years I still get lost in Dublin and end up resorting to Google Maps.

Only I then have no internet and am loath to turn on Data Roaming.

While there’s also the risk of getting run over crossing the road while listening to Siri’s directions.

Modern gadgets. Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

All of which can be fixed with a map.

Only I never know what’s north, what’s south, what’s left, what’s right… in fact being a rightie I always turn right.

And then the map also gets turned around in your hand by a gust of wind.

Anyone for Venice?

Or because of folding and refolding it gets torn and worn at the corners just at the point you want to go.

I dropped my beard in the lagoon

The best city map was our Venice guide http://www.venezia-tourism.com which came with a compass.

And if you’ve ever been to the lagoon city (and if you haven’t then why) you’ll know that its maze of lanes will soon see you lost.

Without help.

This is what happened when I took time out from my trip to Padova to show my friends the Great City… https://jimmurtytraveltraveltravel.com/2019/09/15/padova-city-of-frescoes/

And https://jimmurtytraveltraveltravel.com/2019/08/11/give-us-this-day-padova/ and https://jimmurtytraveltraveltravel.com/2019/09/15/give-us-this-day-st-anthonys-teeth/

All of which is a reminder, and The Scary One’s aunt is constantly telling me… I should always bring the wife with me.