Countries, Culture, Europe, Food, Food & Wine, Ireland

Raising the Bar

And Sadie, you’re going to be the one that saves me.

Oasis (maybe)

Oasis are belting out their pub standard and I’m putting my own spin on it.

Of course, it’s not the actual Gallagher brothers themselves, but three hipsters who make up the house band, and one of them is on a banjo!

And it’s not a mega stadium, but just off the Liffey.

‘Cause after all, this is Temple Bar.’

And it’s Valentine’s Night so every tune is a rousing anthem.

I’ll have my usual

While you and your loved one may have been gazing adoringly into each other’s eyes in your favourite Italian restaurant last week, and maybe even in a restaurant in Italy, I had taken my beloved to Dublin’s party hub

Obviously hoping to spend it in a sports bar… Celtic were playing that night.

Rush hour

And they’ve even got the Scotland flag out

Now before I have the massed regiments of womenkind taking up arms against me, we did do the romantic dinner bit.

With an eight-course tasting menu at the Morgan Hotel before we went out on the town.

I had arrived from the office with seconds to spare for our sitting, after working up to the wire.

All overheated from a lower walk from my work in Ballsbridge, three and a half kilometres away.

Herself? She was as fresh as a daisy.

The refurbished Morgan is sat plumb on Fleet Street, next to the Hard Rock Cafe, but is a haven from the throb of humanity that populates Temple Bar, day and night.

Like much of Temple Bar itself it’s multi-national and its staff are bursting with life.

All the world is here

Busting a move: With Oliver St John Gogarty

I joke with Spaniard Sonya at reception when she tells me that my wife is upstairs and I ask if she is alone.

And then there’s our waitress Anastasia who smiles patiently as we dither over cocktails…

A special Valentine’s frothy concoction just whets our appetite for another with ‘Mother Gin’ Herself trying out a Ruby made from Ha’Penny Rhubarb Gin, apple, lime and lemon juice with a basil leaf.

All on medicinal grounds you understand… as she was quick to point out that it had said on the drinks menu.

Now, clearly we don’t go in for tasting menus at home… because somebody’s specified chores are dish-washing.

Catch of the day

Melt in the mourh

But there is something particularly civilised about taking small portions, and your breath, between dishes.

The dishes at the Morgan restaurant, 10 Fleet Street, are beautifully created and almost too good to eat.

But eat we did, mackerel, salmon, duck, roast pork cheek, and king scallops and bream, and even the Baby Beet Salad they slipped in there when they didn’t think I was looking.

Glowing from our cocktails… and with some credit in the bank from giving Herself my uninterrupted attention for once at dinner time I went in search of my football match.

Surprisingly though, for all that Temple Bar is Party Central my attempts at finding a pub with the game on were proving fruitless.

The Temple Bar hostelry was jumping, but not with rowdy football supporters but good-natured music-lovers, cooing couples and young people just there for a good night out.

The best bar none

Every hour is cocktail hour

And while I half-expected the playlist to be all diddly-aye music, the band’s set was rockier.

They are an eclectic bunch in the Temple Bar tonight…

We share holiday reminisces with Amsterdammer Sandor until he either tires of my attempts at engaging with him on the Ajax game the previous night.

Or because he is diverted by a pair of brown eyes.

Now Temple Bar isn’t cheap and it is wise to pace you drinking with a pub crawl perhaps the best idea.

It also helps you clear your head.

Buskers, our next stop, strikes me as a little too modern for our lining… and what do you know, the singer is only playing Wonderwall.

Hat’s not fair

Something for the palate

The Oliver St John Gogarty is perhaps the best-known pub in Temple Bar and for research purposes we end our night there…

Probably because to go on would have meant having to sell a vital organ to afford another drink.

It’s busy, yes, and loud, ditto.

But the Temple Bar revellers are mostly good-natured, although if a fatter ‘Phil Mitchell’ tries to meet your vacant gaze by the side of the stage then it might be best to find another place to stand.

That, or be prepared for a delicate spot of diplomacy to get your hat back.

Perhaps feeling guilty at the prices of their drinks they did hand out little bowls of chips and a sausage roll.

Because eight courses back in the Morgan was never going to be enough.

*The Morgan Hotel http://www.themorgan.com/http://(00353) 1 643 7000. The Morgan is running a spring offer of 30% off room-only rates on bookings until March 31 (valid on stays until December 31) from €150 per room.

This article was first published in the Irish Daily Mail in 2019.

The Menu

Rose petal: Absolut raspberry vodka. Chambord, rose syrup, lime jice pineapple foam.

Torched cured mackerel fillet: Cured mackerel filled, dried lime, caper berries, lime gel, lime oil.

Gin & Juniper Cured Salmon: Cucumber escabeche ribbons, pepper drops, fennel sour cream, rye crisps.

House smoked rare duck: Bumblebee mixed leaves, yellow pepper coulis, heritage tomatoes, lavender, lavender oil.

Baby Beet Salad: Beetroot yoghurt cream, beet brittle, pomegranate, orange segments.

Slow Roast Pork Cheek, King Scallops: Sea salted baby kale, garlic baby carrot, blackberry & basil gel, port jus.

Baked filled of bream: Sweet potato crisps, orange cauliflower, sweet pepper dressing.

Whiskey smoked pear: Caramel droplets, cardamon infused saboyon.

And if you want to check out a great Dublin institution in rugby heartland then here’s my review of the InterContinental Rugby central, it’s the InterCon… what a Ledge!.

*This article was first published in the Irish Daily Mail in 2019.

What’s your favourite Dublin hotel? Let me know and we’ll share.

Countries, Culture, Deals, Europe, Food, Food & Wine, Ireland, UK

Dans La Rue en France

La Scary One does all the driving from Chez Murty.

She grabs hold of the inside lever on the door as soon as I turn the ignition on.

So as not to hurt my feelings she says it’s because she taught me how to drive.

Red-hot

The owner of the French Fiat 501 firm in Mandelieu-La-Napoule was less diplomatic The Boat D’Azur.

Does this car look big in me?

And after I’d stalled his car in the car park for the third time, with its gearstick on the dashboard, he put his hand out for the keys.

There was a frosty drive around the French Riviera until we met up with our hosts again.

A pool all to yourself?

All of which circuitous route from A to B brings me round to Airelles’ three and seven-night road trips in the South of France https://www.france.fr/en.

Chateau living

Where you’ll stay at Airelles Gordes, La Bastide in the hilltop village of Gordes, Château d’Estoublon, a stone’s throw from Les Baux de Provence and Château de la Messardière, a stone’s throw from Les Baux de Provence and Chateau de La Messardiere in St Tropez.

Al Fresco dining

Airelles is naturally flagging up the culinary delights of France and its spas which Le Scary One would be all over.

A week to remember

But as thoughts during lockdown turned to dream trips she did put in a request for lavender fields which is just what Airelles is offering.

And drinking

The seven-night road trip breaks down into:

Two nights in a Superior Valley Room at La Bastide, Gordes,

And a further two nights in a Residence at Chateau d’Estoublon, Les Baux-de-Provence.

Room with a view

And three nights in a Superior Seaview Room at Chateau de la Messardiere, St Tropez.

From €7,000 (£6,250) based on two sharing. Full board (excluding drinks).

Un jardin to yourself too

Three-day trip

The three-night road trip includes:

Enjoy one night in a Superior Valley Room at Ka Bastide, Gordes.

One night in a Residence at Chateau d’Estoublon, Les Baux-de-Provence.

And another night in a Superior Seaview Room at Chateau de la Messardiere, St Tropez.

From €3,000 (£3,125). Full board (excluding drinks).

Food for thought

And they’ll throw in daily picnic baskets with lots of goodies in them. The trip is flexible around your needs and dates. Visit experience@airelles.com.

America, Canada, Countries, Culture, Europe

Get an eyeful of these high-rise buildings

My Uncle Eddie pointed up… that’s the World Trade Center? Where I asked?

Two cranes of the neck later and there it was, touching the clouds. I was dumbstruck.

As the French announce the reopening of the Eiffel Tower https://www.toureiffel.paris/en/news on June 25 here are my five top tall towers.

Highful Tower

Mais oui

The Eiffel Tower, Paris: The best things in life are worth waiting for.

And when the rigging was up around the Eiffel Tower when me and my buddies visited France post-school I missed out.

I never imagined that it would take another 30 years before I would get another chance.

It was made all the better because ma famille was with me. Bravo! See https://en.parisinfo.com.

Two for the price of one: The Twin Tower’s. www.history.com

Up, up and away

The Twin Towers, New York: You always remember your first time… an ear-popping experience at the top of the World Trade Center.

They say in NY that you can always tell who the tourists are because they’re the ones looking up.

True! But equally thrilling is looking down at the specks of people and the moving yellow taxis.

NY has an abundance of iconic buildings but the Twin Towers will always be magical.

Today you can visit One World Trade Center https://www.wtc.com/about/buildings/1-world-trade-center. And also check out www.nycvb.com and https://www.google.ie/amp/s/jimmurtytraveltraveltravel.com/2020/03/28/old-new-york-hamilton/amp/.

Turn, turn, turn: The CN Tower

Canada high

The CN Tower, Toronto, Canada:

The CN https://www.cntower.ca/en-ca/home.html was taller though at the time.

And as luck would have it my brother was living up there at the time.

We didn’t get to eat at the revolving 360 restaurant but you always need to leave yourself with something to come back for.

See https://www.seetorontonow.com.

A positive sign: Prague

Clock this

Astronomical Clock, Prague: Not the tallest tower, of course, but the Astronomical Clock should also be seen from the inside too.

Where one American loudmouth kid got more than he bargained for.

As our guide shot back at him that her city had been bombed.

I love those sparky, big-drinking Czechs. See www.czechtourism.com and Hope springs eternal.

City of Brotherly Love

Philadelphia storey

One Liberty, Philadelphia: The cityscape of Philly reveals this buzzing metropolis in its best light.

But it is as much the story behind One Liberty that is as enthralling.

It revolves around the Curse of Billy Penn.

Which was placed on Philly’s Big Four Teams after One Liberty Hall was built, higher than the-then tallest building which houses a statue of the founder of Pennsylvania.

Only one thing for it, put Billy back in his rightful spot on a beam on the Comcast Building, higher than anybody in Philly.

He approved and the tams started winning again. And I saw all their achievements in an exhibition too.

See https://www.visitphilly.com/articles/philadelphia/must-see-attractions-philadelphia/ and Philadelphia Freedom

America, Countries, Culture

Rainy Days and Songdays – This little light of mine

Take my little light round the world. I’m going to let it shine. Let it shine, let it shine, let it shine.

I was all for the tearing down of the Berlin Wall (doh!) but on the whole I’d prefer to see construction before destruction.

Which may be why I instinctively balk against the current spate of tearing down statues.

The other reason is that it has the whiff of McCarthyism about it.

I think we can say, and achieve, more through the civil disobedience mantra of Gandhi and King than the Malcolm X call to arms.

So if you want to see how best to deal with racism go to the Deep South and Jackson, Mississippi where civil disobedience still means something.

At the epicentre of the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum https://www.mdah.ms.gov/2MM/ is an interactive rotunda experience where This Little of Light of Mine plays out.

You’ll go though a history of oppression and resilience along the way and pass, of course, remnants of Ku Klux Klan and Jim Crow.

The 20s Gospel song which was taken up by the Civil Rights Movement is played on a loop.

It is a simple, defiant stance but it sums up what has gone before it, the Freedom Rides, the Diner sit-ins, the King speeches.

The America www.visitusa.ie most of know from the movies and take back from our visits is a New York or California dream.

As much as I love both it is the Deep South where we see the heart and soul of this great nation

And where I will return and return to as I continue my journey to Dr Martin Luther King’s Promised Land… https://www.deep-south-usa.com and The Promised Land.

You won’t blow my little light out… https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cKkbIZtqhyQ.

America, Caribbean, Culture, Europe, Ireland, Pilgrimage, UK

The Sunday Sermon –

“I will sing to the Lord all my life; I will sing praise to my God as long as I live” (Psalm 104:33).

Psalm 104:3

But when will we be able to sing again in church?

I have long sung lustily and croakily and in the wrong place and always find that the service is less uplifting when the organist or the choir are off.

But that is what we’ll have to put up with when our churches reopen, initially for private prayer and funerals.

A hotel with its own church… on the road to Rome

The sound of a stirring choir has lifted me in cathedrals and smaller churches on all the pilgrimages I have been on… A pilgrim’s prayer, Small roads lead to Rome, The Lourdes prayer and What’s the story, Medjugorje? Wouldn’t you like to know.

There is a gravitas to the singing as the botafumeiro swings from side to side in St James’s Cathedral during the Pilgrims’ Mass at the end of your Camino Ways walk http://www.caminoways.com.

But the real stirring stuff comes from the black gospel singers on the other side of the Atlantic.

And yes, I know we have them over here but they’re not in the same number.

I’d been chasing the choirs unsuccessfully on my travels and was disappointed to have to miss the Southern choir in Jackson, Mississippi https://www.deep-south-usa.com and The Promised Land because our flights back through Texas clashed with the choir.

Mas took precedent over Mass during Crop Over on Barbados http://www.visitbarbados.org. And Mas is a party.

But I did get to take in said choir in Anaheim https://disneyland.disney.go.com/destinations/disneyland/ at our street breakfast party http://www.visitcalifornia.com.

Before finally getting to a church in Tobago https://www.visittobago.gov.tt Ready, steady GOAT… racing in Tobago.

MEET YOU IN THE PEWS

Countries, Culture, Europe, Ireland, Oceania, Sport, UK

My Sporting Weekend – Rugby’s back in New Zealand

It was a rite of passage at my rugby-playing school in Scotland…. going to watch the touring New Zealand All Blacks in Edinburgh.

And I was counting down from weeks out to see Graham Mourie’s all-conquering rugby team finish off their itinerary at Murrayfield.

And listening to Timmy Teague’s promises that he would go onto the pitch and do the pre-war Haka war dance with the players.

How I felt on a rugby field

I got a flashback of Timmy as I heard of the return of rugby to the Land of the Long White Cloud with the Highlanders beating the Chiefs 28-27.

Highlanders’ fling

A thrilling match with the Highlanders stealing it at the end.

And best of all it was played out in front of 20,000 rugby nuts, with no need for face masks or social distancing.

The Land of the Long White Cloud

Nirvana, and a country where we’ll all be flocking to www.newzealand.com when we get the chance.

I have a hankering to visit Mangaotaki and the other locations used by Peter Jackson for Middle-Earth in Lord of the Rings.

Where my old colleague and singing partner from Rising Star Karaoke Bar https://www.universalorlando.com/web/en/us/things-to-do/entertainment/rising-star-karaoke and Aaawlando… Orlando, the rollercoaster capital Eoin played rugby.

Lord of the throw-ins?

‘Mr Brightside’ loved it and also learned the Haka… every rugby team in New Zealand practises it in training.

Stick your tongue out

Timmy could have done with some practical too… he was hopefully out of sync.

But he did do it. And the police allowed him back in to watch the second half of the game.

Hakademic really

He’d have been as well missing it. Scotland were hammered.

The All Blues: Not quite the same and Scotland take a beating in Dublin

But there’s nothing new about that.

Now you want to explore how to get out there.

Jimbo and Tommy Bowe. www.emirates.com

Well, I’d always recommend G Adventures www.gadventures.co.uk while check major airlines for flights and conditions.

MEET YOU AT THE GAME

Countries, Culture, Europe, UK

Freeday Friday – Braveheart Wallace’s Scotland

And few fought fiercer for freedom than William Wallace.

Which is why I didn’t baulk at retracing the Great Man’s footsteps when doing a recce of Stirling for Daddy’s Little Girl.

Falkirk Bridge In miniature

Battlefield history is perfectly placed for a return – after all where is there more expanse than a battlefield?

Killer Bs: Burns, Bandanaman and Bruce

Unless, of course, you’re an English soldier stuck in a muddy burn (that’s a Scottish stream) a long way from Chipping Norton.

Stirling, if you’ve never been, is a mini-Edinburgh https://www.google.ie/amp/s/jimmurtytraveltraveltravel.com/2020/02/17/edinburgh-an-old-friend/amp/ with its own castle, a better monument, the Wallace as opposed to the gaudy Scott on Princes Street.

My friend William

And, best of all, it’s where the Scottish nation was reborn on the fields of Bannockburn on June 24, 1314.

Which you’ll know from watching Braveheart.

When an army of 8,000 hairy-arsed, skirty-wearing Scots defeated 20,000 Englishmen.

Stirling Castle

Only Wallace wasn’t a 5ft 9ins Australian.

Otherwise he wouldn’t have been able to wield that great Claymore sword which put the fear of death up the enemy at Falkirk Bridge.

You want to come up and visit, Do.

I’d advise though to stay at the Portcullis https://www.theportcullishotel.com next to the Castle.

The Portcullis Hotel

Rather than The King Robert https://www.kingroberthotel.co.uk, named after King Robert the Bruce), just off the battlefield… it looks more like a motel.

If you want a more authentic experience still I dare say that you can find a campsite and imagine yourself pitching tent just like those soldiers of old.

In the presence of greatness: And Robert the Bruce too

See https://www.stirlingcastle.scot/visit/, https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/bannockburn and www.visitscotland.com.

MEET YOU ON THE BATTLEFIELD

Countries, Culture, Deals, UK

Yorkshire – God’s own country?

Or says my ferret-keeping, Yorkshire-pudding eating, cricket-loving, trainspotting, call-a-spade-a-shovel father-in-law.

And, of course, I got dragged down there by the Scary One.

Truth is that the Dales and Moors are beautiful and the National Railway Museum https://www.railwaymuseum.org.uk is interesting, even if you aren’t a gricer (trainspotter).

The full Bronte

And you can even indulge your Bronte passion at Haworth https://www.bronte.org.uk/the-brontes-and-haworth/haworth.

Yorkshire in miniature

Wuthering Heights is The Scary One’s all-time favourite novel.

And she has fond memories too of Frances Hodges Burnett’s Secret Garden.

And is looking forward to the August release of the titular film starring Colin Firth and Julie Walters which is filmed in ‘God’s Own Country.’

Garden time

The five-acre Helmsley Walled Garden located along the ruins of the castle, near Ripon, dates back to 1756… so I hope they weed it regularly.

There will be a train along soon

To mark its release how about this package which includes Helmsley, the National Trust-run Fountains Abbey and Grantley Hall?

Grantley Hall’s two-night Secret Garden-themed deal will run between August 1 and October 31, starting from £990 based on two sharing a double bedroom.

You can stay for the night from £385, including breakfast.

The real Dales

Or why not have a blowout and do the bells and whistles Week in the Dales package from £2950, based in two people sharing.

The Dales. www.visitnidderdale.co.uk

Also see https://www.grantleyhall.co.uk/uploads/documents/GeneralDocuments/Grantley_Hall_Protocols_-_Covid-19.pdf.

And to celebrate all things English let’s delve into the archives and https://www.google.ie/amp/s/jimmurtytraveltraveltravel.com/2020/04/23/happy-st-georges-day/amp/.

Countries, Culture, Europe, Food

Hungry and Thursday – sweet, sweet ice cream

King Henry VIII’s Greensleeves means two things to me… Miss F’s slow wedding march and the ice cream van.

Just why Tudor music should be the go-to tune for ice cream vendors I’ll put out there for you to chime in with an answer.

But I rather enjoy the image of Henry running out in his padded garb for his 99.

And I suppose it could happen… on a film set. And I dare say Jonny Rhys Meyers and Damian Lewis like a double nougat or a screwball.

Porty’s finest

Did you know though that the 99 was created just up the road from here?

In my old stomping ground of Portobello, Edinburgh’s town beach https://edinburgh.org and www.visitscotlsnd.com.

Arcari claims to be the birthplace of the 99 with the number that of their address in Portobello High Street.

Where Stephen Arcari broke a chocolate flake in half and put it on the ice cream

Hundreds and thousands please

An alternative explanation is that it comes from slang, 99 meaning excellent and alluding to an elite guard of 99 soldiers who served the King of Italy.

The Pope’s fave

Now I don’t know about the King of Italy but our Popes have been partial to a gelato, or ice cream.

We have the Good Book, the Vatican Cookbook, as our holy scripture here which tells us that Pope Francis loves an Argentine fave dulce de leche and its caramel flavour.

And he knows his flock loves gelati too, being known to hand out 3,000 ice creams to Rome’s poor and homeless.

And some raspberry sauce

All of which kept my mind occupied as I stood socially distanced in my queue.

Walk this way

And for a quick and invaluable guide on Rome and how to get there by foot with Francigena Ways see www.FrancigenaWays.com, https://www.rome.net and Small roads lead to Rome.

MEET YOU IN THE QUEUE

Africa, Countries, Culture, Europe

Olof Palme and a South African township

On the face of it you wouldn’t imagine that a Swedish politician would pose much threat to Apartheid South Africa.

Or that his assassination would kickstart enduring links between Sweden www.visitsweden.cim and a Port Elizabeth township.

Olaf Palme, one of the greatest leaders anywhere of his generation, is being talked of again as his killer is on the point of being identified.

Olof Palme Street back in the day in Port Elizabeth

Some 34 years after he was gunned down coming out of a Stockholm cinema after watching a film with his family.

A different time

Olof’s crime – he supported the ANC and wanted to shut down oil and arms supplies to Durban.

At a time when the West was either complicit or diffident in their dealings with South Africa Olof said, and did, the right thing.

Man of peace: Olof Palme. www.abc.au.net

And the black South Africans have never forgotten that.

In New Brighton, Port Elizabeth, the country’s oldest township they named the street on which the Red Location Museum sits Olof Palme Street.

To the Rainbow Nation

The only residents in South Africa to do so.

Olof’s legacy

Olof’s family have become firm friends and benefactors to the poor, but proud, residents of the Red Location since.

To Nelson Mandela: In PE with Siseko

Which I discovered when I visited Nelson Mandela’s home state, the Eastern Cape last year. https://www.southafrica.net/uk/en/ and Day in the life of a township and What’s new pussycat?

Further research (and I do go the extra mile for you) reveals that there are two dozen countries where Olof is thus honoured.

Just why Stoke-on-Trent in the English Midlands are the UK’s standard-bearers I’ll just have to get back to you on.