Countries, Ireland

Shell out on Dublin’s Shelbourne

We’re back among Irish Travel’s Movers and Shakers which is why our TravelMedia host Michael has seen fit to shell out on Dublin’s Shelbourne Hotel again.

The historic hotel which fronts onto St Stephen’s Green.

And is guarded by a top-hatted and suited doorman.

And at times in its storied life too by an armed battalion when those revolting locals set up a trench in the park.

With British soldiers taking up positions on the rooftops to protect their guests.

Probably not what the Great and Good had in mind for their Easter weekend treat in 1916.

But an extra offering all the same… a chance to be there for the birthrights of what would become a new republic.

Nelson disarmed

Look: Luke Kelly, of The Dubliners

The proclamation of independence, for all of us who know the chronology of those days, was of course declared at the GPO on Sackville Street.

Rechristened since as O’Connell Street.

And adorned with its own heroes, all of which spelt dust for poor old Admiral Nelson…

Toora loora loora loora loo!

Which was how trad legends The Dubliners immortalised the blowing up of his statue in song.

The bearded balladeers having formed their band.

Around the corner in O’Donoghue’s, off Grafton Street, on Merrion Row.

Grafting on Grafton Street

Getting our Phil: With friends at Phil Lynott’s statue


Grafton Street hums to the sound of buskers to this day.

Bono has been known to turn up unannounced while Phil Lynott stands sentry outside the Bruxelles bar on Harry Street.

Where it is compulsory to take visitors for a picture and leave a guitar plectrum for the Great Man.

The hen party I’d unwittingly spent the morning with at Edinburgh Airport.

As we’d sat through four gate changes and a three-hour delay are headed for Temple Bar.

But that’s for the tourist beer parties in search of Paddywhackery.

And willing to pay double for the privilege…

Real Dublin swarms around the pedestrianised shopping hub which connects Merrion Square and Stephen’s Green.

Famine and Feast

Memorial: The Famine statue

Merrion Square boasting the statue of Oscar Wilde reclining with inscriptions of his works alongside.

And Thomas Wolfe Stone, early insurrectionist and Constance Markiewicz, soldier of the Rising and the first female elected MP to the House of Commons.

Her sentence of execution was commuted to imprisonment.

Before she benefited from the amnesty of prisoners released after the Irish War of Independence.

There are ghosts in this here place.

The most poignant of all the million Irish mothers, fathers, children and grandchildren who died in the Potato Famine of the mid-18th century.

Whose loss is forever remembered in stone in Stephen’s Green, opposite the Shelbourne.

There is too a photographic and artistic exhibition to the Famine.

On the top floor of the Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre.

Two Michael Collins

Fly the flag: Shelbourne Hotel

But that will be for my next visit ‘home’… time presses.

Do I feel guilty that I will be feeding on the best meats and sweet treats and fine wines.

Across from a statue to one million dead?

Where the British military had holidayed that weekend.

I console myself that it was here in the Shelbourne, in Room 112.

That a committee chaired by Michael Collins, drafted the Irish Constitution.

To ensure that the sacrifices of those like Easter Rising martyr James Connolly, like me an Irish-Scot, Ireland were not in vain.

We are in good hands, brought together again like so often, by the inimitable Michael Collins, descendant of that Michael Collins.

For a reunion with our American friends and more of that later.

And great statesman of our Irish Travel industry.

Who thinks only the best of us too and will always shell out on Dublin’s Shelbourne Hotel.

 

 

 

 

Africa, Asia, Countries, Europe, Ireland, UK

The 22 Committee and all things 1922

We’ve heard of little else in the UK all week so let’s do a deep dive into the 22 Committee and all things 22.

The 22 Committee, or 22 as it’s come to be shortened to.

It’s the group of backbench, or rank and file, MPs who have hastened the leadership contest.

In Liz they Truss: Liz Truss

Put aside that there’s something arcane about a committee called the 1922 in charge of the direction of travel in 2022.

Or not…

Let’s time travel and compare where we were in 1922, where we are now, and where we can compare.

The Irish Question

The Big Fellow: Michael Collins

Dublin: As 1922 dawned, Ireland was still in the UK, was about to become a Free State and halfway in was engaged in Civil War.

Irish history breathes from the streets.

With one of the most dramatic statue-lined thoroughfares anywhere in the world.

The GPO where the Proclamation of the Republic was announced in 1916 is halfway up O’Connell Street and has a museum.

While the Collins Barracks where Michael Collins oversaw the transfer of power from Britain should be on your route.

As should Kilmainham Gaol where the rebels of Easter 1916 were held.

And in whose exercise yard the Scot James Connolly was shot strapped to a chair.

The Scottish Question

Bloomin’ Rosé: Nicola Sturgeon

Edinburgh, Glasgow: And in 1922 Scotland had parked its self-government ambitions promised them in 1914.

Like the Irish they put it on hold because of The Great War.

But unlike their Celtic cousins they took a different fork in the road.

Scotland’s bloated cities, particularly its largest Glasgow where living conditions for most people were a heath risk, rose up.

There was a riot in George Square in Glasgow in 1919.

And three years later Red Clydeside socislist MPs had got a foot in Westminster.

These days their descendants, Nicola Sturgeon et al are more pink or rosé than red.

They sit in the devolved Scottish Parliament in Holyrood, Edinburgh.

It is open for visits, tours and gawking at the MSPs.

All roads lead to Mussolini

Pass the Duce: Benito Mussolini

Italy: And Il Duce, Benito Mussolini, heralded in an era of Fascism.

When his March on Rome led to him taking power.

Mussolini still has a rather big footprint in Italy in a way unthinkable say with Hitler in Germany.

I’m reminded by my guide Ingrid in the rebuilt Renaissance City of Dresden.

Where a mural of Communist icons survived the Fall of the Berlin Wall.

That if we airbrush history we open ourselves up to repeat it.

And Mussolini’s stark self-aggrandising architecture in Bergamo, my last Italian pit stop.

It only reaffirmed the beauty of the Renaissance art around it.

While dark tourists, of which I am one, will learn more of Italy between the wars.

In his home town of Predappio in Emilia-Romagna.

Hello Uncle Joe

No ordinary Joe: Joseph Stalin

Georgia: And on the other side of the great political divide Joseph Stalin succeeded Lenin in charge of the newly-created USSR.

The first Soviet Union including Belarus, Ukraine, Belarus and the Transcaucasian Republic of Armenia, Azwrbaijan and Georgia.

Stalin had started out on his reign of terror in Georgia.

As a Russian Mafioso fixer (who does that sound like?) and bank robber.

Fly the flag: With Irish Georgian ambassador George

And despite his history of repression and cull of his own people Stalin is still marked in his own republic of Georgia.

But don’t let that put you off.

Georgia is the original home of wine, has a rich culture and Black Sea coastline to savour.

Toot and come in

Ya big Egypt: Tutankhamun

Egypt: And in 22 the British unleashed some dark forces.

No, not in the return of its latest Tory PM, a Scots-educated leader in Bonar Law (now you know).

But in Howard Carter’s discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb and its riches in the Valley of the Kings.

It was a momentous year for the Egyptians.

With the ancient land gaining independence from the UK and Fuad I crowned king.

Whether the Tories elect us a Mummy PM, a first BAME Premier or someone who again is too male, too stale a thought here.

Bonar Law lasted but a year.

His successor Stanley Baldwin a year too, before Britain got its first Labour PM Ramsay MacDonald.

All things to consider for the 22 Committee and all things 1922.