America, Countries, UK

Edinburgh and San Diego a tale of two doggies

They’re separated by an ocean and a continent but they’re mutt brothers… here’s Edinburgh and San Diego a tale of two doggies.

We’d never dream of passing by the statue of Greyfriars Bobby, made a freeman of the city, on George IV Bridge, without a nod.

Although the city’s burghers have long been fighting a losing battle trying to stop people rubbing his nose.

A Bum note

Golden couple: With Greyfriars Bobby

Less heralded but just as deserving is Edinburgh’s ‘other’ doggie statue, Bum.

Bum, like Bobby whose story so charmed Walt Disney he made a film about him, has a home in a graveyard.

In Bobby’s case it is Greyfriars Kirk, or church, next to his master ‘Old Jock’ on whose headstone he slept for 14 years.

Lean into it: Raeburn’s piece de resistance in the National Galleries

In Bum’s case it’s the still older St Cuthbert’s Graveyard, in West Princes Street Gardens at the foot of Edinburgh Castle Rock.

And along from the National Gallery which has its own faithful dog and generous benefactor story.

That Bum is commemorated here at all, and we’re very glad he is, is down to Edinburgh and San Diego being twinned.

The best of mutts

Everything in Princes Street Gardens is rosy: My anniversary girl

And canineophile councillors on each side of the Atlantic tightening the bonds formed in 1977, thirty-one years later.

And who can blame them if they got a trip out to each other’s city for the ceremony?

So, for those not from San Diego or Southern California, here’s Bum’s story, and quite a tail it is too.

Where Bum came from nobody knows, he arrived as a stowaway into San Diego in 1886.

Pooch pals

Bum’s the word: St Cuthbert’s Churchyard

But where he was headed for was the hearts and history of the San Diegan people.

Who took him in, fed him and even treated him we injured his leg in a dogfight… hence the stump you see in his statue.

The half-St. Bernard, half-Spaniel mascot became such a part of San Diego life.

That when the city issued its first dog license, an image of Bum adorned it.

San Diego Doggo: Bum in Pocket Park
Bobby on tour: In San Diego

We’d like to think in a different world these two survivors Bobby, the Skye Terrier and Bum, the crossbreed, would have been firm friends.

At least the San Diegans think so, bringing them together with their own plinths in Gaslamp Museum Pocket Park.

The real thing: Bum

And us too, as we passed ten minutes in the sun with new friends.

Jim, a C&W singer, and Andrea, from San Diego next to Edinburgh Bum’s statue.

Just spitballing about Edinburgh and San Diego a tale of two doggies.

 

 

Countries, UK

Wish you were Vermeer… in Edinburgh’s National Gallery

Wish you were Vermeer… in Edinburgh’s National Gallery Johannes is, Vincent is, The Glasgow Boys are and the New England masters.

Those who have come to see me to share the state of their five states and one Commonwealth.

All of which I have come to love since I first started visiting there 36 years ago.

Only the New Englanders’ flight is running late and our morning meeting has been pushed back to the afternoon.

Giving me longer than I’ve ever had to saunter around The National Gallery.

Despite having lived in Edinburgh’s seaside resort of Portobello for ten years.

And now four years back in Scotland, and staying in North Berwick just down the east coast.

Art of the matter

Hit the Jackpot: Jack Yeats in the National Gallery in Dublin

Filling in a couple of hours in the art gallery before travel meetings became a regular pastime in my 13 years in Ireland.

When I would lose myself in the Da Vinci sketches, the Impressionists and the Jack Yeatses in the National Gallery of Ireland in Dublin.

For Dublin 2010s, now read Edinburgh 2020s when two and a half hours is still not enough…

To truly appreciate the Renaissance, the Impressionists, all of Scottish art and the Flemish and Dutch masters.

Virginal territory

Veil of snivels: A take on Vermeer

Centrepiece when I visit is the Vermeer on loan from the National Gallery in London, Lady Seated at a Virginal (there’s a Vermeer exhibition in Dublin too btw).

One of only 34 canvases the Delft artist painted, your eye is immediately drawn to Lady at Virginal.

For her similarity to her more famous compatriot Girl With A Pearl Earring.

And for those already asking the question, I did the same of our guide, a virginal is not a comment on the model’s virtue.

But a rectangular spinet, or harpsichord, with the strings parallel to the keyboard which were popular in Vermeer’s day.

Playing to the Gallery

Way to Gogh: Vincent’s Olive Trees

Now while the rest of the world seems still seduced by the Mona Lisa smile in the Louvre.

I would be more taken by Johannes’ women and would advise anyone either living in Edinburgh and its environs.

To take an hour or two out of your day, or tour, to visit Lady at her virginal, and Cupid with whom she shares the frame.

Spend time with Rembrandt or go a wandering into Van Gogh’s or Monet’s fields and Canaletto’s Venice.

And scoot along to the minister skating on the ice or maybe learn about The Glasgow Girls.

Yes, women painted (and still do) and at last galleries like Edinburgh and further afield have come to recognise that.

Dreaming of New England

Sound as a Mound: The Scottish Cafe & Restaurant

As for the New England masters I picked up that Bostonian JS Copley had a part to play in bringing the glory of the military hero Lord Duncan to our attention.

And that he was a compatriot of Benjamin West whose painting Alexander III of Scotland Rescued from the Fury of a Stag by the Intrepidity of Colin FitzgeraldI also scanned on my trip around the gallery.

As for the other New England masters, well I wish they were Vermeer… in Edinburgh’s National Gallery.

But they were half a mile away from here, here being The Contini Scottish Cafe & Restaurant at the National Gallery.

By George: And Contini by George Street

No, not to be seen in this prime spot on The Mound, next to Princes Street, near the Sir Walter Scott Monument, above the Princes Gardens and on the doorstep of Edinburgh Castle.

But rather in the parallel thoroughfare of George Street in Contini’s sister restaurant.

I did break bread with Visit New England, Connecticut and Newport, Rhode Island.

And even in the short time I still had left learned how New England is still leading the way in the worlds of sport, culinary and the revolution.

All of which, of course, I’ll share with you.

MEET YOU ON THE ROAD

 

America, Countries, Europe, Skiing, Sport

A broom to sweep the Alpine bar

You trudge the peaks to the top of Europe only to be handed a broom to sweep the Alpine bar.

This broom though is a curling accessory, you have a stone in hand and a circle on the ice rink to target.

It’s not what you’d expect when you are escorted through the curtain of the Ice Bar.

At the top of the Jungfraujoch in Switzerland.

But you’ve got a Swiss dram (yes, really) at the bar.

To warm and energise you for your initiation in the ancient Scottish game.

Ice bowls

Sweep crack away: The Curling

Aye, ice bowls, as it is sometimes dismissively referred, was invented (as everything is) in Scotland.

When an ice skating religious minister glided across Duddingston Loch…

Well, that can’t be proved definitively.

Scottish style: The Skating Minister

But do check out the Henry Raeburn painting at the Scottish National Gallery in Edinburgh.

Curling has us in our grip every four years when Scots Olympians take over Britain and our curlers swap their Saltires for Union Jacks.

Alas, just like golf which we also gave to the world, the world learned to do it better.

As evidenced in Beijing just now.

A Scottish gift to America

Stone me: And a bullseye

And we’ve struggled recently to replicate the success of Golden Girl Rhona Martin from the Salt Lake City Games in 2002.

Unsurprisingly as the Scottish footprint is all over the States the Americans are among the world’s leading curling nations.

And news comes to us from winter sports centre Lake Tahoe of how much more they put into the game and all winter sports.

With 17 of the US team calling the base in the Nevada/California border calling Lake Tahoe its home.

Learn to curl

Dark Destroyer: Curltime Jimmy in Switzerland

Helpfully the good folk of Lake Tahoe are offering help to curl and saying you’ll be able to show off on the next Zoom meet.

The rest (to get out there) you’ll have to ask your friendly neighbouring travel agents about.

Drams are made of this: Whisky in the Alps

Now, if you’re lucky enough to live in Scotland then you will be able to take your first baby steps in winter sports.

I’ve done it myself and yes with my old friends in Ireland Topflight for Schools, it has led me to the Winter Olympics.

Bavarian Games

Get your skis on: Channeling the 1936 Games

Albeit Hitler’s 1936 Games at Garmisch-Partenkirchen in Bavaria.

Where pictures of the winners adorn the walls of the showpiece restaurant in the town.

A page in history: German Olympic winner

And the centrepiece is the ski jump.

Maybe better sticking on firm ground (or ice).

Hand me a broom to sweep the Alpine bar.