Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

El Niño Camino the rain in Spain… but I won’t complain

Day 1: Starts with a splash. El Niño Camino the rain in Spain… but I won’t complain.

Because I’ve said my decade of the rosary, just as Mum would do in the driveway at the start of our annual pilgrimage to Ireland.

And the predicted storms have stayed away which is just as well as we trek through the woods.

Jimmy the conkerer

Brothers in arms: With Ed in the woods

The only threat from the skies is from the conkers and acorns being blown off the trees and round my head.

Our walk to the woods from Tui has been, in truth, seamless bar for a left turn (isn’t there always?).

Where a kind driver interrupts his journey.

To point us back in the right direction.

We could, of course, have trusted in our other senses.

With the skirl of the pipes a familiar sound to Scottish type people like us.

Galicians being, of course, fellow Gaels, and fond of a rendition of Amazing Grace.

For a token of appreciation for which you’ll also get a stamp for your Camino passport.

Food for thought

Bridge too far? Taking a breather

We picked up another earlier on, and randomly a banana.

And by now, and still early on, I have a front page filled.

From our first night billet, the local pharmacy, and the second stop, 18kms that way, in O Porriño.

We take shelter from the first droplets of rain in Tapas y Vinos to refuel.

The Way, The Truth and the Life: The Big Je has your back

And for my walking companion, Big Brother Ed, to shake his head in appreciation.

At two doorsteps of a beefy ham sandwich and two Americanos for under €12.

We are, unexpectedly, further along the way than we’d imagined… on the apron off Azur Hotel in O Porriño.

Candles in the wind and rain

Light up: The candle operation

I feel compelled to thank Him for keeping us dry and safe.

And say a prayer at the first church in town, it looks like there’s one on every corner.

And light a candle and pray for all the requests I’ve been given ahead of my 100 mile Camino Portugues to Santiago with CaminoWays.

The candle stand is clearly well thumbed and suggests a 20c donation.

I fluff my pockets and find a 10c but there’s no cutting corners in the House of God.

And the candle only comes on when I put in a 20c which puts the Church in profit.

And me with another sin to walk off en route to Santiago.

 

 

Countries, Europe, Pilgrimage

Old the border for 720 years

And while the rest of the world has been trying to keep each other out here’s where they decided to old the border for 720 years.

We have, of course, the 1297 Treaty of Alcañicas to thank for the Portuguese-Spanish border, weas if we need to tell you that.

But we reckoned that milestone needed marking.

Viva Galicia: Just over there

Which is why you see me stood here on the Valença International Bridge or Friendship Bridge.

Taking my first steps from Portuguese Valença over to Spanish Tui on my Portugués Camino.

Which conveniently for us, that’ll be me and Big Brother Ed, is 116kms to Santiago de Compostella.

Long enough to qualify for another Camino passport to go with my Frances Way one from 11 years ago.

A day in Portugal’s fortress town

Spell it out: On the Portuguese side

Now, seeing we’ll only be in Portugal overnight we’d best have a look around.

Where we find a horde of Spaniards from just over the Minho trawling along Rua de Mousinho de Albuquerque for cheaper linen.

For all that the two countries have been at peace for 620 years.

There is a visible reminder that the Portuguese protect themselves ably.

And visitors will want to scale the Valença Fortress for the best views to Galicia.

While we’re advised that O Faz Figuras is best for traditional Minho dishes like bacalhau cod.

CaminoWays do the heavy lifting

Hat’s the boy: In my billet

We’re staying at the A Torre Do Xudes hotel in Tui.

Our first billet on our CaminoWays odyssey to Santiago de Compostella.

Where the bones of St James the Greater are venerated in the Cathedral.

Which is why pilgrims, or peregrinos, have been walking there for hundreds of years from all over Europe.

To earn grace and penitence and get time off Purgatory, the holding bay for Heaven.

One I took earlier: Eleven years ago

Now back then in the Middle Ages, Michael O’Leary was just a twinkle in a great-great-great-great-great-great grandfather’s eye.

So you would have to leave from your own doorstep and walk across land and sea to get here.

While I saved myself the guts of a few weeks extra walking by taking a two-hour 50 minutes Ryanair flight from Edinburgh to Porto.

And while many peregrinos still carry their full backpacks and stay in hostels, or albergued, along the way.

CaminoWays do the heavy lifting for you, taxiing you to your first stop in TUI from Porto or Santiago.

Putting you up in your hotel and transporting your luggage to your next stay, all in your package.

The Way of James

Two men and a dog: With Dad and Dinky

Now the Way of St James will always mean something unique to everyone who travels it.

And for this James it is following in the footsteps of James the Elder.

James Gerard Murty, who would have been 100 but is gone 18 years now.

And although he will have found his way to Heaven, with only limited time in the Purgatory holding bay.

He continues to guide my path, and no doubt will lead me back on track when I undoubtedly go off course this week.

So come this Way with us and…

MEET YOU ON THE ROAD