America, Asia, Countries, Flying

Avoid air tax hikes and fly through Dublin

It’s music to the ears. Avoid air tax hikes and fly through Dublin.

With British travellers feeling the pinch of Chancellor Rachel Reeves’ money grab for their air pounds many are looking to their neighbours.

Just like they did when there was a rush on Irish passports after Brexit, Britons are looking to cash in on Ireland’s easier relationship with the world.

It’s all talk: Rachel Reeves

Particularly when they are flying transatlantic.

Which we’ve been advising here for all Bandanini and Bandanistas to do since we moved back from Ireland.

Because, of course, as well as being exempt from the tax, unique to the UK, Ireland boasts pre-clearance for visitors going to North America.

Dublin for the night

Catching up with friends: With Teresa, Eoghan Corry and Sharon Jordan in Dublin

It’s a route I know well and confession time here there is a right way and a stressful way of doing things here.

And you won’t be surprised to hear that your Accidental Tourist has more often than not chosen the stressful option.

Through on the day connections from Edinburgh to Dublin and then the States.

Only however many hours you think you have on your side ‘domestic’ flights will usually let you down.

And you may well find yourself rushing through customs and finding yourself still catching your breath on board for your connecting flight to Chicago.

Even if your lemon suitcase takes another four days to join you.

So you might consider a stop-off in the Irish capital the night before and what’s not to like about that option.

Particularly as you’ll still be in pocket through the money you would have spent on those extra Rachel Reeves surcharges.

Turk an overnighter in Istanbul

With Onur: In Istanbul

So you’re going long-haul the other way to Asia or Australia and New Zealand.

Travel expert Simon Calder of the Independent, advises, as we do, Istanbul as your stop-off point.

Where again you can take advantage of the rules by taking a 24-hour plus break in your journey to avoid those extra costs.

Which you won’t regret as you cross continents on a boat trip on the Bosphorus, count your blessings in the Blue Mosque.

Hamam bam: Lie back and think of Turkey

And detox from your kofti and Antalya wine in the Cagaloglu Hamam, just like Florence Nightingale, John Travolta, Oprah Winfrey et al have done.

So while all these Rachel Rates have been taxing Britons this week and for years to come, stick with us.

To avoid air tax hikes and fly through Dublin and the jewel of Turkey.

And we’ll keep you straight and with more cash in your pocket through our Holidos and Holidon’ts tips.

 

Countries, Deals, Europe, Ireland

Easter Reprising in Dublin

And because of the weekend that’s in it we pause for an Easter Reprising in Dublin.

Dubliners will walk like they do daily today by the Daniel O’Connell statue.

On the city’s most famous street, named for the Liberator and still with the bullets embedded from 1916.

And pass with a nod of the head or polite meaningless words.

Many, like the Irish-born picture editor I worked with who didn’t know the names of the Easter 1916 rebels.

But who could rattle off the Manchester United team.

The ideal guides

On shoulders of giants: Jim Larkin in O’Connell Streer

Like many of our cities around the world.

The knowledge and enthusiasm for those who did great deeds on our streets is kept alive by tour guides.

As ever we rely on ourselves and the recommendations of Visit Dublin for the best Easter 1916 tour to take.

And that would be The 1916 Rebellion Walking Tour.

Led since 1996, on the 80th anniversary by Lorcan Collins, author of The Easter Rising and of James Connolly.

Of course no historical event is ever in a vacuum and Lorcan and his colleagues will walk you through the years from 1798.

Dwelling on the Dublin of 1916 and right up to today.

You’ll meet at the International Bar on Wicklow Street, off Grafton Street, 11.30am Mondays to Saturdays and 1pm on Sundays.

The tour costs €23pp and €14 for children 8-16 and free for under-8s and is a gentle two hours.

Stamp of approval

History makers: Of 1916

You’ll visit arguably the most significant working post office in the world.

The GPO (General Post Office) in the centre of O’Connell Street where Padraig Pearce made the Proclamation of the Irish Republic.

Dublin Castle, the headquarters of British rule where the first casualty of the rising fell.

Gaolhouse rock

Celling point: Kilmainham Gaol

Kilmainham Gaol where the leaders were executed.

And fellow Scot James Connolly was gunned down strapped to his chair with a gangrenous leg.

Film buffs will recognise the prison too from the opening scene of The Italian Job and In The Name Of The Father.

And the Custom House, central to the Civil War, among other landmarks.

Footsteps of legends

Rising from the ashes: Easter 1916

In truth, evidence of the Easter Rising is all around you on the streets of Dublin.

And in my 13 years an Irishman, living, working and influencing the direction of the country I love.

The nation of my Dear Old Mum and my Dad’s people.

And for my erstwhile colleague who doesn’t appreciate the sacrifices whose deaths allowed him to be a free Irishman.

Words of history

Heroes: Easter 1916 rebels

I write it out in verse.

MacDonagh and MacBride   

And Connolly and Pearse

Now and in time to be,

Wherever green is worn,

Are changed, changed utterly:   

A terrible beauty is born.

And more of this and much besides in your Easter Reprising in Dublin.

 

Countries, Ireland, Sport

Roysh, here’s where ledges toast Irish rugby

And we sent Daddy’s Little Girl and her beau off to Dublin with this local knowledge… roysh, here’s where ledges toast Irish rugby.

Straight from Ross O’Carroll-Kelly’s mouth, the greatest player Ireland never picked (but still has his boots laced).

The cult hero of the Paul Howard books, Ross, of course, takes a passport with him.

When he leaves D4, the home of Leinster and the national team.

It’s Ross, ye Ken

Book in: Ross in print

And he helpfully wrote a manual to help visitors to D4, South Dublin How to get by on, like €10,000 a day.

Which was close to the mark in the Celtic Tiger days at the start of my 13-year stint working in Ballsbridge.

Along the road from the Aviva Stadium, or Lansdowne Road in old money.

Now Ireland’s standing in the game has changed since I were a lad and they were easy-beats.

Now you’d have to go back to 2010 for the Jocks’ last victory in Dublin.

When Ross and his Castlerock alumni started the proceedings early in Kiely’s.

And where a plaque was erected in the loo to Ross.

Which read: ‘This plaque has been erected in honour of Ross O’Carroll Kelly who hit and missed here for many years.’

A Mecca for the Boys in Green, it has alas given way to regress, housing, two years ago.

Ballsbridge bar crawl

Inter the groove: The InterCon

Back when Ross was splashing €10k a day in the Celtic Tiger Days he and his dodgy sheepskin-coated dad would hold fort in the Ice Bar.

In the institution that is the InterCon where all the rock stars (and me) go when they are playing the RDS.

Now Ross drinks his Ken (short for Heineken) in the Bridge (or Bridge 1859), formerly Bellamy’s.

Bridge of ales: Rugby stars’ bar

Down the steps from Embassy House where I worked and the Herbert Park Hotel.

The Bridge is owned by D4 rugby royalty, Jamie Heaslip, Rob and Dave Kearney, Sean O’Brien and businessman Noel Anderson.

And if you’re fortunate you’ll bump into them although hopefully not literally as you’ll bounce right back.

Paddy’s Day: Paddy Cullen’s

Now, if you find yourself forced out onto the street, or you want the crawl then Paddy Cullen’s/Mary Mac’s may be your next stop.

Local artworks, caricatures, sporting memorabilia and hunting pictures line the wood-panelled walls and onto the ceiling.

All of which make you feel like you’re one of those ledges.

Horses of courses

Make it a date: The Horse Show House

The Horse Show House Bar, further along Merrion Road, is the biggest in the area and boasts a beer garden and the best barbies.

With most importantly a killer big screen for the game.

Its name is a nod to the Royal Dublin Showground, the RDS, where Leinster play their home games.

Searsons, on Upper Baggot Street is reputed to pour the best Guinness in Dublin (whisper that around Ross).

And this being Dublin, Roaring Bay Mussels, alive, alive-o.

In white wine cream with toasted sourdough.

Plain and simple

D4 default: My old workplace

Of course, it would be remiss not to mention my cousins’ bar.

Workshop Bistro (formerly Kennedy’s Bar) on the Liffey, next to Tara Street Station.

Which though not South Dublin does sell the best Guinness, or plain, in Dublin.

So roysh, here’s where ledges toast Irish rugby.

 

Countries, Culture, Europe, Food & Wine, Ireland

Joyce lived la vita bella in Trieste

James Joyce lived la vita bella in Trieste and began charting Leopold Bloom’s course there.

Probably eating crispy frico lollipops, Toc’ in braid, Spring asparagus orzotto and soft frico bites on a roasted polenta tartlet.

While he put Dublin fare and choice words in the mouth of Leopold.

Upper crust: Pinocchio’s

The inner organs of beasts and fowls, thick giblet soup, nutty gizzards, a stuffed roast heart, liverslices fried with crustcrumbs and fried hencods’ roes.

While most of all Joyce tells us ‘he liked grilled mutton kidneys.’

Pinocchio’s by a nose

Odyssey: At Pinocchio’s

Thankfully the good folk of Trieste had the senza to showcase their city in an Italian setting at Pinocchio’s in Temple Bar with best Italian fare.

With Friuli Venezia Giulia chef Manuel Marchetti creating pizzas especially for the occasion.

With toppings consisting of San Daniele Prosciutto and alpine smoked ricotta.

And for dessert, creamy tiramisù, a dessert born in Friuli Venezia Giulia, and Strucchi (no us neither but was gorgeous).

Grazie Ryanair

You dancer: Ryanair

Using Joyce as an entry point Trieste presented the new Ryanair seasonal route.

Available twice weekly until 28 October, with one-way fares start from €19.99pp.

And how Giacomo Joyce as he styled himself in Trieste could have done with a low-fare airlines then.

Portrait of Trieste

Io sono Italiano: Joyce

Joyce had taken a circuitous route to Trieste where he penned A Portrait Of An Artist As A Young Man.

To take up a job as a tutor to a young girl Letitza, daughter of Jewish writer Ettore Schmitz.

Whom it is said he based Leopold Bloom around.

With Joyce also so smitten with Ettore’s wife Livia that he remodelled her as Anna Livia a representation of the River Liffey.

Alongside which today’s tourist hub and stag and hen central Temple Bar flows.

Vino de vici

Chin chin: Il vino

As indeed did the Italian wine. No Leopold Bloom glass of Burgundy ecco grazie on Pudding Row.

No, Ireland’s greatest author. Si, si… it was how Joyce lived la bella vita in Italy.

 

 

Countries, Deals, Europe

Athens an epic city break

Any city where the cabbie asks you how much you want to pay has a jump start on others… yes, it’s Athens an epic city break.

But don’t just take my word for it (well do) but the Post Office’s annual City Costs Barometer makes Athens your alpha city.

The beta, gamma, delta and epsilon (I knew Greek would serve me well one day) are outliers Lisbon, Krakow, Riga and Budapest.

The Post Office took a dozen common holiday purchases.

From a travel card and entrance to a museum to a cup of coffee and two nights in a three-star hotel.

And Athens came out on top at £207.18.

Metaxi

Spoiled and ruined at the Acropolis in Athens

Now famously the Greeks bankrupt themselves partly because they supposedly saw underground fares as optional.

I don’t know about the veracity of that having enjoyed the services of my old Athenian pal George’s driving.

And Athens’ peculiar taxi service.

Where they’ll quote a fare of €15 or €10 or whatever you’ve got to get up from your downtown hotel to the Acropolis.

And then if you get the right return driver it could be €10 to get back to your hotel.

Or as my own chilled cabbie put it pay if you can.

Dublin’s fare city

The Travel pack in Dublin

T’wouldn’t catch on in Dublin though where the latest incomers bag a licence.

And then take you halfway around the city just to ramp up the fare.

That and the think of a number drink fares around Temple Bar put Dublin down at 17 on the list at £436.12.

Just behind Pricey Paris at £423.42.

And only ahead of Copenhagen (£455.75), Venice (£456.92) and Amsterdam (£592.79).

Some local knowledge is, of course, helpful which is what you get over 13 years living and working in the Irish capital.

Some personal favourites

On the King Charles Bridge in Prague

We’re pleased to see, of course, that some personal favourites make the top ten.

With Prague at £248.50 which leaves plenty in your pocket for Pilsner.

And Rome at £347.17, although we can show you some short cuts around La Citta Eterna.

The top 20

I’ll be back: The Trevi Fountain in Rome
  1. Athens – £207.18
  2. Lisbon – £218.03
  3. Krakow – £218.55
  4. Riga – £220.32
  5. Budapest – £220.95
  6. Prague – £248.50
  7. Madrid – £298.81
  8. Berlin – £316.97
  9. Dubrovnik – £318.30
  10. Rome – £347.17
  11. Barcelona – £384.80
  12. Bruges – £389.05
  13. Florence – £397.87
  14. Vienna – £401.64
  15. Stockholm – £421.16
  16. Paris – £423.42
  17. Dublin – £436.12
  18. Copenhagen – £455.75
  19. Venice – £456.92
  20. Amsterdam – £592.79

So that’s the alpha to the omega from your local post office.

And if you didn’t know it before then here’s confirmation what we already know about Athens an epic city break.

 

Countries, Culture, Food & Wine, Ireland, Music

The world is open again

And, yes, we know that England has a habit of pronouncing that the world means them.

But on the day when England begins to emerge from lockdown our friends at Meet The Media over in Ireland brought the world of Travel together again.

Highlight of the year

The annual meet is a highlight of every Travel professional’s year.

Go Westbury

And this year, while different being run remotely, was even more important in championing our industry.

In praise of Dublin

I’ll keep you going with all the latest as the day evolves but to kick off as the world can’t come to Dublin yet let’s bring Dublin to the world.

The Westbury Hotel, off Grafton Street, is where old friends get together to exchange the past year’s tales and experiences and look forward to the coming year.

We’ll have that filled soon

And good wine flows before we all retire at the end of the day to the hotel bar Balfe’s.

Grafton Street, between Merrion Square and St Stephen’s Green, is where Dubliners mill (and milliner with Brown Thomas boutique where the glam set go to shop).

A slice of life

Between the buskers and mime and statue entertainment.

High tea in the Westbury or people spot from the balcony of Bewley’s Oriental Cafe with your hot chocolate and cinnamon swirl (guilty!).

They’ve been coming ti Bewley’s for years

The spirit of rock guitar great Phil Lynott still hovers above the eponymous statue outside Bruxelles, a favourite meeting place.

And a must-do selfie. And if you have a plectrum leave it there in tribute to the Great Man and Proud Dubliner.

Our Meet the Media would traditionally end in one of my favourite Dublin bars, Mary’s on Wicklow Street.

Where surrounded by good Guinness and great craic and a reconstructed traditional Irish bar and hardware store we’d listen to great music.

And plan with our international friends where we’d go next.

Both that night and the rest of the year.

MEET YOU ON THE ROAD