Countries, Europe

Venice L’elisir d’amore

And because it’s a natural stage. for romance then sing your love from the rooftops in the Floating City… Venice L’elisir d’amore.

Like the random bella figura Italian who broke out in opera in front of us near the Grand Canal.

Because opera belongs to everyone in Italy, in a way that it doesn’t in our buttoned-up bit of an island in the north-west of Europe.

And, of course, our friends at Institute for Culture Travel know what we want.

Which is a Donazetti melodrama which you and I know as being Bergamo’s favourite son and songsmith.

The Phew Lagoon

Venice: And let’s catch a gondola back to Padova

Every culture vulture loves to take in their surrounds and all the better when you have someone to guide you.

Which ICT will do on your first full day in La Serenissima, taking in Doge’s Palace, Rialto Bridge and a swathe of churches.

Your five-day tour will take in the picturesque island of Burano and the glass-blowing hub that is Murano.

While, of course, you’ll be wined and dined with the best seafood in the Adriatic and reclined in the charming Hotel Santa Chiara.

Now you always learn something new every time you visit Venice.

And ICT will give you a half-day Bacaro tour you’ll never forget.

Through its most historic wine-bar district where your guide will take you into authentic bacari.

Talk like a Venetian

Go with the flow: The Grand Canal

The beloved gathering places where real Venetians go to chill and chat.

And savour a delectable cichetto—a classic Venetian bite—perfectly paired with a regional wine or refreshing spritz as you immerse yourself.

The highlight of your Venetian venture is that evening of opera at the Teatro Malibran and pre-opera fare.

The Malibran, inaugurated in 1678 on the site of Marco Polo’s former residence, played a central role in the development of Italian opera throughout the 17th and 18th centuries.

It ain’t over: Until she sings

In 1835 the theatre was renamed in honour of the legendary Spanish mezzo-soprano Maria Malibran, who refused her fee to help improve the venue’s condition.

Carefully restored over the centuries it now seats around 900, including you.

You will fly out on August 23 with Aer Lingus and return on August 27. From €2,109pps.

 

 

 

Countries, Deals, Europe

Still going Solos in Padua and Venice

I get shivers at our guide’s reaction but years on we’re still going Solos in Padua and Venice.

Mariaclaudia had, of course, not signed up for the prima donna leading her group astray.

When we were given an afternoon off in hidden gem Padua.

But with the understanding that we would be sampling the charms of the medieval city. 

A day out in Venezia

All at sea: In Venice

And not ask to be dropped off at the train station.

Where we hotfooted it for Venezia and our train was late back.

For the black tie musical set-piece dinner at the historical Botanic Gardens.

Blue for you: Padua’s frescoes

And someone who will remain nameless, OK it was you Dragon, hadn’t taken a change of clothes.

And had to stay seated at the table so as not to reveal that he was in boardies.

Tour de force

Go with the flow: With a gondolier

You’ll not require any such subterfuge, of course, with Solos Holidays who offer you a twin Venice and Padua break this Christmas.

You’ll stay right in the heart of Venice fir easy access to the Rialto Bridge, the Doge’s Palace, the Ghetto and trips to the islands.

Highlights include a half-day guided tour of Venice, including entrance to the Palace.

And another a half-day guided tour of Padua with train transfers and access to the Baptistry, Cathedral, and Cathedral Museum.

Buon Natale

Green for go: At the Padua Botanical Gardens

A four-night  Christmas in Venice holiday leaving on 22 December 2024, costs from £1,419pp.

All including return flights and water-taxi transfers, airport taxes.

Twin room for solo use, welcome drink and information meeting, breakfast daily.

Plus, and here’s the Christmas bit (lunch and three evening meals.

Half-day guided tour of Venice, Dulal Palace entrance.

Half-day guided tour of Padua including train transfers, entrance to Baptistry, Cathedral and Cathedral Museum in Padua.

And an accompanying Solos Tour Leader… just don’t tell Mariaclaudia.

That we’re still going Solos in Padua and Venice.

 

Countries, Europe

The €5 merchants of Venice and the Ghetto

If had a fiver for every time I’ve been asked since yesterday about the new charge… well anyway here are my thoughts about the €5 merchants of Venice and the Ghetto.

Venice, as everyone knows, faces an ever-growing battle to survive climate change.

And has now taken the dramatic move to charge day tourists €5 for entering the inner city on its busiest days this summer.

Opinions differ about the wisdom and the possibilities for the initiative.

Masked zinger: Venice style

With today’s doges, or councillors, arguing that it will reduce congestion and the money can be put into conservation.

While opponents say the small fee will not deter overtourism and that the problem lies elsewhere in housing.

With the explosion in AirBnBs deterring locals from getting on the housing ladder.

And the City on the Lagoon uniquely is where you need a ladder more than most.

In the Ghetto

Ghetto blaster: The Ghetto in Venice

Now as backers and sackers bicker it is instructive to reflect that exclusion zones are nothing new in Venice.

For entirely different reasons the Venetians operated the world’s first Ghetto, from the word ‘foundry’ from 1516 to 1797.

To keep the Jews out of the city at night-time gates were built with fines imposed.

Today’s Ghetto is still the hub of Jewish life with shops, restaurants, a synagogue and events and a Holocaust memorial.

All of which I would have enjoyed witnessing first hand had we not arrived there in our first visit there, on the Sabbath!

And yes despite Herself’s famous organisational skills, we have form for this.

Having cycled to cheesetown Edam from Amsterdam on the town’s half day.

The Venice waterland

Colour me good: Murano

Back to Venice and for all the charms of inner Venice, the Rialto, Bridge of Sighs, the Campanile and St Mark’s Square.

There is much to enjoy in the hinterland, or hinterwater as it should probably be called.

The Arsenale, the ancient gunnery area of Venice and the aforementioned Ghetto.

While there are 118 islands in the archipelago although most of us only visit two from Rialto… Murano and Burano.

Murano being where the artisan glassmakers will blow out a bespoke vase for you.

While if its lace you’re looking for and colourful fishermen canal houses then Burano is your stop-off.

Now it’s worth remembering that the charge is factored in for your sleepovers in Venice so you’ll see all the faves without the surplus.

However you do it we would always say do it.

And while you we trust you will give some thought to the €5 merchants of Venice and the Ghetto.

 

Caribbean, Countries, Europe, UK

400 years of Will’s World

And as if we need an excuse it’s 400 years of Will’s World… excellent, party on, as we mark four centuries since his folios were first published.

And as the companion the BBC will no doubt ask me for, to support the fine Shakespeare: Rise of a Genius series, here’s his go-to sets.

Anyone for Venice

Waking on water: In Venice

Venice: The republic of Venice with its rich maritime empire and narrow, sinister alleyways was fertile ground for Will.

And where he set The Merchant of Venice (the clue is in the title) and Othello, studies in anti-semitism and racism.

The lagoon city’s labyrinthine closes remain relatively unchanged since Will’s day.

So visitors with any literary knowledge can conjure up Iago and Cassio, and in the Ghetto the money-lender Shylock.

The prints of Denmark

You got skulls: And alas poor Yoric

Kronborg Castle, Denmark: And the inspiration for Will’s most celebrated creation and play Hamlet.

A lookout post at the Royal Danish Castle of Elsinore… between northern Jutland and modern-day Sweden.

Where every summer the Danes put on the play… wherein we’ll catch the conscience of the king of theatre.

Where it be done

Any witch way: Macbeth

Scotland: Where it be done it be done quickly, to misquote Will and Lady Macbeth.

The newly amalgamated Scotland is naturally the setting for Will’s new project, the glorification of King James I of Great Britain.

And helpfully for us he namechecks those dramatic places in the north… Inverness, Dunsinane, Cawdor and Glamis Castle.

Athens is a classic

Spoiled and ruined: At the Acropolis in Athens

Athens: And you’d think that any focus would be on the play which references the classical Greek city, Timon of Athens.

But that tale of the Athenian who squanders his riches on parasitic companions until he is poor and they reject him.

But for real Atheniana we turn to Midsummer’s Night Dream where four Athenian lovers are manipulated by fairies.

Shakespearabbean

Shakespeare not stirred: Tenerife

Bermuda: And to show that Will’s World, like his imagination, stretched far and wide we’ll take you to an exotic island.

Of course we know Will liked a foreign isle for his characters’ adventures.

From Othello’s travels in Cyprus among others.

While we know too from our own peregrinations in Tenerife that Shakespeare was fond of Canarian wine.

But it was Bermuda where Will sent Prospero.

Inspired by William Strachey’s letter on the shipwreck of the Sea Venture off Bermuda in 1609.

 

Asia, Countries, Europe

Tom Cruise’s Fiat de Resistance

Have you watched the latest Mission Impossible and Tom Cruise’s Fiat de Resistance… well, I’ve been there.

Trying to kick a Fiat Cinquecento into life.

Does my car look big in this? A Fiat 500 in Cannes

In my case it was Cannes, in Tom’s and alter ego Ethan Hunt’s, the Spanish Steps in Rome.

Copwatch: On the Spanish Steps

Where an albeit handcuffed Ethan and Grace faffed with the dashboard.

Before they got the hang of the classic car to clatter down the steps and through the streets of Rome.

Italian batallion

Anyone for Venice: The adventure begins

And, obviously, for our delectation past the Colosseum time and time and time again.

Of course, we have to remind ourselves for all Tom’s stunt boastery, this is all just great CGI.

I mean, whoever got through Roman traffic unless on a Vespa or Lambretta.

Or down the Venetian alleyways which for the first time in history were empty!

All revved up: Ethan Hunt

And all without a guide book compass, and yes you can thank me later.

Which makes you wonder how Ethan and Grace found the Ponte Minich, or Minich Bridge, so easily.

As they both admit in a cheesy moment that it was their first time in the water city.

Surely an omission for any international man of mystery.

An Alpine hand

White delight: In Soll in tbe Alps

It would, in truth, be mission impossible for Ethan to have to find the golden key anywhere as random down the back of the couch.

Because that wouldn’t showcase the favourite familiar scenes we know from MI and Bond and others.

With (spoiler alert, though really) the climax plays out in the Austrian Alps.

With Innsbruck as a backdrop for the Melodrama on the Orient Express (naturally).

Although truth be told it’s actually the Kylling Bridge in Norway.

And other pit stops

Dam good: Amsterdam

Amsterdam too is featured, and again it’s popular for movie chases.

Despite busy canals and pathways and despite his derring-do I wouldn’t advise even Ethan to take on the angry Amsterdammer cyclists.

He’s on safer ground, or sand in the deserts of Abu Dhabi.

For the rest of us we can only aspire to Ethan’s feats of incredulity.

Floating: On air

But it’s reassuring to know that he too struggles with classic Italian cars.

Of course, he comes through to make it Tom Cruise’s Fiat de Resistance.

While for other international men of mystery it’s a Fiat de Persistence.

 

Countries, Deals, Europe

Athens an epic city break

Any city where the cabbie asks you how much you want to pay has a jump start on others… yes, it’s Athens an epic city break.

But don’t just take my word for it (well do) but the Post Office’s annual City Costs Barometer makes Athens your alpha city.

The beta, gamma, delta and epsilon (I knew Greek would serve me well one day) are outliers Lisbon, Krakow, Riga and Budapest.

The Post Office took a dozen common holiday purchases.

From a travel card and entrance to a museum to a cup of coffee and two nights in a three-star hotel.

And Athens came out on top at £207.18.

Metaxi

Spoiled and ruined at the Acropolis in Athens

Now famously the Greeks bankrupt themselves partly because they supposedly saw underground fares as optional.

I don’t know about the veracity of that having enjoyed the services of my old Athenian pal George’s driving.

And Athens’ peculiar taxi service.

Where they’ll quote a fare of €15 or €10 or whatever you’ve got to get up from your downtown hotel to the Acropolis.

And then if you get the right return driver it could be €10 to get back to your hotel.

Or as my own chilled cabbie put it pay if you can.

Dublin’s fare city

The Travel pack in Dublin

T’wouldn’t catch on in Dublin though where the latest incomers bag a licence.

And then take you halfway around the city just to ramp up the fare.

That and the think of a number drink fares around Temple Bar put Dublin down at 17 on the list at £436.12.

Just behind Pricey Paris at £423.42.

And only ahead of Copenhagen (£455.75), Venice (£456.92) and Amsterdam (£592.79).

Some local knowledge is, of course, helpful which is what you get over 13 years living and working in the Irish capital.

Some personal favourites

On the King Charles Bridge in Prague

We’re pleased to see, of course, that some personal favourites make the top ten.

With Prague at £248.50 which leaves plenty in your pocket for Pilsner.

And Rome at £347.17, although we can show you some short cuts around La Citta Eterna.

The top 20

I’ll be back: The Trevi Fountain in Rome
  1. Athens – £207.18
  2. Lisbon – £218.03
  3. Krakow – £218.55
  4. Riga – £220.32
  5. Budapest – £220.95
  6. Prague – £248.50
  7. Madrid – £298.81
  8. Berlin – £316.97
  9. Dubrovnik – £318.30
  10. Rome – £347.17
  11. Barcelona – £384.80
  12. Bruges – £389.05
  13. Florence – £397.87
  14. Vienna – £401.64
  15. Stockholm – £421.16
  16. Paris – £423.42
  17. Dublin – £436.12
  18. Copenhagen – £455.75
  19. Venice – £456.92
  20. Amsterdam – £592.79

So that’s the alpha to the omega from your local post office.

And if you didn’t know it before then here’s confirmation what we already know about Athens an epic city break.

 

Countries, Deals, Europe

Venice to yourself

You jostling to get through the alleyways to the Rialto Bridge… you know you can get Venice to yourself.

Yes, by getting away from the crowds and heading for the Arsenale or the Ghetto.

While the one thing you can always depend on in Venice is water.

And the expanse of the Grand Canal and a water taxi.

Our private island

Just draw a beardie on: The ageless Jimmy

Better still get yourself your own private island… no, seriously, do.

Just a 10-minute boat ride from Piazza San Marco is the 5 * San Clemente Palace Kempinski.

The San Clemente Palace features three bars, three gourmet restaurants, a spa, pool and a terrace overlooking the lagoon.

Just what The Scary One needs then to keep her out of trouble.

Now you never need an excuse to visit the city on the lagoon.

But Venice, and especially the San Clemente, is the ideal destination for anniversaries… ours was our tenth anniversary.

And that wasn’t yesterday despite what the pictures might show.

Anniversary deal

Squid’s in: Try the Venetian black squid

The San Clemente is offering a 125th anniversary special.

And they’ll throw in

A specially crafted anniversary drink, ‘The Everlast’ served at iconic Buddha-Bar Beach Restaurant.

A complimentary sweet treat served at Acquerello Restaurant

Daily buffet breakfast at Insieme– in a private courtyard.

15% off on room bookings with flexible rates

20% off on suite bookings with flexible rate and delightfully crafted suite amenities and late check-out*

And a comp boat service from/to San Marco Square.

The deal

Beat the crowds: On a water taxi

And all you have to do is:

Guarantee for a two-night stay.

The offer is open until 30 September, and yes, I know September is our anniversary month.

Two nights in a superior room for two is €1,341.99.

And yes, you’ll feel like you have Venice to yourself.

 

Countries, Europe

Venice unmasked

Now we’re coming out from behind our cloths it’s poignant that the City of Masks, Venice is unmasked.

The time was when we’d only come across masks in the shops in the City on the Lagoon.

Those ornate, beaked souvenirs you bring back with you from Italy.

But since Covid broke out two years ago we’ve all taken on the appearances of theatre nurses.

Read our lips

Water, water everywhere: The grand hotel

There will, of course, be a period of adjustment as we become comfortable again showing off our pearly whites in public.

And not feel self-conscious or socially irresponsible when we forget our masks for Sunday Mass.

The test, of course, is when we’re jostled together in tight alleyways on holiday.

Now there are few places as huddled as Venice’s alleyways, unless you’ve been in a Marrakech soukh.

And it was that which spread the disease during the Black Death and saw the rise in masks.

And dandies turning adversity into masked balls.

Isles with style

Anyone for pool: So dip your toe in

You can, of course, escape the hustle and bustle by getting on a boat out to Murano and Burano.

And if you do need the sand between your toes then the Lido is also on your doorstep.

A beach bar you say, but away from the crowds… well, you’ll want to try the Buddha Beach Bar at the San Clemente Palace Kempinski.

Venice: Let;s catch a gondola back to Padova

You’ve probably stared longingly towards the isola from Rialto.

Once a place of isolation for monks and an asylum for those Venetians to hide away those they wanted to keep out of view.

Buddha Beach Bar

Love is in the air: in San Clemente

It is now a private island boasting the 5* San Clemente Palace Kempinski.

And now the gastronomic destination with three gourmet restaurants and bars, this season, the San Clemente Palace Kempinski is adding an exciting new dining concept.

San Clemente is opening a new Buddha Beach Bar, of all things.

You’ll be surrounded by palm trees (yes, really).

And the poolside Buddha Beach Bar offers an enticing blend of neo-Asian and Italian cuisine accompanied by music and cocktails.

Just a ten-minute boat ride from Piazza San Marco, San Clemente Palace Kempinski and its Buddha Beach Bar is Venice Unmasked.

And the good news is that it’s reopening this Spring.

So check out their offers.

Romantic Escape in the Special Suites of San Clemente

What about a romantic stay in suites with private transfers by water taxi from Venice Airport?

And a dinner for two at Acquerello Restaurant, inclusive of three-course menu.

And among the extras are a Kempinski Lady in Red Service and a €50 Spa treatment voucher, per room, per stay.

 

 

Countries, Europe, Sustainable Tourism

Venice’s €5 entry fee is a bridge too far

Is it just me or do you think Venice’s €5 entry fee is a bridge too far?

Because the very idea of charging to be allowed into any city feels anti-libertarian.

Yes, we all know the arguments… over-tourism, the city sinking, but is economic selectionism really the answer?

Make no mistake here, Venice truly is one of the world’s great cities.

And I was entranced from the moment I emerged from the throng off the train into its alleyways in the early Noughties.

City’s hidden delights

Fast city: Venice

Now to put this into context… I’m just a city boy, born and raised in Jordanhill (apols to Journey).

And I love the energy and life Venice brings.

Like everyone else I have taken in the must-sees St Mark’s Square, the Bridge of Sighs, the Rialto Bridge and the Campanile.

And why wouldn’t you?

But I also spent our first evening exploring the Arsenale and went onto branching out from the packed centre.

While I also sailed out to the island of Murano, where glass-makers ply their trade just like their forebears did centuries ago.

Neighbouring Burano  is known for its brightly coloured fishermen houses which acted as a beacon, and its lace traders.

And I also took in the Isola di San Michele where Venezians buried their dead.

In The Ghetto

Hidden away: The Ghetto

But it is the Ghetto in Cannaregio which really captured my attention.

The Ghetto is where the city’s Jews were kept out of the city

And it was here (the foundry area) where the Doge Leonardo Loredan and the Venetian Senate sentenced the Jews to live.

They were only allowed to enter the city at certain hours.

Rules, rules, rules

Watch for the traffic: On the gondolas

Now there is no suggestion Deputy Mayor for Tourism Simone Venturini is motivated to exclude any of us for anything other than over-tourism reasons.

‘The aim is to discourage one-day tourism, hit-and-run tourism,’ he explained.

‘Arriving in one day and leaving in the same day, tiring and stressing the city, and encouraging slower tourism instead.’

And to debunk a myth there won’t be turnstiles, you’ll book ahead online.

Watch your back

Venice fans: With the gang from Padova trip

But still how will entry to the city be manned and how do they plan to control congestion at the entry point?

I’m worried here, and have been for some time, that the ’emergency’ restrictions foisted on us all over Covid will persist as we emerge out of the pandemic.

Because isn’t that just the way of our leaders. 

And as I often try to remind people wasn’t Income Tax brought in as a temporary charge to cope with the Napoleonic Wars.

Who is that masked man (and woman)? The Biennale

All of which neatly brings us around to the man who ended the restrictions for the inhabitants of the world’s first ghetto, Napoleon Bonaparte.

Now we know that the City on the Canal has its own unique challenges and that during the Black Death they pioneered masks.

You know the bespoke ones they sell throughout the city’s alleyway souvenir shops.

 But Venice’s €5 entry fee is a bridge too far.

So what do you think? Let us know and we’ll share.

 

 

America, Asia, Caribbean, Countries, Culture, Europe, UK

Sir Sean’s iconic sets (or should that be shets?)

Resht in peash, Shir Sean. And I hope Shaint Peter understandsh your acshent.

Living in Portobello, Edinburgh’s beach suburb for ten years I never heard anybody spik like Sir Sean.

But maybe thatsh moviesh!

Preparing for the role: In Portobello. www.twitter.com

First Porty of call

Portobello: And Porty is as good a place as any to talk about Sir Sean’s sets.

Because it was here in his hometown, and as a lifeguard at Porty’s outdoor swimming pool that he had his first stage.

The pool is now a five-a-side football complex, and we have both moved on.

Visitors to Edinburgh rarely go any further out of the city than Leith where the Royal Yacht Britannia is kept.

But they should. Porty is bohemian while still being grounded “, and if you can’t get to those beaches Bond did you can walk in Sean’s sandsteps here.

Bahama Mamma

Bahamas: And it’s fitting that Sir Sean saw out his days in the Bahamas.

He clearly enjoyed the island lifestyle as much as Ian Fleming who penned the spy which would propel Connery to fame just down the road in Jamaica.

We’ve all, of course, been reminiscing about who until today was the second Greatest Living Scot (it’s Billy Connolly now).

And my old pal, Rebecca Lee, who I sent out to the Bahamas reminds me of how she stayed at the hotel where he still played the tables.

And was beloved by the locals which is as it should be.

The daddy of them all: Indy’s Dad in Jordan. www.pinterest.com

Jordan and crusaders

Jordan: Sir Sean was always unmistakably Scottish… all Jocks look like movie stars after all.

And share his dry wit.

Sir Sean upstaged Harrison Ford in the Last Crusade, the climax of which is staged at The Treasury in Jordan.

Hardly surprising that proud nationalist Sir Sean should star in an Indy film!

For hire: With Kevin Costner

Untouchable in Chicago

Chicago: And the film for which he won his Oscar as Best Supporting Actor above the wooden acting of Kevin Costner.

You can truly believe Sir Sean as a gritty Chicago cop.

So we’ll pass over that he’s meant to be Irish.

Whodunit: In Orient Express. www.imdb.com

Murder on the Orient Express

Istanbul: The Albert Finney version of course where Sir Sean plays Colonel Arbuthnot.

And Istanbul is the terminus for the Orient-Express, although we all know that Poirot and his fellow passengers were on their way back to London.

And an example of how less is more… with Sir Sean, the upstanding stiff military man rather than than the dashing, reckless Bond.

Anyone for Venice? James and Tatiana. www.pinterest.com

From Russia (really Istanbul and Venice) With Love

Istanbul and Venice: And this being released in the mid-60s and in the middle of a real Cold War the filming was done in the West.

There are some iconic scene in this my favourite Bond.

I love Commie kicker Hleb’s kickathon with Bond and who can forget Bond and Tatiana sailing under the Bridge of Sighs in Venice.

There’s definitely something about James… or should that be something about Murty!