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Countries, Deals, Europe

Dipping your toe in the Adriatic

15th October 202415th October 2024 funtime65

Nico waxes lyrical about growing up as a child in Dubrovnik on the Adriatic, en route to Montenegro.

Where the young are water babes, spending every available minute in the sea.

I am blessed to share my life with a little mermaid myself.

And she has it in her mind to swim out to the boat anchored in the harbour of the Lapad peninsula.

A 20-minute bus ride into the Old Town.

Step on it

We have been up and down the pristine cliffside path from the promenade looking for the ideal alcove for our swim.

We are spoiled for choice and eventually settle on what we’ve decided will be ours for our seven-day duration.

On our loveholidays and EasyJet holiday, staying at the Grand Park Hotel.

Just below the Restaurant More with its tables set for breakfast and morning espressos.

A couple of likely lads jump in ahead of us and snorkel away as we brace ourselves for the cooling waters.

Before we take the plunge.

The new wave

And soon we work off the cooked breakfast from the all-you-can eat buffet.

And a special mention on that and the Hotel Park’s funky pancake maker.

Which will put our expert at home out of a job.

All that’s needed is a press of a button and a wave to the elves inside and out pops the globule which forms into your treat.

Refreshed from our morning swim we plan our day.

How to train your Dragon

The Mother of All Dragons has it in her mind to circle the Old Town walls… but on foot.

We have a seven-day Dubrovnik Pass which allows us one-time entry into most of the attractions for £95.

The curative effects of the salty Adriatic have soothed her ardour and the ankles that have become a feeding ground for insects.

That’s the benefits of dipping your toe in the Adriatic.

Countries, Deals, Europe

Welcome to Moggienegro

14th October 202414th October 2024 funtime65

A little mouse told me, well, Rommy our Croatian tour guide, but welcome to Moggienegro anyway.

Rommy was probably stretching it to say the Montenegrins were the first to use cats to fight the Black Death.

But they have certainly made cats their USP.

And you can’t move in Kotor for cats around your feet.

Which is all fine by us.

We have come to Kotor in Montenegro from our loveholidays billet in Dubrovnik, Croatia, for the day (€97 for two/GetYourGuide).

Montenegro’s mini-Dubrovnik

Unbeknownst to us Kotor is a smaller, less busy, cheaper, and equally beguiling walled city to Dubrovnik.

It too has churches, Serbian Orthodox, and reliquaries, and a devotion to the Evangelists.

With its cathedral proudly displaying monster-sized framed pictures of the bibliographers.

But while the Montenegrins are clearly a pious people.

As evidenced by the church island made by fishermen and dedicated to Our Lady at our first stop in Perast.

Their real devotion is to their cats which have the run of their Medieval jewel Kotor.

Kotor’s cat culture

Kotor, in the apron of the black mounts, or Monte Negro, which give this petite country its name, has much to recommend it.

A palm tree-lined promenade, by the lake shore from which our boat comes ashore, leads to a grand arch.

It proudly proclaims its Italian links, Partisans’ victory over the Nazis and Yugoslavian champion Marshall Tito.

All of which you can delve further into at the Maritime Museum which chronicles the two world wars and Balkans conflicts (€6pp).

The Miaowritime Museum

But our ears’ pricked up at the prospect of visiting the Miaowritime Museum, or Cats Museum (€1pp).

Where Lola is there to greet us, splayed over the counter, and generous with her cuddles and purrs.

Laminated sheets give visitors a guide in your own language to the exhibits.

All of which give a fun, feline, look into the world of cats.

How battalions adopted them as mascots, Hollywood stars petted them, children included them in their games and animators infantilised them.

Every shop sells cat-themed merch, from clothes, through tote bags, jewellery and porcelain and more besides.

While the pussies luxuriate on a church door step in the mid-20s mid-afternoon sun.

Lazing on a tabby afternoon

You would be forgiven for thinking they might be sleeping off the titbits from tables of the speciality oysters and muscle local fare.

We are though discouraged from feeding them our dishes.

With the Cats Museum advising that we should donate cat food at any one of a number of stop-offs around town.

The Kotor cats, again if Rommy is to believed and she is mischievous with us, are symptomatic of the Montenegrins.

The laziest of the six countries that made up the old Yugoslavia.

And that’s a bad thing?

Farewell feline friends

I take my cue from my feline friends and have a doze on the coach back to Croatia.

Not even the sight of the cats coming and going freely over the border while we are stuck for an hour at customs can make us take against them.

We eventually get through and as I look back over my shoulder I swear the sign says…

Welcome to Moggienegro.

Countries, Culture, Europe

Back on the road to Dubrovnik

12th October 202412th October 2024 funtime65

I’ve the right passport this time so won’t have to turn around… we’re back on the road to Dubrovnik.

We’ve been over this ground before here and how I took myself off the coach from Medjugorje at the first stop.

Because I had my old passport on me with my American visa stamped on it.

With my current one back in the safe in the hostel.

And going through non-EU Bosnia & Herzegovina into EU Croatia requires a passport.

My Queen of Dragons

All of which comes into sharp focus as I take my Queen of Dragons to Dubrovnik today.

On her 30th anniversary trip courtesy of loveholidays.

The boards at Edinburgh Airport remind us to check our passports.

And make sure that if we have new UK passports that they are signed.

To avoid delays at custom checks on the other side.

Much has changed since I last visited the Balkans.

But thankfully not in that fractious but fabulous strip of south-eastern Europe.

Rather back in Britain where since our own return from 13 years in Ireland Boris got Brexit done.

Boris’s Brexit balls-up

And don’t you know Johnson has a book out, Unleashed, brazenly boasting about that.

It’s on sale at WH Smith’s and The Bookshop at Edinburgh Airport and all good stores at 18.99… he needs the money, of course.

So what of this new UK passport they are harking on about here?

Well, it will ensure you longer waits to get through customs.

As you’re filed into the non-integrationist line of European airports.

Just back from Berlin earlier this year I witnessed signs advising to leave an hour to get through customs.

Of course, for those of us who left the club.

Sure, we’re all Irish

I’m not planning, though, on going through the rigmarole of renewing my British passport in three years’ time.

With an unusual source for pushing me to set in motion something I should have done years ago…

Get an Irish passport.

Because I owe my much-storied neighbour Royalist Roy for giving me the shove.

When trying to get me around to his house to pledge a troth (no, me neither) to the newly-anointed King Charles.

To make his point, he smilingly asked me how I was described on my passport.

World of Game of Thrones

To be fair he is tending to our front lawn while we’re away.

Royalist Roy that is, not his hero.

While I’m back on the road to Dubrovnik with a passport that will get me through customs.

And where we will explore the world of the Game of Thrones.

And put aside the world of the Shame of Thrones for a week until we return.

Jim and Sarah are staying at the 4* Grand Park Hotel, Dubrovnik for seven nights, H/B with balcony view for £1,121.

With return flights from Edinburgh with EasyJet from under three hours.

Countries, Europe, Flying, Skiing

Pour Emily, whenever Megève find her

13th September 202413th September 2024 funtime65

With apologies to Simon & Garfunkel but Pour Emily, whenever Megève find her is our franglais take… on everyone’s favourite Américaine lost in France.

This being winter or l’hiver Emily is decamping to the Alps.

Lil beauty: Lily Collins as Emily. Pic: Stephanie Branchu/Netflix

And being the chic chick that she is that means Megève.

And since we have amis in high altitude places we have the skinny from the Emily in Paris ski set.

L’Art de Vivre

Up, up and away: Camille Razat as Camille. Pic: Stephanie Branchu/Netflix

The much-anticipated final season dropped on Netflix yesterday.

And it sees Emily embracing L’Art de Vivre, or French living.

Around Megève village square and the Mont d’Arbois ski area.

Et the Idéal 1850 restaurant (Edmond de Rothschild Heritage/Four Seasons Megève Collection).

Et the Chalet des Fermes de Marie (.Maisons & Hôtels Sibuet).

Lily in the pink

That’s a wrap: Lily is all about the chic. Pic: Netflix.

And when we say Emily we really mean her doubles.

Because they did all the pipes and slaloms while Lily Collins did all the pre and apres-ski.

But, hey, we all have our crosses to bear.

And there are plenty of them here in this Medieval village with a deeply Catholic heritage.

With its six chapels, around sixty oratories and around twenty crosses.

Megève enjoys God-given beauty, and we’re still talking about Emily here and her beaus.

And it boasts stunning vistas, valleys and vin.

A Massif hit

Ah, L’amour: Lucas Bravo as Gabriel, to Lily Collins’ Emily. Pic: Stephanie Branchu/Netflix

Sat at the foot of the Mont-Blanc massif, it is only one hour from Geneva Airport.

And it is served from everywhere in Britain and Ireland.

Return flights from London Gatwick to Geneva with easyJet are priced from £49pp during the 2024/25 winter season.       

And that’s for me. Pour Emily, whenever Megève find her it will always be in among the high-fliers.

Countries, Ireland

Wild Atlantic is the Way to go in Portnoo who Noo?

8th September 20248th September 2024 funtime65

It was the playground of my youth and now an international walkway. The Wild Atlantic is the Way to go in Portnoo who Noo?

Portnoo in south Donegal in north-west of Ireland is famed for its Blue Flag beach and is stop 10 on your Way.

It was something, of course, we lapped up, city dwellers from a grey post-industrial city in Glasgow.

To have 2km of beach stretched out before us just outside our boarding house.

And with rocky pools to explore for a child with an overactive imagination.

And a new friend, and a girl at that, my parents could relax, knowing I was safe, happy and getting exercise.

While they got some adult time with Helen’s parents, Paddy and Sheila.

Who would come to this bolthole from The Troubles from their home in Belfast.

A Donegal Fáilte

The hills of Donegal: On your Atlantic Way

And so a lifetime friendship was forged for my parents.

Which is often the way that we form those bonds through parents of our children.

We have, of course, been back time and time again.

And when I took the plunge and introduced my English rose of a wife to Ireland it was to Portnoo that we came to stay.

Although alas not Shovlin’s Guest House which had long since passed taking visitors and become a private house.

Kee’s to the door: Kee’s hotel, Stranorlar

Instead we took a cottage which gave me that authentic peat-burning experience.

I remembered from trips to my grandparents in nearby Brockagh, my mum’s homestead.

But alas it is another pleasure denied us now but which we got the most out of in our 13 years in Greystones, Co. Wicklow.

An island of adventures

Atlantic crossing: A smaller island to explore

Today as we return her to the Donegal sod on our final journey together we relive old memories on Portnoo beach.

And look out to Iniskhkeel, an island you can walk out to at low tide.

And which holds monastery ruins, again just what an adventurous kid in the middle of his Enid Blyton Secret Seven phase, can absorb.

Trek the 2km walk along the beach and you will arrive at the charming village of Narin.

And don’t be surprised if you bump into parties of international trekkers.

As the Wild Atlantic is the Way to go in Portnoo… who Noo?

Dip your toe in

By the light of the silvery dune: Portnoo

Local kids and big kids still flock to Narin jetty to jump in the North Atlantic Ocean, though not for this landlubber.

For more grown-up pastimes the Portnoo golf club draws back international visitors.

It is a course I have not played since childhood and never will such is the state of my game.

So I guess I won’t find out if they still have the electrical surround around some greens to put off wandering cows.

The best Mum bar none

We are off on our wanders too and we will take in Mum’s childhood home, McNulty’s Bar in Brockagh, now The Ramblers.

And be welcomed with open arms by today’s hosts, Con, and a tray of teas, bran and sandwiches.

The suitcases are assembled in the foyer of our hotel, another family go-to, Kee’s of Stranorlar.

To be transported to a next stop.

For me, it’s an EasyJet flight back from Belfast to Edinburgh and North Berwick and cold reality.

While walkers continue their trek down from the Inishowen Peninsula to Kinsale in Co.Cork, all 2,600s down the west of Ireland.

For Mum, though, this is where she leaves us.

MEET YOU ON THE ROAD

Countries, Ireland

She ain’t heavy she’s my mother

7th September 20247th September 2024 funtime65

So on we go, her welfare is of my concern.
No burden is she to bear, we’ll get there… but then she ain’t heavy she’s my mother.

Ours is a well-trodden path, Mum and I, and we have been lifelong travelling companions.

But today we set out on our last journey, to Teasy’s homestead of Brockagh, Co. Donegal, in the north-west of Ireland.

Our drive to the airport, this time from North Berwick to Edinburgh, is quieter than usual.

Although I can hear in my mind’s ear her still trying to distract me by pointing out every landmark along the way.

The Adventures of Teasy and her baby

I smile too at the memory of her reaching into the glove compartment on another occasion, for a travel sweet.

And pulling out a joke plastic turd which the kids had left, and almost jumping out of her seat.

We have been travelling this road all my life, either as a family.

Or on those privileged Easter trips, when being the youngest and unencumbered by schoolwork, it was just the two of us.

Sorry for your Troubles

Family time: Ed, Sadie Laurie and dynamic duo

It was always an adventure.

And not without an element of danger.

Such as when we got lost in Belfast in the height of The Troubles.

And Teasy stopped to ask for directions, even inviting the randomer into the car to show us the way.

You can take the girl out of Donegal, and for 70 years my Dear Old Dad did, but you can’t take Donegal out of the girl.

Or when we found ourselves on the Scottish Isle of Arran rather than Ireland because of a communications breakdown at the ferry port.

In the driving seat

Today I am in charge as I was over the 13 years I spent in Greystones, Co. Wicklow, near Dublin.

And I would drive her up to (or down to as she would insist despite it being north) Donegal on her annual pilgrimage.

Although, of course, I never was truly in charge, and it was double trouble when her sister Ronnie came with us.

And Teasy started giving out exhorting Ronnie to get me to stop.

Because she thought I had taken a wrong turn and was ‘now in Bandit Country.’

The parting glass

She is still, of course, causing mischief and it is no surprise to see my backpack siphoned off for checking at Edinburgh Airport.

Or that the security staff highlight that this is no ordinary passenger… ‘she’s very bright’ he opines.

‘That’ll be all the alcohol in her’, I reason.

It could, of course, have been worse, and I half expected to be asked to divide her into 100 little plastic bags and go through again.

The Pearly Gates

But we are on our way, after 70 years Teasy is going home for good.

It’ll be an adventure and already our gate for our EasyJet flight has changed twice in the last ten minutes.

You hope they haven’t got any old airport staff reemployed at the Pearly Gates.

Not my worry yet, I have to get a Daughter of Donegal home, safe and sound.

But be sure that I’ll eek every minute out of our last journey together.

Because the load doesn’t weigh me down at all. She ain’t heavy, she’s my mother.

Countries, Culture, Europe, Food, Sport

An Alpine hand to escape the heat

8th July 20248th July 2024 funtime65

Every summer my own fair maiden will shake her head at Med heatwaves… so happen she needs an Alpine hand to escape the heat.

Summer in the Alps is a very different experience to the winter skiing season.

And can, of course, be confusing when you come to dress for your trek through the valleys.

So if you sleep in, rush your shower and leave it on to seep through the ceiling to the breakfast room then you make the wrong choice.

And find yourself sweating under your ski jacket and become hampered by carrying it.

All of which you learned the hard way huffing and puffing up the hills while yodelling senior citizen Brigitte yodelled and hiked up to the peaks.

Now I tell you this out of love and to prepare you if you head for that summer Alpine trek in, say Morzine and Avoriaz in France this summer.

Take a hike

There all happy hikers can explore more than 200 km of marked trails.

While if you can pull off the lycra (not any more this MAMIL) look get on your bike.

In the expansive Portes du Soleil bike park, which features over 600 km of trails, ranging from beginner to expert levels.

Now those crystal-clear lakes look welcoming enough for a dip…

And in Lake Montriond you can swim, paddleboard, or kayak in the valleys.

While for a more exhilarating experience, thrill-seekers can take on the white-water rafting on the Dranse River.

Being more of a skimmer than a swimmer, although I have traversed rapids in a tub, I’ll let you pick your obsession.

Anyone for tennis… and fondues

Now I do less damage on a golf course or tennis court, although Judy Murray who trained is in the Algarve might say different.

Now you can practise your swing at the 9-hole Avoriaz golf course, one of the highest courses in Europe.

Or engage in a friendly match at the well-maintained tennis courts in Morzine.

All this healthy activity of course is hungry work.

And one of the joys of Alpine living is the refuel.

Our amis in Morzine and Avoriaz recommend this sample, the Savoyard specialists La Chamade, fondue fave La Grange and gourmet L’Atelier.

While the Mil8 restaurant and its terrace on the foot of the slopes offers the lunch of champions.

Sharing platters, street food and mountain dishes and nostalgic desserts served in jars.

Chalet La France

Now as long as you don’t shower the diners then Alpine hoteliers will be only too glad to make you welcome.

The Hotel le Dahu is a rustic family-run mountainside accommodation with spa and indoor and outdoor pools.

If chalets are more your thing (mais oui) then Chalet Eira has spacious rooms, a lively bar, and a sun terrace.

Pierre & Vacances are an old favourite and Résidence Pierre & Vacances Atria-Crozats in Avoriaz are your s/c apartment go-to.

With wellness facilities and close to all major attractions.

A oui flight

Morzine and Avoriaz is only one hour from Geneva Airport with direct, low-cost flight access.

From London, Aberdeen, Belfast, Birmingham, Bristol, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds, Liverpool and Manchester.

Return flights from London Gatwick to Geneva with easyJet are priced from just £49pp during the 2024 summer season.     

Countries, Europe

Corsica it is and no Boneys about it

30th October 202330th October 2023 funtime65

As the hype builds on the release of Ridley Scott’s Napoleon we focus on his birthplace… Corsica it is and no Boneys about it.

Scott’s blockbuster we imagine will dwell on his dizzying ascent, and everything high would have discombobulated Le Petit General.

And how he emerged as a brilliant commander of the French Revolutionary forces.

And Emperor of all France, and its territories, before being exiled to Elba.

Breaking out for the rematch with Britain and her allies.

And meeting his Waterloo at a small village in what is modern-day Belgium.

And ending his days in one of the remotest islands in the world, St Helena, off South Africa.

Throw in a Caribbean-born beauty whose wiles he oddly resisted for the sake of France.

And you’ve got the story of Napoleon and then don’t have to splash the cash on the film.

Napoleon’s island

Only there’s that bit about where Boney was from and don’t our birthplaces always define us?

Which is always the first question we ask of our Corsican amis when we meet up with.

Which we’re doing today in Edinburgh and we’ll fill you in on that, and much more, once our vin-clouded head clears.

But here’s an insight into what gets discussed during these auld alliances and how Boney is celebrated in Corsica.

Because L’Empereur started out, as so many do, as a narrow nationalist, a fan of separatist Pascal Paoli.

Boney’s island

But don’t just take our word for it, well do, but this is what Boney said on the subject.

On Corsica I was given life, and with that life I was also given a fierce love for this my ill-starred homeland and fierce desire for her independance. I too shall one day be a ‘Paoli’.
Napoleon Bonaparte

And helpfully he’ll take you around the island, or at least the company who act in his name, will.

With Karine Huguenaud, of Napoleon.org, helpfully suggesting routes taking in Ajaccio and Corte.

As well as excursions to Bastia, Calvi and Bonifacio.

Now if the question burning in your mind as you watch the Ridley Scott film is why the Bonapartes left Corsica for France.

Then you’re probably watching the wrong movie.

But it would be part of the biography I’d want to see.

The story of Boney’s family

And it’s not as if the story isn’t all there.

At the Maison Bonaparte, on rue Saint-Charles, close to the old Genoese citadel and quayside.

It’s a tale of early Boney of the 1760s over four floors.

When Napoleon’s father, Carlo, switched sides from the Paolist rebels to support the French.

And we guess like good Corsicans of the time Napoleon did what his pere said.

Add into that too that Napoleon was of Tuscan and Genoese stock and you’ll see too that Mama was integral too.

And here at the museum you can see the sofa on which his mother Letizia gave birth to Napoleon.

And Corsica it is and no Boneys about it.

We found flights from London Gatwick to Bastia on Corsica from £104 return with easyJet via Expedia.

Countries, Flying

Coladays and Don’ts on flights

20th September 202320th September 2023 funtime65

We often just skip refreshments on flights because of the prices so it’s good to know when it comes to Coladays and Don’ts TUI puts U and I first.

Now maybe you reckon it’s your holiday so you deserve a ‘proper’ drink.

But what about the juniors… the cost of those sugar fixes soon build up.

Toast of the skies

U in the middle: TUI

Global luggage storage company Radical Storage did the sampling.

And they found the company that puts you in the middle has the cheapest coke in Europe at £1.63 and Pringles snack at £1.74.

Still, you want a beer so here’s our Aledays and Don’ts on flights.

Well, we have to dig deep with TUI the cheapest in Europe at £4.12.

And experience tells us they’re small cans.

Air for the beer

Now why our Asian friends should get better value we don’t learn.

But Air Asia is the cheapest airline in the world with a Coke £1.12, Pringles £1.49, and a beer £2.30.

Now you’ll see your own favourite airlines on the list and inevitably fall on the budget ones.

And while Jet2 wins on the soft drinks and snacks over its rivals Ryanair Michael O’Leary knows his customer.

And Ryanair’s beers are cheaper at £4.62 against Jet2’s £5.10.

While EasyJet weighs in at £5.70.

Food for thought

Now our friends at Radical Storage have done all the heavy lifting here.

And they have a section here for the most nutritious-friendly and vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free and allergy-conscious fleets.

And we’ll leave you to find which box you tick.

But I know you and you want the skinny on Coladays and Don’ts on flights.

And where to get the cheapest beers.

So drink up, we’re saving you money by telling you where the best value is in the skies.

America, Countries, Flying, UK

Fly me, I’m Norse, London to New York

27th May 2022 funtime65

And for those of us of a certain age they’ll remember Fly me, I’m Freddie, and Laker Airways… and fly me, I’m Norse, London to New York is the latest plane on the transatlantic runway.

It is no exaggeration to say that Freddie Laker’s Skytrain revolutionised the skies.

When he burst onto the scene 45 years ago, and brought the world to the common man and woman.

Because we wouldn’t have seen low-budget carriers Ryanair and EasyJet unless Freddie had boldly gone before.

We’ll dip in and out of Freddie’s legacy here but the trigger for revisiting transatlantic travel is the launch of Norse’s £200return fares from London to New York, from August 12.

Bjorn again

Norse Atlantic Airways are going where Norwegian Airlines and others have gone before.

And they are being powered by former Norwegian Airlines boss Bjorn Tore Larsen.

Larsen said: “We are very pleased to now be able to welcome customers looking to book great value flights between London Gatwick and New York JFK.

“Customers now have an affordable option allowing them to book a last-minute trip or a holiday of a lifetime with an airline that offers choice and flexibility.”

Now I didn’t have first-hand experience of flying Norwegian Airlines.

Although I have flown a plane into JFK on Turkish Airlines’ flight simulator and very near landed on the runway?

I did send a colleague over for a Norwegian Airlines flight overnight and a Christmas shopping mall trip.

Overnighter to NY

All of which the bould Eoin did manfully and returned bleary-eyed.

Although not I can recall with anything for the kind editor who had sent him.

That aside, and back to low-budget transatlantic flights.

And Freddie’s story is a familiar one across all businesses.

Where a new competitor brings the prices down and the more established operators follow suit.

And the consumer is a winner but the price war puts a strain on the bottom line and ultimately not everyone can survive.

Amid the fall-out new entrepreneurs come on stream, low-budget airlines return and find their place in the market.

The legacy

And that is why we have Ryanair and EasyJet today.

There are challenges, of course, fuel increasingly burns more and more money.

For those who want to make a living flying us long distances.

So yes, we’d support more choice and competition in the air and say Fly me, I’m Norse, London to New York.

And we are looking forward too to them opening up other transatlantic destinations.