Countries, Culture, Europe, Food, Sport

An Alpine hand to escape the heat

Every summer my own fair maiden will shake her head at Med heatwaves… so happen she needs an Alpine hand to escape the heat.

Summer in the Alps is a very different experience to the winter skiing season.

And can, of course, be confusing when you come to dress for your trek through the valleys.

So if you sleep in, rush your shower and leave it on to seep through the ceiling to the breakfast room then you make the wrong choice.

And find yourself sweating under your ski jacket and become hampered by carrying it.

All of which you learned the hard way huffing and puffing up the hills while yodelling senior citizen Brigitte yodelled and hiked up to the peaks.

Now I tell you this out of love and to prepare you if you head for that summer Alpine trek in, say Morzine and Avoriaz in France this summer. 

Take a hike

Slayed it: On the sleds

There all happy hikers can explore more than 200 km of marked trails.

While if you can pull off the lycra (not any more this MAMIL) look get on your bike.

In the expansive Portes du Soleil bike park, which features over 600 km of trails, ranging from beginner to expert levels.

Now those crystal-clear lakes look welcoming enough for a dip…

Rub a tub dub: Rapids fun

And in Lake Montriond you can swim, paddleboard, or kayak in the valleys.

While for a more exhilarating experience, thrill-seekers can take on the white-water rafting on the Dranse River.

Being more of a skimmer than a swimmer, although I have traversed rapids in a tub, I’ll let you pick your obsession.

Anyone for tennis… and fondues

Drip it all over: Fun fondues

Now I do less damage on a golf course or tennis court, although Judy Murray who trained is in the Algarve might say different.

Now you can practise your swing at the 9-hole Avoriaz golf course, one of the highest courses in Europe.

Or engage in a friendly match at the well-maintained tennis courts in Morzine.

Keeeeep dancin’: With Judy Murray

All this healthy activity of course is hungry work.

And one of the joys of Alpine living is the refuel.

Our amis in Morzine and Avoriaz recommend this sample, the Savoyard specialists La Chamade, fondue fave La Grange and gourmet L’Atelier.

While the Mil8 restaurant and its terrace on the foot of the slopes offers the lunch of champions.

Sharing platters, street food and mountain dishes and nostalgic desserts served in jars.

Chalet La France

House about that: The chalets

Now as long as you don’t shower the diners then Alpine hoteliers will be only too glad to make you welcome.

The Hotel le Dahu is a rustic family-run mountainside accommodation with spa and indoor and outdoor pools.

If chalets are more your thing (mais oui) then Chalet Eira has spacious rooms, a lively bar, and a sun terrace.

Pierre & Vacances are an old favourite and Résidence Pierre & Vacances Atria-Crozats in Avoriaz are your s/c apartment go-to.

With wellness facilities and close to all major attractions.

A oui flight

Easy does it: Your cut-price flight

Morzine and Avoriaz is only one hour from Geneva Airport with direct, low-cost flight access.

From London, Aberdeen, Belfast, Birmingham, Bristol, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds, Liverpool and Manchester.

Return flights from London Gatwick to Geneva with easyJet are priced from just £49pp during the 2024 summer season.      

Countries, Europe, Sport

Le Tour di Firenze Grand Depart

It’s the most poplar (bear with us here) cycling event in the world and this year all eyes are on Le Grand Tour di Firenze Grand Depart.

Firenze is as synonymous for its poplar trees as it is its Duomo and Boy David.

And they are at their full height as the Tour de France cyclists ride through the streets and up the peaks of Tuscany.

Il Bel Paese: Poplar trees

It seems something of an oversight that this Renaissance City, and Il Bel Paese, have been overlooked over the 110 years of Le Tour for Le Depart.

Before squillions of Euro won them the prestigious opening stage of Le Tour.

Gino, Il Giro and Le Tour

Wheels of history: Gino’s bike

Italy, of course, has its own famous Tour, Il Giro, and pedallers too.

It is ten years though since an Italian, Vincenzo Nibali, reached L’Arc de Triomphe in jeune or giallo.

Following in the tread marks of the likes of Ottavio Bottechia, Fausto Coppi, Gino Bartali and Marco Pantani.

Mellow yellow: On my travels in Padova

You can learn for yourself all about these Renaissance riders for yourself at the Gino Bartali Cycling Museum in Firenze.

But as a taster our amici at Britain’s Channel 4, who have been bringing us extensive coverage for 40 years, have filled us in.

War hero

Hometown: Gino’s Firenze

Gino, or ‘Ginetaccio’ as he is known in these parts won three Giri and two Tours in the 30s and 40s.

But as well as his exploits on two wheels he had crossbar crossover too for what he did in the War.

Gino, as most elite cyclists are, was very much his own uomo.

And that meant him taking a brave stance in 1938 when not dedicating his Tour de France victory to Il Duce.

He was to show even greater courage in 1943 when he defied the German occupiers in northern Italy.

Wheelie good fun: Le Tour

Bartali took the Cardinal of Firenze, Archbishop Elia Dalla Costa, up on his invitation to join a secret network offering protection and safe passage to Jews and other vulnerable people.

As a courier with the famous cyclist, carrying photographs and counterfeit identity documents to and from a secret printing press.

Peak condition: In the Pyrenees

All hidden in the frame and handlebars of his bike.

Bartali also hid his Jewish friend Giacomo Goldenberg, and Goldenberg’s family.

On the road again

My kinda two wheels: In Rimini

Like all true heroes, Bartali played down his feats of derring-do and in later life, saying “I’m just a cyclist.”

Thankfully Bartali’s successors on Le Tour di Firenze Grand Depart only have to worry now about getting to Rimini in Emilia-Romagna.

And beyond to Cesenatico, Bologna, Piacenza and Torino en route to Paris in three weeks. 

We will be following them from the safe distance of home… and seeing if an eighth Italian can win Le Tour.

But if you are lucky enough to be in the vicinity of a Tour leg and can get there early to see the cycling fans set up picnic tables at designated spots, it’s quite a sight.

 

Countries, Europe, Sport, UK

Our Euros rematch with Germany… at foosball

And their trip up to Edinburgh gave us the chance of our Euros rematch with Germany… at foosball.

Of course, damningly, the Germans were even better at the table football version.

And we lost 8-2, with the Germans as gracious in victory as they were after our Munich mullering.

Mine host Harald looked after us, for our double matchday function at Riddles Court, as well as any Munich bierkeller owner.

You’ll perhaps have heard how the 200,000-strong Tartan Army drank Munich dry.

And that is no small beer in boozy Bavaria.

Swiss timing

Rolling along: Swiss sports

The Tartan Army, of course, packed up camp and moved on to their next base for the match against Switzerland in Cologne.

And the Swiss were outnumbered here among the Scottish guests at Riddles Court as they were in the Koln stadium.

Food for thought

Parklife: Schlossplatz in Stuttgart

With a point now in the bag and qualification still alive it’s now Hungary in Stuttgart.

Where we picked up a little local knowledge from the mayor of Stuttgart, no less, on what culinary treats await.

So that’ll be the Schwäbische Maultaschen then, a large ravioli, filled with meat, onions and spinach.

Say schnaps: In Munich

Or the Zwiebelrostbraten, literally an ‘onion roast’ with the beef cooked in a gravy flavored with garlic and the onions.

All washed down with the Stuttgarter Hobrau and a schnaps chaser which the Scots will learn about soon enough.

This Scot was a quick learner when he was presented with a shot glass and a stein at the Hofbrauhaus in Munich.

A different ball game

New balls please: Teqball

Now, of course, that many Scots can’t be shoehorned even into the biggest stadium and that’s where fanzones come into play.

And the fanzone in Schlossplatz boasts a football pitch, beach football, foosball, e-sports and teqball.

Teqball, you say… well, it’s a cross between sepak takraw or foot volleyball and table tennis which will be new to all of us.

Bet the Germans are better than us and everyone else at that too.

Which we know all about from our Euros rematch with Germany… at foosball.

 

 

America, Countries, Sport

Boston Sporty Party for the Celtics

Eurocentrics listen up, there is other sport around the world, and the green bunting is up all around Beantown today as fans throw a Boston Sporty Party for the Celtics.

Bostonians rightly beam about their famous basketball team, and rightly so, as they are now inarguably the most successful NBA team of all time.

The Celtics had reluctantly shared that mantle with their greatest of rivals, the LA Lakers, on 17 titles before this week.

But the prospect of the exclusivity of an 18th title drove Jason Taytum, Jaylen Brown and the Celtics to a historic title.

With a 4-1 win over the game Dallas Mavericks.

Bostonians flying high

Now as well as the fanfare and receptions that will last all summer and right through to the resumption of the NBA.

The Celtics will earn an 18th pennant to be draped on the walls of Logan Airport alongside the other winners in New England’s proud history.

This millennium has been particularly kind to New England’s teams.

And not just because of Tom Brady at the Patriots.

Boston’s Big Four sports franchises have now delivered 14 titles this century.

And soon they’ll be needing to build another terminal at Logan.

To hang all their banners which includes the city’s other successes!

Now having been hosted like a Tom Brady or Larry Bird by the good people of Boston in the grand old city.

Back with my Boston buddies

It will be my pleasure to reciprocate this week in my adopted city of Edinburgh.

Where we will celebrate the Celtics’ success and hear what else is going down in New England.

As New Englanders, of course, the sports of the Olde Worlde have a foothold on the north-west coast.

And so the Gillette Stadium in Foxborough will be front and centre in two years’ time for the football World Cup.

With five group matches, a round of 32 match and a quarter-final booked for Boston.

Babe’s base and Tom’s temple

Now if you like your city break doused with history, culture, culinary.

And the best sports teams then Boston is waiting for you.

And following my travel mantra of going where people play and pray then see for yourself their sporting cathedrals.

Bear necessities: The Bruins

The TD Garden for the Celtics and the Boston Bruins ice hockey team.

And Fenway Park, where they’ve been coming to watch the best baseball.

Give it Sox: Fenway Park

From Cy Young, Babe Ruth and Jim Rice through Roger Clemens and Wade Boggs to David Ortiz and beyond.

And Tom Brady’s temple at Foxburgh.

Frequent flier from Dublin

Around for tea: The Boston Tea Party Museum

Now whatever your sporting special is you’ll find it in New England where the action never stops.

And the stadium tours like the Sam Adams tour is always in tap.

As ever with all things transatlantic the best route is through Dublin Airport with pre-clearance and Aer Lingus.

So, if you’re in Beantown lap up the celebrations and the Boston Sporty Party for the Celtics.

And if not find yourself some New Englanders to break bread with and plan your next trip out to Boston Sports City.

 

 

Countries, Europe, Sport

Herr for der beer in Gelsenkirchen

And for the day that’s in it we’re only herr for der beer in Gelsenkirchen.

Gelsenkirchen has been transformed into Little England or Little Serbia, if you will, as their supporters take over the Ruhrland for today’s Euros clash.

Now if the organisers had picked a venue especially for lager-loving England fans then it would be the VELTINS Arena.

Because they literally pipe in the beer to the stadium.

All 52,000 litres of the amber nectar along a 5km super beer highway from Schalke 04’s own brewery.

Flowing in the Frothierland

Ground hero: At the VELTINS

It all dates back to an open day at the ground when the beer ran out for the thirsty fans.

And the club took the pioneering decision to never again leave it to chance and keep the beer flowing in the Frothierland.

All of which we saw for ourselves in the aftermath of a Schalke game on a football tour of Ruhrland.

When we walked through the sticky concourse and into the main arena.

Where you’d be forgiven for thinking you were still in a tipsy haze because the pitch has gone.

Grounds for optimism

Tunnel vision: And Schalke legends

The efficient Germans have only put it out with the empties, it would seem.

But, nein, this is another ingenious feature of the VELTINS arena, the moveable pitch.

Schalke, you see keep their pitch outside and slide it in for match days.

So that they can use the arena for other attractions.

And what’s more important than any mere kickball match is that it will make more room for the Swifties.

When Tay-Tay sweeps into Gelsenkirchen next month.

For three days of partying for 180,000 good-natured music festivalgoers.

The lowdown

Scarf time: The Schalke tour

Alas though, and here is der kicker, different rules will apply today for the football fans of England and Serbia.

With the match deemed high risk and only allowed low alcohol beer at the ground.

While a special free UEFA Euro fan park had been erected on the Trabrenbahn racecourse in the centre of Gelsenkirchen for England fans.

‘Er outdoors: The pitch outside

Where there’s music, games and food and drinks stalls.

Now, if your tastebuds have been tickled by the thought of full-strength Ruhr lager.

And you are out in these parts, then lucky you.

Toast to the others

On the boardwalk: The versatile interior

And know this, there are three other matches to be played between countries who aren’t on probation.

So that’s Italy v Spain on Thursday, June 20 and Georgia v Portugal on Wednesday, June 26.

And then a round of 16 game between the first in Group C and the third in D/E/F (no, us neither).

Schalke fans, of course, get to imbibe every week of their season.

Tay to go: The OG Swiftie

And on all the other occasions such as when the Swifties are in town.

Or when party-loving, football fanatical good-hearted Scots are herr for der beer in Gelsenkirchen.

So if you’re in Gelsenkirchen this week, in the coming weeks or any time then wish the locals Gluck Auf.

It means luck up which is kinda similar to something that would come out of a English football hooligan’s mouth.

 

 

 

 

Countries, Europe, Food & Wine, Sport

At the football with the Germans in Munich

Football is an international language and we had Stein in common at the football with the Germans in Munich.

The Stein I was bigging up was the legendary Celtic and Scotland manager Jock Stein.

The Stein the Bayern Munich fan standing next to me was more familiar with was the drinking vessel beloved of Bavarians.

Prost: Topdeck in Munich

In between we took in the Bavarian derby, Bayern v Nuremberg, which the hosts won 1-0.

Before my head now full of gutteral-sounding German footballers I headed back to the Oktoberfest.

Only to walk into an argument between the girlfriends of opposing football fans outside the Hofbrauhuis.

Fighting frauleins

Hear me Ruhr: At Dortmund’s stadium

All of which I ought to have known about from too many Saturday nights out on the town back in Scotland.

And my act of gallantry ended up with one of the fighting frauleins catching me with a haymaker.

And the next thing I knew I was being ambulanced to the hospital with a suspected broken nose.

The German doctor was as efficient as you’d expect and an hour or so later I was back on the road.

Carry on camping

Schalke share: In Gelsenkirchen

Only dizzy with the beer and the bloody nose, I could not remember the camp site where I was staying.

Thankfully the taxi driver took a punt at the camp where the Aussies and Kiwis would annually fill up.

With the Antipodeans my coach mates for the week.

Now if the Munich Beerfest is Down Under Abroad at that time of year.

With the (very) odd Scot who has stumbled on to a budget Top Deck coach thrown in for good measure.

Then this weekend is all about the Jocks with 200,000 Tartan Army foot soldiers having invaded the Bavarian capital.

Munich revisited

Let’s have a lav: German footie humour

It’s 40 years since my act of chivalry at Oktoberfest.

Jock Stein died later that year after collapsing on the touchline helping Scotland en route to World Cup qualification.

I would hope though that my Munich mate is still cheering on his beloved Bayern.

That the two frauleins made up and now warn their kinder to behave when they go to the football.

See ja in Berlin: For the final

And to indulge well-meaning hairy-faced Scotsmen who just wants all football fans to be freundes.

Just like I have gone on to be from the Ruhr to Hamburg and all points east and south.

And will be there in spirit with the Tartan Army as Schottland face Deutschland in the Euro 24 opener.

At the football with the Germans in Munich.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Countries, Europe, Sport, UK

A centennial tribute to Olympian Eric Liddell

On this slow summer Sunday let’s pick up the pace a bit with a centennial tribute to Olympian Eric Liddell.

Liddell’s legend lives on less in his home country of Scotland than on the big screen.

As the God-fearing star of the Oscar-winning Chariots of Fire.

The film which chronicled his and fellow British sprinter Harold Abrahams at the 1924 Paris Olympics.

With Liddell entering the pantheon of sporting greats by winning the 400m gold.

Scotland the wave: Liddell’s style

But only after sacrificing his place in his favoured event of the 100m.

Because it would have involved him having to run on a Sunday, the Lord’s day.

Bring Eric into the open

Happy Hundred: Liddell fans inside Edinburgh University

Now you would imagine that such heroism would have earned Liddell a permanent podium in a town square.

But, of course, this prophet in his own land was overlooked for the usual slavers and empire builders who look down on us from plinths.

Higher plane: The church tribute

And the Flying Scotsman is hidden away in Eltham College (no, us neither).

And hidden inside his alma mater of Edinburgh University.

Also as a stained glass window in a church in Holy Corner in Morningside in the Scottish capital.

Paris revisited

Pure ballet: Eltham College Liddell

The great sprinter will no doubt be eulogised by commentators in the City of Light to inspire our Paris 2024 hopefuls.

Without a mention that China, who will no doubt be pilloried by our Little Britainers, pay more homage to Liddell than we do.

And there is a statue of Liddell at his Japanese internment camp in China.

People’s hero: In China

With the People’s Republic even claiming the Chinese-born Liddell as their first Olympic champion.

With a memorial to the Scot who lies there for eternity having died doing missionary work in the Far East.

It might be worth reflecting that the original Olympians in Hellas performed for the greater glory of the Gods.

While today’s athletes compete for greater riches, clicks and social media followers.

The OG Olympians

With the Gods: The Classic heroes

Those OG (as the Gen Z millennials) Olympians in Greece would call them became immortalised in statue.

And wouldn’t it be fitting then as a centennial tribute to Olympian Eric Liddell?

To erect a town square statue to a real Edinburgh hero… and we salute the sterling work of the steering group The Eric Liddell 100.

And God knows, there is no shortage of redundant erections around the city which we could start ripping down now.

 

Countries, Europe, Sport

Ruhr Champions roar

And despite the love-in for Madrid there is a match to be played out tonight and an authentic football base to be sated… so let’s give out a Ruhr Champions  roar.

Borussia Dortmund v Real Madrid is truly a clash of styles and cultures.

Dortmund, the fans-owned people’s club from the German industrial heartland with the Yellow Wall at their back.

And in the white corner, Real, the King’s and State’s club with the tapas and rioja guzzlers in the corporate boxes backing them.

Of course, I’ve known about Real, just like you, as long as I’ve known about football.

On my account because Los Blancos had won the last of their five-in-a-row European Cups in 1960.

In front of a 137,000 crowd at Hampden, Glasgow, which included Alex Ferguson… and my Dear Old Dad.

Pin it on Dortmund

Tunnel vision: Dortmund’s stadium

Of course when the Spaniards came to Glasgow to play the clubs here it was always a big deal.

But it was a night in the early 90s where I formed an interest in their opponents tonight, Borussia Dortmund.

When a German reporter on the local Dortmund paper entered the press box.

And started handing out club pins for the Scots, myself included, reporting on that night’s game with Celtic.

It wasn’t just the start of a friendship between both press packs but also between both clubs despite Celtic overturning the Cologne first leg lead that night.

Legendary players transferred between the clubs, Murdo Macleod to the Ruhr Valley.

And Paul Lambert, fresh from winning the European Cup with  Dortmund, to Parkhead.

Wrong step for ex-players

Ja beauty: Come on Borussia

Tonight Dortmund will try and repeat that feat and it would be just as big an upset as it was back in 1997 when they defeated another European behemoth Juventus, of Italy.

Now every club holds their legends dear, and are suspicious of those, who hotfoot it for bigger riches and especially to rivals Bayern Munich.

Which is how it was when Dortmund star Robert Lewandowski returned from Munich to play his old team.

And was told that he had to walk down the unlucky steps into the ground as he was now ‘one of them.’

Kloppelganger

Double Klopp: With my Dortmund guide

One who is undoubtedly ‘one of us’, or a Dortmunder, is Jurgen Klopp, who is held in high regard for his time there.

So much so that they even have a doppelganger taking the tours around the stadium.

In best Ruhr tradition food and drink complement the football fun of visiting the changing rooms and the home dugout.

And you will be able to drink the local beer, sausages and meaty fun pitchside.

And hear how Kloppie’s wife would bake cakes for the team until his successor Killjoy Thomas Tuchel put a stop to it.

Here we go Dortmund 

A wee reminder: German football humour

Stand too in the Yellow Wall which will certainly prompt a visit for a match which is considerably cheaper than at Real, or in English football.

Football fans around Europe who haven’t enjoyed the delights of Dortmund before will invariably do so this month at Euro 2024.

And if they have the stomach visit the German Football Museum.

And marvel at the stories behind their four World Cup triumphs and three Euro titles (to date).

Of course they’ll have a say in this year’s tournament (despite Scotland’s imminent victory in the opener) and if they do win it you’ll hear the Ruhr Champions Roar.  

Asia, Countries, Sport

The new 19th hole, Thai golf therapy off course

It’s always been my best hole, in the bar afterwards, but that might change with the new 19th hole, Thai golf therapy off course.

I’ve spent a lifetime persisting in the belief that because I hail from Scotland, the Home of Golf, I will eventually master the game.

Only to thrash around courses from Aberdeen to Ireland to Royal Lytham to Liverpool to Cannes.

Each time playing one or two good irons to delude me into thinking I should give the Royal & Ancient game another shot.

There’s probably something in what Mark Twain said about golf being a good walk ruined.

Only I’d take it further and agree with Robin Williams’ assessment on golf… it’s torture.

Which is where eastern zen has come in to help.

Total golf

Wellness pioneer Chiva-Som Hua Hin in Thailand is expanding its menu with the launch of the Total Golf Enhancement Retreat.

Total Golf Enhancement supports guests in developing their game, as well as post-golf muscle recovery and relaxation.

Every Chiva-Som retreat begins with a Health and Wellness Consultation.

So you’ll get a golf fitness assessment, golf fitness training and a golf lesson.

All of which supports endurance, range of motion, strength and balance, as well as reducing the risk of injury.

Improvement is assessed by one of Chiva-Som’s in-house pros during your rounds, providing guests with health insights. 

The next course

Claret Jock: That year’s Champion Golfer

The golf will be links, by the sea, at nearby 18-hole Sea Pines Golf Course in Hua Hin.

For those looking to vary their golfing locations there is…

Black Mountain, a nine-hole course location and Pineapple Valley Golf Course, an award-winning 18-hole course, at an extra charge.

Now the next bit on Thailand is where Chiva-Som really scores, a 50-minute Deep Tissue Massage.

And a complimentary Aloe Body Mask to support skin recovery following a day outdoors.

Additionally, you’ll get unlimited access to the Water Therapy Suite.

All of which includes a steam room, sauna and Jacuzzi.

Food for thought

Straight to the point: Chiva-Som

Now Chiva-Som encourages rather than discourages eating that lovely Thai food.

So guests can enjoy exceptional Wellness Cuisine at the resort’s signature beachside Taste of Siam restaurant.

With veg, fruits, and other edible plants sourced from Chiva-Som’s Organic Gardens.

The retreat offers guests the choice of a daily treatment.

Water of life: R&R time

A traditional Thai Massage, Chiva-Som Signature Massage, Invigorating Massage, Relaxing Foot Massage, Oriental Scalp Massage, Hydrotherapy, a manicure or a pedicure.

In addition to the optional physical analysis on arrival, guests can undertake a complimentary skin analysis.

The inclusion of a post-stay consultation supports guests in continuing their sustainable wellbeing journey at home.

All’s well

Vegas baby: Shooting the lights out

The Total Golf Enhance Retreat is available on a five, seven, and 10-night basis.

That’s inclusive of an individual health and wellness consultation.

A complimentary treatment per night of stay, three wellness cuisine meals per night, daily fitness and leisure activities.

And unlimited use of the Water Therapy Suite as well as at least one round of golf.

Those staying 10 nights in Thailand can also benefit from an included golf lesson.

Deal us in

Five-night Total Golf Enhancement Retreats start from THB 24,000++ (£520pp per night for a double occupancy and THB 32,000++ (£670pp) per night for a single occupancy. 

It’s enough to make you get the clubs back out and give it another go.

And I do live in officially the best place to reside in Britain North Berwick, looking out over the links golf course.

Or perhaps head for your nearest golf range, and as I’ve shown in Portugal, Las Vegas and a simulator in Turkish Airways airport lounge in Istanbul.

I do a lot less damage with a net up.

So for all us golf duffers let’s take heart.

From the new 19th hole Thai golf therapy off course.

Countries, Europe, Sport

In praise of La Dea and Bergamo’s Atalanta

For the day that’s in it and seeing they’ll be celebrating at home and in Dublin we’re happy to join in… in praise of La Dea and Bergamo’s Atalanta.

La Dea is the nickname of the Lombardian city’s football, or calcio, team.

Named for the Greek goddess of athleticism Atalanta whose face and flowing locks are incorporated on the club’s crest.

Despite their lofty benefactress Atalanta are by no means one of Italy’s powerhouses.

Ripping up the script

Forza Atalanta: In Bergamo

With them cast in the shadow of their bigger neighbour Milano.

And mistaken for giants Internazionale on account of sharing the same colours, black and blue stripes.

And another moniker which they share with Milano, gli Nerazurri (black-blues).

Only Atalanta’s strip is the result of two Bergamo teams, wearing black and white stripes and blue and white stripes, merging.

Hair today: Barber of Bergamo

Atalanta, as all but the Little Englanders who think football only exists in the Premier League recognised, won the Europa League last night in neutral Dublin.

Ripping up the script by beating Germans Bayer Leverkusen… something no team had achieved all season.

Heroes of Covid

That the Bergamaschi were underdogs against the Germans was unsurprising and it is a mantle they are long used to wearing.

But that they prevailed against the odds could well have been predicted by those who know the unsurpassed resilience of the Bergamaschi.

I visited Bergamo in the throes of Covid as a guest of Visit Bergamo, booking platform Omio and Ryanair.

Water from the gods? In Citta Alta

A mere couple of months after the virus had first entered Europe here.

And saw first hand how the citizens’ bond with their football team had kept up spirits during the crisis.

It helps too that Italian football teams, and Europe in general, don’t fleece their fans with a seat on the curve at the Atalanta ground from €13.

The Irish were here: In Citta Alta

The Bergamaschi steeled each other with the heartening slogan Mola Mia (Never Give Up) which they hung from scarves and flags from windows.

In Citta Alta and Citta Bassa, the high and low cities, during lockdown, and all In Atalanta black and blue.’

A thousand hugs

Funicular fun: Up up and away from Citta Bassa

There will then be hugs galore in Bergamo today which will go on and on and on.

Much like it was in 2016 when they set a Guinness World Record around the Venetian walls.

When 1,250 Bergamaschi lined up around the 5km perimeter of the historic monument and hugged each other one at a time.

It is a record of which they are rightly proud and the mayoral team were keen to share with me when I visited.

Although alas because of Covid restrictions I was unable to reciprocate.

While we did promise when next we met we would.

My mate Matteo

Stars in stripes: Atalanta support

I save an extra big hug, of course, for the new amico I met in my days in Bergamo, my Visit Bergamo guide Matteo.

Who took me up and down hill, bringing me to the best trattorias, wine bars, museums and opera houses.

And sharing laughs and stories, many personal and family tales, along the way.

We bumped elbows and exchanged a Ciao in Hotel Excelsior San Marco 

And will get our hug, and maybe make it 1,252, around the old Venetian walls.

When we meet in praise of La Dea and Bergamo’s Atalanya.