America, Countries, Europe, Ireland, UK

St Stephen’s Day v Boxing Day which is better?

Straddling Britain and Ireland means switching Christmas hats… so St Stephen’s Day v Boxing Day which is better?

Just one of the many cultural differences between the two islands is in what we call the Day After Christmas.

Being the first Christian martyr, St Stephen, of course, came before the consumerist Boxing Day.

And he has the jump on the alternative by dint of being by appointment to the Almighty.

With the Church decreeing early that the first martyr should bank the day after the day of Jesus’s birthday.

While Boxing Day had to wait until 1833, with Queen Victoria’s seat still warm on the throne.

When the aristocracy handed down some crumbs from their table.

From Melbourne to Massachussetts

Get into costume: Boston, Massachusetts

The upper classes would box up gifts and give them to their servants, the poor or tradespeople the day after Christmas Day.

Now as you’d expect Boxing Day took root in the countries of Empire, now Commonwealth, and are still celebrated today.

With Boxing Day in Melbourne, Australia, noted for its Test Match at the Melbourne Cricket Ground, or MCG.

Although England, on the end of an Ashes humiliation, aren’t doing much partying.

Randomly, there is a corner of America where Boxing Day is a thing and that is in the least likely, Patriots’ Massachusetts.

Where since 1996 it’s been celebrated, in response to the efforts of a coalition of British citizens to ‘transport the English tradition to the United States’.

Long to wren over us

Czech it out: On the King Charles Bridge in Prague

Stephen’s Day, on the other hand, is where the rest of the Christian world outside of the King’s hails the first Christian martyr.

And where the Good King Wenceslas first looked out in Prague, with his pizza deep pan, crisp and even.

The best tradition though, and we are biased here, is in Ireland.

Where Stephen’s Day is also called Wren Day… well, they would have two names for it.

It goes back to the legend that a wren’s cooing gave away Stephen.

Dress the part: Mummer’s Festival

 

And where Wrenboys, dressed in masks and costumes sang songs and played music for money,.

And used to hunt for wrens although now they’re carried around as stuffed or fake wren.

Then there’s the Mummer’s Festival, held every year in the village of New Inn, County Galway, and Dingle in County Kerry.

From Magyars to Murtys

Folklore: Budapest

While there’s also a Magyar Festival, a fertility ritual, which we discovered on our travels this year.

Where Hungarians wear sheepskin furs and use a bagpipe and a chained stick to make music. 

Our household of all nations, for our part is called ‘You do the Christmas clean-up Day’.

 

Countries, Flying, Ireland

A dog is for Christmas with Aer Lingus

And a Joyeux Noel to all our pets and why a dog is for Christmas with Aer Lingus.

All animal lovers will know the challenges of transporting their creatures great and small at this time of year.

And our first-born, Celtic the Cat, would travel up in the back of the plane with a wee sleeping jag to help him with the journey.

Not that he would have needed it as he would sleep on Herself’s lap on the motorway into work in Berkshire back in the day… don’t tell!

Things are looking up: Wee Celtic

We’ll all have our tails (sorry) about how we reunite with our pets or bring them home.

And just like us they don’t like waiting in a tailback on the motorway.

Which, and don’t shoot us here, is why short-haul flights are often the answer.

Puppy heroes

Christmutts cheer: With Aer Lingus

Our friends at Aer Lingus certainly know how to look after our furry friends.

As can be seen here with Aer Lingus cabin crew member Pedro de Barros giving a warm welcome to Autism Assistance Dogs Ireland’s superhero puppies.

Or Rocket, Hulk and Phoenix to their friends, as they checked in at Dublin Airport today. 

The three golden labradors, who are just 8 weeks old, were flying with Aer Lingus to Brussels.

Where they will begin specialised training to become life-changing assistance dogs for autistic children. 

Aer Lingus worked closely with Autism Assistance Dogs Ireland, a Cork-based charity dedicated to providing assistance dogs to families of autistic children.

To ensure the pups travel safely and comfortably. 

That’s a brood

Donegal doggies tale: With my Dear Old Dad

The puppies are part of a record-breaking litter of 15 golden labradors born in Co Tipperary in October to Labrador parents, Omma and Mango.

Which in Grandpa McNulty’s day wasn’t unusual for country folk, as he was the youngest of 15 in the Donegal townland of Brockagh.

The pups, nine male and six female, are all named after superheroes.  

And I’m thinking here that my Grandpa’s poor mum was something of a hero herself.

Over the next two years, the adorable litter will transform from playful pups into expertly trained companions.

And they’ll offer independence and support to children who need them most. 

My pet project

Shoulder the responsibility: With Rufus

Remember too to spoil your pets this Christmas.

Because remember a certain little donkey and shepherds tending their flock at night were all part of the first Christmas. 

And, of course, there will always be a home on my lap for the neighbourhood cat, Rufus.

Who we expect will get more Christmas dinners than anybody.

 

 

America, Countries, Deals, Flying, Ireland

Eiretale of New York

And it’s an Eiretale of New York which is enough to get the boys of the NYPD choir singing Galway Bay.

With the Tourism Ireland team getting an early Christmas gift in the form of a Best Destination in Europe award for the 12th year in a row.

Beating off heavyweight France, Greece, Italy, Spain, Portugal and Croatia at the New York bash.

Prize guys: Tourism Ireland’s Alison Metcalfe and Paul McDonagh

Subscribers to Travel Weekly Readers’ Choice who held their 23rd Awards in New York may not be aware or little care.

But the NYPD do not actually boast a choir.

Although they do have a Pipes and Drums band who played on the video.

And who mimed the words to the Mickey Mouse March because they didn’t know the lyrics to Galway Bay.

An Epic revision

We found them: The NYPD choir

You can only imagine Shane MacGowan took some artistic licence because boys of the NYPD Pipes and Drums band didn’t scan as well.

Of course, it’s a birthright of the Irish to lay claim to any number of truisms we now take for granted.

With St Patrick, actually a Welshman, the daddy of them all.

Something to sing about: Galway Bay

And it is in that rich tradition that Shane and Epic the Irish Emigration Museum have followed.

With the award-winning tourist attraction marking the Great Man’s passing two years ago by assembling their very own NYPD choir.

To sing Galway Bay, just before the bells on Christmas Day.

All on video as part of the They Gave the Walls a Talking exhibition to showcase the diaspora.

Which Shane of course did more to champion than most.

Singing Galway Bay

Bing sings: The voice of Christmas

It was one-such Irish emigrant Dr Arthur Colahan, native of Fermanagh but reared in County Galway who wrote the much-loved song about the City of Tribes while living in Leicester.

While it was another Irish-American, Bing Crosby, whose mother Catherine Harrigan’s family hailed from County Cork who popularised the song.

Making Galway Bay at one point the biggest selling record of all time.

Ain’t that a Shane: Shane MacGowan

And you can’t get better Christmas cred than Bing and Shane a double act we’d have loved to have seen.

And we’ve even come up with the perfect collab… Eiretale of New York.

While Aer Lingus will fly you to the Big Apple with pre-clearance out of the Oul Country and we found a sample return flight from €566.76 for next month.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Countries, Ireland

Bumping into Yeats in Sligo

And we shall have some peace there, for peace comes dropping slow… or our tale of bumping into Yeats in Sligo.

Because like father, like son, Himself let curiosity get the better of him in the WB Yeats Building in Sligo in north-west Ireland.

And touched the side of what he thought was a statue but was really a contemplative visitor.

Just like his Dad had done years before.

To an inscrutable Japanese in the Chamber of Horrors in Madame Tussaud’s in London.

In truth, Tussaud’s sets you up for a fall.

By placing statues of people in everyday pose such as reading a paper (remember those).

Around its halls and rooms.

Mythical, mystical Sligo

House of fun: Jewel of Sligo

Or maybe the Father and the Son just have wild imaginations and are easily distracted.

Which is easy to do in magical, mythical, mystical Sligo.

Our high-end travel provider pals Adams & Butler lift us onto a higher plane, as they always, do on tour.

We’ll meet guide Aidan McCormack from Visit Sligo.

And breathe in the landscape which deeply influenced his poetry with its landscapes.

Such as The Lake Isle of Innisfree.

Do not pass by

Wherever green is worn: Yeats’ grave in Sligo

WB Yeats is buried in the graveyard beside Drumcliffe church in Ben Bulben’s shadow.

With the epitaph from his poem Under Ben Bulben inscribed on his tombstone, 

And the salutary message ‘Cast a cold Eye On Life, on Death. Horseman pass by.’

Temple of boom

Grandeur: Temple House

A&B flag up Temple House in Sligo, the cherished Perceval family home since 1665.

They say Temple House offers an authentic Georgian manor country house experience

Where historic grandeur meets genuine warmth.

A&B accepts it might not be a 5* experience from an accommodation point of view.

But that it makes up for that in Irish hospitality. 

All on a 1,000-acre private estate with a a 13th-century Knights Templar castle.

Check out Adams & Butler for best rates and packages.

Ireland

A Wild Rover for many the year

I’ve been a Wild Rover for many the year but have yet to take the lead of an award-winning coach company which knows Ireland like, well the back of their paw.

Now Wild Rover Tours provide day tours from Dublin to all the favourites.

So that’ll be the Cliffs of Moher & Galway and their award-winning Northern Ireland Highlights tours.

Including Belfast, Titanic Quarter and the Giant’s Causeways.

All of which should be on every Hibernophile’s list.

The Garden of Ireland is rosy

Killing it: Kilkenny

But you’ll not be surprised to see that we’ve alighted on our old stomping ground of Wicklow, the Garden of Ireland.

Wild Rover has packaged in Glendalough, Wicklow & Kilkenny and even sheep farm and dog trials.

The 6th-century Kilkenny City is known for its 6th century monastery built in honour of St Canice and was once capital of Confederate Ireland.

These days it’s the capital of hurling.

Wild Rover will offer you a 45-minute guided walking tour of the narrow streets and the grounds of the Norman castle which dates from 1172.

And learn its storied history, the site of the earliest recorded witch trial, the battles with Oliver Cromwell’s Roundheads, the Vikings presence and its boast today of being the Cultural Capital of Ireland.

Braveheart territory

Shining bright: Glendalough

No Irish coach tour would be complete with a trip through mountains and glens.
And if you can almost feel like you’re stomping through history then it is because you are.
With Wicklow Gap and Wicklow Mountains film location of movies such as Braveheart, Excalibur, PS, I Love you and the TV series Vikings

The Glendalough valley is of course a much-trodden path for anyone who has had the fortune to live in these parts.

And you’ll enjoy a 30-minute guided walking tour in the ruins of St Kevin’s Monastery.

And see the 30m 1th-century granite round tower standing over 30 metres, built by monks to protect themselves from those marauding Vikings.

Dog days

Take me to church: Ancient Ireland

Now where Wild Rover scores above the other tours for us is that you can truly go native with. say the sheep dog trial.

A favourite of my Dear Old Dad’s when he was a-courting my Donegal mum back in the day… us Glaswegians know how to woo a woman.

And WR afford the visitor the opportunity to join a real Irish shepherd at work together with his best friend the Border Collie sheepdog.

Rover’s return: Sheepdog trials

The dog, listening to the whistling sounds from the shepherd, will herd the sheep across fields.

Through gates and fencing into corrals, out again over ditches around trees and right to your feet.

And depending on the time of the year you will also have the opportunity to hold and feed a baby lamb.

And all for just €40 from Dublin’s Fair City.

 

Countries, Ireland

Derry Scary Ghouls

So how does a town of 85,000 in the north-west of Ireland become Europe’s Halloween capital… well, it’s a tale of Derry Scary Ghouls.

Derry, was, of course, catapulted into popular consciousness for those outside its famous walls by the sitcom Derry Girls.

And one of the favourite of the many iconic murals in the Town I Loved So Well now is of those Derry Girls and the ‘English boy’.

Now there would be a case for the force of nature that is Sister Michael having her special place at Samhain too.

Best bar none

Crackin’: Derry Girls wall

Of course, Ireland, proudly claims the Halloween festival as having its origins on the island.

And that the Irish brought their traditions and customs with them across to Britain, America and the world. 

Now like almost everything else Irish, Derry’s place in the story started in a pub.

Back in 1985 which makes this year’s 40th anniversary Halloween celebrations all the bigger and better.

It was then that landlord Brian Doherty threw a seasonal party in his bar, possibly to lift people’s spirits from the Troubles.

It surprised nobody that it was a huge success, spilling out on to the streets… alas, though because of a bomb scare.

Derry old time

Fireworks: Lighting up the city

A defiant lot though the Derry folk they would not be put off and the city council set up a small stage in Guildhall Square the next year.

With live music, marking the start of an official city-organised celebration.

Among the festivities over the four days, October 28-31, which draw tens of thousands to Derry.

Old Derry’s walls

Child’s play: But it’s fun for all

Visitors are encouraged to follow the Awakening the Walled City Trail through six atmospheric zones to find out more about the folklore and heritage that makes this place so special.

And savour the Samhain Market or treat the kids to a Trick or Treat Trail & Kids’ Disco at the Guildhall… or hands-on workshops.

The main programme peaks with the fabulous Halloween Carnival Parade on October 31.

As thousands of costumed revellers take to the streets before the skies above the River Foyle blaze in a breathtaking Fireworks Finale.

 

Countries, Food, Ireland

Waterford blaa, blaa, blaa

Someone tell First Dates maitre d’hotel Fred Sirieix but Waterford blaa, blaa, blaa is not an Irish person droning on.

But a specialised bread that would raise his fellow Channel Four TV host Paul Hollywood’s interest.

All of which the French gastronome will discover when he takes his Tour de Fred series on the road for its second series in Ireland.

After sampling all that the north has to offer first time around, including the Mournes and Strangford Lough, Belfast, the Causeway Coast and the walled city of Derry, this time he’s heading south.

Fred will be exploring Wexford, Waterford and Cork for the new series.

Which he bills Tour de Fred – Part Deux.

All supported by Tourism Ireland’s International Programming Ireland Fund and Irish Ferries.

Filming for the five-part series, due to air on ITV1 and ITVX next year, has been taking place over the past few weeks.

Cycle of history

Make it a date: Fred Sirieix

Viewers will see Fred explore and meet passionate locals in Wexford, Waterford and Cork.

And, of course, take part in a cycle challenge or two along the way.

Ah, mais oui, that’ll be the Tour de Fred bit them.

From beautiful coastlines and historic sites to artisan producers and vibrant towns.

Fred will introduce British viewers on a fun and exciting journey.

That’s crystal clear then

Bread of heaven: Kevin Dundon

And just because we’re being helpful and Fred may be more Franglais despite his years in Britain.

We’re glad to clue him on Ireland’s sunny south-east.

And Waterford Blaa and how renowned Irish chef Kevin Dundon makes them.

Although being the foodie that he is and because blaa has a French connection then he might already know.

That it was introduced by French Huguenots in the late 17th century.

And such is its inextricable link with Waterford, on a par with its crystal, it has been recognised with Protected Geographical Indication status.

So that only blaas made in County Waterford can carry the name.

The word blaa is thought to come from the French word blanc, or white.

And blaas are enjoyed with various fillings, butter and jam and our favourites bacon. 

Right said Fred

Family bond: With Andrea

Fred, naturellement, fell in love with Ireland following his trip up north which was watched by two million Brits.

He said: ‘I am absolutely thrilled to be back in the saddle for a second series of Tour de Fred.

‘The first series was a real joy and now I get to explore a different region of the beautiful island of Ireland.

‘I’m excited to embrace all the rich history, incredible food and breathtaking landscapes of south east Ireland along the Copper Coast.

‘And, of course, meet the charismatic locals.

‘Joining me on the last leg will be my daughter Andrea.

‘And I can’t wait to bring viewers on this next adventure with us!’

 

America, Countries, Food & Wine, Ireland

How to pour the perfect pint of Guinness

And you’d expect the owner of the company at least to know how to pour the perfect pint of Guinness, but alas not.

Edward Guinness’s cack-handed tilt is, of course, not the only inaccuracy in The House of Guinness, but it is the most serious.

Eddie makes a set piece of showing Fenian firebrand Ellen how to pour the stout out of a bottle in the Stephen Knight Netflix series.

Using the whole theatre of the moment in a posh Dublin hotel.

Tilting in wrong direction

Every cloud: She’s gone early

To point out that patience is essential for the perfect Guinness.

And that the same ought to be applied to the fight for an Irish republic.

Only that he has the tilt all wrong and that the head is too thin.

Now, as with all matters, we always go the experts.

And in the absence of my Donegal hotelier grandpa or my four Irish publican uncles. I’ll settle on the next big thing.

The Guinness Storehouse at St James’s Gate in The Liberties, Dublin who advise.

The initial pour

Settling down: Just how it should be

Hold your glass at a 45-degree angle and aim the tap nozzle for the gold harp logo.

Pour until you reach the top of the harp, then stop.

Let it settle

Accessorise: With your own image

Set the Guinness down and let it rest, which is called the ‘surge and settle’ phase.

The darker stout slowly sinks under the creamy, white foam.

Top off the pint

What goes up: Gravity Bar

Settle your drink for about a minute beforeyou fill up the rest of the glass.

With the glass straight, fill until the foam forms a dome for the perfect Guinness head.

And all of which I learned first hand for myself in a little corner of Ireland.

They call Las Vegas and Rí Rá Irish Pub at The Shoppes at Mandalay Place.

America, Countries, Ireland, Sport

Steel yourself for Irish Gridiron spice bags

And as American Footballers take over Dublin this weekend steel yourself for Irish Gridiron spice bags.

Taking two of the cultural culinary staples of Pittsburgh and the Irish capital.

To create the Steel Bag,

Sponsors Aer Lingus are blending the homegrown take-away treat of a Spice Bag with Pittsburgh favourites like melted cheese and meats.

Which, of course, we know is a variation on a Philly Cheesesteak, but whisper that around Steel City.

While anyone who has been brought up, or reared their kids in Ireland, will be familiar with the smells of a Spice Bag from a weekend out.

Bag it up

Irish staple: The spice bag

Your bag is a mix of deep-fried salt and chilli chips, salt and shredded chilli chicken or wings, red and green and chili peppers, fried onions and a variety of spices.

That we’ve honed in on Pittsburgh rather than opponents Minnesota Vikings is no sleight.

On those brave men of the Mid West.

But rather because the Pennsylvanians have long had stronger links with Ireland,.

Particularly the Steelers owners, the Rooney family, whose rich Irish heritage dates back to the 1840s.

Striking Vikings: Minnesota

With the team’s fanbase, Steeler Nation, having also travelled across the Atlantic in huge numbers to see their team play on Irish soil.

Now gridiron fans who were around Earlsfort Terrace yesterday would doubtless have done a double take.

To see Steelers legend Brett Keisel rolling up his sleeves, serving the fusion feast.

Tailgate party on

Say cheese: Cheesesteaks and Arnold Palmers

And who knows the new dish might take on and the Steeler Nation might bring it back with them to adopt at their Tailgate parties?

Now, no quarter has been given in turning Dublin and the Aviva into an American Football outpost for the weekend.

With a Steelers Fan Tailgate set up at Merrion Square, presented by Aer Lingus.

With football themed fun for all the family.

Man of Steel: Pittsburgh’s ‘secret weapon’?

And fans can learn more about all the Steelers’ Black & Gold activities taking place in Ireland on the footie team’s website and the Vikings can be found on their site too.

Six-time Super Bowl Steelers entered a four-year partnership with Aer Lingus this year.

Establishing the airline as the Official Airline of Steelers Ireland and a Founding Partner of Steelers Ireland.

Deal us in

Aer we go: Aer Lingus and Pittsburgh Steelers

And Aer Lingus offers convenient travel options for fans from the US making their way to Dublin for the game.

With the airline flying 21 direct routes from North America to Ireland in 2025.

For next year, Aer Lingus will fly two new transatlantic routes from Dublin to Cancún, Mexico, and Raleigh-Durham in the US.

We found return flights with the national airline carrier through Dublin with pre-clearance from €815.65 for sample dates in October.

 

Countries, Ireland

Standing in the middle of the pool

They do things differently in Ireland so don’t be surprised to get blocked by oul biddies standing in the middle of the pool.

The Grand Hotel where said oul biddies congregate is an institution in the coastal town of Malahide, nine miles north of Dublin.

An old favourite of ours, it is getting a makeover when we revisit, in need of their legendary Sunday carvery.

Only to find that the new American owners have packed it away in favour of fine dining in the restaurant.

Which means we hold our family reunion in the bar.

Though to be fair their seafood is of the supersized variety and is so fresh it could be aroused if you only wagged its tail.

A stroke of luck

Statues: The Arena Health club

We arouse ourselves too after a night of reminiscing, for a reviving swim in the hotel’s Arena health club, across the pathway.

Where Fionnuala and Bridgid obviously like to meet for their catch-up, bang in the middle of one of the swimming lanes.

Standing up and wagging their tails as they bellyache.

And blocking this breastroker’s passage to the other end.

Not that they’re in any way acting differently to those who actually swim.

As I’m given out to for catching one of them with my back-kick.

Bullish in the Irish Sea

Sea us: North Dublin Swim Club

Better then if you have the whole sea to swim in as the North Dublin Swim club enjoy.

Off Bull Island, an idyllic 5-mile stretch off Clontarf, and a magnet for golfers, twitchers and dog walkers.

As well as sea swimmers, who pump up the volume and their boom box.

And brave the chilly, but reviving waters, all against the background of the Doonbeg Chimneys.

Out There

Me and the birds: In the Happy Out keep

All power to them as I was rarely brave enough in our 13 years in Ireland to test the waters.

Jumping in as quickly as I entered the iconic Forty Foot Dublin Bay bathing area in Dún Laoghaire, cited in James Joyce’s Ulysses.

Pride of place in the queue at the one shed/cafe on Bull island Happy Out should, of course, go to the plucky swimmers,

Only they are still drying off when we arrive.

Happy Out is friendly, attentive, our Scrambled Egg with bacon pots take the good part of 25 minutes.

Feathered friends

And our new chum in the hide that now constitutes the indoor eating area helps himself to some of that.

But we can’t be churlish, this is Stanny Starling and his feathered friends’ island and we are only visitors.

It is too Fionnuala and Brigid’s land so they are entitled to stand around in the middle of the pool if they please.

Feeding time: For Stanny

Because I am still, despite my 13 years in Ireland and Irish ancestry a blow-in.

Although if I do follow Daughterie’s lead and get myself an Irish passport as is my due I will get a full say.

And then you’ll have something to worry about.

A night’s classic twin room for two at the Grand is from €155 per night.