Countries, Ireland

Bumping into Yeats in Sligo

And we shall have some peace there, for peace comes dropping slow… or our tale of bumping into Yeats in Sligo.

Because like father, like son, Himself let curiosity get the better of him in the WB Yeats Building in Sligo in north-west Ireland.

And touched the side of what he thought was a statue but was really a contemplative visitor.

Just like his Dad had done years before.

To an inscrutable Japanese in the Chamber of Horrors in Madame Tussaud’s in London.

In truth, Tussaud’s sets you up for a fall.

By placing statues of people in everyday pose such as reading a paper (remember those).

Around its halls and rooms.

Mythical, mystical Sligo

House of fun: Jewel of Sligo

Or maybe the Father and the Son just have wild imaginations and are easily distracted.

Which is easy to do in magical, mythical, mystical Sligo.

Our high-end travel provider pals Adams & Butler lift us onto a higher plane, as they always, do on tour.

We’ll meet guide Aidan McCormack from Visit Sligo.

And breathe in the landscape which deeply influenced his poetry with its landscapes.

Such as The Lake Isle of Innisfree.

Do not pass by

Wherever green is worn: Yeats’ grave in Sligo

WB Yeats is buried in the graveyard beside Drumcliffe church in Ben Bulben’s shadow.

With the epitaph from his poem Under Ben Bulben inscribed on his tombstone, 

And the salutary message ‘Cast a cold Eye On Life, on Death. Horseman pass by.’

Temple of boom

Grandeur: Temple House

A&B flag up Temple House in Sligo, the cherished Perceval family home since 1665.

They say Temple House offers an authentic Georgian manor country house experience

Where historic grandeur meets genuine warmth.

A&B accepts it might not be a 5* experience from an accommodation point of view.

But that it makes up for that in Irish hospitality. 

All on a 1,000-acre private estate with a a 13th-century Knights Templar castle.

Check out Adams & Butler for best rates and packages.

Ireland

A Wild Rover for many the year

I’ve been a Wild Rover for many the year but have yet to take the lead of an award-winning coach company which knows Ireland like, well the back of their paw.

Now Wild Rover Tours provide day tours from Dublin to all the favourites.

So that’ll be the Cliffs of Moher & Galway and their award-winning Northern Ireland Highlights tours.

Including Belfast, Titanic Quarter and the Giant’s Causeways.

All of which should be on every Hibernophile’s list.

The Garden of Ireland is rosy

Killing it: Kilkenny

But you’ll not be surprised to see that we’ve alighted on our old stomping ground of Wicklow, the Garden of Ireland.

Wild Rover has packaged in Glendalough, Wicklow & Kilkenny and even sheep farm and dog trials.

The 6th-century Kilkenny City is known for its 6th century monastery built in honour of St Canice and was once capital of Confederate Ireland.

These days it’s the capital of hurling.

Wild Rover will offer you a 45-minute guided walking tour of the narrow streets and the grounds of the Norman castle which dates from 1172.

And learn its storied history, the site of the earliest recorded witch trial, the battles with Oliver Cromwell’s Roundheads, the Vikings presence and its boast today of being the Cultural Capital of Ireland.

Braveheart territory

Shining bright: Glendalough

No Irish coach tour would be complete with a trip through mountains and glens.
And if you can almost feel like you’re stomping through history then it is because you are.
With Wicklow Gap and Wicklow Mountains film location of movies such as Braveheart, Excalibur, PS, I Love you and the TV series Vikings

The Glendalough valley is of course a much-trodden path for anyone who has had the fortune to live in these parts.

And you’ll enjoy a 30-minute guided walking tour in the ruins of St Kevin’s Monastery.

And see the 30m 1th-century granite round tower standing over 30 metres, built by monks to protect themselves from those marauding Vikings.

Dog days

Take me to church: Ancient Ireland

Now where Wild Rover scores above the other tours for us is that you can truly go native with. say the sheep dog trial.

A favourite of my Dear Old Dad’s when he was a-courting my Donegal mum back in the day… us Glaswegians know how to woo a woman.

And WR afford the visitor the opportunity to join a real Irish shepherd at work together with his best friend the Border Collie sheepdog.

Rover’s return: Sheepdog trials

The dog, listening to the whistling sounds from the shepherd, will herd the sheep across fields.

Through gates and fencing into corrals, out again over ditches around trees and right to your feet.

And depending on the time of the year you will also have the opportunity to hold and feed a baby lamb.

And all for just €40 from Dublin’s Fair City.

 

Countries, Ireland

Derry Scary Ghouls

So how does a town of 85,000 in the north-west of Ireland become Europe’s Halloween capital… well, it’s a tale of Derry Scary Ghouls.

Derry, was, of course, catapulted into popular consciousness for those outside its famous walls by the sitcom Derry Girls.

And one of the favourite of the many iconic murals in the Town I Loved So Well now is of those Derry Girls and the ‘English boy’.

Now there would be a case for the force of nature that is Sister Michael having her special place at Samhain too.

Best bar none

Crackin’: Derry Girls wall

Of course, Ireland, proudly claims the Halloween festival as having its origins on the island.

And that the Irish brought their traditions and customs with them across to Britain, America and the world. 

Now like almost everything else Irish, Derry’s place in the story started in a pub.

Back in 1985 which makes this year’s 40th anniversary Halloween celebrations all the bigger and better.

It was then that landlord Brian Doherty threw a seasonal party in his bar, possibly to lift people’s spirits from the Troubles.

It surprised nobody that it was a huge success, spilling out on to the streets… alas, though because of a bomb scare.

Derry old time

Fireworks: Lighting up the city

A defiant lot though the Derry folk they would not be put off and the city council set up a small stage in Guildhall Square the next year.

With live music, marking the start of an official city-organised celebration.

Among the festivities over the four days, October 28-31, which draw tens of thousands to Derry.

Old Derry’s walls

Child’s play: But it’s fun for all

Visitors are encouraged to follow the Awakening the Walled City Trail through six atmospheric zones to find out more about the folklore and heritage that makes this place so special.

And savour the Samhain Market or treat the kids to a Trick or Treat Trail & Kids’ Disco at the Guildhall… or hands-on workshops.

The main programme peaks with the fabulous Halloween Carnival Parade on October 31.

As thousands of costumed revellers take to the streets before the skies above the River Foyle blaze in a breathtaking Fireworks Finale.

 

Countries, Food, Ireland

Waterford blaa, blaa, blaa

Someone tell First Dates maitre d’hotel Fred Sirieix but Waterford blaa, blaa, blaa is not an Irish person droning on.

But a specialised bread that would raise his fellow Channel Four TV host Paul Hollywood’s interest.

All of which the French gastronome will discover when he takes his Tour de Fred series on the road for its second series in Ireland.

After sampling all that the north has to offer first time around, including the Mournes and Strangford Lough, Belfast, the Causeway Coast and the walled city of Derry, this time he’s heading south.

Fred will be exploring Wexford, Waterford and Cork for the new series.

Which he bills Tour de Fred – Part Deux.

All supported by Tourism Ireland’s International Programming Ireland Fund and Irish Ferries.

Filming for the five-part series, due to air on ITV1 and ITVX next year, has been taking place over the past few weeks.

Cycle of history

Make it a date: Fred Sirieix

Viewers will see Fred explore and meet passionate locals in Wexford, Waterford and Cork.

And, of course, take part in a cycle challenge or two along the way.

Ah, mais oui, that’ll be the Tour de Fred bit them.

From beautiful coastlines and historic sites to artisan producers and vibrant towns.

Fred will introduce British viewers on a fun and exciting journey.

That’s crystal clear then

Bread of heaven: Kevin Dundon

And just because we’re being helpful and Fred may be more Franglais despite his years in Britain.

We’re glad to clue him on Ireland’s sunny south-east.

And Waterford Blaa and how renowned Irish chef Kevin Dundon makes them.

Although being the foodie that he is and because blaa has a French connection then he might already know.

That it was introduced by French Huguenots in the late 17th century.

And such is its inextricable link with Waterford, on a par with its crystal, it has been recognised with Protected Geographical Indication status.

So that only blaas made in County Waterford can carry the name.

The word blaa is thought to come from the French word blanc, or white.

And blaas are enjoyed with various fillings, butter and jam and our favourites bacon. 

Right said Fred

Family bond: With Andrea

Fred, naturellement, fell in love with Ireland following his trip up north which was watched by two million Brits.

He said: ‘I am absolutely thrilled to be back in the saddle for a second series of Tour de Fred.

‘The first series was a real joy and now I get to explore a different region of the beautiful island of Ireland.

‘I’m excited to embrace all the rich history, incredible food and breathtaking landscapes of south east Ireland along the Copper Coast.

‘And, of course, meet the charismatic locals.

‘Joining me on the last leg will be my daughter Andrea.

‘And I can’t wait to bring viewers on this next adventure with us!’

 

America, Countries, Food & Wine, Ireland

How to pour the perfect pint of Guinness

And you’d expect the owner of the company at least to know how to pour the perfect pint of Guinness, but alas not.

Edward Guinness’s cack-handed tilt is, of course, not the only inaccuracy in The House of Guinness, but it is the most serious.

Eddie makes a set piece of showing Fenian firebrand Ellen how to pour the stout out of a bottle in the Stephen Knight Netflix series.

Using the whole theatre of the moment in a posh Dublin hotel.

Tilting in wrong direction

Every cloud: She’s gone early

To point out that patience is essential for the perfect Guinness.

And that the same ought to be applied to the fight for an Irish republic.

Only that he has the tilt all wrong and that the head is too thin.

Now, as with all matters, we always go the experts.

And in the absence of my Donegal hotelier grandpa or my four Irish publican uncles. I’ll settle on the next big thing.

The Guinness Storehouse at St James’s Gate in The Liberties, Dublin who advise.

The initial pour

Settling down: Just how it should be

Hold your glass at a 45-degree angle and aim the tap nozzle for the gold harp logo.

Pour until you reach the top of the harp, then stop.

Let it settle

Accessorise: With your own image

Set the Guinness down and let it rest, which is called the ‘surge and settle’ phase.

The darker stout slowly sinks under the creamy, white foam.

Top off the pint

What goes up: Gravity Bar

Settle your drink for about a minute beforeyou fill up the rest of the glass.

With the glass straight, fill until the foam forms a dome for the perfect Guinness head.

And all of which I learned first hand for myself in a little corner of Ireland.

They call Las Vegas and Rí Rá Irish Pub at The Shoppes at Mandalay Place.

America, Countries, Ireland, Sport

Steel yourself for Irish Gridiron spice bags

And as American Footballers take over Dublin this weekend steel yourself for Irish Gridiron spice bags.

Taking two of the cultural culinary staples of Pittsburgh and the Irish capital.

To create the Steel Bag,

Sponsors Aer Lingus are blending the homegrown take-away treat of a Spice Bag with Pittsburgh favourites like melted cheese and meats.

Which, of course, we know is a variation on a Philly Cheesesteak, but whisper that around Steel City.

While anyone who has been brought up, or reared their kids in Ireland, will be familiar with the smells of a Spice Bag from a weekend out.

Bag it up

Irish staple: The spice bag

Your bag is a mix of deep-fried salt and chilli chips, salt and shredded chilli chicken or wings, red and green and chili peppers, fried onions and a variety of spices.

That we’ve honed in on Pittsburgh rather than opponents Minnesota Vikings is no sleight.

On those brave men of the Mid West.

But rather because the Pennsylvanians have long had stronger links with Ireland,.

Particularly the Steelers owners, the Rooney family, whose rich Irish heritage dates back to the 1840s.

Striking Vikings: Minnesota

With the team’s fanbase, Steeler Nation, having also travelled across the Atlantic in huge numbers to see their team play on Irish soil.

Now gridiron fans who were around Earlsfort Terrace yesterday would doubtless have done a double take.

To see Steelers legend Brett Keisel rolling up his sleeves, serving the fusion feast.

Tailgate party on

Say cheese: Cheesesteaks and Arnold Palmers

And who knows the new dish might take on and the Steeler Nation might bring it back with them to adopt at their Tailgate parties?

Now, no quarter has been given in turning Dublin and the Aviva into an American Football outpost for the weekend.

With a Steelers Fan Tailgate set up at Merrion Square, presented by Aer Lingus.

With football themed fun for all the family.

Man of Steel: Pittsburgh’s ‘secret weapon’?

And fans can learn more about all the Steelers’ Black & Gold activities taking place in Ireland on the footie team’s website and the Vikings can be found on their site too.

Six-time Super Bowl Steelers entered a four-year partnership with Aer Lingus this year.

Establishing the airline as the Official Airline of Steelers Ireland and a Founding Partner of Steelers Ireland.

Deal us in

Aer we go: Aer Lingus and Pittsburgh Steelers

And Aer Lingus offers convenient travel options for fans from the US making their way to Dublin for the game.

With the airline flying 21 direct routes from North America to Ireland in 2025.

For next year, Aer Lingus will fly two new transatlantic routes from Dublin to Cancún, Mexico, and Raleigh-Durham in the US.

We found return flights with the national airline carrier through Dublin with pre-clearance from €815.65 for sample dates in October.

 

Countries, Ireland

Standing in the middle of the pool

They do things differently in Ireland so don’t be surprised to get blocked by oul biddies standing in the middle of the pool.

The Grand Hotel where said oul biddies congregate is an institution in the coastal town of Malahide, nine miles north of Dublin.

An old favourite of ours, it is getting a makeover when we revisit, in need of their legendary Sunday carvery.

Only to find that the new American owners have packed it away in favour of fine dining in the restaurant.

Which means we hold our family reunion in the bar.

Though to be fair their seafood is of the supersized variety and is so fresh it could be aroused if you only wagged its tail.

A stroke of luck

Statues: The Arena Health club

We arouse ourselves too after a night of reminiscing, for a reviving swim in the hotel’s Arena health club, across the pathway.

Where Fionnuala and Bridgid obviously like to meet for their catch-up, bang in the middle of one of the swimming lanes.

Standing up and wagging their tails as they bellyache.

And blocking this breastroker’s passage to the other end.

Not that they’re in any way acting differently to those who actually swim.

As I’m given out to for catching one of them with my back-kick.

Bullish in the Irish Sea

Sea us: North Dublin Swim Club

Better then if you have the whole sea to swim in as the North Dublin Swim club enjoy.

Off Bull Island, an idyllic 5-mile stretch off Clontarf, and a magnet for golfers, twitchers and dog walkers.

As well as sea swimmers, who pump up the volume and their boom box.

And brave the chilly, but reviving waters, all against the background of the Doonbeg Chimneys.

Out There

Me and the birds: In the Happy Out keep

All power to them as I was rarely brave enough in our 13 years in Ireland to test the waters.

Jumping in as quickly as I entered the iconic Forty Foot Dublin Bay bathing area in Dún Laoghaire, cited in James Joyce’s Ulysses.

Pride of place in the queue at the one shed/cafe on Bull island Happy Out should, of course, go to the plucky swimmers,

Only they are still drying off when we arrive.

Happy Out is friendly, attentive, our Scrambled Egg with bacon pots take the good part of 25 minutes.

Feathered friends

And our new chum in the hide that now constitutes the indoor eating area helps himself to some of that.

But we can’t be churlish, this is Stanny Starling and his feathered friends’ island and we are only visitors.

It is too Fionnuala and Brigid’s land so they are entitled to stand around in the middle of the pool if they please.

Feeding time: For Stanny

Because I am still, despite my 13 years in Ireland and Irish ancestry a blow-in.

Although if I do follow Daughterie’s lead and get myself an Irish passport as is my due I will get a full say.

And then you’ll have something to worry about.

A night’s classic twin room for two at the Grand is from €155 per night.

 

 

 

 

Countries, Ireland

Thinking outside the telephone box

It has always been a sign that they do things differently in Ireland to Britain and they’re still thinking outside the telephone box.

A retro young Seventies woman occupies the green Telefón box opposite our Parkview Hotel in Newtownmountkennedy in Co. Wicklow.

Where once she would be scrambling for her pennies to put into the slot to make her call (ask your parents).

She is now a mannequin curio.

Nor would she look out of place in the time capsule that is Johnnie Fox’s in Glencullen just up the road.

And billed as the highest pub in Ireland and where we sup Guinnesses and house stout, with pilots and new pals, local and afar.

Step back in time

Old Woman: And mine at their grand estate front

We are on a whistlestop three-nighter back in my Dear Old Mum’s Irish heartland.

Retracing our own steps from 13 years living in Greystones and working in rugby central Ballsbridge in Dublin 4.

And will mark her today in what would have been her 97th birthday.

Although, of course, she walks with us every day.

And danced with us, Teasy’s Baby, and Daddy’s Daughterie last night.

As the house singer belted out Van Morrison’s Brown-Eyed Girl.

And we worked off our bangers and mash and Murphy’s stout.

The Garden of Ireland

Scottish style: Back In East Lothian

Today, we breakfast at the gardens which give this bordering county to Dublin its reputation.

And old friends, the Slazengers, at their grand estate and exclusive hotel, shopping Mecca and wedding venue.

In Powerscourt, near Bray.

Before taking over the Grand Hotel, Malahide in northern Co. Dublin.

Home from home for my parents on family get-together.

With my mum’s doppelgänger sister, Nance, matriarch of the McNultys and the greater brood.

Malahide and Mums

We will eat, drink, be merry and the craic will pass 90.

And we will toast the Teasy on her birthday, loud enough for them all to hear it up above, or down below.

Where they’ll either be jigging with St Peter or laying down the best beats with Beelzebub.

For best rates at the Parkview and the Grand Hotel Malahide and attractions mentioned here visit their sites.

And, of course, Ireland is served by Aer Lingus. Ryanair, all major airlines and ferries.

 

 

Countries, Ireland, UK

Only barbers where you can get a short, track and sides

It’s why Fermanagh is a cut above the rest, it’s because it’s the only barbers where you can get a short, track and sides.

Headhunters Barber Shop & Railway Museum does exactly what it says on the hair cream, or gel, tin.

By giving its customers a railway enthusiasts experience on top.

Which clearly gave Gordon and Nigel Johnston’s business the edge.

In the public vote for the inaugural Love Your High Street Award 2025.

Now while it’s common for holidaymakers to get in a hairdo before they go away on holiday.

Even better to visit the hairdressers when you’re abroad and become part of the ritual and furniture of a foreign barbers.

Turkish trims

Hair we go: A proper Turkish cut and shave

And where better to get crimped than a Turkish barbers?

Back in pre-beardie days and on a family vacation in Bodrum I went full local and went for a Turkish cut and shave.

While The Scary One and Daughterie enjoyed the hamam.

And, of course, after getting all foamed up (the barbers, not the hamam) and getting my ear and nose hair singed off with a flame I was all in.

My cuppa tea: Istanbul

So that I sought out my nearest Turkish barber as soon as it was time again back home in Edinburgh

While I was also keen to try out the Moroccan version when I alighted on Marrakech.

Only to discover that all Turkish barbers aren’t like my Bodrum buddy or my stylist and confidante here in my current billet of North Berwick

Moroccan close shave

Moroccan scare: Marrakech

When the ‘guide’ who had pressured me in Jemaa el-Fna square to follow him (schoolboy error, be warned).

And said that he knew a Turkish barber.

Of course, when the lira dropped and I realised him and the barber who was charging an extortionate price were in on a scam it was almost too late.

And the false guide pinned me down on the chair in the barbers in the mall and told me to pay up.

Not even running out and snaking around the shops got me away and a fast run back to said square and safety through a tropical storm followed.

A Moroccan close shave all right.

Caribbean coiffeurs

The future is orange: A Tobago touch

Better then to stick to the safe side of the tracks.

And there are few more casual parts of the Caribbean than Tobago.

Where the islanders will tell you that everything is ‘just around the corner’ including the airport.

And where the West Indian barber is a central part of the community and knows everybody and everything.

As anyone who grew up watching Caribbean-British sitcom Desmond’s will tell you.

We expect that in another equally loquacious and sociable island, Ireland, that the hairdressing experience is just the same.

And we know the only barbers where you can get a short, track and sides.

Which you can tell everybody about when you get back off your holiday to the north of the country.

 

 

 

Countries, Ireland, UK

Van up on Cyprus Avenue in Belfast at 80

He’s been a grumpy old man all his life but today we celebrate Van up on Cyprus Avenue in Belfast at 80.

Few singers form the soundtrack of their city more than Ivan Morrison has for 60 years.

Perhaps The Beatles and Liverpool, The Proclaimers and Edinburgh or Simon and Garfunkel and New York.

As the BBC does on such occasions, it dug into its archives.

For a special concert from the Belfast boy for his 70th birthday in the street where he grew up.

Europa Birthday Van

It is a rare privilege to share a birthday with a superstar singer in concert.

But that was afforded we few, we lucky few, who were treated to cabaret dinner at the iconic Europa Hotel.

When Van exercised his jazz chops with Joey Defrancesco, as well as his Celtic Soul trademark.

As with everything with Van the Man there is always a mystery wrapped up in a riddle with his songs and his life.

Cyprus Avenue, of course, is more, much more, than just a street.

It’s a symbolic sliding doors moment in Van’s life as he sits in a car in his home town, planning his next move.

Which Belfastians, never short of a word, will be happy to explain to you on your Van Morrison tour of East Belfast.

In a Heartbeat

Spell it out: Van cabaret

All courtesy of Irish Heartbeat Tours’ Van Morrison Walking Tour.

And follow in the footsteps of the Great Man in his childhood home on Hyndford Street.

The Hollow, made famous in Brown Eyed Girl. and, of course, Cyprus Avenue.

For its size of half a million people the great old port on the Lagan boasts world beaters in the world of the arts and entertainment.

Tours de force

Shady laddie: Van the Man

And Irish Heartbeat Tour have you covered with a George Best House Tour and CS Lewis Garden Tour and Square Garden Tours.

Of course, you can go on your own 3.5km self-guided Van tour.

By visiting EastSide Visitor Centre.

Or by downloading the Van Morrison Trail Interactive Map to receive a map and access QR codes at various locations

Now we can’t guarantee that you’ll find Van up on Cyprus Avenue in Belfast at 80, although he does live back in now in Northern Ireland.

But we all of us whether we’ve been to Van’s town or not feel we know it from his Astral Weeks masterpiece.