Countries, Ireland, UK

Where to be on the shortest day of the year

They’re the scene-grabbers, the whoopers of Stonehenge, but here’s where to be on the shortest day of the year, Avebury.

Avebury in Herself’s homeland of the south-west of England is thousands of years older than Stonehenge and more extensive.

A two-hour drive west of London and 40 miles north of Stonehenge it is also quieter and more accessible.

Yes, it has its share of crystal-loving, tree-hugging, lentil-loving Earth children.

But there’s more than enough space in the Wiltshire henge to get up close, personal, and touch your own stone.

Pagan worship

Stone circle games: Avebury

Avebury benefits too from its henge being part of a living, breathing village.

With, of course, kerching shops proliferating and the chance to stock up on New Age trinkets.

Including phallic ornaments and fertility symbols which they were big into in pagan days.

And well into the middle of the last century.

Before Alexander Keiller, heir to the Keiller marmalade empire, bought the site.

And cleared away buildings and re-erected many stones in the late 1930s.

Stone circle of life

Back in the day: What it might have been

Now for those who speculate about our neolithic forebears will tell you it must have taken hundreds of hours to erect the site.

Built between 2850 BC and 2200 BC it is the most complex and biggest of Britain’s surviving henge monuments.

Think theatres for rites and ceremonies and you’re probably near the mark.

With, of course, the cycles of the moon and sun playing into where and how the stones are lined up.

All of which as a daughter of this soil Herself enjoyed growing up.

And was in a position to share with us a young family when the Solar Eclipse came along.

In great shape

Let it snow: Winter in Avebury

Now stone circles being a hobby horse of hers we’ve been dragged out on many a day out.

Trudging over fields across Britain and Ireland to find them.

Village people: In the distance

All of which puts us in good shape to pounce when the moment comes.

And to share with our friends where to be on the shortest day of the year.

Countries, Food & Wine, Ireland, UK

Guinness’s black and whiter Christmas genius

With a rush on our favourite stout we take our hats off to Guinness’s black and whiter Christmas genius.

No beer, arguably, has been better marketed and Diageo’s decision to limit the amount of Guinness pubs falls into the same bracket.

Because there are few bigger drivers than the threat that you’ll be denied your pleasure than getting you to buy it.

Not that that has ever stopped the good people of Ireland.

Where the Guinness flows as freely as the Liffey which holds its secrets.

Guinness running through me

Golden Gates: Well, black and white actually

The rise in Guinness’s popularity is reputedly driven by women and young people.

Neither of which I am the last time I checked although it’s already in my DNA and blood.

With the Guinness marketeers telling Irish Mammies to give their new-borns Guinness for their health.

An old wife’s tale… well, no, there has always, of course, been a mystery.

A family business

Best rellies bar none: The New York crew

Down to what makes a good Guinness and if it’s possible to find one outside Ireland.

And here it helps to have some insider knowledge.

With Guinness running through our family and the McNulty bar, now The Ramblers, in the townland of Brockagh, Co. Donegal.

The best McNulty Irish bars in Manhattan, Queen’s and Long Island.

And the institution that was Kennedy’s and is now The Workshop, by Tara Street DART station on the Liffey.

Pouring in

Give it a tilt: How to pour a pint

Now what we will share here is that keeping the stout flowing and regularly change the barrels optimises your taste.

Which is why the Guinness in busy bars will always taste better than quieter hotel bars.

Of course, today’s clientele can pour their own with those taps on tables we have now.

Which, of course, I am a practitioner, not least to my bar-owning cousins.

And the document bequeathed to me in Neon City by Las Vegas Ri Ra.

The home of the Black Stuff

Now as familiar to us as a table full of Guinness at this time of year is their adverts.

With the black St James’s Gates in the Liberties in Dublin with snow on top and the tag…

‘Even at the home of the Black Stuff they dream of a white one.’

Which, of course you can visit for yourself and drink in the Gravity Bar above the Dublin skylines.

As American Presidents, British Royalty and VIPs like yours truly have over the years.

And all of us can despite any seasonal pub panic around your favourite stout.

So well done again to the best marketeers in the business.

Guinness’s black and whiter Christmas genius.

 

 

Countries, Ireland

Embrace the Hell of Christmas in Wicklow

If you’re at end of your wick then here’s a solution… embrace the Hell of Christmas in Wicklow.

It’s in the Irish DNA, of course, to come at things from a different angle.

And so it is in our old haunting ground of Kilruddery House in Bray, Co. Wicklow, south of Dublin.

Where the estate is offering frazzled Christmas shoppers the Gift of Grit and Glory: Hell and Back.

Something bound to appeal to fans of I’m A Celebrity who fancy themselves the equal of any Bushtucker Trial.

Thrill seekers everywhere 

Slide rule: And push on through

This March, dare your family members to brave H&B Winter Warrior 2025.

Boasting frosty obstacles like Heartbreak Ridge, Valley of Pain and Satan’s Pit.

Participants can choose from a 21km Half Marathon, a 14km Double Lap or the 7km Social Lap.

But the fun doesn’t stop there.

Child’s Play

Drive you up the wall: But the kids will tackle it

H&B Junior Forest Frenzy for 8-12s takes place on Saturday, May 17.

Which are, of course, ideal for sports clubs, scout groups and school friends.

Hell and back

Making a splash: All part of the challenge

HELL & BACK 2025 EVENTS

  • 1st March 2025 – H&B Winter Warrior
    7KM / 14KM / 21KM – Ages 16+ (Accompanied by an adult)
  • 17th May 2025 – H&B Junior Forest Frenzy
    5KM – Exclusively for kids aged 8–12
    (More Junior dates to be announced!)
  • 7th June 2025 – H&B Adult, Teen & Family Events
  • Adult: 13KM / 8KM – Ages 16+
  • Family: 8KM – Ages 10+ with an adult
  • Teen: 8KM – Ages 12+
Countries, Deals, Europe, Ireland

In remembrance of the Irish Fallen

And because our family commemorates our Donegal forebears today we stand in remembrance of the Irish Fallen.

And acknowledge Great Uncle Patrick and Great Uncle William’s sacrifice at Ieper.

That we observe the British day of Remembrance on the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month is an acknowledgment.

Of the world clock then when the guns fell silent.

What came afterwards in Ireland we all know now but did not then.

A United front

Irish memorial: GTI Battlefields Tour

But recruits either Southern Catholics fighting for Catholic Belgium or Northern Protestants fighting against Catholic Austria battled and died by each others’ side.

The tales of which I discovered for myself along with my Great-Uncle’s gravestone in Flanders.

On a GTI Travel WWI, Flanders and The Somme trip where I laid a wreath at the Menin Gate in Ieper.

An Irish solution

As a country, the Republic has marked their day of remembrance since 1986.

On the Sunday nearest 11 July at the Royal Hospital Kilmainham, Dublin.

The anniversary of the date in 1921 that a truce was signed ending the Irish War of Independence.

Ireland’s progression through that conflict, its civil war, out of Empire.

And through The Troubles and the Good Friday Agreement has arrived at that date and this point.

And its relationship or non-relationship with the poppy.

Lest we forget

Branching out: Where once was no-man’s land

It has come to signify for Irish nationalists and patriots British rule in Ireland.

And Remembrance Sunday’s dedication to all those British and Commonwealth victims of wars shines a light.

On its army’s residency in Northern Ireland during The Troubles.

And particularly the Paras’ part in Bloody Sunday in Derry.

Commemorations of the November Remembrance Sunday today concentrate on the Six Counties of unionist Northern Ireland.

Family reunion: My Great-Uncle

For those wishing to mark the memories of the 35,000 Irishmen who fell during World War in the south.

Then an ecumenical service was held in St Patrick’s Cathedral today, which has been attended by the President every year since 1993.

And where a prayer was said for all 35,000 Irishmen who died in WWI, my great-uncles among them, in remembrance of the Irish Fallen

 

 

Countries, Ireland

Halloween through the years… and a Derry scare

And for the day that’s in it we’re conjuring up the spirits of the past and celebrating Halloween through the years… and a Derry scare.

When Halloween first exploded in this island of Britain to the frightfest it is now is moot but I probably gave it serious attention around the titular movie.

When big reveal my take away from an underage teen cinema goer was Jamie Lee Curtis’s big reveal.

Every witch way you can: Our little monsters

Back in the Seventies in scary suburban Glasgow in the north of this island nobody came to our doors guising.

And the only nod to All Souls’ Eve was for some reason dunking for apples out of a bowl of water.

It’s been our fortune/misfortune since to meet the day head on as parents when we moved to the home of Halloween, Ireland.

And our little horrors embraced the ghoulish garments and dress-ups.

Daddy’s Little Ghoul

Child’s play: Laurie childhood days

Nor has it left them as they’ve become big monsters with Daddy’s Little Ghoul across in Derry to haunt the locals.

As if the good citizens of that country haven’t suffered enough.

Modern Derry has dragged itself up through the days of the Troubles launching its Derry Halloween Festival in 1986.

With visitors now more likely to seek out the Derry Girls mural for a selfie, take in the culinary, cultural and musical heritage.

Head north and to Co. Donegal for the dunes, beaches and West Atlantic Way trekking.

Samhain got me started

Street life: Screaming with laughter in Derry

Now for those who didn’t have the advantage of being brought up in an Irish household and had never heard of Samhain, then it is actually the pagan festival.

From which Halloween emerged and transported to America which they then repackaged and sent back to us.

There has though been a media blitz of Samhain on British screens with Tourism Ireland promoting Ireland as the Home of Halloween in TV adverts.

Brewing up some frights

All white on the night: And spooky visitors

And celebrity chef Donal Skehan flagging up the Walled City to This Morning audiences.

Donal travels along the ‘Awakening the Walled City Trail’, bringing to life the rich folklore, history, and heritage of the city’s Halloween celebrations.

The segment includes spooky stories with Charlene McCrossan from McCrossan Walking Tours.

An interview with Jacqueline Whoriskey, the Festival and Events Manager with Derry City and Strabane District Council.

And a special appearance from the city’s very own Winifred the Witch!

Me and my ghoul: With my Scary One

Of course Ireland boasts a frighteningly good ghostie and banshee background with festivals like Macnas, Púca, Bram Stoker and more.

Alice Mansergh, Chief Executive of Tourism Ireland, said: Tourism Ireland was delighted to work with Donal Skehan, bringing the magic of Derry Halloween to hundreds of thousands of GB viewers on ITV’s This Morning.

“Halloween is one of the world’s favourite festivals but not everyone knows that it originated on these shores around 2,000 years ago.”

So that’s Halloween through the years… and a Derry scare. 

And we fear for those who come across Daddy’s Little Ghoul among the tens of thousands in the grand old city.

EasyJet flies from British airports to Derry with a sample return flight from £64.98.

Countries, Ireland

Ireland’s Best in show

You could hear the Crufts dogs from the Earl’s Court tube station before you saw them, so I’ll know what to expect at Ireland’s Best in show.

Every boy pesters his dad for a puppy which he can call his best friend.

But a dalliance with the Shovlins’ Welsh corgi on holiday in Portnoo, Co. Donegal, was the closest I got to a pet.

Up and at ‘em: Dogs love the Expo

Furry friends have come and gone since I set up home with ‘my own little pussycat’ 34 years ago.

The big time: And an Expo heavyweight

Mostly neighbours’ moggies as few could compare with our ‘first-born’ Celtic.

With my little cubs taking to one particular ball of fur, Mr Bojangles, growing up in Ireland.

Expo Factor

Grey day: My ‘own little pussycat’ with her Mum’s kitty Meeshka

Whether long, short-haired, bald, bold or timid every animal deserves to be petted.

And the message at Ireland’s Pet Expo, sponsored by Agria Petinsure, on October 19 and 20, at the National Show Centre, Swords, is to rescue an animal.

And point to the 2,800 dogs dreaming of a new home in rescue centres in Ireland.

With Pet Expo offering a Rescue Dog of the Year Competition.

Poochie coochie coo

Dan’s the man: With Handsome Dan in Yale, New Haven, Connecticut

Of course, every pet expo has at its showcase a Best in Show category which Swords bills as its Pet Expo’s Perfect Pooch category.

Now there is no one breed better than another and you cam celebrate the rich variety of our four-legged friends.

At the Dog Breed Village with over 50 breeds on display.

Now we all love our lap dogs (and you can count human husbands among that number) and cats.

And among the titbits Pet Expo shares about our animals is that cats (and that’ll include sleepover Rufus) is that they’re actually purring because they’re hungry.

The Great Outdoors

Great outdoors: Not just cats and dogs

But we also like to get outdoors with them in their natural environment.

And Pet Expo is celebrating our outdoors animals and a photoshoot with Ace the Unicorn pony.

And alpacas and their experts on show.

This being Ireland there are also obviously sheepdog demonstrations.

Now as it should be kids and animals go free at Pet Expo.

While a value €18 for grown-ups with discounts for students and OAPs is worth shouting about.

Now every pet owner rightfully thinks theirs is unparalleled.

But we can all agree that Ireland’s Best in show is next week at the National Show Centre, Swords, north of Dublin.

 

 

Countries, Ireland, UK

Ship-shape but how to prolong your Belfast stay?

And they’ve left, the 125 cruise passengers on an extended 40-day stay in Northern Ireland… ship-shape but how to prolong your Belfast stay?

The windows of the world have been on the passengers on the Villa Vie Odyssey these past two months

As they enjoyed an unscheduled stay on the Foyle.

Or a marketing tool for our friends at Visit Belfast as the perfect PR gift.

Room with a view: The Villa Vie bedrooms

To show the rest of us (and Belfastophiles like ourselves are already converts) how to spend 40 days here.

There was more than enough in our hosts’ presentation on their visit to the sumptuous The Dome in George Street, Edinburgh.

To keep us entertained for a couple of months.

Clear blue waters: The big ship

As it goes I’m just back from Belfast where I’d made my way to the docks.

Where a ship even more renowned than the Villa Vie Odyssey is celebrated.

You know the cruise ship which sails around the world over 1301 days and 425 destinations. 

Quarter Masters

Shimmering: The Titanic Quarter

The Titanic Quarter has transformed the Belfast tourist landscape.

With 3.6 million taking it in annually and 20,000 living, working, visiting and staying daily.

Standing at the boards on the slipway where Titanic was built it is truly an assault on the senses.

For all its scale we are reminded that the Villa Vie Odyssey and today’s cruise ships would dwarf the Titanic.

But in its appeal none will ever match the Titanic.

Which is why, of course, Belfast’s house guests became familiar visitors with the Titanic Quarter over their 40 days in town.

Now, while the Quarter is on the Villa Vie shipmates’ doorstep the rest of us access it along the Maritime Mile from the city.

Follow the Seahorse

Shipmaster: In the Titanic Hotel

The first thing that strikes visitors to Belfast city is its intimacy and that you double back on yourself.

We remember inside knowledge from past visits to use the Grand Central Hotel’s Seahorse on the side of the building as our compass.

It keeps even this accidental tourist straight and confident to explore further.

To the Cathedral Quarter, the Ulster Museum  with its Game of Thrones tapestry when we visited.

The weavers at the Ulster Folk Museum and the Sandy Row we associate with Van Morrison.

For those who want to delve further into the city’s history and more recent the Glider bus is an easy way of getting around the city.

Black Taxi tips

Taxi for Billy? The Black Taxi Tour

The Belfast black taxis, of course, differ from those that proliferate in London.

The native and knowledgeable Belfastian drivers with their famous gallows wit take tourists around both sides of the divide.

From the 28 years of The Troubles.

And visit the imposing statue of Edward Carson, the defender of Ulster, at the expansive seat of government at Stormont.

A day in the life of a Belfastian

Put your hat on it: Van Morrison at the Europa

Today, Belfastians go about their lives unhurried and untroubled.

Starting their day with a ‘wee’ (huge) Ulster Fry breakfast.

And while it’s not obligatory to stop for lunch at the Italianate architecture Crown Liquor Saloon with the best Guinness in Belfast.

It is recommended to tarry a while in one of its booth snugs and get late back from lunch.

And maybe grab a cocktail at the Europa Hotel opposite on your way home from work and if you’re lucky enough and Van is doing one of his jazz cabaret acts then take that in.

Belfast, in truth, throbs to the sounds of traditional music, it is slated to hold the Fleadh next year.

Samhain folk

Crowning glory: Game of Thrones and Belfast

It was, of course, at the vanguard of many other genres over the years from its punk days to today’s multi-cultural sounds.

The city is readying itself now for the Irish festival Samhain, which the rest of the world sabotaged and calls Halloween.

It is safe to say that should you be lucky enough to be delayed for 40 days in Belfast then you will never run out of things to do.

And the locals will make you more than welcome.

So there will be no need to ask: Ship-shape but how to prolong your Belfast stay?

 

 

 

Countries, Cruising, Ireland, Ships, UK

Stena’s Holyhead family hub is a racing cert

It wasn’t always like this, for Fiftysomethings it was toy cars on the deck, but for today’s kids Stena’s Holyhead family hub is a racing cert.

It is safe to say that Seventies chidren, or maybe just this lad, got to know the deck of the ferry pretty well.

On those schoolday Easter trips from Stranraer to Larne with my Dear Old Mum, on our way to her Co. Donegal homestead.

And always on my eyes ducking passengers’ feet.

The Irish Sea diaspora

The right buttons to press: A road test

For those of the Irish Sea diaspora, and with air prices sky high, the car ferry was always the vessel of choice.

With the good people of Donegal and the north of Ireland always decamping to Scotland on account of its proximity.

And those from Dublin and the south relocating to England through the port of Holyhead on Anglesey.

Sail on: With Stena

The ferries became a window into the world of the Irish Diaspora on the move.

Men exchanging the craic in a swirl of smoke and booze in the bar.

And the women trying to keep their kids under control as their kids whizzed their newly procured toy cars through’ folks’ legs.

Bells and whistles

A world of possibilities: The hub

Times have, of course, changed.

And no tech-savvy kid would put up with a toy car for entertainment on a ferry.

And Stena has too with its bells and whistles family hub to keep Mum, Dad and Junior happy… and outta the way.

With an interactive wall, digital floor projections and a cutting-edge gaming corner, Stena Line.

And there’s space too on the top-of-the-range Estrid which I’ve road tested and so has their team of kid testers.

Estrid’s family hub boast a seating capacity for 115.

And Stena offers a 2.2 family and car return from Dublin to Holyhead on board the top-of-the-range Estrid from £353

Countries, Halloween, Ireland

The Banshees of Irish-own

With apologies to Colin Farrell and Brendan Gleeson but every Irish family has one, they’re the Banshees of Irish-own.

My Dear Old Mum’s family, the McNulty/McGlincheys were the pre-eminent clan of their townland Brockagh of their time, the early 20th century.

And so when matters of import for the dynasty occurred the community heard about it.

And when one of the 15 (yes, f-i-f-t-e-e-n) children fell in The Great War the banshee was the first to alert the McNulty Matriarch.

Even before the Man from the War Office arrived with the commemorative pot and the document confirming one of her sons had died in Flanders.

The spirit of Ireland

He’s behind you: Ghostly happenings

Their spirit still blows through the Co. Donegal hamlet.

And you might feel their presence all the more at this time of year as the ghosties gather for Halloween.

Which is, as we all know, is a Celtic feast the Irish exported to the New World and which we imported back from Hallmark.

Now, we’re contractually obliged to say that other banshees are available.

Farrell’s phantom

Ghoul force: Gleeson and Farrell

And if you want to follow in the phantom steps of the Banshees of Inisherin from the film.

Then the good people of Achill in Co. Mayo in the west of Ireland are happy to oblige with the Banshees of Inisherin trail.

Spooky: Keem Bay on the Inisherin Trail

Now our old pals at Tourism Ireland have access to everyone and anyone to help promote their island.

And here are some of the banshees they recommend you seek out when you visit.

The scary mother-in-law

Duckett, she’s back: Spectre in the air

The Banshee of Duckett’s Grove, Co. Carlow: And, of course, what would Halloween be without a mother-in-law?

Not strictly a mother-in-law here… more the vengeful ma of the plaything of the lord of the manor who died under a horse.

Ma has had the last word though returning to haunt William Duckett ever since.

Clare-raising tales

Castle bawls: Bunratty

The Bunratty Banshee, Co. Clare: Bunratty has seen it all in the 770 years that a castle has stood in these grounds.

Our favourite tale surrounds a guest of the O’Brien clan who awoke in the night to the sound of a woman wailing.

Out of her window, a pale, red-headed girl floating outside.

The next day, a member of the O’Brien family was found dead.

Not, of course, to put you off visiting the Castle and Folk Park… although maybe not look out of the window.

O’Neill in the coffin

Ruin of you: Shane’s Castle

The Banshees of Shane’s Castle, Co. Antrim: Now those who know their history will know of the Flight of the Earls, well this is the Flight of the Ghouls.

In the early 1800s, Earl O’Neill’s Lough Neagh house party ended in tragedy when he requisitioned the room set aside for the banshee.

Only for her to set it on fire in anger with guests noticing her floating above the flames.

All of which spooky spectres will make you want to keep your wits about you when you visit.

Because the Banshees of Irish-own are always hovering.

America, Countries, Europe, Ireland, UK

A wee daughter of Donegal picking up the birthday bill

There’s a banquet today at the Lord’s table with a wee daughter of Donegal picking up the birthday bill.

And woe betide anyone, God included, who gets in her way.

Of course, for Donegal, read Dublin, Glasgow or Galway, Newtowmountkennedy or New York.

Or anywhere my Dear Old Mum, who will be surely celebrating her 96th birthday today in heaven, wined and dined us.

Handbags at Dawn

In any language: Over who pays

Anyone who has spent any time with the Irish of that golden generation will recognise the women who pay the bill.

Or seen the advert on Irish television where two women discuss who will fork up for the fare.

Ending, of course, in them battering each other over the head with handbags.

It has been my great fortune to have been able to break bread with the force of nature that was Teasy for nearly six decades.

And never once did she let me, or anyone else, pay.

Teasy’s table

Prize gal: At the National Piping Centre in Glasgow

Not on any of the big occasions, my 50th birthday, at the Hydro in Peebles in the Scottish Borders.

Nor any of the times when we were living in Co. Wicklow and would meet relatives in the Grand Hotel, Malahide, north of Dublin… 

Nor in her homestead of Donegal in the north-west of Ireland.

Cocktail hour: With Mum in Co. Wicklow

And we had one of our many mini-fall-outs when we attended my NYFD cousin’s wedding in New York.

And she forced money into my hand to pay for everyone and then apologised to said cousin when they paid our way.

Our shout

On a pedestal: Me and Mum at the Chooky Welly statue

While on the one occasion I was able to treat her, in her adopted city of Glasgow, she couldn’t help herself either.

And when the good people of the Glasgow Tourist board asked for the bill at the end of our meals, her purse would come out.

A lot of head scratching followed before the next lunch or meal and the same scenario played out again… and as for the cost of the hotel.

Teasy’s wide-eyed appetite for life could only be seen to be believed and she wondered in awe that anybody would pay my way to write about their wares.

Of course, Teasy, had the final word at our last supper before we returned her to the Donegal sod  last week.

A wee daughter of Donegal picking up the birthday bill still.