Countries, Europe, Food

A tale of deux sittings London and Paris

It’s the best of times… well, you know the rest, it’s a tale of deux sittings London and Paris.

But what Le Dickens, the French will be choking on their consomme as les rosbifs have only pipped them in a poll of top European foodie cities.

Dutch lifestyle magazine Dailybase analysed Tripadvisor data to uncover the number of 5-star reviews for eateries in 193 European cities.

And the Big Smoke came out on top with 2,906 5-star reviews for restaurants, cafes, bars and pubs.

Paris has 2,898, ahead of Barcelona 1,475, Rome 1,407 and Athens 1,403.

London calling

Towering: London landmark

Dailybase flags up London’s traditional pub culture where you’ll find homemade pies and roast dinners.

As well as a host of Michelin Star restaurants to tantalise your tastebuds, making it the perfect destination for your next city break.

And I still get drawn back to Punch and Judy in Covent Garden where we got my post-university American odyssey underway with a long-gone pal.

Seine choice

Ooh, la, la: Paris memories

Foodies are obviously drawn to French pavement cafes and to their specialities in Paris.

Such as escargot and entrecôte, a premium cut of steak to relish with chips in top-rated French bistros.

Although maybe stay away from the expensive Left Bank.

Ramblas rambler

Told you: Barcelona institution

Barcelona boasts terrific tapas, and those moreish patatas bravas, cubes of potato in a spicy tomato sauce.

And as well as the classic rice dish, paella. 

And a shout-out here to My Fucking Restaurant, an Aussie high-end eaterie on Las Ramblas. 

Eternal sitting

Drink with the gods: In Rome

Rome ranks fourth, with 1,407 reviews awarding the Italian capital city 5-stars for its food and drink joints.

Dailybase recommends traditional pasta carbonara and cacio e pepe, two simple yet flavourful spaghetti dishes.

While we’ve got our own fave trattoria by the Pantheon.

Greece is the word

Tree-mendous: Greece

Just behind in fifth is Athens where you have to dig into the savoury souvlaki.

Which are skewers of flavourful meat grilled over an open fire, alongside the minced lamb dish moussaka.

We’ll pass over the Athens bistro where we got stuck in a lift for half an hour and had to get hoiked out by firemen.

And instead point you in the direction of the Athens Riviera for the last word in veggie and salad.

So, really it’s more than a tale of deux sittings London and Paris.

Because central to a city’s delights is its food.

 

 

 

 

Europe, Food, Food & Wine

Anyone can be a pasta master

The Scary One would hardly trust me with an egg in the kitchen but let me tell you that celeb chef Catherine Fulvio proved her wrong and showed anyone can be a pasta master.

And so as we mark World Pasta Day tomorrow let me indulge you with my own culinary skills.

Catherine, of course, is celebrated across Ireland for her food, the secrets of which she is happy to pass on to foodie fans.

At her Ballyknocken House and Cookery School in my old stomping ground of Co. Wicklow.

Roll with it: At Ballyknocken

Where Catherine taught a number of fingers and thumbs wannabe chefs how to make pasta.

Now there’s one pasta dish with which we’re all familiar.

And was certainly the exotic dish of my youth was the famous Bolognese.

As well as being the first grown-up dish my Mum (and no Italian she but the best cook of them all) taught me.

Your Spag Bolidays

Are there seconds? Dig in

And that is why we’re pinpointing our pasta pals at Topflight and their Bologna & Adriatic Riviera package.

You’ll get a two-night stay in the famous old university city.

Before relaxing and unwinding for seven nights in the beach resort of Cattolica.

Bologna is known as La Grassa in Italy, meaning the fat one on account of its love of food.

And after all that Spag Bol and vino you’ll be wanting to flop.

Cattolica lurch

Cattolica worship: Emilia-Romagna

Located just 14km south of busy Rimini, Cattolica provides a sheltered beach that is popular.

With watersport lovers and sun worshippers alike.

While there is also a wonderful seafront promenade for a stroll.

Now we’ll pass over, or pasta over if you like, that Imola has the best claim for recipe for a ragù served with pasta.

And that students’ go-to dish might have entered our lives as Spaghetti Imolese.

Topflight of fancy

Well, everyday is an education, as we found.

Under Catherine Fulvio’s tutelage when she taught me to make own.

And others that anyone can be a pasta master.

Dish of the day: With Catherine

While Topflight and their excellent guides will teach you the rest about Il Bel Paese.

Topflight’s Bologna and Adriatic Riviera starts from €1,200pp.

 

Countries, Food, UK

Leeds feeds my soul

Four breakfasts and it’s not even noon yet… Leeds  feeds my soul.

They say, of course, that breakfast is the most important meal of the day.

But isn’t it always the case that we skip it and only really fill up when we’re away?

And so over these two days in Yorkshire’s jewel I’ve been making the most of The Queens Hotel buffet.

To kick me off for the days spent talking to exhibitors at Travel Connection Group’s Media Getaway

The big brekkie

Dish of the day: Shakshuka at Owt

It’s been one of the better breakfast spreads, no skin on scrambled eggs or fatty bacon.

And a refreshing alternative to OJ in rhubarb juice and not at all tart.

And a welcoming local greeting Ey-up when you arrive in the Basement breakfast room.

That playful dialect is in evidence again when we hit the bijou Owt eaterie in the Corn Exchange.

Grub crawl

Give us our daily… French bread

As part of our Leeds Food Tours brunch grub crawl.

Where Esther dishes out the tasting plates shakshuka which had a surprising and clearing pesto overlay…

OK, no foodie me, I nicked those tasting notes from a culinary expert in the party.

Now for someone who just slaps a bagel into the toaster for brekkie I’m making the most of this.

And turning this pit-stop into a two-course first meal of the day.

Enjoying Esther’s French bread with orange zest with strawberries and a jus… get me, real Hairy Bikers.

The new Empire

Play it again Sam: The Empire Cafe

Talking of which the two whiskered biker boys popped into our earlier establishment, the recently-opened The Empire Cafe.

Where we sampled the chick pea-infused desi breakfast, well when in Asian-inspired Leeds/Bradford.

Of course, owner Sam doesn’t forget the traditional food of his Geordie gran and we pack away the fired mini-bacon rolls.

Give chickpeas… a chance

Now Leeds is a melting pot of a Northern English city, fed by the peoples of the old British Empire who came to live and work here.

In with the brics

Others from others’ empires too with our last stop, a Tunisian local favourite Sweet Saeeda in the Kirkgate Market.

Where we are offered a chicken, tuna or veggie bric.

No chewing a bric gags please, this is a filo pastry with chicken, protein and egg.

And it is for the spicy, with the bric clearing out my blocked nose in double quick time.

Sweet spot: The bric

In a right old Flix

All of which set me up for my five-hour FlixBus journey back to Edinburgh.

That the bus blew a gasket and we were held up in Sunderland, roughly halfway, gave us the chance to sample a Tyneside/Wearside staple.

Belt up: It’s going to be a long journey

Greggs, all courtesy of the German coach company, as recompense for our delay.

I just wish I’d taken some of Sam’s bacon rolls with me in a doggie back because for sure Leeds feeds my soul.

Countries, Europe, Food

Hungry in Budapest

Hungry in Budapest… well you’d trust a Fat Boy, wouldn’t you?

Just like as they say never shop at a skinny butcher’s.

But this isn’t a cheap sizeist dig, that’s the mantle our food tour guide party goes under.

Mate mirth: Your host

And with our recent experience of a culture tour in Dusseldorf where the food part was overlooked we’re drawn to this grub crawl.

For those Magyarophiles who find themselves Hungry in Budapest on their Ryanair City break from under £40…

They sprinkle the culinary delights into the culture tour.

From visiting the famous thermal baths to exploring the city’s many museums and galleries, there is no shortage of attractions in Budapest.

In a stew

Meaty joy: The ghoulash

One of Budapest’s most popular food tours is the Taste Budapest – Fat Boy Foodies Walk.

Where with the help of knowledgeable guides, everybody can embark on a culinary gastronomic journey.

During the Taste Budapest – Fat Boy Foodies Walk tours, the guests can taste a wide variety of local dishes at seven different locations.

From the classic stew we grew up with and also devoured in Prague to lesser-known delicacies.

Such as the mouth-wateringly sweet trumpet cake (something to blow about) and traditional Hungarian sweets.

Have a butcher’s

Group grub: With Mate

The four-hour walking tour will also see you trawl the local markets and butcher shops.

The Fat Boy Foodies Walk is the brainchild of Máté.

During the tour, the guests can taste hot, cold, sweet and salty traditional Hungarian dishes in the city centre.

‘The favorite food of our guests is usually the lángos (fried flatbread),’ he tells us.

Down the Market: Budapest

‘It’s a typical Hungarian delicacy,’ he explains before adding…

‘And the chimney cake, which can be ordered in countless flavor variations.

‘We always tell them in advance that they arrive with an empty stomach.

‘As we will also eat a filling bowl of beef stew with dumplings, which we will wash down later with a selection of five cakes.’

Walk this way

Pizza the action: Grub crawl

The Fat Boy Foodies Walk food tour also visits places of historical significance, including a 150-year-old cafe, where the writers used to write their poems.

And the Andrássy street, where there are many designer shops, and restaurants.

You’ll also get to wash it down with fruit spirit pálinka.

Now we’ll be exploring the stalls and riverwalk of San Antonio, Texas for the American Travel Fair over the next few days.

And we dare say there will be some stewy delights with an American twist just the way we grew to like it back when in Tennessee and Mississippi and New England.

 

Countries, Europe, Food

Big cheese in Sicily

I’d be more parliamo Glasgow (ask your parents about comic Stanley Baxter) than parliamo Italiano but that didn’t stop me trying to be the big cheese in Sicily.

She’d said ‘yes’ the night before and we were enjoying a day tour in Sicily from our base in Malta.

And I was keen to impress her with my smarts on a low base of schoolboy Italian classes.

And so when the waiter asked for my dish I put on my best voce and waited for my treat.

Of course when he returned with a plate of cheese I proudly shook it off.

Insisting to herself that I knew what I was getting all along.

Brilliant Sicilians

Make you an offer: TD will

Now the islanders will quickly tell you that they are not Italians.

But Sicilians, and their dialect is very different from standard Italian.

All of which Travel Department understand knowing Italy’s biggest isle, like the back of their mano.

And they’ll bring you to the Syracuse Archaeological Park, Phoenician settlements, Roman amphitheatres, Greek temples and Aragonese churches.

They’ll take you up Mount Etna, of course.

And that’ll give me the chance to return the stones I took from the famous old volcano.

Just eat Italia

We’ve been here: Roman Villa Casale in Piazza Armerina

For many of us though no holiday, and especially, one to Italy is complete without shovelling away the food.

And in the capital, Palermo they’ll keep you fuelled on your trip.

Around Baroque landmarks and mosaics at the Roman Villa Casale in Piazza Armerina.

And recommend where to sample the best Sicilian cuisine in a typical restaurant.

Just maybe not act the Big Cheese in Sicily and leave it to those who do know.

Dish of the day: Cheese

Your waiter and your guides at Travel Department.

Also, TD are currently running a promotion until May 19 based on their Italian holidays of 7 nights or more.

Departing in June and July where customers can save €50pp by using promo code: ITALY50.

 

America, Countries, Food

Jimbalaya in New Orleans

Son of a gun, we’ll have big fun on the Bayou as we go Platinum Jimbalaya in New Orleans.

Or if you’re being particular Jambalaya and a crawfish pie and a fillet gumbo but I took to Cajun cuisine the first time I sampled it.

On the forecourt of the American Travel Fair in Washington DC where the New Orleans delegation held their liquid breakfast.

Food for thought

Jambalaya today: Get stuck in

That liquid being the famous local delicacy Sazerac.

And the jambalaya being a spicy rice pot of chicken andouille sausage, shrimps and veg.

Crawfish pie, well being crawfish which tastes a bit like lobster under a crust.

While gumbo is the Louisiana state dish, a soup of meat or shellfish, or maybe both.

With the Creole Holy Trinity of celery, bell peppers and onions.

New Orleans Saints

Easy as: Crawfish pie

All of which was consumed with relish and all before 10am.

Before the Saints came marching in and led us into the conference room.

Those Saints being the famous Preservation Hall Jazz Band.

Well we’re being seduced again by the tastes and sounds of New Orleans.

As the Big Easy delegation are the first out of the traps with details of their American Travel Fair party.

Which this May is being held in San Antonio in Texas.

And where helpfully their gig will be at the Westin Riverwalk where we’ll be staying…

Well, we are always where the party is at.

Rhythm in the heart

Souper: Gumbo

Of course New Orleans is just eight hours by road across the Deep South and served by road, rail, bus and air.

Or you could go Platinum with a 14-night fly-drive Southern Rhythms trip from €1519pp.

And what’s best is that this offer takes in and ticks off five states, Georgia, Tennessee, Mississippi, Louisiana and Alabama.

But let’s get the Irish Travel providers and American experts to give us the highlights…

Their pitch is that we will get to tap your feet to the beat in Nashville, Memphis, Lafayette and New Orleans, the region that gave rise to every form of contemporary American music.

And visit Natchez, perhaps the best preserved antebellum town in the South.

As well as historic buildings in Atlanta, where the spirit of Scarlett O’Hara is still in the air.

Although for all her fineries we’d be more Downstairs and all that jazz.

And Jimbalaya in New Orleans.

 

 

Countries, Europe, Food

Matters of the custard tart

Romantics everywhere listen up, head for Lisbon for matters of the custard tart.

Well, they do say the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach and the Portuguese speciality is likely to go right to it.

We have the monks of the Hieronymites Monastery in the parish of Saint Mary of Bethlehem to thank for our pasteis de nata.

The monks using the left-over yokes from their eggs for the pastry delicacy having used the whites to starch their habits.

On such good husbandry did Portugal earn its stripes in the bakery world.

Phallic baking

Top tip: The phallic sweet treats

Though they do do a roaring trade in a line of pastry penises (or doces falicos) or cakes (bolos).

Not made of course by mucky monks.

But a matchmaking priest from the 13th century called Sao Goncalo, or Saint Gonzalo.

Whether God had blessed him handsomely in the phallic department has been lost to history.

But the good people of his town Amarante at the western mouth of the Douro valley, celebrate him thus with these delicacies.

Twice a year… in January and the first week of June.

The pastries are given as gifts at the start of the year.

So that the recipient will have a fertile year.

And again around his saint’s day in the first week in June.

With a procession, fireworks, penis bunting, fetching penis deely-boppers and a lot of pastry penis gifts to single women.

Capital cooking

Obrigado: With the Scary One in Portugal Centro

All of which cake miscellany which I discovered along the way in Secret Portugal is just by way of getting into the spirit of Valentine’s Day early.

Which the European-based yacht charter group Catamaran Charter Croatia (no us neither) have also shown a particular interest in.

Catamaran Charter Croatia looked at each capital city in Europe.

By analysing Trip Advisor data on the number of romantic restaurants and hotels per million people in each city.

And yes, that’s right, Lisbon came out on top.

Side dishes

Dutch of class: Amsterdam Middle Eastern fare

All of which will come as a severe blow to the French who still insist they invented cooking.

And who come in second (Paris) and third (Monaco).

While the Italians who treat food with suitably less reverence and more fun have San Marino in fourth and Rome fifth.

Andorra is more than budget skiing (who knew?) and places sixth.

While look beyond their crepes (delicious though they are) and Amsterdam, in seventh, boasts eclectic Middle Eastern fare.

Athens, with its table-long banquets would turn even the most carniverous vegetarian.

While if your idea of food heaven is mixing two of three great pleasures in life then ninth-placed Prague with its beer soups is well super.

And if you’ve got money to burn then Reykjavik, in tenth, may be worth stretching the budget a bit.

The Five ‘Fs’

Fin and games: Portuguese love their fish

But it’s Portugal that’s tops, the land of the 5 Fs.

And you thought it was three… Football, Fado and Fatima but add to that Fish and Fertility fare.

And remember too to head for Lisbon for matters of the custard tart.

 

America, Countries, Food, Food & Wine

Winging it to Buffalo

Our thoughts obviously go out to our friends in the hardest-hit city in the Big Freeze of 2022 and vow to help them out by winging it to Buffalo.

Buffalonians, or Bills if you’re a fan of their American Football team, are a hardy bunch who live life to the full.

Full of cheer, beer and the culinary delight that they are best known for and shared with the world, Buffalo Wings.

All of which our group of Travel professionals were treated to first-hand in Dublin a couple of years ago.

And which, of course, we had to be spoonfed on how best to eat the chicken chunks.

And given the backstory to our favourite wings.

But no, they have nothing to do with buffaloes or Buffalo Bill.

Although it’s fun to imagine the Great Cowboy munching on chicken as he lassoed a buffalo out on the plains.

Buffalo wings on the bill

Downtown: Buffalo outside of the winter

No, Buffalo in upstate New York.

Close to the border with Canada, is far removed from the Wild West.

Although food is food everywhere and its origins often similar, hungry, or thirsty, folk, late at night.

And the need to rustle up something to fill the belly.

Which is where they were at just down the road in Connecticut.

With their Neapolitan apizza and their hamburgers from Hamburg.

As usual though we digress when where we want to be in the Anchor Bar in 1964.

Where Teresa Bellissimo welcomed her son Dominic back from college with open arms.

But with bambino and his amici needing fed.

Hot, hot, hot

Home of the wings? We were here first

Teresa needed a fast and easy snack and fell upon the idea of deep frying chicken wings (normally thrown away or reserved for stock).

And tossing them in cayenne hot sauce.

Where this gets even more interesting and is particularly culinary is that a battle then broke out.

When local bar Duff’s began selling its Buffalo wings.

We’ll let them fight it between themselves.

And content ourselves with the fact that there’s all the more to go around.

Who and why they came to be served with blue cheese and celery takes some more digging.

Wagon ale

Out on a wing: Duff’s

Maybe with a Circle the Wagons local IPA and Pilsner or any of the range of excellent upstate New York ales.

Just a couple of reasons then for winging it to Buffalo when it all thaws out.

So good luck Buffalo and we can’t wait to get around the table with you again and fly out with British Airways.

 

Food, Food & Wine

Eat like royals this Christmas

It’s the one day we all get together with our families and bitch about everybody who isn’t there… and you too can eat like royals this Christmas?

Forget what you’ve seen on telly about their hilarious tradition of giving each other cheap presents because that’s just mean and condescending.

Do the Cath: Cath Kidston

No, we want to know about their gamey pleasures, or maybe now that Chuck is in charge of the firm at Sandringham in Norfolk, it’ll be all nut roasts and organic veg.

And thanks to our old friends at interior and culinary specialists Cath Kidston we can give you an insight into royal favourites.

Royals get stuffed

Elfy meal! Get stuffed up

Of course anybody who has slaved at the stove for Christmas dinner (er, that’ll not be me) will tell you that the secret of any festive meal is the stuffing.

And Cath tells us people are already starting to plan their menus, as searches for “stuffing recipe” have
increased by 238% within the last three months, reaching a 9,900 average.

From a classic turkey stuffing to a mushroom one, there are numerous recipes that will
satisfy the Christmas appetite.

Markle Christmas: Harry and Meghan

But for the royals it’s a blend of sage and onion flavours, according to former royal chef Darren McGrady.

This recipe by Good Housekeeping combines all the traditional ingredients but with a little twist to
give the stuffing a moreish texture – crumbled and chunky sourdough bread.

Meat-free and perfect for vegetarians, this stuffing recipe is a go-to for any Christmas-loving family!

No prizes for who the Windsors want to get stuffed this Christmas, of course.

Royal puddings

Hot stuff: The Christmas pud

Talking of big puddin’-faces…

The Royals favourite dessert recipe has been revealed by chefs in the Royal Kitchens on the Royal
Family Instagram account.

The recipe features 40ml of brandy to add extra spice to the heart-warming dessert (or maybe cherry brandy as Chas is in charge).

But you can substitute it with orange juice or cold tea if you don’t want to use alcohol.

In the Royal Kitchens, the Christmas pudding mixture is stirred up on the Sunday before the Advent
season, hence it’s called stir-up Sunday.

The Sussexes aren’t coming: Charles and Camilla

The search for “Christmas pudding recipe” increased by 1,038% within the last three months.

Of course the pudding one ginger-headed aristo and his pushy Z-lister wife will be sitting down will be laced with venom.

Whoever’s side you fall on, and you can just sit on the fence.

Literally, as it’ll be warmer than the house you can’t heat.

I’m sure you’ll take comfort that they are can all eat like royals this Christmas.

 

 

Countries, Europe, Food, Food & Wine

Christmas cracker in Croatia

And the warmth of your festive welcome in the Balkans cannot be cooled by anything as small as a World Cup semi-final… it’s a Christmas cracker in Croatia.

Our old Croatian friends tell us that the World Cup is different this year even though they’ve been pulling up trees again.

It’s just that this time because the football extravaganza is being held in December it’s Christmas trees.

And that they are having to wrap up warm when they take to the streets to celebrate another victory like the one they savoured against Brazil in the quarter-finals.

Today, of course, it’s another South American behemoth.

But this remarkable country of only four and a half million proud souls is used to fighting above their weight.

And they may also have a secret ingredient which can explain the question that is often asked… how do thy do it?

Divine intervention

Dressed to kill: Medjugorje

And that is the Man upstairs, and a woman too, his mother.

At least that’s what I was told by the Franciscans preaching in the Marian hub of Medjugorge.

And OK it’s really Bosnia & Herzegovina but try telling that to the good folk of that town.

Where the only thing that vies for attention on the stalls and the shops are Croatian flags, chequered football tops and pictures of the sainted Luka Modric.

And where the bartender at the Irish Centre in the town gets his music deck out.

And plays Dynamo Zagreb songs and their games on the big screen.

Z is tops

Zagreb is, of course, the country’s capital and by dint where the biggest markets are with a bunch of awards behind it.

Its Christmas market opened on 26 November and will run until 7 January 2023.

Look out for the  creative shop-window displays, shimmering lights and decorations adorning the cobbled streets of the upper town.

Sample the roast chestnuts, sarma (sour cabbage rolls filled with minced meat), paprenjaci (peppery gingerbread cookies) and vanilla half-moons.

And watch out for the paper that they shoot from the Gric Cannon every day at noon.

Beautiful advent

Tree-mendous: Opatija

Venture to the coast between now and January 8 and you’ll find Opatija which has been hailed as ‘the most beautiful advent by the sea’.

And which has the added attraction of an ice rink by the sea.

Juraj Šporer Art Pavilion is its centrepiece, with kiosks offering festive specialities, divine desserts and mulled wine.

While we’re advised that the charming fishing village of Volosko has the catch of the day.

Pearl of the Adriatic

Pearl: Dubrovnik

For many, Dubrovnik is ‘the pearl of the Adriatic’ and it certainly was for James Joyce.

Way before Game of Thrones brought a new audience.

Its own winter festival until January 6 covers an array of locations including the iconic Stardun in the old town with festive concerts.

The festivities of the old town are set against a backdrop of thousands of glittering lights.

For even more sparkle and merriment…

Head to the colourful Winter in Lapad Bay, which comes complete with ice-rink.

Get connected

Luka here: Croatia’s finest

While Šibenik will get you connected with the New Year with the Stereo MCs on the main New Year’s stage in the square in front of the Cathedral of St. Jakov.

Where you can also enjoy Ireland’s finest, music icon Róisín Murphy.

The celebration starts at noon in the legendary park with the performance of the Šibenik Bagatin band.

And in the evening a program on two stages awaits visitors.

It’s all a Christmas cracker in Croatia..

And thanks to our friends from Croatia for the Sretan Božić.