Africa, Countries, Culture

Cool in the Caftan in Marrakech

It has long been the costume of choice of hippies returning from Morocco who reckoned they looked Cool in the Caftan in Marrakech.

But stood out like a thumb in the chilly north of our wee island.

There is, of course, a practical reason why North Africans and those in the Middle East wear the long flowing clothes and headgear they do.

D’oh: We all think we look good in one

And because they have been donning these cool clothes for centuries then they look a good deal cooler than their imitators.

It will come as little surprise to hear that the kaftan, or long robe, originated in the Ottoman Empire and spread across the Arab world.

Although it also shows up in Jewish dress and Russian too.

Flowing robes

Westernised: Our fave Arab import

For our purposes, of course, we let somebody else do the heavy lifting, and that somebody is the temporary exhibition at Caftan Week.

Of course, the emphasis is on the fairer sex here, and really long flowing robes are really only ever best on a woman.

And a dusky North African or Middle Eastern beauty at that.

Of course if you happen to be in the Rose City now and want to put in the prep before Caftan Week between May 7-10.

Then you should think about heading to Histoire de Caftan by Diamantine.

Which showcases textiles stacked floor to ceiling with every colour of velvet, muslin, cotton and sequin cloth.

Needle & thread walk through the souk

Shop till you drop: The souks

We’re advised to take the needle & thread walk through the ancient souks.

Now anyone who has walked through the souks will know that you’ll need to avoid vendors trying to barter with you and thrust apple teas into your hand.

The well mapped-out trail will take you to several vibrant areas of the ancient medina from tailoring to dyers souks.

Now Diamantine, has been at the forefront of the atelier scene for 15 years.

This year’s Caftan Week is dedicated to the theme ‘Nefes El Atlas’, or ‘Breath of the Atlas’.

And pays tribute to the mountains and their culture, which has acted as a source of inspiration for local designers and fashion houses.

And the exotic Pink City is easily accessible from your local airport and we found an EasyJet return flight covering the dates of Caftan Week from £302pp for three nights.

Countries, Deals, Europe, Flying

Aer road to Marrakech

The Sahara in my hair and stubbly beard, rushing for a connection from Casablanca, would that I’d had Aer road to Marrakech.

What they don’t tell you before you head to Morocco.

At least not until you return, is to take Imodium with you.

To guard against the bugs you can pick up from unhygienic Atlas Mountain roadside cafes en route to the Sahara.

None of which, of course, is the responsibility of any airline.

Survivor from Sahara

Eider got a bug: In the Sahara

Only it helps if you then don’t have to hop between Moroccan airports with your British flight.

To get back to London and then take a train to Edinburgh where I was living back then some 30 years ago.

Twas a time too before everyone had a mobile phone so I couldn’t easily report home of my condition.

So that when I stumbled gaunt over the doorstep I’m reliably told that I looked like a survivor from the Sahara.

Which, in truth, I was.

Marrakech excess

Now in 35 years of travelling the world to share its joys for your amusement I’ve been fortunate.

That Morocco is the only time I’ve nearly been hospitalised.

Now should I build up the courage to return to Marrakech I will be prepared.

And that’ll mean flying out of Dublin directly to Marrakech on one of three new Aer Lingus routes.

Flights to Marrakesh will operate from October 27, with fares starting at €69.99.

And you’re welcome, it will just mean you can get back more stress free from your riad.

Maybe in your kaftan, those Fatima hand jewellery and whatever other trinkets you’ve bartered away.

Marrakech is, in truth, a challenge but hey, I’m still talking about it 30 years later.

And Malta and Seville too

And a neat Segway: In Malta and Gozo

As I am, and for different reasons, with Malta where I took the knee and took a fiancee back.

And where Aer Lingus will operate flights from October 25 along with Seville.

Now it’s in the eye of the behoder which destination you keep going back to, and that I do.

But if I get over my reservations about Morocco, and I should.

Then it will be because of Aer road to Marrakech.

Africa, America, Asia, Countries, Europe

Northern Lights mania

So in nearly nine years in Aberdeen, ‘the home of the Aurora Borealis’ I never saw them once but now in my little rock at the top of Europe and across the continent there is Northern Lights mania.

OK, so I was messing in science in school so don’t really follow any of the reasons for this phenomenon.

But here goes… the arrival of a Coronal Mass Ejections from the sun can cause the annulus to expand, bringing the aurora to lower latitudes.

That Aberdeen has dined out on the boast of being ‘the home of the Aurora Borealis’ is mainly due to the salesmanship of concert pianist Mary Hall.

A Brummie no less, who never set foot in the Granite City, but who wrote the song with her husband Mel for a homesick Aberdonian, Winnie Forgie, who they befriended.

Heavenly dancers

All around the world: A sky spectacular

The ‘Heavenly Dancers’ as they are known in these parts were once again celebrated when Local Hero, a Burt Lancaster movie mostly set in Aberdeenshire, just up the coast became a cult hit in the 80s.

The story being that an oil baron switched his plans to pump the North Sea for fuel in favour of building an observatory after falling in love with the area.

Those who have seen the Northern Lights say that it’ll do that to you.

Of course, while people up and down the country and across Europe are claiming to have seen the Northern Lights from their back gardens the best place to view them is in remote areas.

And in spots unaffected by street lighting.

Now while we bask on this British island and wherever you live Dark Skies resorts cater for us at other times of the year.

Tenerife star trekking

Scope it out: Tenerife

Now you’ll have seen the Tenerfenos protesting the overtourism on their island but that’s mainly in the southern hotspots.

The real jewels on the Canarian island are in the interior, the west coast and the volcanic peak in the north that is Mount Teide.

Europe’s most visited national park there is still plenty of space for us all to trek.

And as for stars, you’ll get an unspoiled view too of the milky way and Saturn’s rings from the top of Tenerife.

Night out with stars in the States

Dancer: Utah

Now when you think of a night out with the stars in the States you immediately think of Hollywood.

And yes, that was one takeaway from a week in LA LA Land.

But while there at the American Travel Fair, IPW, I was introduced to a wider galaxy of stars.

Utah really is more about the Milky Way than the Mormons with the highest concentration of International Dark-Sky Association-certified areas.

The Salt Lake State boasts 26 International Dark Sky Places within the state.

That accounts for 13% of the 200 locations around the globe formally recognized by DarkSky International.

Utah is also home to the first international Dark Sky Park, Natural Bridges National Monument.

Jordan jewels and Moroccan marvels

Of course, the desert is always a go-to for reaching for the skies.

And Wadi Rum in Jordan is designated an international Dark Sky Reserve.

Which means that you can spot stars that are over 100 times dimmer in Jordan than in your home town.

While if you find yourself inconvenienced in the Moroccan part of the Sahara Desert then what else is there to do?

Than watch the cycle of the night and day and shooting stars in Fezland while you’re shitting stars.

MEET YOU IN THE SKIES 

 

 

 

 

 

Africa, Countries, Culture

Sidecar around the dastardly Atlas Mountains

It conjures up the image of Dick Dastardly and Muttley, a sidecar around the dastardly Atlas Mountains.

So picture, if you will, a biblical deluge, and a Moroccan guide fasting for Ramadan.

He’s only driving a minibus around windy cliff roads with rain and the mountain falling around the vehicle.

Yes,Wacky Races had nothing on this… and now someone wants to sidecar around the Dastardly Atlas Mountains!

Now what is it about Morocco and the Moroccans?

Concierge a votre service

Take it as Red: Marrakech, the Red City

Our guide that day in the mountains would have nothing of us cancelling the trip to the desert because of the weather.

And we suspect, the end of the world apart, neither will the Royal Mansour Marrakech.

Because they boast a concierge service of which their royal family would be proud.

And what bigger thrill than to discover the Atlas Mountains off the beaten path aboard a vintage style sidecar?

While if you prefer to keep your feet on solid ground then they know the best centuries-old, shepherds’ paths to hike.

Right, you reach the desert, past the pleading brown-eyed kids who get pushed towards you with their little palm camels.

Weaving between remote Berber villages, mountain pastures and craggy massifs to venture over panoramic passes.

Before you feast on Moroccan culinary delights in the Agafay Desert beneath a Bedouin tent.

The big tent

Step on it: The glorious lobby

And stay overnight at eco-luxe lodge La Pause to indulge in an evening of stargazing, next to tributary river with spectacular views.

Better than staring at the skies from an outdoor, open-roofed toilet, because you’ve eaten a tagine from a fly-ridden barbecue up thar mountains… but then that was just me. 

The feasting doesn’t stop there – the 30th of July commemorates the crowning of the King with the Feast of the Throne, a celebration filled with delectable feasts, fireworks displays and parades.

And how to get around… well, what about quad bikes or in a buggy, a guided hike or cycling tour, or discover the desert on horseback (I preferred a camel).

Elsewhere, watch the sun rise over the Sahara from a hot air balloon, accompanied by a champagne picnic on board.

Marvel at dancers, snake charmers, fortune-tellers, acrobats and more at the Marrakech Popular Arts Festival taking place in the city’s palaces, streets, and squares between July 2-6.

While the city’s Oasis Festival takes place between September 13 and 15.

With three days of electronic music, surf trips, yoga sessions and swimming at the base of the Atlas Mountains.

All of which adventures and peregrinations will mean that you’ll be wanting some R&R back in the Royal Mansour.

Live like a royal

Tree-mendous: The courtyard

Well, their specifications bills the Royal Mansour as:

Just steps from the Medina, showcasing an open-air courtyard and nearly four acres of lush gardens. 

These have recently been extended to incorporate a beautiful kitchen garden Atelier d’Artiste and an elevated, private dining space.

And they encourage us to stay in private multi-story riads dotted along pink pathways. No carts; no rooms; no crowds.

And they’re not finished there…

Because the property’s crown jewel is the three-story, 2,500 square-metre Spa Royal Mansour which is accessed through a private citrus grove.

The elaborate white birdcage atrium is bathed in natural light and offers multi-day wellness programmes to soothe the body, mind, and soul.

And for the creatives there’s art therapy sessions in the Atelier d’Artiste.
 
Situated within a glass-panelled greenhouse surrounded by the quiet serenity of the property’s gardens.
 
So whether it’s pottery, photography, calligraphy or embroidery, art therapists encourage guests to reconnect with their inner selves.

And a pool day at the hotel’s 30-metre-long, 20-metre-wide pool offers serenity.

With seven, air-conditioned, private pavilions allowing poolgoers to relax and refresh.

That’s a deal

Ya dancer: And learn the moves

And best of all they are offering a four nights for the price of  three summer offer meaning one-bedroom riads start from £1,200 per night.

And that includes breakfast, immigration fast track service + airport transfers in Marrakech.

 

 

Countries, Europe

Happy Eva after in Algarve

She was a restless spirit, a TV health expert with wanderlust whose travel needs were entrusted to me… so I’m glad she’s finally found her Happy Eva after in Algarve.

Straight-talking Dr Eva Orsmond made a name for herself with her honest appraisals of contestants on RTÉ’s Operation Transformation.

But our paths only crossed when il capo di capi, no not the Scary One but the bubble-permed CEO of my company, deigned to seek me out on her behalf.

To ask me to organise a week’s 5* holiday in the sun for her and her mum at four days’ notice… and all gratis.

And yes, it was one of those offers you can’t refuse.

Well, you know what they say about making a rod for your own back.

Moroccan stroll

Souk it up: Morocco

I called around my contacts and four days later the bould Eva and mum were heading off for Morocco.

Of course, my work wasn’t finished there and I had to call on all my editing skills.

To extract out of her a story for my award-winning Travel section beyond the mechanics of food recycling… her own recycling.

As you know I normally like a challenge.

And I managed to prise out of her the tale of Ireland’s scariest diet doctor and the only woman she reported to… her Mum!

My mercy mission complete I kept my head down in the hope that Eva’s compo holiday would sate her.

And I could get on with the rest of my job.

Eva’s back

Hamam bam: Istanbul

Only Eva had a hold on the CEO and I worked for the Man, the Bubble Perm Man.

And so a few months later she came asking again… only my options of France, Spain or Turkey didn’t appeal.

With Eva saying she couldn’t possibly go to one of those (I can’t remember which) because it held unhappy memories for her.

Eva has naturally gone off my radar since returning to Scotland after my 13 years in Ireland.

Next port of call

Tranquil: Eva’s place

Only for news to come my way that she has only found a hotspot which she doesn’t need a Travel Mr Fixit to sort.

Her own establishment in Algarve, a place we love, is the Solar Alvura Health Hotel.

The blurb tells us it’s ‘a destination for transformation (channeling her breakout show).

‘The health hotel offers a welcoming environment that enables visitors to unwind, reset, and turn their health aspirations into tangible results.’

And the woman herself says: ‘We believe in creating a relaxed atmosphere at Solar Alvura.

‘Where you can meet like-minded people, experience an array of fun activities, and feel inspired to embrace a healthy lifestyle.’

Fare play

Fly high: Ryanair

Nestled between the stunning coastline of the Eastern Algarve and Sao Miguel Mountain, Solar Alvura is adults only.

The elegant health hotel located a thirty-minute drive of Faro Airport.

The Solar Alvura Health Hotel will re-open on 10th February 2023.

And you will be under strict orders to transform yourself when you’re there.

And find your happy Eva after in Algarve.

Fly Ryanair from £26.

 

 

 

 

Africa, America, Countries, Europe, Ireland, UK

How happy on the mountain

How happy on the mountain are the feet of He who brings good news… that today is International Mountain Day.

And yes, of course, while there is a day of the year for almost everything, our mountains are there every day.

It took the United Nations until 2003 though before they advanced our peaks for an International Day.

Of course being from the mountainous top half of this septic island they call Britain I’d been to the roof and looked down.

You dancer: In the Pyrenees

And admired Scotland’s valleys and glens and looked out and wondered of the view from other peaks.

Nothing as adventurous or backbreaking as mountaineering, or bagging Munros, those Scottish peaks, of which there are 282.

Border force

Cross country: At the Austrian-German border

But leaving it to our dream makers, our holiday makers, to take us up where the air is fresh and sweet.

For some who are lucky enough to live in the mountains then gorges can be part of their daily routine.

And so it is nothing to locals who cross the border through a mountain gate between Austrian Tirol and the Bavarian Alps.

While others will trek across the Alps into northern Italy.

The mountains have long been routes through which people have traversed for trade, adventure, or in flight.

Although, as we’ve tracked already in these pages the most famous fleeing family most certainly never climbed every mountain.

But rather the Von Trapps took the train into Italy instead.

Mountain people

Only way is up: Jungraujoch in Switzerland

The most romantic way through the mountains is of course by foot but we’ve hit the peaks in all of those… trains, planes and snowmobiles.

Trains… on the Jungfraujoch Railway, the highest train route in Europe.

Planes and helicopters in the mountains above the Grand Canyon.

By coach up the Rockies on Colorado and Graaf-Reinet in the Eastern Cape in South Africa.

In the frame: With my fellow Jim in the Pyrenees

And with half the Atlas Mountains descending on your Scooby Doo van during a rainy Ramadan.

Mountains are to be admired, of course, but to be respected too.

And we continually wonder at the skills of those who keep an eye on them when they are stirring.

And point out nonchalantly when we’re in the Pyrenees that there’s an avalanche in the distance.

Slope off on your hols

The Snowy One: Herself in Soll

This time of year is, of course, reserved for those who put planks on their feet and zig-zag down the mountains.

And whether that’s in our northern tip of Britain, my favoured ski slopes of Soll in Austria and Val D’Isere in France.

And on the dry slopes of my other land, Ireland, at Kilternan.

We’re all on the same page…

How happy on the mountain are the feet of those who bring good news.

Our dream makers, our holiday providers.

 

 

Africa, Countries, Deals

Paying for the jerseys in Marrakech

And as Morocco roar in the riads and the Portuguese souk it up a personal tale of paying for the jerseys in Marrakech.

Twas back in the day when I was playing five-a-sides and awaiting the inevitable call-up from the Scotland national manager.

And I would collect football tops on my travels to show off to my pals when I got home.

And so I’d channeled my inner Cristiano Ronaldo by buying a Sporting Lisbon top in Portugal.

And my Pierre Van Hooijdonk with my Fenerbahce jersey in Turkey.

Marrakech express

Moroccan roll: Exotic Marrakech

I don’t know who I’d be following with my Morocco top from Marrakech.

The only Moroccan player I knew being a little-known winger Hicham Zerouali, plying his trade with Aberdeen.

Following Morocco’s heroics in the World Cup quarter-finals we’ll know a lot more of their players.

Back to Marrakech though and I was on a mission.

And having had an early introduction to bartering in Turkey earlier that summer I was ready for the Moroccans.

Only I wasn’t.

Square deal

Fantastic: Moroccan fans

Marrakech’s main square Jemaa-el Fna is Barter Central.

Where savvy traders play tourists for every last dirham.

And send you on your way with a polyester jersey which wares in the wash.

While you’ll always lose out to the market hustlers in Jemaa-el Fna then it’s good that there’s always someone you can fall back on.

And when it comes to Morocco then Sunway certainly know one end of the camel from the other.

Sunway to go

Take it as red: The Moroccan national team

As it happens Sunway is offering a band of offers this month.

With three night breaks from €448, seven nights from €396.

Or 10 night breaks from €495.

Or next month three night breaks from €214, 7-night breaks from €310 or 10-night breaks from €382. 

Who knows where we’ll be by the time you get out to Morocco this month?

You may be on the lookout among the fez-wearers for a World Cup winning top.

But be wary that could mean paying for the jerseys in Marrakech.

 

Africa, Countries, Deals

Souk it and see in Morocco

I’ll never complain of a shopping mall again after Marrakech… but hey, you should souk it and see in Morocco.

And particularly because you’ll have our old friends Ireland’s Travel Department as your hosts and not the false guide I trusted.

You know the one I’ve told you about before who told me he knew a very good barber (pre-beardie Bandanaman).

Only for said Sweeney Todd and himself trying to fleece me when I got there.

One thing led to another and after a brush with a snake charmer in the torrential rain I found myself back in the souk.

And behind a funeral procession of wailing Moroccans and a rather shoogly cart where the poor deid fella’s feet seemed to be attracting flies… or was that the cows.

Carpeted

Anyhoos, bursting for a wee (all that tea) I gave in to the constant traders’ hard sells and took up the invitation of a Turkish tea in a carpet shop.

The Scary One got a shock when a threadbare carpet arrived at Chez Murty with a rather expensive price tag days after I got back.

And it was more than a penny I spent there.

Just be careful is all I’m saying and although I did actually resist the carpet seller’s advances I might not have.

Go with experts is all I’m saying and that’s exactly what TD active Holidays are.

Fes of the heart

They are offering an east meets west seven-night guided holiday to Morocco.

They are flagging up year-round sunshine, medinas, cosmopolitan cities, sandy beaches, barren desserts, impressive mountain ranges, culture and tasty cuisine.

You’ll discover Morocco’s largest Mosque and ancient Roman ruins in Casablanca.

And savour regional flavours with an authentic cooking class led by a local chef in Fes where you can get one of those Tommy Cooper hats.

Camel caravan in the Sahara of Morocco

You’ll get to explore the Sahara Desert with a camel ride and traditional overnight camp stay… but just watch the mountainside cafes and their tajines.

And you’ll spend a half-day walking the Tizi n’Tichka Mountain Pass in the Atlas Mountains.

Rock the Kasbah

You’ll also drive through Dades Valley and along the famous ‘Road of 1,000 Kasbahs’.

And yes they say it rocks… ask your parents here for Clash references.

Staying in a combination of traditional riads, hotels and even a traditional Berber camp, this is a small group tour.

Includes return flights, transfers, 4 nights’ accommodation on a half board basis, 3 nights on a bed and breakfast basis; tours and expert guides.

Departs on 15th September from €1059 pp. So go ahead souk it and see in Morocco.

 

 

 

Countries, Culture, Deals, Europe

Phoenicia Malta

Peter, our guide, is a mongrel, a citizen of Phoenicia Malta…. with British, Italian, Greek and Arab and other blood mingled in.

Phoenicia, you say? Well, we know it from the Bible.

There’s a shipwreck out there: Gozo

Ezekial called these post-Canaanites from today’s Lebanon and Syria ‘the princes of the seas’

And they set foot on Cyprus, Sicily, Sardinia, Malta, northern Africa (Morocco) and southern Spain.

Infinity and beyond: Valletta

We see evidence of their impact on the Med in a shipwreck off Gozo, Malta’s little brother.

And in names throughout the archipelago of Malta, Gozo and Comino.

And the Phoenicia Malta hotel which we’re glad to reveal has had a refurb.

The Phoenicia Malta is rightly proud of its 7 and a half acres of gardens which stretch to the walls of capital Valletta.

Phoenicia pleaser

All of which they transformed from an overgrown mini-golf course and which they will use to cultivate vegetables.

And bring them from garden to plate and treat you too to cookery demonstrations.

 

The emphasis is on peace and relaxation with stunning views of one of the world’s great harbours.

While you’ll be pampered too in the Deep Nature Spa.

Everything in the garden is rosy

And enjoy the infinity Bastion Pool, its poolside menu, chill-out music and waters warmed by the Maltese sun.

With Malta a flagship destination on the UK’s new green list.

In the pink: Elegant repose

Kirker Holidays are offering a three-night break in August from €799pps including flights, private transfers and accommodation with breakfast.

And Kirker Guide notes and the services of the Kirker concierge.

A week’s stay comes in at €1489pps.

With Malta green-lighted the jewel of the Med is the present, the future and the past all rolled into Phoenicia Malta.