Countries, Europe

Scotland’s Secret Bunker

There are some secrets you want to share particularly as we might be needing them soon, so I was intrigued by the signpost to Scotland’s Secret Bunker.

The bunker, amusingly, is located near St Andrews, the Home of Golf but they’re more interested here in nukes than niblicks.

Scotland’s Secret Underground Nuclear Centre, to give it its Sunday name, wasn’t advertised, naturally, back in the day.

But thankfully with the end of the Cold War (no, really) it is a tourist site.

Down on the farm

Get your tin helmet on: In the Bunker

The bunker stands a hundred feet down with the entrance hidden in an unsuspecting farmhouse.

RAF Troywood, which was built in 1953, covers 24,000sqft of Command Centre.

It incorporates the radar technology of that era, dormitory, plotting room and mess.

The visitor attraction is open from February 1 to November 30.

It’s £13.95 for adults, £9.95 for children and £12.95 for concessions with a 2.2 family rate coming in at £37.95.

The bunker was primed for 50 years before it was put in mothballs but has thankfully been spruced up for our amusement.

Czech out the Bunker

Behind the Mask: The Communist Tour

Going underground gives a perspective into another world and you don’t have to be a military historian to enjoy it.

Of course, it stands to reason that while we were hunkering down in preparation for them attacking us.

The Warsaw Pact were doing the same over on their side.

Which I saw first hand in Prague in Czechia. On my Prague Communism Tour.

Where I was taken behind the thickest steel door imaginable on the side of a mound.

And taken down into the bowels of the Earth to see how the Czechs prepared to hide away from our bombs.

Needless to say the food was tinned meat an the likes although the Czechs would have stocked up on Urquell Pilsner.

They probably underestimated too how many loos they would have needed for full-blooded Pragueites.

Hitler’s hideaway

You’re Herr: The old site

Check out (sorry) too nuclear bunkers from Arizona to Asia for similar experiences.

While to experience what life must have been like in the most famous bunker of all head for Berlin.

Alas Hitler’s Reichstag in the German capital is no longer there but they have recreated it for you here… it’s the next best thing.

And, of course, we’ll be there just as soon as we can.

For now though we’re looking into Scotland’s Secret Bunker… just in case we need it soon.

 

 

Countries, Europe

Winter fell in Narnia

Winter is coming to a theatre near you… that fantasy world of fauns when Winter fell in Narnia in The Lion, The Witch and the Wardrobe.

Long before Game of Thrones came the worlds of Narnia and Middle-Earth (my favourite).

We were first introduced to the winter world of Narnia as schoolchildren back in the Seventies…

When the teacher would read us the adventures of Peter, Susan, Edmund and Lucy.

The stage is set

I love Lucy: In Narnia

Now, of course, we can see the fantasy four on the big screen.

And also in the stage presentation of the UK’s favourite novel at the Gillian Lynne Theatre in London.

And on our travels in locations from CS Lewis’s Belfast to Czechia,  New Zealand with stops too in England.

Whether Lewis had Czechia in mind when the children stumbled through the wardrobe is doubtful.

The Aslan Arch

Archway to Narnia: In Bohemian Switzerland

But the location managers fell upon Bohemian Switzerland when they visited the Czech Republic as we did.

And they had themselves their Aslan Arch… and much more.

Such as the forbidding wintry rock formations through which Lucy emerges from the wardrobe and meets Mr Tumnus.

That’s Tiske Steny towering above the village of Tisá, about 50 miles north of Prague.

And if you are so minded then the cliffs provide an ideal spot for experienced rock climbers.

Lion in wait

How can I protect you? Aslan

The real photo grab, of course, is the Pravcicka Gate.

Narnians will recognise it from Peter, Susan, and Lucy leading the beavers walking on it.

While escaping the wrath of the White Witch and her wolves.

They stop to look at the Table Mountain above the frozen river where Aslan should be.

And a reveal here and because of the old movie maxim of never working with animals or children.

But they didn’t use a real lion for Aslan but created it with the magic of CGI effects.

The Pravcicka Gate they walk on though is for real.

And to give you a sense of its scale it is only the largest natural sandstone arch in Europe with a span of over 25 metres.

What a delight

Fab frosting: Turkish delight

Now to protect it you can’t stand on it, but rather under it.

But you can view it from the Falcon’s Nest hotel alongside.

Where you can find a well-preserved period restaurant.

And I dare say you’ll not have to ask if they have any Turkish Delight.

So if you’re either a Lewis fan or are wanting to mug up before the stage show then get out to Bohemian Switzerland in Czechia.

Where Winter fell in Narnia.

 

Countries, Europe

Black Drac and Blackjack

Think Romania and chances are it’ll be Count Dracula rather than counting cards but Transylvania is home to Black Drac and Blackjack.

And you thought Monte Carlo was where all the high rollers hang out.

Well, central Europe has a rich casino tradition with the suavest of the suave playing the tables in Czechia.

At the Grandhotel Pupp in Karlovy Vary in the opening shots of Casino Royale.

Dog Holliday

Joker in the pack: Bandanaman

My own gambling credentials are more Dog Holliday than Doc Holliday.

Despite what the pictures from the Knott’s Berry Farm old-style casino in California might show.

As anyone who had seen my dice hop the craps table in Las Vegas, where I earned the nickname Hannibal, will testify.

Cards on the table I prefer to keep my money in my pocket and divert it to the bar but there is a gambling tourist out there.

Casinogrounds

Kerching: And would the Simpsons like it?

And we, and Casinogrounds, aim to please and know you players want to keep your shekels to spend on chips.

The online gambling site analysed the number of casinos and the average cost of hotels in 35 European countries.

And they arrived at these best gambling holiday destinations in Europe.

And putting the rummy into Romania, the land of Black Drac and Blackjack comes out top ahead of Czechia.

Rummy in Romania

Red meat: For Dracula

The land of Black Drac and Blackjack boasts 439 casinos, and the second cheapest cost of hotels after Albania.

And hang onto your hat, that’s an average £19.57 for your room.

Now if you want to channel your inner James Bond then you’ll have a choice of 421 casinos in Czechia.

And while if you can afford it then the Pupp is the biz.

You don’t have to break the bank at any of the Bohemians’ other hotels with the average price of a room only £38.17.

Do you take a Czech?

The Pupp and the Pupparazzi: At the Grandhotel Pupp

Czechia’s neighbour Slovakia is also a big draw for gamblers with 223 casinos.

And you’ll get change out of £40 at ab average £39.88 per room.

The rest of the top ten is made up of Balkans and Baltics with our favourite Croatians and Bosnia and Herzovinans featuring.

While Poland and the three interlinked states of Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia are also flagged up.

Cheap as chips

In the money: You’d be quackers not to

Of course the burning question is just how cheap are those rooms in Albania.

Well, hold your breath, the average room is £14.19 and there are 54 casinos throughout the country.

So you can throw your money around, and your dice. 

 

Asia, Countries, Culture, Europe

Turkiye yeah

And because I’ve been teased all my life about my name and because I love Turks today I’m saying Turkiye yeah.

The Turks have applied to the UN to have the name of their country accepted as Turkiye, pronounced Turkee yeah.

With Onur in Istanbul

And not Turkey as in the name of our favourite Christmas bird.

Or in its modern parlance, meaning a flop.

And I stand guilty of benefiting through riffing any number of headlines as a Travel editor.

The name change sounds reasonable.

And a regular request to the UN from countries, according to Stephane Dujarric.

What’s in a name?

Look at the head on that: Zatec, Czechia

The Czech Republic was born and Czechoslovakia laid to rest when Slovakia went their own way.

Though what happened to the O’s in the divide we never did learn.

The Czechs found too that it soon became long-winded for branding and asked the UN for the change to Czechia (hard k for ch).

And in doing so they are following the precedent of the French who use France instead of their official Samedi name ‘The French Republic’.

Dutch of class

žCan I be trusted on a bike? In Amsterdam

Now lazy titling becomes wearisome to those of us who have become victims of the bigger country syndrome.

And for those of a Scots, and Welsh, variety it is an occupational hazard to put up with being called English the further we travel.

Similarly in the Netherlands where the short hand of Holland had been used when that should only apply to the north and south of the country.

In 2020 while the rest of us were preoccupied by Covid the Dutch ditched the nickname Holland.

Whatever you call it, and since being alerted to the sensitivities while there for the first time 30 years ago, it’s still Edam good country.

North stars

Fly the flag: North Macedonia football fans

Now putting your place on the compass at the top of your name is always a good idea to differentiate yourself.

And we see it in South Sudan and also in North Macedonia, the latter to placate the Greeks where there is a region, Macedonia.

Throughout the post-imperialist world countries have reclaimed their countries and changed their names to their native tongue.

Shout of Africa

March to Freedom: Siseko and Mandela in SA

And so Swaziland became Eswatini, meaning ‘land of the Swazis’ in their language in 2018, the 50th anniversary of independence from the British throne.

Yes, blink and you can miss the changes and the Port Elizabeth I knew in South Africa’s Eastern Cape has become the Xhosa-clicking Gqeberha… as it should.

In these Celtic countries in which we live (Scotland, Wales, Ireland) there has been a move too to Gaelicise our towns and villages.

Gael force

Piping hot: Scots culture

And during Scotland’s march to freedom, the Gaelic name for Scotland, Alba has raised to prominence.

So here’s to all countries who reclaim their birthright, to Turkiye yeah… and Alba.

Or the Republic of Scotland as we’ll get back to striving for.

Just as soon as this forelock-tugging and curtsying deception, the Platinum Jubilee, is out of the way.

 

Countries, Culture, Europe

Take the water with royalty in Tuscany

Famous for its Chianti and Sangiovese if you truly want to live like a king (or queen) you’ll take the water with royalty in Tuscany.

The monarchs of Europe, showbiz royalty, romantic poets and the elite of classical music have been coming to Italy for centuries.

They’d lie about, sip the salty curatives and do what they did best and create.

Smiles better: Ellen Coughlan

TV host Ellen Coughlan has made it her mission to have her name carved into the stones of the VIPs who have visited.

From Puccini to Caruso to Grace Kelly to more.

The full Montecatini

Pillar of strength: Montecatini

The Irish adventurer has teamed up with Globetrotter TV to showcase the European Route of Historical Thermal Towns with viewings on Sky.

And she kicks off the seven-part Amazing Towns series in Montecatini Terme.

The first thing that strikes you about Ellen is how healthy and vibrant she is and how little need she would have for a termal spa.

Yes, that’s the other thing… that as a gúna-wearing cailín (a dress-wearing lass) she naturally drops the ‘h’.

Ellen explores much of the territory I have myself on my trips to the Spa Triangle in the Czech Republic.

Czech out the Bohemains too

Sweet Karolina: Czech springs

And she’ll experience King Edward VII’s bath (check) in Marianske Lazne, listening to the Singing Fountain (tick) in Frantiskovy Lazne.

And has a licence to thrill at the James Bond Casino Royale (check), the Grandhotel Pupp in Karlovy Vary.

But first it’s Montecatini Terme which like many old Italian towns comes as a pair.

And has an alto hilltop town, like Bergamo.

The Grand Tour

Spray that again: The magic water

There are plenty of old Grand Tour touchpoints.

Stunning architecture, renaissance art and music.

And fountains and taps obvs for your water.. and 500+ toilette!

Montecatini boasts too its own postcode and post office in its writing house.

Where you can only imagine Byron and Shelley wrote home of their exploits.

This being Italy there’s always exotic travel, and the transport I always levitate to… a funicular.

In this case two red ones much beloved of Guiseppe Verdi (or Joe Green to you and me) take the 1770m journey.

Fun on the funicular 

Rail thing: The funicular

It’s not just the funicular train that takes the strain.

Back down in Terme there are masseurs in hand to ease your knots.

While you can detoxify from your liquid lunch in the hot and cold walking pools and bicycle jacuzzis (si si).

And with that Ellen was off to Acqui Terme to continue her near 3,000km road trip around the seven towns on her odyssey.

On the road again

Hitting the heights: Alto

Before checking in (soz) at my favourite Spa Triangle and Frantiskove Lazne, Karlovy Vary and Marianske Lazne.

And then Germany and Baden-Baden and Wiesbaden.

So that now you’ve taken the water with royalty in Tuscany you can sample the rest of what Ellen’s Grand Tour has to offer.

 

Countries, Culture, Europe

Czech out these film stars

Now not a lot of people know this, as Michael Caine might say, but you should Czech out these film stars in Karlovy Vary.

The Karlovy Vary Film Festival honoured Caine, the Grand Old Man of British cinema, at a fully-live renewal of the moviethon.

Karlovy Vary, in the east of the Czech Republic, has welcomed Hollywood’s finest for more than 70 years.

Since it announced itself and its country’s recently nationalised film industry after the Second World War.

Thank you Vary much

The name’s Murty, James Murty: Bond’s Casino hotel

The good people of Karlovy Vary opened up their cinema, and their hearts, to us when we visited the Czech Republic for the first time a few years ago.

And we got an insight into how this jewel of a Central European country shines bright in the movie world.

More on what’s happening in KV anon but first join me for a lager in Loket with Richard Gere.

The American Gigolo spent a day in this 12th-century castle town on the River Ohre.

Good Gere

Czech out the movies: Richard Gere at the Karlovy Vary Film Festival

Where Richard inscribed a note for the walk in Czech at the Cisar Ferdinand Restaurant and Florian Family Brewery.

And no doubt dug into the signature suckling pig which cooks on coals for at least six hours.

Richard is right about the brew and the Amber beer made its way back with us.

Einstein I go, go

Use your brain: Film in Karlovy Vary

There’s no record of the film director Ron Howard imbibing when he shot his drama Einstein with Geoffrey Rush here.

All of which I missed when I was there although the town was dressed up for Albie’s era.

All of which you’ll enjoy on a day out to Loket frim KV.

As well as checking out the world’s oldest comet at the castle.

The Czech Cannes

Now for the red carpet: With Agnetha in front of Loket Castle

KV takes on the feel of a Cannes at this time in August.

But as well as movie star watching the film fan is drawn to the Grandhotel Pupp.

Which doubled for the casino where James Bond played the tables in Casino Royale.

If you bump into Daniel Craig don’t expect him to buy you an Amber beer from his winnings…

The tight git only recently revealed that he wouldn’t leave his millions to his kids when he died.

Festival time

When in Karlovy Vary: A local good luck tradition

The KV Film Festival runs through Saturday.

The site will tell you better than your not-so-humble blogger can about what’s going on and who’s coming.

But Zatopek, the biopic of the Czech long distance runner who won the 5,000, 10,000 and Marathon all at the same Olympics caught the eye.

What was Emil’s secret? Czech beer, I bet.

So Czech out these film stars and their films at the Karlovy Vary Film Festival..

Or follow them online.

 

America, Countries, Europe, Food & Wine, Ireland, UK

Who is beerier than Prague?

Whisper it around the Czech capital but they’ve relinquished their boozy crown. So who is beerier than Prague?

In a word Asheville. Ashe-where?

Asheville is a city in western North Carolina’s Blue Ridge Mountains.

And it’s renowned for its arts scene.

Carolina on my mind

Asheville: In the Blue Ridge Mountains

Well they know already that they have more breweries per capita than any city in the US… that’s roughly 100 local beers.

But now they can add the prestiguous title of Best City in the World for Beer Drinkers as compiled by money.co.uk.

The researchers mark the cities on breweries per 10,000 people, bars, pubs and clubs per 10,000 and average price per pint in sterling.

Asheville scores 2.80, 7.86 and £3.58 from which I can only draw the conclusion… get me out there!

Czech out the beer

In the Strahov Monastery Brewery in the Czech Republic

Particularly as second and fourth on the list are beer cities I know well, Prague and Fort Collins, Colorado.

While the third beeriest is one The Son and Heir knows well, Krakow, Poland.

Where it was more ale than hail when he was a youth leader for World Youth Day.

While in Prague the most exercised you’ll get is walking back up from Wenceslas Square to The Castle.

But get this… £1.34 a pint.

Wade in with Colorado beer

Beertown Fort Collins

In Fort Collins you’ll be required to do some white water rafting although you’ll get the reward of a local brew at Paddler’s Pub.

And in FC that’s £2.87 a pint although you’d probably double that with the American tip.

It wouldn’t be a beery list, of course, without Dublin, and the Fair City comes in eighth.

Pure Genius: Guinness Storehouse

The Guinness Storehouse is on every tourist’s list in Dublin’s capital.

Although some local knowledge here and pick your way through tourist trap Temple Bar.

Where you can pay nearly double the £4.70 money.com relays.

Islands of beer

Auld Boozie: In Auld Reekie, Edinburgh

It seems we’re well off too in my local city Edinburgh too although the doors are only a few weeks reopened.

Auld Reekie comes in 16th and will glory in coming in well ahead of London, back in 39th of 40.

Beer bucket list

Blowing a trumpet for Denver

So, who is beerier than Prague? Well, maybe the question should be let’s set a beer bucket list.

And tick off all 40.

Amsterdam, Boston, Denver, Philadelphia, Rome (all again) and a number of others.

We’re only here for the beer.

Asia, Canada, Countries, Europe

Bonne Fête Nationale mais non Bastille

Oui, the French are celebrating their national day today… Bonne Fête Nationale mais non Bastille.d Fr See e ex

But why did nobody well us that the French aren’t celebrating the storming of the Bastille at all?

And that it is only a coincidence that the day falls on the samed date as the start of the Federation of France.

Bastille daze

Oui mais non… Bastille

So, a tip ici. Don’t wish your amis Happy Bastille Day.

All of which makes sense.

I mean who’d make a thing of freeing seven prisoners.

And two of them lunatics, and one an Irishman who thought he was Julius Caesar?

Well without further adieu Bonne Fete National around la monde.

La Mère ship

Grab an Eiffel

Paris, France: Naturellement. And as you would expect it’s all fly past entertainment, fireworks and flag waving.

And free entry to the Louvre… say bonjour to Lisa and the Parisiens.

The Montréal thing

Vive Montréal

Montréal, Canada: And emigrées are toujours more Francaisez

Canadiennes whoop it up in French Canada with all the Paris pyrotechnics but a Canadian twist with their r own home-grown Montréal Cirque Festival.

Something to Prague about

On the King Charles Bridge in Prague

Kampa, Prague, Czech Republic And you might not associate our Czech chums with July 14

We don’t know if it’s a throwback to Bohemia to Napoleon tor if it’s shared experiences of 1968.

But it’s jazz time in Prague with thousands in the square by the Vlatva River and on Charles Bridge. Ah oui, la joie de sax.

Tahiti treatment that

Ooh, really rela la: Tahiti

Tahiti, French Polynesia: And doesn’t July 14 and every fête remind us all how interconnected we all are?

Coconut cracking, fire walking (ouch!), stone weight lifting, food tasting and beauty pageants in Papeete’s To’ata Square anyone?

It’s all part of the Heiva i Tahiti Festival since independence day from June 29. Maeva Tahitians.

Indian Côte D’Azur

Vive L’India

Pondicherry, India And this little bit of the Tamil Nadu in the south-east of India will for ever be France.

Which is why it’s often called the Indian Côte D’Azur (not to be confused with the original French one) or the Riviera of the East.

So fly the flag for India and fly the flag for France. Et a La Tricolore.

And we’ll return to morel in vexilology treats at a later date…

Only today belongs to the French et Bonne Fête Nationale mais non Bastille mon amis.