Countries

Lighting a candle on my Dad’s 100th birthday

Now as you can see here’s a man who loved to blow his out…  so seeing he’s somewhere else now I’m lighting a candle on my Dad’s 100th birthday.

Where to start? Probably 100 years ago in a tenement in Denistoun in the east end of Glasgow.

Where James Gerard was born, the third of what would be five children, with one not lasting past four years, to joiner George and homemaker Mary.

The Two Jims: Sitting it out

Whether rich chocolate cake would have been the order of the day then is doubtful.

More jeely sandwiches (jam sandwiches) and tea and, on special occasions, biscuits, but food was always on the table for the Murtys.

And James, or Jim, as he was always known did the same for us.

While gleefully reminding us spoiled kids that he used to eat bread and dripping (the fat from the meat) as a kid.

The patisserie chef in Norfolk

Chip off the old block: In later life

Jim Murty, whose name I proudly carry on, was a self-made man.

Educating himself at night in his 20s after his day job with the corporation.

And then working jobs outside his medical course and then in the summers down in Norfolk.

Where he cheekily boasted to us that he had been a patisserie chef, and sending money home to his family.

Later in life my Dear Old Mum would take him back there to Sheringham where alas the hotel had gone.

Inevitable really as they had lost the best patisserie chef they ever had.

Spain, Portugal and the Irish homeland

Ireland calling: In Donegal

The trappings of a doctor’s life, and he also did out of hours work for the police, meant.

We would be among the tranche of early package holidaymakers to Spain and Portugal.

Although with my Dad’s memories strong of his childhood days when every penny had to be earned the hard way.

That was only after camping holidays.

Where my Dear Old Mum never tired of reminding him that she used to have to wash my nappies.

The best holidays of all were in Mum’s heartland of Brockagh, Co. Donegal.

Where the McNultys, who ran the hamlet, or townland’s hotel, held fort.

And where pictures of her 12-strong family cover the boards to this day in the Isaac Butt Heritage Centre.

Empty nesting

The Great Wall of China: With Mum

As the baby of the family it was my good fortune to get my parents to myself when my brothers were all growed up.

And although they never told me, they must have been pleased when I too took off allowing them to go out and see the world.

America, where Mum’s four brothers had emigrated, was a favourite.

And it was a love for the US and my Irish-American family that I have inherited.

Canada, where Dad’s own father had lived for 20 years and fought for in the First World War too.

And his brother Joe had taken his family out to live and my own brother who married out there and worked too before returning to Britain.

There was Mexico, South Africa too, Russia, India, China and Australia, and only some of them I have got to in the years since.

Glasgow belonged to him

What the Doctor ordered: Never off duty

But as much as he enjoyed all those adventures it was home where this proud Glaswegian was happiest.

With his beloved Teasy, who is now reunited with him.

And we, God willing, will one day.

Although not too soon.

DOUCEMENT DAD

 

America, Countries, Europe, Ireland, UK

A wee daughter of Donegal picking up the birthday bill

There’s a banquet today at the Lord’s table with a wee daughter of Donegal picking up the birthday bill.

And woe betide anyone, God included, who gets in her way.

Of course, for Donegal, read Dublin, Glasgow or Galway, Newtowmountkennedy or New York.

Or anywhere my Dear Old Mum, who will be surely celebrating her 96th birthday today in heaven, wined and dined us.

Handbags at Dawn

In any language: Over who pays

Anyone who has spent any time with the Irish of that golden generation will recognise the women who pay the bill.

Or seen the advert on Irish television where two women discuss who will fork up for the fare.

Ending, of course, in them battering each other over the head with handbags.

It has been my great fortune to have been able to break bread with the force of nature that was Teasy for nearly six decades.

And never once did she let me, or anyone else, pay.

Teasy’s table

Prize gal: At the National Piping Centre in Glasgow

Not on any of the big occasions, my 50th birthday, at the Hydro in Peebles in the Scottish Borders.

Nor any of the times when we were living in Co. Wicklow and would meet relatives in the Grand Hotel, Malahide, north of Dublin… 

Nor in her homestead of Donegal in the north-west of Ireland.

Cocktail hour: With Mum in Co. Wicklow

And we had one of our many mini-fall-outs when we attended my NYFD cousin’s wedding in New York.

And she forced money into my hand to pay for everyone and then apologised to said cousin when they paid our way.

Our shout

On a pedestal: Me and Mum at the Chooky Welly statue

While on the one occasion I was able to treat her, in her adopted city of Glasgow, she couldn’t help herself either.

And when the good people of the Glasgow Tourist board asked for the bill at the end of our meals, her purse would come out.

A lot of head scratching followed before the next lunch or meal and the same scenario played out again… and as for the cost of the hotel.

Teasy’s wide-eyed appetite for life could only be seen to be believed and she wondered in awe that anybody would pay my way to write about their wares.

Of course, Teasy, had the final word at our last supper before we returned her to the Donegal sod  last week.

A wee daughter of Donegal picking up the birthday bill still.

 

 

 

Countries, Ireland

She ain’t heavy she’s my mother

So on we go, her welfare is of my concern.
No burden is she to bear, we’ll get there… but then she ain’t heavy she’s my mother.

Ours is a well-trodden path, Mum and I, and we have been lifelong travelling companions.

But today we set out on our last journey, to Teasy’s homestead of Brockagh, Co. Donegal, in the north-west of Ireland.

Precious cargo: On board

Our drive to the airport, this time from North Berwick to Edinburgh, is quieter than usual.

Although I can hear in my mind’s ear her still trying to distract me by pointing out every landmark along the way.

The Adventures of Teasy and her baby

Bandanafan: With Sadie and Teasy

I smile too at the memory of her reaching into the glove compartment on another occasion, for a travel sweet.

And pulling out a joke plastic turd which the kids had left, and almost jumping out of her seat.

We have been travelling this road all my life, either as a family.

Or on those privileged Easter trips, when being the youngest and unencumbered by schoolwork, it was just the two of us.

Sorry for your Troubles

Family time: Ed, Sadie Laurie and dynamic duo

It was always an adventure.

And not without an element of danger.

Such as when we got lost in Belfast in the height of The Troubles.

And Teasy stopped to ask for directions, even inviting the randomer into the car to show us the way.

You can take the girl out of Donegal, and for 70 years my Dear Old Dad did, but you can’t take Donegal out of the girl.

Or when we found ourselves on the Scottish Isle of Arran rather than Ireland because of a communications breakdown at the ferry port.

In the driving seat

Lady McNulty: Of Brockagh

Today I am in charge as I was over the 13 years I spent in Greystones, Co. Wicklow, near Dublin.

And I would drive her up to (or down to as she would insist despite it being north) Donegal on her annual pilgrimage.

Although, of course, I never was truly in charge, and it was double trouble when her sister Ronnie came with us.

And Teasy started giving out exhorting Ronnie to get me to stop.

Because she thought I had taken a wrong turn and was ‘now in Bandit Country.’

The parting glass

Sláinte: Cocktail hour for Teasy

She is still, of course, causing mischief and it is no surprise to see my backpack siphoned off for checking at Edinburgh Airport.

Or that the security staff highlight that this is no ordinary passenger… ‘she’s very bright’ he opines.

‘That’ll be all the alcohol in her’, I reason.

It could, of course, have been worse, and I half expected to be asked to divide her into 100 little plastic bags and go through again.

The Pearly Gates

Hello Darlin’ Dad’s waiting

But we are on our way, after 70 years Teasy is going home for good.

It’ll be an adventure and already our gate for our EasyJet flight has changed twice in the last ten minutes.

You hope they haven’t got any old airport staff reemployed at the Pearly Gates.

Not my worry yet, I have to get a Daughter of Donegal home, safe and sound.

But be sure that I’ll eek every minute out of our last journey together.

Because the load doesn’t weigh me down at all. She ain’t heavy, she’s my mother.

 

 

America, Countries, Music

Daniel O’Donnell Live in New York

What’s got grey hair, 100 legs and no teeth? Daniel O’Donnell Live in New York. Or anywhere really!

Daniel O’Donnell’s popularity in his native Ireland can be summed up by a gas boiler advert.

Which Wee Daniel improbably is trying to sell an Oul Biddy.

She is thrilled to have her hero visit her house which is of course Daniel memorabilia.

And naturally pours him his favourite tipple, a cup of tea out of her Daniel O’Donnell teapot.

Step on it: Wee Daniel

Only for Wee Daniel’s No.1 fan to be left aghast when he suggests she should replace the gas boiler.

And she asks him to leave before drawing her Daniel O’Donnell curtains behind her.

You get then that fans of Danny Boy take him and his music and concerts very seriously.

And think nothing of travelling the four corners of the Earth to see him.

And this is where our old friends at Cassidy Travel come in.

Daniel takes New York

Cheeky… Wee Daniel

The Irish travel providers have a four-night package to see Donegal’s favourite son in the Big Apple from December 9 at the NYCB Theatre.

You’ll get those four nights in Manhattan with direct flights, four nights in Manhattan and concert tickets from €1199pps.

And if Wee Daniel isn’t our cup of tea (and we’d suggest to whisper that in Ireland, and particularly Donegal) then they have tickets for another international sensation. 

Bocelli’s Big Apple 

Et Grazie… to you too Andrea

Opera master Andrea Bocelli is playing Madison Square Garden this December and you can be part of it all with Cassidys.

They’ll give you a four-night package for the gig on December 13, staying in Manhattan.

And, yes, you’ll get direct flights and concert tickets and all from €1399pps… before it’s time to say goodbye (soz)

So that’s Daniel O’Donnell Live in New York. Or Andre Bocelli… so good Cassidy named it twice the offer.

 

 

Caribbean, Countries, Ireland

How we say goodbye

It says much about a culture how we say goodbye to our loved ones.

And as we bid farewell to our Dear Old Mum today, some thoughts on what we’ve picked up from our travels.

Now some cultures like to go big and bold and brash but we prefer simple and serene.

Teasy will announce herself on the family stone with her name and dates… and she’ll stand out.

Hers is a plot in Glenfin, Co. Donegal and you’ll know it’s Ireland by the Gaelic Football pitch backing onto the graveyard.

May you be in heaven

Water of life: With Mum at Doon Well, Donegal

The Irish, of course, have a healthy approach to death and their own funeral service website RIP.ie, from which Britons can learn.

With their wakes, party funeral receptions and a care for graveyards which we have forgotten on this side of the Irish Sea.

And their uplifting scripts and you may recognise this one.

‘May you be in heaven half an hour before the devil knows you’re dead.’

Sunrise and Sunset

Hearts and bones: Caribbean grave

Perhaps it’s an island thing although Britain seems to have missed that memo.

Because our Caribbean chums also have a healthy attitude to the passage from this world to the next.

Now I don’t know who Tobagonian Emily McDougall is but you’d have to think she has Scottish descent.

But her gravestone will draw visitors to stop and reflect because of the inscription.

A heart-shaped sign as you can see with a tribute which recognises nature and a sunny people.

By dating her to Sunrise and Sunset.

And because you all know that I’m an unrepentant cribber I have let it be known that I want that too when my time comes.

Wit and wisdom

Slab and tickle: Some gravestone laughs in Co. Wicklow

Of course there are those who use wit to soften the blow for those of us who are left… it’s how we say goodbye.

With Spike Milligan, of Goons fame, instructing family to insert this message to be put in his stone…

Dúirt mé leat go raibh mé breoite which translates as ‘I told you I was ill’.

Which Billy Connolly has finessed by joking on one of his many travelogues as ‘You’re standing on my head.’

Now we all have our ways and drift off on our travels and one of my Dear Old Dad‘s was graveyards.

And it’s something we share and I seek out wherever I go.

You know find out about a place by going to where the locals play and pray.

And of course whenever I want to be with my Mum from now on I know where she’ll be, back in her heavenly home of Brockagh, Co. Donegal.

 

 

 

Countries, Ireland

Farewell and travel well, Mum

Farewell and travel well, Mum.. and you’ll have got to your destination straightaway seeing I’m not navigating you.

I’ve had a lifetime of trips to her homestead of Co. Donegal.

Starting from when I was still waiting to come a-blinking out into the world.

When she would take the ferry from Glasgow to Derry, the nearest town to her hamlet of Brockagh.

Easter arising

The gang: Teasy, third from right, Ronnie, second from right

She would regale us in later life of how she wouldn’t sleep for weeks ahead at the prospect of getting back to see her family.

And then when she would take me over to Brockagh at Easters.

When my brothers would stay at home with my Dad to study.

And then when I had relocated for my 13 years in Ireland when I’d take her up on an annual trip from Greystones in Co. Wicklow.

A trip through the ages in Ireland

Life’s a beach: Travel buddies

There were many adventures along the way with me, my brothers, Dad and a swathe of Irish family.

And there was double trouble the year we took her wee sister Ronnie with us with me driving her automatic sports stars.

Of course, no quicker were we out of the driveway than my Mum started pressing random buttons on the dashboard.

Avoiding the temptation to look out at every house and field along the way the real drama started around the border.

When Teasy gave up the cry: ‘We’re in Bandit Country, Ronnie, tell him Ronnie.’

All along the border

Love ya: With Mum and Sadie

By the time we’d got past Monaghan and their country roads we were back on track and the gabby grannies were back in full voice.

And pointing out the various villages and who they knew who had lived there and passed through their lives.

There would be other journeys and stories, to our American family in New York and around Britain and to Europe.

While she enthralled everyone she met on her travels around the world with my Dear Old Dad after they had empty-nested.

Rest easy, Teasy

Home girl: Teasy and her parents

But we’ll take that final journey to the family plot in Brockagh, Co. Donegal.

And should I hear an echo of a familiar Irish voice in the car then I’ll just do what I did then and turn the radio up.

Farewell and travel well, Mum.

Teasy McNulty Murty (1928-2023), the last of the McNultys of Brockagh, Co. Donegal.

 

 

Countries

Switzerland is as safe as chalets

You know you’re secure when their knife of choice has tweezers and scissors, yes, Switzerland is as safe as chalets.

And even more so when the Swiss Army Knife you are given by their delegates at your Irish fair give you is a chocolate blade.

Of course, we’d never recommend, or expect to carry anything with us for protection abroad but it is, alas, a consideration these days.

Open spaces: In Switzerland

We’ve perhaps been blessed to have stayed safe on our travels, apart from a close shave involving a barber and false guide in Marrakech.

While we have the salutary tale of a relative who was drawn into a card school in Thailand and was cleared out.

India’s top-rated gambling guide Gamblino (no, us neither) have ranked the safest places in Europe based on a number of metrics.

And our yodelling, like clockwork, friends come out on top but where else is as safe as chalets, ice houses, canal boats or crofts?

Always an Alpine hand

Slayed it: On my sled in the Australian Tirol

And the Penthouse of Europe has the best views and the most chilled people.

Like Interlaken inspiration Brigitte and Ehrwald Presley who, while the rest of us stressed-out types shout at the world, they yodel their way through the day.

Unperturbed by the sort of things that might trouble us like crime, road troubles or natural disasters.

All of which puts the Swiss top of the list and Austria also riding high in the charts.

Ice to meet you

Bracing: Iceland

And in the Land of Fire and Ice too where you’ll find the friendliest guysers you’ll ever meet.

Apart maybe from the exorbitant costs.

But they say the best things in life are free.

And you lose all your inhibitions when you’re swimming in their fave icy pools with new friends.

Nordic Nirvana

Sweat it out: In your Nordic sauna

And it must be something in that Nordic air, and we’ve experienced that first hand in the Norwegian fjords.

Because Norway, Denmark, Finland and Sweden also make it into the top ten safest places in Europe.

And the stressbuster to beat all stressbusters.

I mean you know your safe when you can take off all your clothes and sweat it out together in a sauna together.

Hello from the Low Countries

žCan I be trusted on a bike? In Amsterdam

Where the crime rates are low and the approval ratings are always high.

In Luxembourg where despite its miniature size you’ll feel free as a bird surrounded by forests, gorges and the Moselle river valley.

Or the liberal Netherlands where they stay cool, cycling along canals, eating crepes or getting high in brown cafes.

A hundred thousand welcomes

With queen of Spain Teresa, Eoghan Corry and Sharon Jordan in Dublin

And it would surprise absolutely nobody to see Ireland up there as one of the safest countries in Europe.

Where you can still stop and talk to strangers in the streets of its capital Dublin and get the craic.

While out in the country, often called Real Ireland, and certainly my Dear Old Mum’s heartland of Co. Donegal there’s always a welcome in the hillside.

And quirkily where there is no rail service, getting about requires a lift from Maura.

And she’ll drop you off at Seamus’s who will take you as far as Breid who is going your way.

And so Switzerland is as safe as chalets and across Europe too.

 

 

Countries, Ireland

Adrian Dunbar in Greystones

Jesus, Mary and Joseph and his little donkey… is that Adrian Dunbar in Greystones, my old stomping ground?

Adrian has long been a national treasure in Ireland, and much loved too now in the UK on the back of his award-winning performance as Hastings in cop series Line of Duty.

All of which Tourism Ireland, Fáilte Ireland and Tourism Northern Ireland naturally know and have got behind him as he promotes the island in his latest venture.

Harbour delights: Greystones and Da Boss

Adrian Dunbar: My Ireland is the Fermanagh actor’s new series which goes to air on Channel 5 this evening, 23 November (8pm).

The two-part series will follow Adrian, who introduced the wider world to some choice Irish phrases such as the above, as he returns to his hometown of Enniskillen.

We’ll join the ever-likeable Adrian as he visits places that hold fond memories for him.

And he will also check out some places he has always wanted to visit but has never before found the time.

Garden of Ireland

Power of Ireland: Powerscourt

And I guess that is where the word went up of Adrian Dunbar in Greystones, Co. Wicklow, the Garden of Ireland.

Mind you there have been one or two celebs there over the years, Ronnie Drew out of the Dubliners, Damian Rice and ahem, yours truly.

Of course, we didn’t need any steer that Adrian was visiting the jewel of Wicklow.

As we recognised straight away the train, its destination and the platform.

From almost 14 years of standing on it… and that’s not far off as the DART (the Dublin Rapid Transport) is notorious for its poor efficiency.

But friendly staff, and I got to know the guards there well.

Dart and craft

On our way to the train: Greystones

So much so that they shared their idiosyncratic Irish wisdom with me on my first Christmas works do.

When I turned up at the DART station at 6pm one evening and booked a return ticket to Dublin, 15kms away.

The guard was insistent that I should get a taxi home or stay the night in Dublin as the last train back was 11.30pm.

Back to Adrian and he will kick off by visiting the towering cliffs of Slieve League, Glenveagh National Park in my mum’s own Donegal and Devenish Island in Lough Earne.

While the world will be his, well… he’s off to the Carlingford Oyster Company in County Louth and visit MacNean House & Restaurant in Co. Cavan in the midlands.

And meet celebrity chef Neven Maguire.

Train of thought

The world’s our… Carlingford

In episode two, which will air on 30 November, he will meet artist Jim FitzPatrick in Howth and another well-known chef, Richard Corrigan – who will give Adrian a tour of his Virginia Park Lodge.

Viewers will see Adrian visit prehistoric Newgrange, verdant Powerscourt Estate and the remote Hook Lighthouse.

They’ll also see him taking that trip on the DART in Wicklow… and remember Isambard Kingdom Brunel (and Michael Portillo) were all over the Bray-Greystones tunnel along the Irish Sea.

And he will cycle across the Kilmacthomas Viaduct on the Waterford Greenway.

 

 

Countries, Ireland, UK

A tale of two new cities Belfast and Derry

It’s a tale of two new cities Belfast and Derry 50 years on.

The two powerhouses of Northern Ireland are marking 50-year milestones just now, for different reasons.

Belfast’s name is up in lights, on billboards as award-winning luvvie Kenneth Branagh celebrates the city of his birth on film.

Belfast boy: Kenneth Branagh’s film

While Derry too is looking back too, but to the saddest episode in its modern history.

To Bloody Sunday when British soldiers shot dead 23 unarmed civilians.

Love letter to Belfast

Lie back… and think of Belfast

 

This weekend has been about Belfast and the 50th anniversary of a much-loved institution and survivor, Europa Hotel.

Where the cream of Irish Travel, my old muckers, Big Jim Gallagher and Muriel Bolger among them, were taking in Branagh’s love letter to Belfast.

From the Europa Hotel which was extending its 50th anniversary celebrations of last year by putting on a special showing of the film.

The Europa holds a special significance for Belfastians as the-then most-bombed city in the world.

But which the bombers never did level.

A tale of two hotels

On the town: At the Europa

Today it is a shining gem in the city, alongside the Grand Central Hotel, with its distinctive seahorse symbol.

And visitors can enjoy the charms of both as we did on our Belfast Chilled tour.

When we stayed at the Grand Central and took in Van Morrison at the Europa.

This week past met present as Guinness flowed and they drank in the nostalgia of the crossroads year of 1972 in Northern Ireland.

Van’s the man: Van Morrison at the Europa

Seventy-one miles north-west in Derry the locals set out on a Civil Rights march on a sunny Sunday.

At the end of it 13 lay dead and 15 wounded, the story of which you can follow at the Museums of Free Derry.

The history of those times may be a foreign country to those of us not from the Walled City.

Derry Girls

How abite ye? The Derry Girls mural

But it is being played out in a more uplifting fashion in the glorious Derry Girls, the tale of an English boy thrust into a girls’ school.

With a muriel (sorry mural) of the Fab Five main characters a beacon of what Derry is now post-Troubles.

Near the border too of my Dear Old Mum’s beloved Donegal in the Republic, Derry is a delightful destination for tourists.

And yes Hastings as everywhere in Northern Ireland is where to stay.

Derry good: The Everglades

Yes, it’s tale of two new cities Belfast and Derry

Where, you say to stay in Derry? The Everglades Hotel.

Ducks on parade: And Hastings to the fore

How do I know? Well, a little Hastings duckie told me.

 

Deals, Ireland

Craic Friday

And my friends in Visit Northern Ireland and Tourism Ireland can have this one… Craic Friday. For the usual consultancy fee, of course.

As promised more Black Friday offers (and like all the best Fridays they stretch into the weekend).

It’s always nice to share your favourite hotels with your friends.

Dublin’s delights

in with the fixtures: At the InterCon

And I’m glad to have passed on the charms of my favourite Dublin hotel, the iconic InterContinental in Ballsbridge, with my old pal and multi-award winning Travel writer Yvonne Gordon.

Yvonne has been editing an international guide book and dropped in on Nicky and his staff at the D4 institution, just next to my old stomping ground.

You’ll save 25% off their best flexible rate and enjoy:

A spacious deluxe guest room or a choice of luxurious suites with many with balconies.

And a special recommendation here from my own mermaid who rave about their 14m heated indoor pool and relaxation area.

And their 10% off ESPA products.

There’s limited time to book through Friday, December 3.

And the offers are for stays between Monday, November 29 this year and September 4 next year. And book three days before arrival.

Lusty helpings

Lusty Beggers… can be choosers

And you’ll have lusty helpings all right with the famous hospitality in Northern Ireland.

The deliciously named Lusty Beg Island Resort in Fermanagh is giving you 40% off a B&B courtyard stay for two for £105 per night.

Or book two nights B&B courtyard for two for £265 and receive. £70 voucher to use during your stay.

The offer is open from January 1 to March 31 and is open through tomorrow.

Donegal Mammy

Search and replace: That couple could be you

And, yes, no dip into Ireland can be complete without a namecheck for its northernmost county… my Donegal Mammy would never forgive me.

The scenic Harvey’s Point, set in the idyllic surroundings of Lough Eske and with the Bluestack Mountains as a backdrop, is just where you want to be at this time of year.

Or any time, to be fair.

Now if you book your gift voucher online before midnight on Monday you will get a 10% discount.

That’s towards the stay offers or can be used to enjoy an Afternoon Tea or a meal in the Lakeside Restaurant or Harvey’s Bar and Terrace.

So, even though it’s Saturday, I make no apologies for giving you Craic Friday.

That’s  Irish logic for you.