Beaches, like the skies and seas, are benefitting rom the lockdown and the Algarve has had the chance to breathe.
That’s because they are without the type of beachgoer who treat our beaches like a dumping ground… or worse.
The first beach holiday I had with the-then lovesick Miss F was in the Algarve https://www.visitalgarve.pt/en/Default.aspx where we met two brothers who are now our lifelong friends.
We played football on the courts, pool volleyball and even took to the stage to do our best theme from Raw Hide… complete with whip sounds.
In the interests of public disclosure that was me and Ray, not me and Miss F, although that doesn’t sound any better.
What a pane!
We thought about staying away from the Cabanas beach though as we had been warned that the approach was strewn with glass.
That didn’t stop us, though it took much of the enjoyment away from the experience, and I’m sure Ray lacerated his foot.
Now none of this is levelled at Cabanas , more those reckless visitors back in 1990.
Today’s Cabanas I imagine will be like a Caribbean beach because of a lack of litterbugs!
The beaches in the Algarve will reopen on Saturday.
There will be colour coded signage indicating the level of occupancy of the beach (low/medium/full).
And it will be updated in real time on the app ‘Info Praia’ (available in English) and APA website.
Just swimmingly
Visitors will be expected to keep 1.5m apart unless they are in the same household and parasols will be 3m apart.
And swimming, water sports and surfing will be permitted.
Of course, Portugal, and the Algarve, for many of us, holds many wonderful childhood and adult memories.
Back then, and it’s only a year ago, I would call on the services of the finest freelancers who never let me down.
Star women: The Irish at IPW
On the other side
Now I’m on the other side of the fence I have been glad to say that the holiday providers I cultivated then and many writers and editors remain the best of friends.
I only mention them over the other equally fabulous and welcoming destinations who hosted me because they were at the extremities of my Travel footprint.
Do I feel guilty, or should you? Well, yes. How could we not the way Greta goes on?
Of course there’s a multitude of evidence out there on the world wide web to back up Greta.
And like everything on the net you can find anything to support your view.
And their contention that air travel was better for the environment than car travel.
They estimate that the world’s drivers go through 1 billion gallons of fuel a day against 750 million gallons for air passengers.
Of course the fact that one form of transport is less harmful than another is not a strong enough argument.
Against that I would propose the positive effects of air travel… in expanding our minds, our frontiers and our appreciation of other peoples.
While fielding the accusations of the Flygskam brigade that the world is only in lockdown because of selfish air travellers who carried it across the globe…
In big monstrous metal birds.
Just imagine though a world in which our possibilities were restricted by a lack of air travel, or if you will, the past.
A world where we only learned about other peoples through the books and information we are given.
Now I’m not suggesting Boris Johnson or Donald Trump are feeding such a narrative but here is a cautionary tale of what could happen when we close ourselves off from others…
Legend has it that the people of Hartlepool in the north-east of England hanged a monkey who they mistook for a French spy during the Napoleonic Wars.
I have always believed that we are at our best as humans when we are being progressive rather than regressive.
While obviously being respectful of the world around us and those with whom we share it.
And being aware of our limitations with many a salutary tale out there from time immemorial of when to pull back.
Such as the tale of Icarus who flew too close to the sun only for the wax on his wings to melt.
This, and many more moral fables of how we should live with the natural environment around us, are all around you in Greece.., https://athensattica.com and My Greek odyssey.
But like Odysseus I have gone off on a tangent.
I will deal with the other forms of transport in the next parts of my ‘In Defence of’ series which will include cars,.
And no car hater me… how could I be? I should by rights be driving through the Florida Keys right now.
But to leave you on an up… the South Africans have discovered a balancing solution to carbon emissions under their feet.,, This plant can save the world.
And our shared history has shown too that our medicinal cures too can be found in the natural world.
So here’s to when we can all travel again.
And a shoutout to all our friends in the aviation industry who are our dreamcatchers… #DontPanicPostpone.#loveairtravel.
You’d easily miss the ‘No Squatting’ sign on Englishman’s Beach on the Caribbean island of Tobago. Robinson Crusoe did.
Convenient that, a seafarer remaining abandoned on this idyll for 28 years!
Daniel Defoe’s castaway has become the source of enduring fascination these past 300 years.
A modern-day Robinson Crusoe
Defoe, who drew on many shipwreck tales of the time tells us that his vessel sank within ‘sight of the great island of Trinidad’.
Which can only be its sister island of Tobago.
Oh, that… and also because of the goats. More of which later.
Which their government opportunistically renamed Isla Robinson Crusoe in 1966.
So would Crusoe recognise Tobago now?
The Englishman’s first challenge, of course, after making shore in 1719, would have been to find food.
With Attenborough’s pal William Trim
And through good fortune, or good judgment, he managed to avoid the poisonous yellow berries on the beach which our hosts warn us about.
Instead he shook the trees for coconuts and bananas and picked the mango groves.
And gladly lived off the other fruits of the land and the sea.
Which we, a party of five, who are guests of the Tobago Tourism Agency enjoy at a range of restaurants.
The Argyle Falls: And I won’t let my dye wash
Where the fish are close enough to jump out of the sea and onto your plate.
And where owners are friendly enough for you to call them ‘Auntie’ Alison and ‘Uncle’ Kenneth.
Tobago has been settled 32 times including randomly by Latvians.
Me…. I belong to Glasgow as the old music hall song goes but I’ve never been to a Glasgow bar like this.
Glasgow boys: Karl and I
It overlooks Parlatuvier Bay, every bit as beautiful as it sounds, and run by local Karl Glasgow.
Who, alas, has never been to Scotland, although his bar is bedecked with Scotland flags.
In an island just 12km wide and our three authentic billets allowed us either breathtaking views or close access.
For golfers Mount Bay Resort has its own course, while for those whose favourite hole is the 19th, it has the best rum punches on the island.
With Jeanelle and Porridge at Castara
Castara Retreats is a hidden-away gem.
And with its hammock on the balcony, and kitchen, buzzing village and bonfire party on the beach, it’s an indulgence worth rewarding you with.
And for convenience Kariwak Holistic Haven is ‘just around the corner’ from the airport, the Strip (with its bars, restaurants and a casino.)
And Sunday worship where you can repent those sins and ‘praise the Lord’ with the locals.
In search of more locals we head for the rain forest and the bird and animal sanctuaries.
Where the colourful hummingbirds, mockingbirds, black hawks and woodpeckers are in good voice.
Today’s intrepid explorer has rainforest expert William Trim who counts David Attenborough as an admirer.
Bird expert Ean Mackay and animal conservationists Ian Wright and Roy Corbin all there to reveal to us more of Tobago’s natural secrets.
I bet you Crusoe did the same.
And a cure for flu.
Which Crusoe would have experienced.
The barebacked turtles crawling out of the sea to lay their eggs on the beaches.
You’ll go limin’ (pre-drinking), jumpin’ and chippin’ (dancing on the stone chips).
No trip to Tobago would be complete either without a trip to Sunday School in Buccoo on the south of the island.
No, not that type of Sunday School, but a steel pan and Soca (Soul of Calypso) celebration.
Where the whole of the island comes out to drink and dance to the wee small hours (rum punch is the libation du jour).
Although Christmas feels more measured than back home possibly because it’s too warm out here for Christmas jumpers.
Here in Tobago amid the 30C temperatures don’t be surprised if you find Santa in a Christmas T-shirt on the beach.
But they are in fact racing goats who are in training for the Buccoo Festival at Easter..
And I bent over backwards at yoga too
And jockey Levi who shows me the ropes and how to handle my giddy goat Bandanaman… who comes with loose-fitting chord around his neck.
Before the starter cuts to the quick and shouts ‘Ready, Steady, Goat’, or at least I do.
I’m a natural, letting Bandanaman lead me 100 metres up the grass track by the football pitch.
Bonfire party
Today though it is his former mentor Terry Williams holding fort, tiring his young son Elijah out by having him run up a wind to help fly his kite.
It looks hard work in this heat and after my own exertions with the goats I welcome the prospect of a cool down.
On another day it’s the Nylon Pool in the middle of the Caribbean on a boat and snorkelling trip.
Princess Margaret would be proud
It is here that Princess Margaret honeymooned and was so taken by the waters that she described them as being as clear as her stockings (nylon).
Nylon Pool also has the added advantage of being a raised sand bank amid deeper water.
So you can have a bit of fun by standing around in the sea for some afternoon drinks.
And I started a party at Nylon Pool
No Man’s Land, a small sandy island, is where we drop anchor for our own bespoke Christmas party.
And where I suspend belief and indulge in rum punch instead of sherry, and mahi-mahi (like swordfish) instead of turkey.
Party boy Brendan brings a festive feel to proceedings in his Santa hat.
And he listens to my Christmas wish list although I’ve got everything I’ve ever wanted here anyway.
It’s my hammock
Between Lover’s Bay, Pirate’s Bay and Crown Point’s Store Bay Beach where the Trinis (Trinidadians) will pop over on a 20-minute flight for the afternoon.
All of which we try, for research purposes you understand, in case Crusoe had ventured this way.
It is on Pirate’s Bay Beach where we meet a German party who emerge almost Crusoe-like from the thickets.
What a picture: I captured the island on canvas
And a clearing having walked the width of the island from its biggest town Scarborough.
My last day I spend as Crusoe would have done, in reverence to the Divine Creator.
And the sun sets on our Tobago break
And while Crusoe’s most solemn wish would have been to be rescued..,
Mine’s is that my big bird never arrives to fly me off my fantasy island.
The lowdown
Tobago Airport: It’s tiny
British Airways (www.ba.com) flies from Gatwick from £475pp (€560) return; Virgin Atlantic flies from Gatwick from £496pp (€586) return. All major airlines fly into London from Ireland.
Drivers and guides can easily be arranged at hotels to get you around Tobago. Car rental starts at around £44 (€51) per day.
WHERE TO STAY
Mount Irvine Bay Resort (www.mtirvine.com), A week with BA Holidays in January 2020 from £965pp (€1135) for a week’s B&B and return flights from Gatwick. Based on two sharing.
Holistic Heaven: But still time to have a cocktail
Kariwak Holistic Haven (www.kariwak.com): A week with BA Holidays in January 2020 is priced from £1,195 (€1,405) per person for a week’s accommodation on B&B basis including free daily yoga, and return flights from Gatwick. Based on two people sharing.
WHAT TO DO
The boat that rocks
Waterholics: Take a boat ride out to Princess Margaret’s honeymoon swimming spot, Nylon Pool, a sand bank deep in the sea, where you can also stand up in the sea, She said the waters were as clear as her nylon stockings. Visit www.ilovetobagott.com for information and prices.
The boat ride Jim did was $120pp. Waterholics do exactly what they say on the tin… coastline tours, glass bottom boat tours, dolphin watching, fishing trips, booze cruise for small trips et al.
Adenture Farm and Nature Reserve Adventure: For the best bird-watching (and a villa to stay over in and wake up to the sound of hummingbirds and mockingbirds) https://adventure-ecovillas.com
