Here’s something written in the heart of Denmark. Who’s to say if he once was an ugly duckling but the world flock to Copenhagen now because of Hans Christian Andersen?
I meet an old university pal Tom off my cruise ship.
No, not by The Little Mermaid which is some way out from Copenhagen’s main square, but by Andersen’s statue.
Red and white dynamite
Once upon a time we…
No, you don’t want to read our story but Andersen’s and Copenhagen’s which are, of course, so richly entwined.
Hans was an only child, schooled in Elsinore, yes that Elsinore made famous by a certain prince.
Hans across the water
But it was to the sophisticated capital of Denmark that he made his life.
As first an actor and then a prolific writer of salutary children’s and adult books.
He took up residence in Nyhavn which is the big hub of Copenhagen today and a magnet for tourists.
You can’t help feeling his fairytale world all around you in Copenhagen’s chocolate box buildings.
We’d got off their revolutionary tender which moved up and down the side of the ship to take on the theme of the floor it attached to… the Eden lounge, the bar etc.
That’ll be Nassau then
And when we all got on the smaller boat for a spin out on the sea we saw the Bahamas in the distance which is where you’d be going on your shore excursion.
Now the Bahamas had come on to my radar years before of course when I dallied with a home-made career in Cocktail making and the Bahamas Breeze.
A tale of two Serenas
You don’t need me to tell you you’ll want dark rum, banana liqueur, apricot liqueur, coconut rum, grenadine syrup, honey, lemon juice and orange juice, pineapple juice and ice cubes.
And there are some tips on measures, although if you’re on a Royal Caribbean ship there’s no scrimping.
Bahamian queen: Serena Williams, left
The other Serena Willams
While back in the office in Dublin I felt that somebody was calling me to get me out to the Bahamas, although not any somebody you might expect.
Serena Williams called me one day to ask when I would be publishing an article I had sent a writer on.
And, yes, as her email makes capital out of it… No, not that one. She is, of course, a Bahamian smasher.
Love me tender
All this Bahamian fun is because my old friends at MSC have been in touch to tell us of their plans for 2021 which include
Their Escape to the Tropics offer where you’ll spend three nights in Miami .
Feast of Exen
And then four nights on board MSC Armonia en route to Nassau and the exclusive private island Ocean Cay MSC Mraine Reserve.
Prices for this cruise on May 3 start from €401pp for a four-night sailing based on two sharing a cabin, price includes a premium drinks package and service charge (gratuities).
Though there was a time on board the MSC Preziosa when it was particularly slippy because of the Norwegian rain.
Photo album
And she looked as if she might fall overboard. I very nearly caught her too!
So opening up the album here are my Frostie’s Favourites and some of her creativity has even rubbed off on me. See if you can spot which are hers and which are mine?
The fjords
Which one’s the troll?
And She was up every morning bright and early to capture Norway’s waterfalls, inlets and try to spot trolls.
There was one still sleeping off the previous night’s wine, in our MSC Preziosa cabin room.
Bitesize Hamburg
Walking on air in Copenhagen
And when She wasn’t putting her feet up in the beach bar in tbe Rieperbahn she was snapping life around the port.
Amsterdam by George
Can I be trusted on a bike? In Amsterdam
And sometimes we make a rod for our own back because after staying at the Dylan Amsterdam where George and Amal stay then everywhere else is a disappointment.
Heart and Soll
White delight: In Soll
I fell for you Heart and Soll as Cole Porter sang. And while I was falling down the slopes She was getting the ski boots off and capturing the SkiWelt Wilder Kaiser.
The power of Powerscourt
Towering talent… one of mine
And the two things that She loves more than anything in life and neither of them are me are in Wicklow that’s gardening and shopping.
Powerscourt has them both... and don’t my credit cards know it?
One of Hers
And one of Jose’s
And lastly here we are the picture of happiness as taken by our Portuguese guide, photography fan and pal Jose.
Their flagship MSC Grandiosa is to welcome back guests in the Western Med, a route I know well, from August 16.
And MSC Magnifica in the Eastern Med from August 29.
They are offering seven-night cruises with the opportunity to visit five different destinations.
MSC are going beyond the guidelines with enhanced measures including universal testing for all guests and crew.
As well as safe ashore visits at each port.
And still flying
In the frame: Rembrandt’s Night Watch
Now I’ve been trying to keep away from the cash machine.
But with my favourite kebab shop needing cash here in North Berwick I pulled a couple of twenties out and was left with change.
What to do? Well, Ryanair have 250,000 seats only €14.99 one-way, with the sale ending tomorrow at 12midnight.
I’m loving Amsterdam and Hamburg, both on the UK exempt list and I notice too that one of my fave cities, Edinburgh, is there too.
Which is OK for you, but I live here.
Ode to safe camping
There is a corner of some Selkirk land
Oh to be wandering lonely as a cloud around William Wordsworth’s favourite Scottish Borders inn.
But normally sensible day trippers have been doing a Jekyll and Hyde (Robert Louis Stevenson was a regular too) by turfing up in Selkirk around the Tibbie Shiels Inn.
Armed with crates of beer at sites at St Mary’s Loch, the Loch o’ the Lowes and Cafe Green, a former picnic site.
The inn was most recently used as a seasonal hotel but was closed in 2015.
Tibbie was a small woman with a great sense if humour… she wouldn’t have seen the funny side of this.
The Native Americans rising again
My Native American name is Farts of Thunder
I showed early signs of being a rebel as this picture of me with my childhood friend, Peter.
The son of the former Scotland and Manchester United manager Tommy Docherty.
We were channeling our inner Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse.
I spent this weekend in the company of the friends I made from IPW, the American Travel Fair in a webinar for AIANTA (American Indian Alaska Native Tourism Agency).
They also look out for the interests of Native Hawaiian tourism too but I guess they’re worried about running out of letters on the acronym
Sitting Pretty
Anyways AIANTA are pretty much sensibly keeping to their reservations for just now while they wait for COVID to abate.
But that doesn’t mean they’re not in business.
And we’ve been encouraged to stay engaged with the tribes through all of this by spending money on their art and their jewellery.
Now I know from visiting the National Museum of the American Indian in Washington DC how stunning the tribes’ artefacts are.
And I know the Scary One is looking for a scene to go next to our Venice painting on the wall of her new home.
And a pair of dreamcatchers for the lobes of her ears.
Now what they gain on practicality and speed they lose on aesthetics and the Channel Tunnel has certainly taken a lot of the romance out of travelling from the UK to Europe.
But thankfully I’m not alone in being a ferry fan and ferry travel has survived and thrived the sneers of those who said the Channel Tunnel would kill off routes to France and further afield.
Dublin’s ferry city
And much of that has been down to the ease, comfort and family entertainment on board Brittany Ferries’ ships https://www.brittany-ferries.co.uk which I know first hand from being shown around their ships in dock in Dublin.
But big softie that I am though I sent another family from the office to Brittany.
To sample their cider, culinary delights, culture and beaches… and everyone who goes raves about St Malo.
Minolta DSC
Brittany have confirmed that five ships will carry passengers when services resume from next Monday, June 29 with a further three ships reopening to passengers in July.
The routes
Mont St Michel, Portsmouth-Caen: 8.30am, June 29, departing Caen. Cap Finistere, Portsmouth-Santander: 0:30, June 29, departing Portsmouth. Armorique, Plymouth-Roscoff: 15:00, June 29, departing Roscoff.
Pont-Aven, Cork-Roscoff, Plymouth-Santander: 20.45, July 2, departing Plymouth; 20.30, July 3; 16:00, July 4, departing Cork; 9.45am, July 5, departing Roscoff; 16.45, July 5, departing Plymouth.
Kerry, Rosslare-Roscoff: 20:30, June 29, departing Rosslare. Roscoff-Rosslare: 19:00, June 30, departing Roscoff. Rosslare-Bilbao: 11am, July 1, departing Rosslare. Bilbao-Rosslare: 18.45pm, July 2, departing Bilbao.
And there will be three more ships back later in July…
Normandie, Portsmouth-Caen: 23:00, July 12, departing Caen. Bretagne, Portsmouth-St Malo: 10.30, July 17, departing St Malo. Connemara, Portsmouth-Cherbourg (Thursday-Sunday): 9am, July 10, departing Portsmouth (or Cherbourg). Portsmouth-Le Havre (Monday-Wednesday): 23.45, July 12, departing Portsmouth.
But they have had to pull the Etretat Portsmouth-Le Havre, Barfleur Poole-Cherbourg and the Normandie Express Portsmouth-Cherbourg routes for this summer.
You should check out their site for guidelines on new ferry travel above.
And to think that just a couple of months ago an underground abandoned street from the Black Death was open…
And drawing in ghoulish visitors in Edinburgh.
It might just give us solace though to reflect that our forebears had it worse.
A city under a city… The Real Mary King’s Close
It wasn’t just that the residents of Mary King’s Close https://www.realmarykingsclose.com were boarded up, they didn’t even have Netflix.
You can see how they lived on a trip to the Scottish capital https://edinburgh.org where the Old Town seeps horrible history.
How they lived in the Middle Ages
The EyamPlague Village Museum https://www.eyam-museum.org.uk, in Derbyshire in the English Midlands, is another example of how Medieval people lived with The Plague.
In their case sealing their village off in a remarkable feat of self-sacrifice from their neighbours.
Our pandemic will pass, and will become a chapter in history alongside the Plague of Athens and the Plague of Justinian.
So how will we chronicle these days in which we live?
Well, we have started already, curating the artefacts, masks, robes, PPE and everyday objects that we surround ourselves with just now.
And the everyday stories that inform and entertain.
It will come as little surprise then that it is the idiosyncratic, curious and super-efficient Germans who have been to the fore here.
Oh, the Cologne
Historian Rita Wagner has been curating a time capsule of the spring of 2020 for future generations for Cologne City Museum
Germans know from their own tragic war history that it is vital not to forget.
Cologne https://www.cologne-tourism.com, a city I know from my nearby Oktoberfest adventures, stands proudly with its cathedral at its centrepoint against the ravages of adversity.
There’s a moose loose aboot this hoose – Lord Rockingham’s XI
Now what has ‘Hoots Mon’, a UK No.1 from 1958 to do with the price of Irn-Bru?
Only that the moose is considered a measure of distance in northern Sweden.
Which we’re all looking at enviously because there’s no lockdown there.
In the region of Norbotten locals are warned to stay ‘one moose length’ away from each other.
Check out the lights. Photo by Jonathan Petersson on Pexels.com
While in the rest of the country they’re still eating meatballs, smorgasbords and pickled herrings and highly-priced beer in bars and restaurants.
All the time following Prime Minister Stefan Lofven’s guidance to keep social distance.
The Swedish hinterland
So what is it that Sweden is doing right?
Well, in a nutshell, they believe it is not sustainable to keep its people in open-ended lockdown.
A night out in Sweden
And that they are prepared to accept certain restrictions on movement and interaction over a prolonged period.
Rather than to take the pain today for jam tomorrow.
She and her fellow Swedish politicians recommended this on internal travel at Easter.
The government exhorted Swedes not to travel to their summer cottages or relatives but did not ban them from doing so.
Which was 90 per cent lower than in previous years.
The Abba Museum
All of which progress and good husbandry focuses our attentions rightly on Sweden…
And talking about husbandry I’m reminded of what a good husband I would have been to Agnetha Faltstog, my first love.
Alas her husband Bjorn Ulvaeus was on the scene… and I was only 11.
ABBA’s Greatest Hits was the first album I ever bought.
And it was my love of Abba that got me innocently into trouble in my Jesuit Catholic all-boys school when I brought copies in of The Sun newspaper.
The ABBA Story
All because they were serialising The ABBA Story… I even used my lunch money to pay for the newspapers.
Easy ahopping
However my teacher suspected that I was ogling the bare-breasted Page 3 girls instead. All of which landed me with a belting.
I will continue to make it one of my life’s missions to track down Agnetha in her retreat.
And the best starting point is to actually get out to Sweden.
SAS Scandinavian Airlines http://www.flysas.com is your best bet, and they fly out of Dublin, and in the UK from London, Manchester, Birmingham and Newcastle.